commit c8bc1513f9e459dc0c6761fc42f1ea77fce2654d
parent f32ec21c3a2aaef8435abab314176b03c07755b9
Author: Sebastiano Tronto <sebastiano@tronto.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2026 22:01:47 +0100
av2 singlepage + stuff
- Added single-page version of the Alta Via 2 pages, optimized for
printing in A4 format.
- Added .noheadermd extension to build.sh (treated like .md, but
without header and footer).
- Added versioning for css file.
- Resized some Alta Via 2 pictures for fitting in pdf page.
Diffstat:
11 files changed, 1546 insertions(+), 5 deletions(-)
diff --git a/build.sh b/build.sh
@@ -15,7 +15,7 @@ recursivebuild() {
done
}
-# This function is currently unused, but we keep it in case we need to
+# This function is currently useless, but we keep it in case we need to
# preprocess some m4 files.
mdpreprocess() {
file="$1"
@@ -46,6 +46,13 @@ copyfile() {
>> "$ind"
cat bottom.html >> "$ind"
;;
+ noheadermd)
+ t="$(markdowntitle "$file")"
+ sed "s/TITLE/$t/" < top-nobar.html > "$ind"
+ mdpreprocess "$file" | \
+ lowdown --html-no-skiphtml --html-no-escapehtml \
+ >> "$ind"
+ ;;
html)
t="$(htmltitle "$file")"
cat top.html "$file" bottom.html | sed "s/TITLE/$t/" > "$ind"
diff --git a/src/av2/img/24-0000-map.png b/src/av2/img/24-0000-map.png
Binary files differ.
diff --git a/src/av2/img/25-0000-map.png b/src/av2/img/25-0000-map.png
Binary files differ.
diff --git a/src/av2/img/25-0851-down-from-farangole.jpg b/src/av2/img/25-0851-down-from-farangole.jpg
Binary files differ.
diff --git a/src/av2/img/25-1109-dad-farangole.jpg b/src/av2/img/25-1109-dad-farangole.jpg
Binary files differ.
diff --git a/src/av2/img/25-1606-rope.jpg b/src/av2/img/25-1606-rope.jpg
Binary files differ.
diff --git a/src/av2/img/27-0833-sign.jpg b/src/av2/img/27-0833-sign.jpg
Binary files differ.
diff --git a/src/av2/singlepage/av2.noheadermd b/src/av2/singlepage/av2.noheadermd
@@ -0,0 +1,1515 @@
+# Alta Via 2
+
+
+
+[Alta Via 2](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alta_Via_2) is high mountain
+route in the [Dolomites](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolomites). It goes
+from [Brixen](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brixen), in South Tyrol, to
+[Feltre](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feltre), the city where I was born.
+With its 180km of lenght and around 10000 meters of altitude gain, it
+requires multiple days to complete, with most guides suggesting a 12-
+or 13-day itinerary.
+
+In August 2025, my father and I completed this route, walking for
+9 consecutive days. In these pages I am going to tell you about
+this adventure, and share some of the pictures that we took.
+If you are interested in hiking similar routes, you may find
+some useful information here, but I am not aiming at writing a
+technical description of the hike.
+
+* [Preparation](../preparation)
+* [Day 1 - The Odles in the rain](../day1)
+* [Day 2 - Trail 666](../day2)
+* [Day 3 - A knee-breaking descent](../day3)
+* [Day 4 - The forest and the pastures](../day4)
+* [Day 5 - Entering the Pala group](../day5)
+* [Day 6 - The Farangole trail](../day6)
+* [Day 7 - The longest day](../day7)
+* [Day 8 - The Troi dei Caserin](../day8)
+* [Day 9 - Cutting it short](../day9)
+* [After the hike](../after)
+
+You can view these pages at
+[https://sebastiano.tronto.net/av2](https://sebastiano.tronto.net/av2).
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+# Day 1 - The Odles in the rain
+
+<p align="center"><em>August 20, 2025</em></p>
+
+<img src="../img/20-0000-map.png">
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## The road to Kreutztal
+
+Our first day starts quite early, as we wake up at 5:15. My uncle is
+giving us a car ride to Kreutztal, which will take a little more than
+3 hours. We leave at 5:55.
+
+We drive up the Cordevole valley, a road that reminds me of the
+many hikes I used to do in the Dolomites, usually starting from the
+[Falzarego pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falzarego_Pass),
+hiking around the [Tofane](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tofane),
+the [Cinque Torri](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinque_Torri),
+[Averau](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Averau) and others.
+But we are not going there this time.
+
+The road itself is quite scenic. Sorry, I did not
+take any pictures pictures. Going North, we drive
+through popular touristic destinations like Arabba and
+[Corvara](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corvara%2C_South_Tyrol).
+But these small towns leave a weird impression on me, as they are made
+up mostly of hotels and a few restaurants and bars - all closed because
+it is too early for turists to wake up. Are these places just holiday
+resorts now?
+
+Just before we reach Kreutztal, our starting point, it starts raining.
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## The hike begins
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>My dad and I, ready to start hiking.</em></p>
+
+By the time we reach Kreutztal (2000 meters on sea level), park the car
+and put on our rain clothes, it is already 9:30. And this is going to
+be one of the longest days, at least according to our estimates.
+
+The [Plosehütte](https://www.plosehuette.com/en/) (2447m) is not
+far, and we reach it pretty quickly. Unfortunately, it is closed for
+renovations, and we can't even get close enough to take a picture of
+our first checkpoint.
+
+At least the view from up there is... something.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>The <a
+href="https://www.val-gardena.com/en/dolomites/geisler-mountain-group">Odles</a>
+surrounded by clouds.</em></p>
+
+The clouds came and went, but this is pretty much the clearest the
+skies have been the whole morning. Besides the cold and the rain being
+unpleasant, the low visibility gave us some technical difficulties:
+right after passing by the hut, we found ourselves on a grassy slope and
+we lost the track. In normal conditions we would have been able to look
+out for the next trail marking, but with this thick fog we were forced
+to double check our GPS and our maps.
+
+## Down through the forest, then up again
+
+Luckily, it did not take us long to find the right way, and we kept
+descending in a [larch](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Larch) forest.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>A trail in a forest between Plosehütte and
+Schlüterhütte - Rifugio Genova.</em></p>
+
+The descent is pleasant. We even manage to catch some break from the
+heavy rain, and take a few more pictures of the Odles.
+
+
+
+We reach the Rodella Pass (1867m) at around 13:00,
+and from there we walk up to [Schlüterhutte - Rifugio
+Genova](https://www.schlueterhuette.com/en/) (2297m). I did not take
+many notes of this part of the journey, there was too much rain for me
+to take out my journal and write.
