av2.noheadermd (60138B)
1 # Alta Via 2 2 3  4 5 [Alta Via 2](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alta_Via_2) is high mountain 6 route in the [Dolomites](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolomites). It goes 7 from [Brixen](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brixen), in South Tyrol, to 8 [Feltre](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feltre), the city where I was born. 9 With its 180km of lenght and around 10000 meters of altitude gain, it 10 requires multiple days to complete, with most guides suggesting a 12- 11 or 13-day itinerary. 12 13 In August 2025, my father and I completed this route, walking for 14 9 consecutive days. In these pages I am going to tell you about 15 this adventure, and share some of the pictures that we took. 16 If you are interested in hiking similar routes, you may find 17 some useful information here, but I am not aiming at writing a 18 technical description of the hike. 19 20 * [Preparation](../preparation) 21 * [Day 1 - The Odles in the rain](../day1) 22 * [Day 2 - Trail 666](../day2) 23 * [Day 3 - A knee-breaking descent](../day3) 24 * [Day 4 - The forest and the pastures](../day4) 25 * [Day 5 - Entering the Pala group](../day5) 26 * [Day 6 - The Farangole trail](../day6) 27 * [Day 7 - The longest day](../day7) 28 * [Day 8 - The Troi dei Caserin](../day8) 29 * [Day 9 - Cutting it short](../day9) 30 * [After the hike](../after) 31 32 You can view these pages at 33 [https://sebastiano.tronto.net/av2](https://sebastiano.tronto.net/av2). 34 35 <div class="page-break"></div> 36 37 # Day 1 - The Odles in the rain 38 39 <p align="center"><em>August 20, 2025</em></p> 40 41 <img src="../img/20-0000-map.png"> 42 <div class="page-break"></div> 43 44 ## The road to Kreutztal 45 46 Our first day starts quite early, as we wake up at 5:15. My uncle is 47 giving us a car ride to Kreutztal, which will take a little more than 48 3 hours. We leave at 5:55. 49 50 We drive up the Cordevole valley, a road that reminds me of the 51 many hikes I used to do in the Dolomites, usually starting from the 52 [Falzarego pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falzarego_Pass), 53 hiking around the [Tofane](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tofane), 54 the [Cinque Torri](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinque_Torri), 55 [Averau](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Averau) and others. 56 But we are not going there this time. 57 58 The road itself is quite scenic. Sorry, I did not 59 take any pictures pictures. Going North, we drive 60 through popular touristic destinations like Arabba and 61 [Corvara](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corvara%2C_South_Tyrol). 62 But these small towns leave a weird impression on me, as they are made 63 up mostly of hotels and a few restaurants and bars - all closed because 64 it is too early for turists to wake up. Are these places just holiday 65 resorts now? 66 67 Just before we reach Kreutztal, our starting point, it starts raining. 68 69 <div class="page-break"></div> 70 71 ## The hike begins 72 73  74 75 <p align="center"><em>My dad and I, ready to start hiking.</em></p> 76 77 By the time we reach Kreutztal (2000 meters on sea level), park the car 78 and put on our rain clothes, it is already 9:30. And this is going to 79 be one of the longest days, at least according to our estimates. 80 81 The [Plosehütte](https://www.plosehuette.com/en/) (2447m) is not 82 far, and we reach it pretty quickly. Unfortunately, it is closed for 83 renovations, and we can't even get close enough to take a picture of 84 our first checkpoint. 85 86 At least the view from up there is... something. 87 88  89 90 <p align="center"><em>The <a 91 href="https://www.val-gardena.com/en/dolomites/geisler-mountain-group">Odles</a> 92 surrounded by clouds.</em></p> 93 94 The clouds came and went, but this is pretty much the clearest the 95 skies have been the whole morning. Besides the cold and the rain being 96 unpleasant, the low visibility gave us some technical difficulties: 97 right after passing by the hut, we found ourselves on a grassy slope and 98 we lost the track. In normal conditions we would have been able to look 99 out for the next trail marking, but with this thick fog we were forced 100 to double check our GPS and our maps. 101 102 ## Down through the forest, then up again 103 104 Luckily, it did not take us long to find the right way, and we kept 105 descending in a [larch](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Larch) forest. 