+
+As the trail is crossed by a stream of water, we have to pass a short
+challenging section, where we are forced to climb on the wet rock.
+The climb itself is not hard, but the trail is not clearly marked at
+that point, which left us wondering if we were doing the right thing.
+
+We are then blocked by a more difficult trail feature: cows.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Cows are blocking the road. Yes, that little gap is
+the only way forward.</em></p>
+
+After overcoming this zoological obstacle, we reached the
+Schlüterhütte - Rifugio Genova at 16:00 and we stop for a slice of
+[*Apfelstrudel*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_strudel).
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Rifugio Genova - Schlüterhütte in the fog.</em></p>
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## The long descent to the village
+
+At 6 hours and 30 minutes of hiking, this would have been a good first
+day. But unfortunately we cannot stop here. At 16:30 we begin the long
+descent towards Lungiarü (1398m).
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Down there, that's where we have to go. Do you see
+it? Me neither.</em></p>
+
+We walk for two hours in the rain and the fog before reaching the
+village. Two hours may not sound like much, but it felt like an eternity.
+
+Just before the village, we pass by a place called
+[*Val di Morins*](https://www.alta-badia.org/en/highlights/sights/val-di-morins-mill-valley/),
+which means "Mill Valley" in Ladin.
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+A watermill. In this area it was common to build half-pipes
+with larch trunks to lead the water to the mill.
+</em></p>
+
+The village of Lungiarü, in [Val
+Badia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Val_Badia), is quite nice, but we
+have no energy left for sightseeing. All we can do before falling asleep
+is a shower, dinner, and trying to dry our clothes for the next day.
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+# Day 2 - Trail 666
+
+<p align="center"><em>August 21, 2025</em></p>
+
+<img src="../img/21-0000-map.png">
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## The beginning of a long day
+
+According to our plan, this second day is going to be the toughest.
+Our planned route consists of more than 1700m of altitude gain, which
+would already be quite a long hike for a single day, leave alone for one
+out of 9 consecutive days of walking. Moreover, the weather forecasts
+for the day are not good - there is a chance of thunderstorms in the
+afternoon.
+
+Luckily we find someone willing to give us a car ride from our B&B to
+the edge of the village, saving us about one hour of walk. We start
+walking at around 8:30.
+
+The first part of the trail is not very steep, and the weather is
+not too bad either. We even manage to see some mountains!
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>The Puez-Odle group.</em></p>
+
+In about an hour we reach *malga Antersasc* (2084m on sea
+level). Around this small abandoned building we see a few
+[chamois](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamois) and some very fat
+[marmots](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmot) - seriously, those
+things were huge! Unfortunately all the pictures I took were terrible,
+you need some pretty good camera to catch them from a distance.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+Sorry for the lack of marmot pictures. Here
+is a shot of myself staring at a tree growing on top of a rock instead.
+</em></p>
+
+After a short break, we get back on the trail and start walking towards
+the [Puez hut](https://www.rifugiopuez.it/en/). We could already tell
+from the map that the trail up to *forcella Puez* (2500m), before the
+hut, was going to be very steep. However, we found it to be very well
+maintained, which made it easier than we expected.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+The trail up to forcella Puez is reinforced with some trunks that
+turn it almost into a staircase.</em></p>
+
+Unfortunately, as we walked up, the weather got much worse.
+We were forced to wear all our rain clothes again, including gloves.
+
+We reach the Puez hut (2447m) at 11:20, earlier than planned. We take
+some time to rest and try to dry up from the rain; I change my socks
+and t-shirt, which definitely helps.
+
+## The forgotten Forcellas
+
+(*Forcella* is an Italian term that denotes a tight mountain pass, usually
+only reachable via a steep trail. I will sometimes use the Italian word
+because I don't know an exact equivalent in English. For proper nouns I
+may also use the equivalent word in the local language: *Furcella* or
+*Jeuf* in [Ladin](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ladin_language),
+*Joch* in German, *Foržela* in
+[Venetian](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venetian_language).)
+
+We start walking again around 12:00, and it is immediately clear that we
+have made a small miscalculation in planning the route. We thought
+that the trail to [Gardena Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gardena_Pass)
+would be straight downhill, but actually we'll have to climb up and then
+down a couple of tight passes: *Furcella de Ciampei* (2366m) and *Jeuf de
+Crespëina* (2528m). This is easily going to cancel out the time we gained
+in the morning. Fortunately, this part of the trail is quite pleasant to
+walk, if at times steep; the weather is also not too bad, as we only have
+to bear some light rain.
+
+
+
+As we are about to reach Gardena Pass (2136m), a strong storm begins.
+I speed up to take shelter in a hut down at the pass, leaving my dad
+a few minutes behind. I reach the pass at 14:35.
+
+## One hell of a trail
+
+The outlook for the last part of the day is bleak, to say the least.
+Thunderstorms are forecast until late in the evening. There is likely
+going to be a small windows of good weatehr between 16:00 and 17:00, but
+it is not going to last long enough to reach the Pisciadù hut, where we
+are going to sleep. We have to choose between leaving immediately under
+the heavy rain hoping it stops while we are on the way, or waiting for
+the first wave of the storm to pass but risking it starting again
+before we reach our destination.
+
+We choose the former, because it was our best chance to arrive at the
+hut before it gets dark. Moreover, despite the forecast of thunder and
+lightning, so far it is just raining heavily, which although unpleasant
+is not dangerous.
+
+We leave the pass at around 15:00, under the storm. The ascent is not
+steep at first. Luckily, as predicted, after about one hour the rain
+stops.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Our last view of Gardena Pass and the Odle group,
+on the way up to the Pisciadù hut.</em></p>
+
+But then we reach the infamous trail 666.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+The beginning of trail 666. This is not a nickname, it is
+the actual number that the <a href="https://www.cai.it">
+Italian Alpine Club</a> gave to this trail.
+</em></p>
+
+Actually, this is the easiest of two
+possible ways to the Pisciadù, the other being the [Ferrata
+Tridentina](https://www.alta-badia.org/en/leisure-activities/climbing-and-mountaineering/brigata-tridentina-route/).
+The booklet I am following describes it as "[...] reserved for
+well-equipped experts. Don't do it with heavy backpacks; don't do it if
+the weather is not good." We get at 0 out 3, the thought of taking the
+[via ferrata](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata) does not not
+even cross our minds.
+
+So trail 666 it is. This trail is also known as *Setus trail*, or somewhat
+improperly *Setus via ferrata*. It is extremely steep and it is more a
+climb than a walk, but it is not a via ferrata. Most maps describe it
+as *sentiero attrezzato* (equipped trail), as it does have some fixed
+steel rope and handles where climbers can hang a safety rope.