106 107  108 109 <p align="center"><em>A trail in a forest between Plosehütte and 110 Schlüterhütte - Rifugio Genova.</em></p> 111 112 The descent is pleasant. We even manage to catch some break from the 113 heavy rain, and take a few more pictures of the Odles. 114 115  116 117 We reach the Rodella Pass (1867m) at around 13:00, 118 and from there we walk up to [Schlüterhutte - Rifugio 119 Genova](https://www.schlueterhuette.com/en/) (2297m). I did not take 120 many notes of this part of the journey, there was too much rain for me 121 to take out my journal and write. 122 123 As the trail is crossed by a stream of water, we have to pass a short 124 challenging section, where we are forced to climb on the wet rock. 125 The climb itself is not hard, but the trail is not clearly marked at 126 that point, which left us wondering if we were doing the right thing. 127 128 We are then blocked by a more difficult trail feature: cows. 129 130  131 132 <p align="center"><em>Cows are blocking the road. Yes, that little gap is 133 the only way forward.</em></p> 134 135 After overcoming this zoological obstacle, we reached the 136 Schlüterhütte - Rifugio Genova at 16:00 and we stop for a slice of 137 [*Apfelstrudel*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_strudel). 138 139  140 141 <p align="center"><em>Rifugio Genova - Schlüterhütte in the fog.</em></p> 142 143 <div class="page-break"></div> 144 145 ## The long descent to the village 146 147 At 6 hours and 30 minutes of hiking, this would have been a good first 148 day. But unfortunately we cannot stop here. At 16:30 we begin the long 149 descent towards Lungiarü (1398m). 150 151  152 153 <p align="center"><em>Down there, that's where we have to go. Do you see 154 it? Me neither.</em></p> 155 156 We walk for two hours in the rain and the fog before reaching the 157 village. Two hours may not sound like much, but it felt like an eternity. 158 159 Just before the village, we pass by a place called 160 [*Val di Morins*](https://www.alta-badia.org/en/highlights/sights/val-di-morins-mill-valley/), 161 which means "Mill Valley" in Ladin. 162 163  164 <p align="center"><em> 165 A watermill. In this area it was common to build half-pipes 166 with larch trunks to lead the water to the mill. 167 </em></p> 168 169 The village of Lungiarü, in [Val 170 Badia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Val_Badia), is quite nice, but we 171 have no energy left for sightseeing. All we can do before falling asleep 172 is a shower, dinner, and trying to dry our clothes for the next day. 173 174 <div class="page-break"></div> 175 176 # Day 2 - Trail 666 177 178 <p align="center"><em>August 21, 2025</em></p> 179 180 <img src="../img/21-0000-map.png"> 181 <div class="page-break"></div> 182 183 ## The beginning of a long day 184 185 According to our plan, this second day is going to be the toughest. 186 Our planned route consists of more than 1700m of altitude gain, which 187 would already be quite a long hike for a single day, leave alone for one 188 out of 9 consecutive days of walking. Moreover, the weather forecasts 189 for the day are not good - there is a chance of thunderstorms in the 190 afternoon. 191 192 Luckily we find someone willing to give us a car ride from our B&B to 193 the edge of the village, saving us about one hour of walk. We start 194 walking at around 8:30. 195 196 The first part of the trail is not very steep, and the weather is 197 not too bad either. We even manage to see some mountains! 198 199  200 201 <p align="center"><em>The Puez-Odle group.</em></p> 202 203 In about an hour we reach *malga Antersasc* (2084m on sea 204 level). Around this small abandoned building we see a few 205 [chamois](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamois) and some very fat 206 [marmots](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmot) - seriously, those 207 things were huge! Unfortunately all the pictures I took were terrible, 208 you need some pretty good camera to catch them from a distance. 209 210  211 212 <p align="center"><em> 213 Sorry for the lack of marmot pictures. Here 214 is a shot of myself staring at a tree growing on top of a rock instead. 215 </em></p> 216 217 After a short break, we get back on the trail and start walking towards 218 the [Puez hut](https://www.rifugiopuez.it/en/). We could already tell 219 from the map that the trail up to *forcella Puez* (2500m), before the 220 hut, was going to be very steep. However, we found it to be very well 221 maintained, which made it easier than we expected. 