+
+We have some simple ropes equipped with a
+[Carabiner](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carabiner), and we decide to
+use them. In the following days we would talk with other people who
+took the same route, and some of them would claim that a rope is not
+necessary on this trail. I don't care, I was relieved to have my trusty
+rope, especially considering the bad weather and how tired I was after
+more than 8 hours of hiking (plus the 9 hours of the previous day). And
+a safety rope is certainly of no use if kept in the backpack.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Trail 666 is really steep.</em></p>
+
+Overall, the steel rope and the handles are of great help, and although
+a couple of times I was unsure where to put my feet and I almost slept,
+I would not consider this trail dangerous, if one is properly equipped.
+
+The reason I found this trail hard was its *length*. I seriously had some
+difficulties caused by how tired I was and how sore my muscles were,
+after two full days of hike. Sometimes I could not complete a step or
+an arm movement on the first try because I just did not have the enough
+strength to push or pull up. And the trail just kept going!
+
+But at 17:30, exhausted but satisfied, we finally reach the top of this
+climb. The Pisciadù hut (2587m) is just around the corner.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>My dad at the end of trail 666.</em></p>
+
+We, our clothes and our boots are still wet from all the rain we caught
+earlier in the day. Let's hope everything dries up during the night.
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+# Day 3 - A knee-breaking descent
+
+<p align="center"><em>August 22, 2025</em></p>
+
+<img src="../img/22-0000-map.png">
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## The lunar path to Rifugio Boè
+
+Our clothes are still wet by the time we wake up. The summer nights
+in the Alps are just too humid. But at least we can finally see some
+sun. The weather is going to be much better for the next few days.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>A beatiful view from the Pisciadù hut at dawn.</em></p>
+
+The beds in the hut were comfortable and we slept well. After a comical
+incident with my dad's boots - he put on someone else's pair, not knowing
+that I had brought his into our room, and spent a good 15 minutes
+searching for them - we are ready to leave the hut at 8:20.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>The Pisciadù lake and Piz Pisciadù (peak Pisciadù).</em></p>
+
+The day starts with a short but somewhat steep section of the trail.
+There are some steel ropes and we use our simple harness once again,
+although this time we felt we could have done without.
+
+At 9:45 we reach what is likely the highest point of our route,
+an anonymous plateau at 2960 meters on sea level. There are higher
+points on some variations of the route, for example *Punta Penia* in the
+[Marmolada](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmolada) massif, but in that
+section we are going to take a lower trail, which is the more classical
+one according to my guide book.
+
+At this point, we are completely immersed in a sea of fog. It is quite
+cold, probably only a couple of degrees above 0°C, and there is some
+unpleasantly cold breeze.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>My dad resting on a rock, trying to keep warm.</em></p>
+
+The fog comes and goes, letting us see the beautiful panorama for a few
+brief moments.
+
+
+
+As we walk down from the plateau, my left knee starts hurting. It is
+not unbearable, and it only hurts when I walk downhill. But it does
+not bode well for the rest of the day: our next stop is 900m below us,
+so we are going to walk downhill for most of the day.
+
+At 10:30 we are on top of the *Antersass* (2906m), a minor peak next to
+the more prominent [Piz Boè](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piz_Bo%C3%A8)
+(3152m). We could have walked around the Antersass, but the trail to
+climb up to the top and then down is actually easier. Going to the top
+of Piz Boè would have been an interesting detour, but not quite feasible
+for our 9-day plan.
+
+We reach [Rifugio Boè](https://www.rifugioboe.it), a recently renovated
+hut at 2873m, before 11:00.
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em> A view of Piz Boè (peak Boè) from Rifugio Boè (Boè
+hut). The hut on the top of Piz Boè is, perhaps confusingly, called <a
+href="https://www.rifugiocapannapizfassa.com/en">Capanna Piz Fassa</a>.
+</em></p>
+
+We have now left Sout Tyrol. The rest of the Alta Via 2 route roughly
+follows the border between the provinces of Trento and Belluno.
+
+We leave the hut at 11:20. The fog has returned, but it is not as cold
+as before.
+
+The trail to *Foržela Pordoi* (2848m) is mostly flat, and very crowded,
+because of a cable car that makes it accessible even to families with
+kids. I am not sure I like this kind of over-turism in places that
+would otherwise be hard to reach.
+
+## A painful descent
+
+As we reach the foržela, the view opens up on a more diverse landscape
+of grass, rock and forests. After a very short break, we start walking
+down to the Pordoi Pass.
+
+The descent is on a long and steep
+[scree](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scree). I have never liked walking
+down this kind of trail, but now that my knee is screaming for mercy I am
+really hating it. I would have rather walked it up twice than down once.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass.</em></p>
+
+We reach the [Pordoi Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pordoi_Pass)
+at 13:30. I need a long break before continuing, so we decide to lay
+down next to a tiny church just after the pass. Luckily the weather
+is nice - or not terrible, at least - and we can enjoy a nice view of
+the surroundings.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sella_group">Sella group</a>
+from the Pordoi Pass.</em></p>
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>The view in the direction of <a
+href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canazei">Cianacei</a>.</em></p>
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## Her majesty, the Marmolada
+
+At 14:10, after about 40 minutes of relax, we are ready to get up.
+
+We walk up an easy trail among ski paths. Here too there are plenty of
+turists, and I can't blame them for choosing to walk in such a beautiful
+place. This is a very common touristic destination both in the Summer
+and in the Winter.
+
+We walk past a strange place called [Rifugio
+Fredarola](https://www.fredarola.it/) (2370m), which looks more like
+a night club you could find the center of Milan rather than a mountain
+hut. They are even playing some electronic lounge music. It's hard to
+describe, but it feels oddly out of place here. But maybe for people
+coming from a big city this is just what they expect to find here;
+I guess it is a matter of points of view.
+
+We continue on a wide, mostly flat trail. For now my knee is is doing
+fine, but I am a bit scared for the descent that awaits us later today.
+And finally we have a good view on the Marmolada, the Queen of the
+Dolomites.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmolada">Marmolada</a>,
+the highest mountain in the
+Dolomites, and its glacier. At the feet of the massif you can
+see the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fedaia_Lake">Fedaia
+lake</a>, around which there are a couple of huts, including the one
+where we are staying tonight. In the distance you can see the <a
+href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Pelmo">Pelmo</a> and the <a
+href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Civetta">Civetta</a>.
+</em></p>
+
+We stop at [Rifugio Viel Dal Pan](https://www.rifugiovieldalpan.com/)
+(2432m) for a short break at 15:30. From there, the steep descent towards
+the Fedaia Pass (2054m) begins. My knee forces me to walk slowly, so by
+the time we reach the pass it is already 17:30.