222 223  224 225 <p align="center"><em> 226 The trail up to forcella Puez is reinforced with some trunks that 227 turn it almost into a staircase.</em></p> 228 229 Unfortunately, as we walked up, the weather got much worse. 230 We were forced to wear all our rain clothes again, including gloves. 231 232 We reach the Puez hut (2447m) at 11:20, earlier than planned. We take 233 some time to rest and try to dry up from the rain; I change my socks 234 and t-shirt, which definitely helps. 235 236 ## The forgotten Forcellas 237 238 (*Forcella* is an Italian term that denotes a tight mountain pass, usually 239 only reachable via a steep trail. I will sometimes use the Italian word 240 because I don't know an exact equivalent in English. For proper nouns I 241 may also use the equivalent word in the local language: *Furcella* or 242 *Jeuf* in [Ladin](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ladin_language), 243 *Joch* in German, *Foržela* in 244 [Venetian](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venetian_language).) 245 246 We start walking again around 12:00, and it is immediately clear that we 247 have made a small miscalculation in planning the route. We thought 248 that the trail to [Gardena Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gardena_Pass) 249 would be straight downhill, but actually we'll have to climb up and then 250 down a couple of tight passes: *Furcella de Ciampei* (2366m) and *Jeuf de 251 Crespëina* (2528m). This is easily going to cancel out the time we gained 252 in the morning. Fortunately, this part of the trail is quite pleasant to 253 walk, if at times steep; the weather is also not too bad, as we only have 254 to bear some light rain. 255 256  257 258 As we are about to reach Gardena Pass (2136m), a strong storm begins. 259 I speed up to take shelter in a hut down at the pass, leaving my dad 260 a few minutes behind. I reach the pass at 14:35. 261 262 ## One hell of a trail 263 264 The outlook for the last part of the day is bleak, to say the least. 265 Thunderstorms are forecast until late in the evening. There is likely 266 going to be a small windows of good weatehr between 16:00 and 17:00, but 267 it is not going to last long enough to reach the Pisciadù hut, where we 268 are going to sleep. We have to choose between leaving immediately under 269 the heavy rain hoping it stops while we are on the way, or waiting for 270 the first wave of the storm to pass but risking it starting again 271 before we reach our destination. 272 273 We choose the former, because it was our best chance to arrive at the 274 hut before it gets dark. Moreover, despite the forecast of thunder and 275 lightning, so far it is just raining heavily, which although unpleasant 276 is not dangerous. 277 278 We leave the pass at around 15:00, under the storm. The ascent is not 279 steep at first. Luckily, as predicted, after about one hour the rain 280 stops. 281 282  284 285 <p align="center"><em>Our last view of Gardena Pass and the Odle group, 286 on the way up to the Pisciadù hut.</em></p> 287 288 But then we reach the infamous trail 666. 289 290  291 292 <p align="center"><em> 293 The beginning of trail 666. This is not a nickname, it is 294 the actual number that the <a href="https://www.cai.it"> 295 Italian Alpine Club</a> gave to this trail. 296 </em></p> 297 298 Actually, this is the easiest of two 299 possible ways to the Pisciadù, the other being the [Ferrata 300 Tridentina](https://www.alta-badia.org/en/leisure-activities/climbing-and-mountaineering/brigata-tridentina-route/). 301 The booklet I am following describes it as "[...] reserved for 302 well-equipped experts. Don't do it with heavy backpacks; don't do it if 303 the weather is not good." We get at 0 out 3, the thought of taking the 304 [via ferrata](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata) does not not 305 even cross our minds. 306 307 So trail 666 it is. This trail is also known as *Setus trail*, or somewhat 308 improperly *Setus via ferrata*. It is extremely steep and it is more a 309 climb than a walk, but it is not a via ferrata. Most maps describe it 310 as *sentiero attrezzato* (equipped trail), as it does have some fixed 311 steel rope and handles where climbers can hang a safety rope. 312 313 We have some simple ropes equipped with a 314 [Carabiner](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carabiner), and we decide to 315 use them. In the following days we would talk with other people who 316 took the same route, and some of them would claim that a rope is not 317 necessary on this trail. I don't care, I was relieved to have my trusty 318 rope, especially considering the bad weather and how tired I was after 319 more than 8 hours of hiking (plus the 9 hours of the previous day). And 320 a safety rope is certainly of no use if kept in the backpack. 321 322  323 324 <p align="center"><em>Trail 666 is really steep.</em></p> 325 326 Overall, the steel rope and the handles are of great help, and although 327 a couple of times I was unsure where to put my feet and I almost slept, 328 I would not consider this trail dangerous, if one is properly equipped. 329 330 The reason I found this trail hard was its *length*. I seriously had some 331 difficulties caused by how tired I was and how sore my muscles were, 332 after two full days of hike. Sometimes I could not complete a step or 333 an arm movement on the first try because I just did not have the enough 334 strength to push or pull up. And the trail just kept going! 335 336 But at 17:30, exhausted but satisfied, we finally reach the top of this 337 climb. The Pisciadù hut (2587m) is just around the corner. 338 339  340 341 <p align="center"><em>My dad at the end of trail 666.</em></p> 342 343 We, our clothes and our boots are still wet from all the rain we caught 344 earlier in the day. Let's hope everything dries up during the night. 345 346 <div class="page-break"></div> 347 348 # Day 3 - A knee-breaking descent 349 350 <p align="center"><em>August 22, 2025</em></p> 351 352 <img src="../img/22-0000-map.png"> 353 <div class="page-break"></div> 354 355 ## The lunar path to Rifugio Boè 356 357 Our clothes are still wet by the time we wake up. The summer nights 358 in the Alps are just too humid. But at least we can finally see some 359 sun. The weather is going to be much better for the next few days. 360 361  362 363 <p align="center"><em>A beatiful view from the Pisciadù hut at dawn.</em></p> 364 365 The beds in the hut were comfortable and we slept well. After a comical 366 incident with my dad's boots - he put on someone else's pair, not knowing 367 that I had brought his into our room, and spent a good 15 minutes 368 searching for them - we are ready to leave the hut at 8:20. 369 370  371 372 <p align="center"><em>The Pisciadù lake and Piz Pisciadù (peak Pisciadù).</em></p> 373 374 The day starts with a short but somewhat steep section of the trail. 375 There are some steel ropes and we use our simple harness once again, 376 although this time we felt we could have done without. 377 378 At 9:45 we reach what is likely the highest point of our route, 379 an anonymous plateau at 2960 meters on sea level. There are higher 380 points on some variations of the route, for example *Punta Penia* in the 381 [Marmolada](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmolada) massif, but in that 382 section we are going to take a lower trail, which is the more classical 383 one according to my guide book. 384 385 At this point, we are completely immersed in a sea of fog. It is quite 386 cold, probably only a couple of degrees above 0°C, and there is some 387 unpleasantly cold breeze. 388 389  390 391 <p align="center"><em>My dad resting on a rock, trying to keep warm.</em></p> 392 393 The fog comes and goes, letting us see the beautiful panorama for a few 394 brief moments. 395 396  397 398 As we walk down from the plateau, my left knee starts hurting. It is 399 not unbearable, and it only hurts when I walk downhill. But it does 400 not bode well for the rest of the day: our next stop is 900m below us, 401 so we are going to walk downhill for most of the day. 402 403 At 10:30 we are on top of the *Antersass* (2906m), a minor peak next to 404 the more prominent [Piz Boè](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piz_Bo%C3%A8) 405 (3152m). We could have walked around the Antersass, but the trail to 406 climb up to the top and then down is actually easier. Going to the top 407 of Piz Boè would have been an interesting detour, but not quite feasible 408 for our 9-day plan. 409 410 We reach [Rifugio Boè](https://www.rifugioboe.it), a recently renovated 411 hut at 2873m, before 11:00. 