+
+The day is almost concluded, but we have to walk to the opposite side of
+the lake to [Rifugio Fedaia](https://www.rifugiofedaia.com/). The closer
+[Rifugio Castiglioni](https://www.rifugiomarmolada.it/), where we stop
+for a beer, was fully booked when we planned our trip.
+
+
+
+We walk fast on the old road next to the lake, chatting with a local
+resident who helps us keep up the pace. We arrive at our hotel at 18:05,
+after almost 10 hours of hike (including breaks), and we are very happy
+to find a comfortable room with private bathroom waiting for us.
+
+This day was longer than we planned, partly because of my knee. But the
+scenery was beautiful.
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+# Day 4 - The forest and the pastures
+
+<p align="center"><em>August 23, 2025</em></p>
+
+<img src="../img/23-0000-map.png">
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## To Malga Ciapèla and Forca Rossa
+
+Our fourth day starts at 8:20, with a steep descent on a ski path.
+My knee stil hurts, and this points I am afraid I may have to
+deal with it for the rest of the trip.
+
+At 9:30 we pass Malga Ciapela (1450 meters on sea level) and we start
+walking up again. Soon we find an enigmatic sign which is apparently
+trying to communicate that going left or right leads to the same places.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>The confusing sign.</em></p>
+
+We spend like 5 minutes figuring this out, and we choose to go left.
+
+The path is not steep and walking in the forest is enojyable. Since we
+are at a lower altitude than we have been for most of the other days,
+it is also much warmer than what we got used to.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+A view from the forest, on the way up from Malga Ciapèla to Forca Rossa.
+</em></p>
+
+The forest soon leaves space to grassy slopes and naked rock. The way
+up is still pleasant, and we have met almost no other hiker so far -
+in stark contrast with the previous day.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+The lower clay-red peak on the center-left of the picture is Forca Rossa,
+where we are headed. "Rossa" in Italian means "red" - it's nice when things
+are what their name says they are, isn't it?
+</em></p>
+
+We arrive at *Forca Rossa* (2500m) at 13:05. Only in the last few minutes
+my knee gave me some problems, but it is not so bad that it makes me
+want to stop.
+
+Here at the top of this trail there are all the hikers that we did not
+meet on the way up; they probably came from the other side. There must
+be some kind of force field blocking tourists from entering the province
+of Belluno.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>View from Forca Rossa to the Belluno side.</em></p>
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>My dad and I chilling - quite literally, because of the wind.</em></p>
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>View from Forca Rossa to the Trentino side.</em></p>
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## Walking down green pastures
+
+There is a great view on both sides of this pass, but the wind is cold
+and strong and we are not keen on staying long. After eating a couple
+of protein bars and taking many pictures, we start walking down towards
+Fuciade at 13:40.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Walking down to Fuciade.</em></p>
+
+The way down is quite relaxing. We walk among green pastures, where
+cows and horses grazed freely. That is, until they are less romantically
+slaughtered to make [Bresaola](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bresaola).
+But until then they can enjoy the green grass.
+
+At 15:00 we reach Fuciade (1982m), a location where many families with
+kids were relaxing after a meal at [the hut](https://www.fuciade.it/en/).
+If one wants a more quiet place, a short walk up the trail that we were
+descending quickly leads away from the crowd. This place gave a sense
+of tranquillity.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Me relaxing in Fuciade while I enjoy a glass of
+<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shandy#Radler">radler</a>
+- don't be fooled by the Coca-Cola can.</em></p>
+
+After a short short break, we move to
+[Rifugio Flora Alpina](https://floralpina.it) (1800m), that we reach
+quickly at around 16:00. The place is surrounded by the forest,
+and the only visible peaks are the
+[Mulaz](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mulaz) and the
+[Focobón group](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruppo_del_Focobon).
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+A spectacular view of the Mulaz and the Focobón group. As the light
+changed and the clouds moved, the colors changed as well. I spent quite
+some time just sitting outside the hut, admiring these mountains.
+</em></p>
+
+Now, for the first time since we started our journey, we have some time
+to relax before dinner. We enjoy a sauna and a hot tub.
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+# Day 5 - Entering the Pala group
+
+<p align="center"><em>August 24, 2025</em></p>
+
+<img src="../img/24-0000-map.png">
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## Back on track
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+This photo is the same at the last one of the previous day,
+but it is one of my best shots. It is also quite fascinating how the light
+at dawn mixes up all the colors compared to previous day's picture.
+</em></p>
+
+After a long sleep, we are ready to leave Flora Alpina at 8:20. Our
+first checkpoint is the
+[San Pellegrino Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Pellegrino_Pass),
+(1918 meters on sea level) which is unfortunately a bit farther away than
+it would have been if we slept in Fuciade.
+
+It takes us about one hour to reach the pass. On the way we saw a cow
+breastfeeding her calf, which was cute. We cross the main road on the pass,
+and from here we have to walk up on grassy slopes and ski paths. The
+signs point to a path that is not the one we planned, but the two tracks
+join shortly afterwards. The ski paths are extremely steep, but wide,
+so we can easily zig-zag all the way up.
+
+At 10:30 we reach the *Pale di Gargol* (2218m), a plane that I am not
+sure why deserves a name. Perhaps the name refers to the whole area
+which I guess could be described as a rocky meadow.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+The Pale di Gargol. The term "pala" means "shovel" in Italian,
+but according to the
+<a href="https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pale_di_San_Martino#Il_toponimo">
+Italian Wikipedia page</a> about the
+<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pala_group">Pale di San Martino</a>
+mountains, in the local language it once denoted a grassy slope at the
+feet of a mountain range.
+</em></p>
+
+Once again, the landscape has changed to show us something completely
+different from that we have seen so far. The constant shifting from rocks,
+to forest, to grass, to yet other types of rock and any combination of
+those features is in my opinion one of the most fascinating aspects of
+Alta Via 2.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Walking down to Passo Valles.
+In the background, the Pale di San Martino.</em></p>
+
+The trail continues almost flat in this unusual scenery until we
+descend to [Passo Valles](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passo_Valles) (2032m)
+at around 11:50. We are now entering the fascinating section of
+the *Pale di San Martino*, also known in English as the
+[Pala group](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pala_group), of which
+the Mulaz and the Focobón group are the northernmost peaks.
+
+But first we need a break. We stop at a bar on the pass for a coffee
+and a slice of strüdel.
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## Veneggia, Venegiotta and Pass dei Fochet
+
+We leave the pass at 12:20, and in half an hour we reach Forcella
+Veneggia (2217m). The view opens up to the wild valley in the south.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>The view from Forcella Veneggia.</em></p>
+
+So far, the day has not been particularly challenging. Later on
+we'll have to pass some difficult sections, but for now we continue
+on some easy, if narrow, trails.