412 413 <div class="page-break"></div> 414 415  416 417 <p align="center"><em> A view of Piz Boè (peak Boè) from Rifugio Boè (Boè 418 hut). The hut on the top of Piz Boè is, perhaps confusingly, called <a 419 href="https://www.rifugiocapannapizfassa.com/en">Capanna Piz Fassa</a>. 420 </em></p> 421 422 We have now left Sout Tyrol. The rest of the Alta Via 2 route roughly 423 follows the border between the provinces of Trento and Belluno. 424 425 We leave the hut at 11:20. The fog has returned, but it is not as cold 426 as before. 427 428 The trail to *Foržela Pordoi* (2848m) is mostly flat, and very crowded, 429 because of a cable car that makes it accessible even to families with 430 kids. I am not sure I like this kind of over-turism in places that 431 would otherwise be hard to reach. 432 433 ## A painful descent 434 435 As we reach the foržela, the view opens up on a more diverse landscape 436 of grass, rock and forests. After a very short break, we start walking 437 down to the Pordoi Pass. 438 439 The descent is on a long and steep 440 [scree](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scree). I have never liked walking 441 down this kind of trail, but now that my knee is screaming for mercy I am 442 really hating it. I would have rather walked it up twice than down once. 443 444  445 446 <p align="center"><em>The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass.</em></p> 447 448 We reach the [Pordoi Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pordoi_Pass) 449 at 13:30. I need a long break before continuing, so we decide to lay 450 down next to a tiny church just after the pass. Luckily the weather 451 is nice - or not terrible, at least - and we can enjoy a nice view of 452 the surroundings. 453 454  455 456 <p align="center"><em> 457 The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sella_group">Sella group</a> 458 from the Pordoi Pass.</em></p> 459 460  461 462 <p align="center"><em>The view in the direction of <a 463 href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canazei">Cianacei</a>.</em></p> 464 465 <div class="page-break"></div> 466 467 ## Her majesty, the Marmolada 468 469 At 14:10, after about 40 minutes of relax, we are ready to get up. 470 471 We walk up an easy trail among ski paths. Here too there are plenty of 472 turists, and I can't blame them for choosing to walk in such a beautiful 473 place. This is a very common touristic destination both in the Summer 474 and in the Winter. 475 476 We walk past a strange place called [Rifugio 477 Fredarola](https://www.fredarola.it/) (2370m), which looks more like 478 a night club you could find the center of Milan rather than a mountain 479 hut. They are even playing some electronic lounge music. It's hard to 480 describe, but it feels oddly out of place here. But maybe for people 481 coming from a big city this is just what they expect to find here; 482 I guess it is a matter of points of view. 483 484 We continue on a wide, mostly flat trail. For now my knee is is doing 485 fine, but I am a bit scared for the descent that awaits us later today. 486 And finally we have a good view on the Marmolada, the Queen of the 487 Dolomites. 488 489  490 491 <p align="center"><em> 492 The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmolada">Marmolada</a>, 493 the highest mountain in the 494 Dolomites, and its glacier. At the feet of the massif you can 495 see the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fedaia_Lake">Fedaia 496 lake</a>, around which there are a couple of huts, including the one 497 where we are staying tonight. In the distance you can see the <a 498 href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Pelmo">Pelmo</a> and the <a 499 href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Civetta">Civetta</a>. 500 </em></p> 501 502 We stop at [Rifugio Viel Dal Pan](https://www.rifugiovieldalpan.com/) 503 (2432m) for a short break at 15:30. From there, the steep descent towards 504 the Fedaia Pass (2054m) begins. My knee forces me to walk slowly, so by 505 the time we reach the pass it is already 17:30. 506 507 The day is almost concluded, but we have to walk to the opposite side of 508 the lake to [Rifugio Fedaia](https://www.rifugiofedaia.com/). The closer 509 [Rifugio Castiglioni](https://www.rifugiomarmolada.it/), where we stop 510 for a beer, was fully booked when we planned our trip. 511 512  513 514 We walk fast on the old road next to the lake, chatting with a local 515 resident who helps us keep up the pace. We arrive at our hotel at 18:05, 516 after almost 10 hours of hike (including breaks), and we are very happy 517 to find a comfortable room with private bathroom waiting for us. 518 519 This day was longer than we planned, partly because of my knee. But the 520 scenery was beautiful. 521 522 <div class="page-break"></div> 523 524 # Day 4 - The forest and the pastures 525 526 <p align="center"><em>August 23, 2025</em></p> 527 528 <img src="../img/23-0000-map.png"> 529 <div class="page-break"></div> 530 531 ## To Malga Ciapèla and Forca Rossa 532 533 Our fourth day starts at 8:20, with a steep descent on a ski path. 534 My knee stil hurts, and this points I am afraid I may have to 535 deal with it for the rest of the trip. 536 537 At 9:30 we pass Malga Ciapela (1450 meters on sea level) and we start 538 walking up again. Soon we find an enigmatic sign which is apparently 539 trying to communicate that going left or right leads to the same places. 540 541  542 543 <p align="center"><em>The confusing sign.</em></p> 544 545 We spend like 5 minutes figuring this out, and we choose to go left. 546 547 The path is not steep and walking in the forest is enojyable. Since we 548 are at a lower altitude than we have been for most of the other days, 549 it is also much warmer than what we got used to. 550 551  552 553 <p align="center"><em> 554 A view from the forest, on the way up from Malga Ciapèla to Forca Rossa. 555 </em></p> 556 557 The forest soon leaves space to grassy slopes and naked rock. The way 558 up is still pleasant, and we have met almost no other hiker so far - 559 in stark contrast with the previous day. 560 561  562 563 <p align="center"><em> 564 The lower clay-red peak on the center-left of the picture is Forca Rossa, 565 where we are headed. "Rossa" in Italian means "red" - it's nice when things 566 are what their name says they are, isn't it? 567 </em></p> 568 569 We arrive at *Forca Rossa* (2500m) at 13:05. Only in the last few minutes 570 my knee gave me some problems, but it is not so bad that it makes me 571 want to stop. 572 573 Here at the top of this trail there are all the hikers that we did not 574 meet on the way up; they probably came from the other side. There must 575 be some kind of force field blocking tourists from entering the province 576 of Belluno. 577 578  579 580 <p align="center"><em>View from Forca Rossa to the Belluno side.</em></p> 581 582  583 584 <p align="center"><em>My dad and I chilling - quite literally, because of the wind.</em></p> 585 586  587 588 <p align="center"><em>View from Forca Rossa to the Trentino side.</em></p> 589 590 <div class="page-break"></div> 591 592 ## Walking down green pastures 593 594 There is a great view on both sides of this pass, but the wind is cold 595 and strong and we are not keen on staying long. After eating a couple 596 of protein bars and taking many pictures, we start walking down towards 597 Fuciade at 13:40. 598 599  600 601 <p align="center"><em>Walking down to Fuciade.</em></p> 602 603 The way down is quite relaxing. We walk among green pastures, where 604 cows and horses grazed freely. That is, until they are less romantically 605 slaughtered to make [Bresaola](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bresaola). 606 But until then they can enjoy the green grass. 607 608 At 15:00 we reach Fuciade (1982m), a location where many families with 609 kids were relaxing after a meal at [the hut](https://www.fuciade.it/en/). 610 If one wants a more quiet place, a short walk up the trail that we were 611 descending quickly leads away from the crowd. This place gave a sense 612 of tranquillity. 613 614  615 616 <p align="center"><em>Me relaxing in Fuciade while I enjoy a glass of 617 <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shandy#Radler">radler</a> 618 - don't be fooled by the Coca-Cola can.</em></p> 619 620 After a short short break, we move to 621 [Rifugio Flora Alpina](https://floralpina.it) (1800m), that we reach 622 quickly at around 16:00. The place is surrounded by the forest, 623 and the only visible peaks are the 624 [Mulaz](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mulaz) and the 625 [Focobón group](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruppo_del_Focobon). 626 627 <div class="page-break"></div> 628 629  630 631 <p align="center"><em> 632 A spectacular view of the Mulaz and the Focobón group. As the light 633 changed and the clouds moved, the colors changed as well. I spent quite 634 some time just sitting outside the hut, admiring these mountains. 