+
+Despite the beauty of the place, we don't meet many other hikers.
+In fact, I think we saw more marmots than people in this part of
+the route.
+
+
+
+At around 14:00 we reach *Passo Venegiotta* (2300m), and about 30 minutes
+later *Passo dei Fochet* (2291m). The weather has been good today so far,
+but here a strong cold wind starts blowing, and we can feel a few drops
+of rain.
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## Through the rocks, to Rifugio Mulaz
+
+The landscape changes once again. We are now walking on rocks and gravel.
+
+
+
+We walk down a scree to around 2175m, before starting to climb up again.
+It's cold and cloudy, and this part of the trail is a fair bit more
+difficult than the previous. Nothing particularly hard or dangerous,
+but we have to pay more attention to where we put our feet.
+
+The trail abruptly becomes extremely steep, and very demanding on my
+muscles, which so far had been enjoying a more relaxing day.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+Some steel ropes help make the climb to Rifugio Mulaz less dangerous.
+</em></p>
+
+We reach Rifugio Mulaz (2570m) at 16:40, after a little more
+than 8 hours from when we left Flora Alpina. Somehow, despite the
+long walk between them, both these places are in the territory of
+[Falcade](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falcade).
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Reaching Rifugio Mulaz</em></p>
+
+From this hut, the only landscape you can see, in any direction, is naked
+rock. There is a tiny window from where you can see a valley, but the
+sight is cut out and the only visible thing is more rocks. Definitely
+fascinating, although I personally prefer more varied landscapes.
+
+I'll add a picture on the next day's page, the early morning light
+was much better.
+
+Oh and by the way, up here every resource is very scarce. There is
+no drinkable tap water, and showers cost 8€ for 5 minutes. But I
+really need one today.
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+# Day 6 - The Farangole trail
+
+<p align="center"><em>August 25, 2025</em></p>
+
+<img src="../img/25-0000-map.png">
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## The starry night
+
+During the night I woke up and managed to catch a glimpse of a wonderful
+starry night, the likes of which I had never seen before.
+
+If you live in a place with a lot of light pollution, like every medium
+to large city in the World, seeing *a few* stars may already be an unusual
+experience. At the moment I live in a fairly small city, and we literally
+never see stars over here. We are lucky if we see Venus once in a while.
+
+But I grew up in a small village in a sparsely populated area, I *was*
+used to seeing skies full of stars at night. But this time, at 2500
+metres above sea level, in the middle of literally nowhere, the sky was
+soething else.
+
+I did not manage to take a good picture, sorry. I did not feel like
+going out in the freezing cold, and my phone's camera is probably not
+good enough anyway.
+
+## The Farangole pass
+
+At Rifugio Mulaz, the sun rises at 6:40 and sets at around 7:05.
+In the morning. Luckily for you, I got up early enough to catch
+the *sunset*.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+Rifugio Mulaz is closely surrounded by high mountains. This is the
+only spot where you could see something in the distance. This time
+of the year, the sun rises from the peaks on the left of this picture,
+only to hide away behind those on the right a few minutes later.
+</em></p>
+
+It's a beautiful day, if only a bit cold. This time we get up earlier than
+usual and we are ready to leave at 7:15. The main challenge of the day
+is going to be the *Passo delle Farangole* (2932 meters on sea level),
+a high mountain pass not far from the hut. Our guide book even suggests
+a possible alternative route for less confident hikers, but we deemed
+it within our capabilities.
+
+After steep, but short, climb to *Forcella Margherita* (2655m) we reach a
+section of the trail that would not be particularly challenging, if
+not for the fact that the track is not well marked.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+The trail after Forcella Margherita, right before the Farangole pass.
+</em></p>
+
+In fact, the traces of the hikers who missed the path are *more* visible
+than the actual trail, likely because said hikers made them more clear
+by backtracking their steps when they realized they were out of the
+trail. We do the same a couple of times.
+
+We soon reach the start of the equipped trail that leads to the pass,
+but it looks sketchy, so I decide to try climbing up the scree next to
+it. This was probably a mistake, so we soon turn left and attach our
+trusty ropes to the steel supports.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Climbing up to the Farangole Pass.</em></p>
+
+The track is very steep, and at times
+[exposed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_%28heights%29), but the
+steel ropes and the other supporting material is in a good state.
+Overall, this famous Farangole Pass is easier than we expected.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+And down we go. The steel ladder looks like it ends in the void,
+but actually there is an extra steel beam protruding from the
+rock, and after that there is only a 60cm drop.
+</em></p>
+
+After clearing the pass at around 9:00, we feel satisfied and proud of
+ourselves. My knee does not even hurt anymore.
+
+Little did we now that the truly difficult part is the Farangole *trail*,
+which we'll have to go through later this morning. But for now, in our
+blissful ignorance, we enjoy the beautiful weather and we take plenty
+of pictures as we walk down from the pass.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+The view North, towards the mountains we have just passed.
+</em></p>
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>An imposing rocky plateau on the South.</em></p>
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>The view to the North-East.</em></p>
+
+## The Farangole trail
+
+As the trail gets tight and very exposed, we realize that maybe
+*this* is the section the guide book was warning us about. We
+proceed carefully, attaching our home-made harness when a steel rope
+is available. Unfortunately, most of the trail is on a narrow ledge
+surrounded by grass and soft soil, where no piece of supporting material
+can be fixed. At least it is not wet today.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+My dad walking on a narrow section of the Farangole trail.
+</em></p>
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Another hiker following us on the same trail.</em></p>
+
+Since this trail is challenging and dangerous, we have to keep
+constant focus on our steps and the way ahead of us. We have little
+time to relax and enjoy the beautiful view, and we take much fewer
+pictures than we did earlier.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+The view from the last part of the Farangole trail, towards
+the East. Soon we'll have to walk down to the dry bed of the
+river you can see at the bottom of this picture. The tiny line
+on the hill on the left is the Farangole trail.
+</em></p>
+
+At 12:30 we reach the bottom of *Valgrande* (*Pian dei Cantoni*, 2310m).
+
+## To Rifugio Rosetta and beyond
+
+The way up to Rifugio Rosetta is steep, but short. The previous
+part was not physically demanding, but it was dangerous and
+technically fairly challenging. I am relieved that now I can just
+let my legs bring me up, and I reach the hut at 13:05.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Rifugio Rosetta</em></p>
+
+[Rifugio Rosetta](https://www.rifugiorosetta.it) (2581m) is easily
+reachable with a cable car, and because of this it is very crowded,
+similarly to the area around Piz Boè that we passed through on
+[day 3](../day3).