635 </em></p> 636 637 Now, for the first time since we started our journey, we have some time 638 to relax before dinner. We enjoy a sauna and a hot tub. 639 640 <div class="page-break"></div> 641 642 # Day 5 - Entering the Pala group 643 644 <p align="center"><em>August 24, 2025</em></p> 645 646 <img src="../img/24-0000-map.png"> 647 <div class="page-break"></div> 648 649 ## Back on track 650 651  652 653 <p align="center"><em> 654 This photo is the same at the last one of the previous day, 655 but it is one of my best shots. It is also quite fascinating how the light 656 at dawn mixes up all the colors compared to previous day's picture. 657 </em></p> 658 659 After a long sleep, we are ready to leave Flora Alpina at 8:20. Our 660 first checkpoint is the 661 [San Pellegrino Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Pellegrino_Pass), 662 (1918 meters on sea level) which is unfortunately a bit farther away than 663 it would have been if we slept in Fuciade. 664 665 It takes us about one hour to reach the pass. On the way we saw a cow 666 breastfeeding her calf, which was cute. We cross the main road on the pass, 667 and from here we have to walk up on grassy slopes and ski paths. The 668 signs point to a path that is not the one we planned, but the two tracks 669 join shortly afterwards. The ski paths are extremely steep, but wide, 670 so we can easily zig-zag all the way up. 671 672 At 10:30 we reach the *Pale di Gargol* (2218m), a plane that I am not 673 sure why deserves a name. Perhaps the name refers to the whole area 674 which I guess could be described as a rocky meadow. 675 676  677 678 <p align="center"><em> 679 The Pale di Gargol. The term "pala" means "shovel" in Italian, 680 but according to the 681 <a href="https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pale_di_San_Martino#Il_toponimo"> 682 Italian Wikipedia page</a> about the 683 <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pala_group">Pale di San Martino</a> 684 mountains, in the local language it once denoted a grassy slope at the 685 feet of a mountain range. 686 </em></p> 687 688 Once again, the landscape has changed to show us something completely 689 different from that we have seen so far. The constant shifting from rocks, 690 to forest, to grass, to yet other types of rock and any combination of 691 those features is in my opinion one of the most fascinating aspects of 692 Alta Via 2. 693 694  695 696 <p align="center"><em>Walking down to Passo Valles. 697 In the background, the Pale di San Martino.</em></p> 698 699 The trail continues almost flat in this unusual scenery until we 700 descend to [Passo Valles](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passo_Valles) (2032m) 701 at around 11:50. We are now entering the fascinating section of 702 the *Pale di San Martino*, also known in English as the 703 [Pala group](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pala_group), of which 704 the Mulaz and the Focobón group are the northernmost peaks. 705 706 But first we need a break. We stop at a bar on the pass for a coffee 707 and a slice of strüdel. 708 709 <div class="page-break"></div> 710 711 ## Veneggia, Venegiotta and Pass dei Fochet 712 713 We leave the pass at 12:20, and in half an hour we reach Forcella 714 Veneggia (2217m). The view opens up to the wild valley in the south. 715 716  717 718 <p align="center"><em>The view from Forcella Veneggia.</em></p> 719 720 So far, the day has not been particularly challenging. Later on 721 we'll have to pass some difficult sections, but for now we continue 722 on some easy, if narrow, trails. 723 724 Despite the beauty of the place, we don't meet many other hikers. 725 In fact, I think we saw more marmots than people in this part of 726 the route. 727 728  729 730 At around 14:00 we reach *Passo Venegiotta* (2300m), and about 30 minutes 731 later *Passo dei Fochet* (2291m). The weather has been good today so far, 732 but here a strong cold wind starts blowing, and we can feel a few drops 733 of rain. 734 735 <div class="page-break"></div> 736 737 ## Through the rocks, to Rifugio Mulaz 738 739 The landscape changes once again. We are now walking on rocks and gravel. 740 741  742 743 We walk down a scree to around 2175m, before starting to climb up again. 