+
+This is a good time for a break, so we decide to sit down, drink
+a glass of [skiwasser](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skiwasser), and
+eat another slice of strüdel. Yes, we ate a lot of those. The one
+they serve in this hut is particularly good, with plenty of fresh
+fruit and pine nuts.
+
+We get up and leave the hut at 14:05. The weather gets cold and foggy,
+but luckily for us it won't last long. Our plan is to walk down until
+*Col de le Fede* (2200m) and then up again to *Pass dei Ball* (2433m).
+
+The way down is slow and tedious, and my knee starts hurting again.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Walking down from Rifugio Rosetta.</em></p>
+
+The way up to the pass is steep, and there is a long section equipped
+with a steel rope. But the equipped part is actually very easy compared
+to other similar trails that we have walked this morning and in the
+previous days.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>My dad walking on this equipped section.</em></p>
+
+After reaching Pass dei Ball, we walk down slowly to
+[Rifugio Pradidali](https://www.rifugiopradidali.com/eng/Home.html)
+(2278m), which we reach at 17:05.
+
+Later we would discover that there is an alternative route to
+go from Rosetta to Pradidali, which starts by walking up to the
+East and skips both the slow and tedious descent and the
+more steep section before Pass dei Ball. This alternative path was
+probably slightly easier, but it would not have saved us that much
+time and effort.
+
+The Pradidali is a nice hut, but there is no phone signal nor WiFi.
+The showers are still expensive, and when it is my turn the water boiler
+has run out of gas, and I can either wait for it to be replaced or do a
+freezing cold shower. I don't want to wait, so arctic shower here I come!
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+# Day 7 - The longest day
+
+<p align="center"><em>August 26, 2025</em></p>
+
+<img src="../img/26-0000-map.png">
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## A relaxing stroll in Val Canali
+
+Last night we had to check our maps, because we were not sure which route
+we would be going, according to our plan. We did not remember that the
+guide book suggested two possible alternatives to reach the next hut,
+Rifugio Treviso: a higher mountain trail, with some challenging sections,
+and an easier one that starts by walking down the *Val Canali*, a valley
+that leads out of the Pala group and into the *Vette Feltrine* mountain
+range. Our plan was to follow the easier route, and we decided to stick
+to it.
+
+We leave the Pradidali at 7:30.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+Rifugio Pradidali and a mountain behind it, in a beautiful sunny morning.
+Maybe I should have taken notes of the names of the peaks I photographed.
+Oh well, too late now.
+</em></p>
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Val Canali.</em></p>
+
+The descent is quite diverse, alternating between rocks, gravel, grass
+and forest. There are some steel ropes that seem oddly placed in a very
+simple section, but they would probably be useful in a rainy day.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+Walking down an easy trail, in a typical Dolomite landscape.
+</em></p>
+
+At 9:50 we reach the ruins of *malga Pradidali* (1428 meters on sea level).
+So far it has been a nice sunny day, and the walk has been easy. But the
+end of the day will be very different.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+The ruins of malga Pradidali. A "malga" is a building where people
+temporarily lived in the Summer while their livestock grazed the high
+mountain pastures that surround it. Malga Antersasc, that we passed by on
+<a href="../day1">day one</a>, is another example. Many malgas are still
+in use nowadays, and they often sell locally-produced dairy products,
+but unfortunately for us we only found ruins so far.
+</em></p>
+
+The trail continues in the forest, and at 10:35 we pass by *malga
+Canali* (1307m). This one *was* in use, and we could have stopped to
+eat something if we wanted, but we did not.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>The pastures behind malga Canali.</em></p>
+
+We now have to walk up to reach Rifugio Treviso (1631m). The trail in
+the forest becomes steep, but it does not last long. We reach the hut
+at 11:40, and it is time for a break.
+
+
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## The return of the clouds
+
+After taking a few pictures and a slice of a typical alpine dessert (I'll
+let you guess which one), we are ready to start walking again at 12:30.
+
+Our next checkpoint is *forcella d'Oltro* (2094m). My knee has been
+good so far, but I still try not to put too much weight on it. The road
+up to the forcella is steep, and we are tired. We have done nothing but
+walking steep trails for more than a week at this point. We walk slowly,
+but steadily.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>The forested slopes on the North-West.</em></p>
+
+On our way up, we meet a couple walking down from the forcella. They
+tell us that they could see nothing at all on the other side, because
+of the fog and the clouds. We are not sure if we should take them
+literally, because it is such a sunny day on this side. But indeed,
+when we reach the tight pass at 14:30, we can see it with out own eyes.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>The fog on the other side of forcella d'Oltro.</em></p>
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+The side where we came from, in contrast, is perfectly sunny.
+</em></p>
+
+We need another short break, but we don't want to stay here for
+too long. As often happens in these high passes,
+the wind is strong and chilling.
+
+We thought this would be the last place above 2000 meters of the whole
+trip. Or at the very least for the day, considering that all that was
+left was walking down to the
+[Cereda Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cereda_Pass).
+But we were not exactly right.
+
+## Down? Not so fast, cowboy
+
+The descent to the Cereda Pass starts very steep, and we quickly loose
+about 200 meters of altitude. But then the trail starts going up again,
+and slowly but surely we walk up, and up, and up. The road is not steep,
+but we are walking on a tight ledge on a grassy slope that requires us
+to focus.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+Me on this tight path that, for whatever reason, is leading back
+up instead of down to Pass Cereda. As you can see, I am not amused.
+</em></p>
+
+Only after we reach the altitude of 2150m do we start going down,
+but this time very slowly. We cannot see very far due to the fog,
+and in any case we would still be hyper-focused on our steps.
+But at least there are some interesting rock formations close to
+us that are worth admiring.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Some interesting rock formations close to the trail.</em></p>
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>A tree growing on top of a naked rock.</em></p>
+
+The trail gradually becomes less exposed, but more steep. My knee starts
+hurting once again, but I am not surprised, considering how long we have
+been walking since this morning.
+
+After what feels like an eternity of wandering through the fog,
+we reach the hotel at the Cereda Pass (1361m) at 18:15. After
+almost 11 hours of walk, my feet and my knees are begging for mercy.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>The pastures around the Cereda Pass.</em></p>
+
+We have a private room at [Rifugio
+Cereda](https://www.rifugiocereda.com/en/), where
+we can have a shower, and we rest well. The food is
+also amazing: I have what is one of the best plates of
+[*käsespätzle*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K%C3%A4sesp%C3%A4tzle)
+of my life. By the way, over here the spätzle are prepared with spinach
+and they are green, not white; I think they do the same in Tyrol, but
+definitely not in Germany.
+
+Unfortunately, the weather forecasts for the next day are not as good
+as our dinner.
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+# Day 8 - The Troi dei Caserin
+
+<p align="center"><em>August 27, 2025</em></p>
+
+<img src="../img/27-0000-map.png">
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## A damp morning
+
+Today the final part of Alta Via 2 begins. We are entering the *Vette
+Feltrine*, a part that is perhaps less well-known by tourists, but no
+less beautiful. The trails we'll have to walk are going to be narrow,
+often steep.
+
+The weather forecasts for the day are not great, but we
+should reach [Rifugio Boz](https://www.rifugioboz.it/) (1718 meters
+on sea level) before it starts raining. For now there is just a thick fog,
+and the weather is unpleasantly hot and humid.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Our last sight of Rifugio Cereda and the Pala Group.</em></p>
+
+We leave at 7:45. At first we walk on a secondary paved road, then on
+a dirt road. Both my guide booklet and the signs try to make us walk
+downhill towards the nearby villages of Matiuz and Padreterno, but there
+is a clearly faster road that stays in the forest and leads to the
+start of the actual trail.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+The top sign is marked as "AV2", for Alta Via 2. There is a gap that
+was probably filled by a sign pointing left, which is the way we took.
+I suspect someone - perhaps the local forest authorities - removed
+the sign because they did not want people to go that way, but I
+can't imagine why. Or perhaps the sign simply fell off.
+</em></p>
+
+After about one hour of walk in the forest, the actual trail begins.
+The humidity is very intense, still unpleasant. Unfortunately this also
+means that the pictures of the day are very... foggy.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>The valley behind us, in the fog.</em></p>
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## L'Intaiàda
+
+The trail becomes steep, and then extremely steep. We walk along
+a vertical wall of granite, where a narrow passage is carved out.
+Indeed, this part of the trail is called *L'Intaiàda*, which
+can be roughly translated as *The Carved-Out*.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Admittedly not the best picture of L'Intaiàda.</em></p>
+
+The trail continues, narrow and exposed, but well equipped with some
+sturdy metal ropes where needed. It requires some attention, but I don't
+find it scary or particularly difficult; there is always some rock or
+support piece I can hang on to rest while I think about the next steps.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Another section of L'Intaiàda.</em></p>
+
+
+
+The trail continues very steep, and at 12:05 we reach the *Pass del
+Comedon* (2130m).
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>View from the pass.</em></p>
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## A quick break at Bivacco Feltre
+
+From the pass we walk down an extremely steep trail, initially very
+exposed, then less scary.
+
+My left knee has been doing well so far, but suddently I feel an acute
+sting of pain that almost makes loose my balance. This is not good. It
+is also very different from the constant, mild to moderate pain that I
+have felt when walking downhill in the past few days. But I push through,
+slowly and steadily.
+
+The fog becomes even thicker, at times we can't see much farther than
+20-30 meters.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>We are close to Bivacco Feltre, but we can't see it.</em></p>
+
+For a brief moment I catch a glimpse of *Bivacco Feltre* (1930m), a
+[sheet metal shelter](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bivouac_shelter)
+where hikers can wait for the bad weather to subside, or spend the night
+in case of need.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Bivacco Feltre.</em></p>
+
+We reach the bivouac at 13:05, and we decide to take a break. We eat
+a protein bar and refill our water bottles. Unfortunately, we can see
+literally nothing besides the meadow around us, and the fog.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+Our view from Bivacco Feltre. The guide book describes the place
+as "pleasant and majestic". I guess I'll have to trust them on this one.
+</em></p>
+
+We need some rest, but we don't want to wait for too long. The journey
+is still long, and if we don't reach our destination before 17:00 we
+will probably be caught by the forecasted thunderstorm. We leave the
+bivouac at 13:30.
+
+## The Troi dei Caserin
+
+From the shelter we walk down, loosing about 200 or 300 meters of
+altitude. We quickly gain them back, as the trail continues upwards.
+The fog is still very thick, we can't see further than 10m.
+
+The trail so far is not particuarly hard, but there are some interesting
+passages where we have to cross some waterfalls and some small water
+streams. Or maybe I found them interesting only because my bad knee
+prevented me from pushing with my left leg and I had to make some complex
+alternative manouvers.
+
+
+
+At 14:50 we reach *Col dei Bech* (1960m), which means *Ibex' hill*.
+And in fact, just after Cold dei Bech, in one of the rare moments when
+the fog let us see at more than 15 meters, we did see a small family
+of chamois. Ok, not quite ibex, but close enough. Judging from the
+quantity of warm shit that we saw on the trail, they had probably walked
+right ahead of us for a while.
+
+We continue on this trail that becomes increasingly narrow and exposed,
+difficult in some sections. We are on the *Troi dei Caserin* ("the
+Caserins' trail").
+
+
+
+There are some steel ropes in the most dangerous parts, but not for
+long: soon we reach a grassy section, and the trail becomes ever
+more narrow. On our left, the emptiness of a hundred-meters free fall is
+hidden by the fog. My aching knee makes everything even more challenging.
+
+We did not take many pictures of this part of the journey, mainly because
+we were focusing on keeping our feet on the ground. Apparently, my dad
+and I walked this same trail some 15 years ago, when it was covered in
+half a meter of snow. And I say apparently because, even though we both
+remember that trip quite well, we have no recollection of taking such a
+dangerous path in those conditions. But there is no alternative road,
+so we must have done it... somehow.
+
+At 16:45 we reach *Pass de Mura* (1867m). The view opens up, but we
+can't quite see our destination yet.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>
+You see the tiny building down there? It is not Rifugio
+Boz, but Malga Neva. Luckily for us, the Rifugio is closer than that.
+</em></p>
+
+We walk down from the pass and we reach [Rifugio
+Boz](https://www.rifugioboz.it/) (1718m) at 17:05. Just as we walk
+through the door, a strong storm begins.
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## At Rifugio Boz
+
+We are tired, hungry and our muscles are sore. As we check in, the hut
+manager asks us if we are walking the Alta Via. We respond that yes,
+we are, and tomorrow we will be going all the way to [Rifugio Dal
+Piaz](https://www.rifugiodalpiaz.com), and we'll finally walk down
+victorious to Croce d'Aune in the evening.
+
+"Are you sure about that?" - she says.
+
+"Why?" - we ask, not sure if she was joking or not.
+
+"Have you seen the weather forecast?"
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+# Day 9 - Cutting it short
+
+<p align="center"><em>August 28, 2025</em></p>
+
+<img src="../img/28-0000-map.png">
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## An inevitable decision
+
+The last leg of the Alta Via 2 is long, challenging and dangerous.
+Most of the trail is on top of a ridge, exposed on both sides, and strong
+winds are frequent.
+
+And in the afternoon of August 28, the last day of our Alta Via 2, there
+are going to be strong thunderstorms. The manager at Rifugio Boz told
+us "I have walked this trail many times, but with a weather like this,
+I would never dare".
+
+We are prepared and experienced, but we are powerless against the forces
+of nature. We give up. On August 28, the last day of our Alta Via 2,
+we are not going to Rifugio Dal Piaz, or to Croce d'Aune. We are going
+down a safer trail, in the forest of the
+[*Val Canzoi*](https://www.dolomitipark.it/en/visiting-the-park/itineraries/on-foot/nature-trails/val-di-canzoi/),
+and we are going to conclude our adventure half a day earlier.
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## From Rifugio Boz to Malga Alvis
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Rifugio Boz with the
+<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sass_de_Mura">Sass de Mura</a>
+in the background.</em></p>
+
+We leave the hut at 7:35. The are two ways to walk down to Val Canzoi:
+either we climb up to *Passo Alvis*, or to *Passo Finestra*. We
+choose the former, as the trail that comes down from Passo Alvis
+ends close to a bar where we can wait for someone to pick us up.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>We walk together with other 3 hikers to Passo Alvis.
+We are not the only ones who decided to cut the Alta Via short.</em></p>
+
+The weather is not bad for now. There are clouds, but it is not raining.
+But the afternoon storm is going to be massive.
+
+At 7:55 we are up to Passo Alvis (1880 meters on sea level). From there,
+we only need to go down another 1000 meters. We can't quite see the
+bottom of the valley, but we do see the back of the main mountains that
+are also visible from our home.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>The view from Passo Alvis. In the back, partly hidden by the
+clouds, you can see the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pizzocco">
+Pizzocco</a>,
+the main mountain that rises above our home town. We are coming home!</em></p>
+
+We walk down from the pass. The descent starts steep, but the trail is
+not difficult. We see one last family of chamoix, running away from us.
+
+At 8:40 we reach Malga Alvis (1573m).
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Malga Alvis.</em></p>
+
+It starts raining. We take shelter inside the malga. The building
+is not used for its original purpose anymore, but it is maintained
+by the local natural park administration as a bivouac for hikers.
+Some 15 years ago, in a cold late April, my dad and I spent the night
+here before continuing our hike the following day.
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## Down to the valley, one last time
+
+Luckily the rain stops soon, and the five of us can continue our march.
+The *Lago della Stua* is now visible.
+
+
+
+<p align="center"><em>Lago della Stua in Val Canzoi.</em></p>
+
+We keep going down. My knee starts hurting again, but we are almost there.
+Overall I enjoyed this last part of the journey. The trail in this
+mid-mountain forest is exactly the kind of road that I used to walk a
+lot years ago, when I frequently hiked around these mountains.
+
+Our adventure ends at 10:40, on the dam of the lake.
+
+
+
+We reach the nearby bar, we sit down, we drink a
+[spritz](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spritz_(cocktail)).
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+# After the hike
+
+## Back home
+
+*August 28, 2025*
+
+My dad's cousin came to pick us up. As we got into the car, the
+storm started. From there, it kept raining the whole afternoon. Not
+coninuously, it came and went, but when it was there it was
+very strong. The bad weather continued for a couple of days.
+
+We made a good call ending our trip early.
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## Celebration
+
+*August 29, 2025*
+
+Some of the people we met along the way arrived in Feltre on the next
+day. Like use, they could not properly finish the Alta Via, as the bad
+weather caught them when they arrived at Passo Cereda.
+
+We decided to meet for a dinner all together at [Birreria
+Pedavena](https://www.labirreriapedavena.it/), the largest brewery in
+Italy, which is conveniently located between Croce d'Aune and Feltre. In
+fact, if you walk Alta Via 2 all the way to Feltre, you pass right in
+front of the Birreria.
+
+
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## Award
+
+*September 2, 2025*
+
+Upon completing Alta Via 2, hikers can receive an official pin. It is
+awarded by the tourist office in Feltre, where they can also
+add their name to the book of "finishers".
+
+As you know, we did not complete the full Alta Via. But since Feltre is
+just around the corner, we thought why not go there and ask? In the end,
+the exact route of Alta Via 2 is not set in stone.
+
+It turns out that, according to the guidelines laid out by the Italian
+Alpine Club, reaching Rifugio Boz is enough to officially complete Alta
+Via 2 and be called a finisher!
+
+
+
+Indeed, they know that the last leg of the hike is often skipped due to
+bad weather. Ending the journey at Passo Cereda, however, is not enough.
+
+So now we also have some official recognition for our effort. Cool!
+
+<div class="page-break"></div>
+
+## Farewell to the mountains
+
+*September 3, 2025*
+
+After the hike I spent a few days at home with my family. But now it is
+time to go back to the flat lands, where I have been living for the past
+few years.
+
+My flight back to Amsterdam, as it sometimes does, flew right over the
+Dolomites. I was able to recognize not only my home town, but also many of
+the mountains and valleys my dad and I walked through just a week earlier.
+
+
diff --git a/src/style.css b/src/style.css
@@ -16,8 +16,8 @@ body { margin: auto 8px 20px 8px; }
a { color: #0f2899; text-decoration: none; }
a:hover { text-decoration: underline; }
img { display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; max-width: 100%; }
-pre { background-color: #eeeeee; border: 2px solid; padding:
- 6px; overflow-x: auto; }
+pre { background-color: #eeeeee; border: 2px solid;
+ padding: 6px; overflow-x: auto; }
pre code { padding: 0px; }
code { background-color: #eeeeee; padding: 2px; }
#blob { background: #ffffff; border: none; }
@@ -29,3 +29,10 @@ td h1 { text-align: left; font-size: 1.5em; }
#log tr:hover td, #files tr:hover td { background-color: #eeeeee; }
.url td { font-family: monospace; }
table tr td a img { min-width: 33px; }
+
+/* Page break for printing */
+@media print {
+ .page-break { break-before: always; }
+ img, p { break-inside: avoid; }
+ h1, h2, h3 { break-after: avoid; }
+}
diff --git a/top-nobar.html b/top-nobar.html
@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
+<!doctype html>
+<html lang="en">
+<head>
+ <title> TITLE | Sebastiano Tronto </title>
+ <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width">
+ <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/style.css?v=2">
+ <link rel="icon" href="/favicon.ico?v=1">
+ <meta charset="utf-8">
+</head>
+
+<body>
+<main>
diff --git a/top.html b/top.html
@@ -3,8 +3,8 @@
<head>
<title> TITLE | Sebastiano Tronto </title>
<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width">
- <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/style.css">
- <link rel="icon" href="/favicon.ico">
+ <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/style.css?v=2">
+ <link rel="icon" href="/favicon.ico?v=1">
<meta charset="utf-8">
</head>