744 It's cold and cloudy, and this part of the trail is a fair bit more 745 difficult than the previous. Nothing particularly hard or dangerous, 746 but we have to pay more attention to where we put our feet. 747 748 The trail abruptly becomes extremely steep, and very demanding on my 749 muscles, which so far had been enjoying a more relaxing day. 750 751  752 753 <p align="center"><em> 754 Some steel ropes help make the climb to Rifugio Mulaz less dangerous. 755 </em></p> 756 757 We reach Rifugio Mulaz (2570m) at 16:40, after a little more 758 than 8 hours from when we left Flora Alpina. Somehow, despite the 759 long walk between them, both these places are in the territory of 760 [Falcade](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falcade). 761 762  763 764 <p align="center"><em>Reaching Rifugio Mulaz</em></p> 765 766 From this hut, the only landscape you can see, in any direction, is naked 767 rock. There is a tiny window from where you can see a valley, but the 768 sight is cut out and the only visible thing is more rocks. Definitely 769 fascinating, although I personally prefer more varied landscapes. 770 771 I'll add a picture on the next day's page, the early morning light 772 was much better. 773 774 Oh and by the way, up here every resource is very scarce. There is 775 no drinkable tap water, and showers cost 8€ for 5 minutes. But I 776 really need one today. 777 778 <div class="page-break"></div> 779 780 # Day 6 - The Farangole trail 781 782 <p align="center"><em>August 25, 2025</em></p> 783 784 <img src="../img/25-0000-map.png"> 785 <div class="page-break"></div> 786 787 ## The starry night 788 789 During the night I woke up and managed to catch a glimpse of a wonderful 790 starry night, the likes of which I had never seen before. 791 792 If you live in a place with a lot of light pollution, like every medium 793 to large city in the World, seeing *a few* stars may already be an unusual 794 experience. At the moment I live in a fairly small city, and we literally 795 never see stars over here. We are lucky if we see Venus once in a while. 796 797 But I grew up in a small village in a sparsely populated area, I *was* 798 used to seeing skies full of stars at night. But this time, at 2500 799 metres above sea level, in the middle of literally nowhere, the sky was 800 soething else. 801 802 I did not manage to take a good picture, sorry. I did not feel like 803 going out in the freezing cold, and my phone's camera is probably not 804 good enough anyway. 805 806 ## The Farangole pass 807 808 At Rifugio Mulaz, the sun rises at 6:40 and sets at around 7:05. 809 In the morning. Luckily for you, I got up early enough to catch 810 the *sunset*. 811 812  813 814 <p align="center"><em> 815 Rifugio Mulaz is closely surrounded by high mountains. This is the 816 only spot where you could see something in the distance. This time 817 of the year, the sun rises from the peaks on the left of this picture, 818 only to hide away behind those on the right a few minutes later. 819 </em></p> 820 821 It's a beautiful day, if only a bit cold. This time we get up earlier than 822 usual and we are ready to leave at 7:15. The main challenge of the day 823 is going to be the *Passo delle Farangole* (2932 meters on sea level), 824 a high mountain pass not far from the hut. Our guide book even suggests 825 a possible alternative route for less confident hikers, but we deemed 826 it within our capabilities. 827 828 After steep, but short, climb to *Forcella Margherita* (2655m) we reach a 829 section of the trail that would not be particularly challenging, if 830 not for the fact that the track is not well marked. 831 832  833 834 <p align="center"><em> 835 The trail after Forcella Margherita, right before the Farangole pass. 836 </em></p> 837 838 In fact, the traces of the hikers who missed the path are *more* visible 839 than the actual trail, likely because said hikers made them more clear 840 by backtracking their steps when they realized they were out of the 841 trail. We do the same a couple of times. 842 843 We soon reach the start of the equipped trail that leads to the pass, 844 but it looks sketchy, so I decide to try climbing up the scree next to 845 it. This was probably a mistake, so we soon turn left and attach our 846 trusty ropes to the steel supports. 847 848  849 850 <p align="center"><em>Climbing up to the Farangole Pass.</em></p> 851 852 The track is very steep, and at times 853 [exposed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_%28heights%29), but the 854 steel ropes and the other supporting material is in a good state. 855 Overall, this famous Farangole Pass is easier than we expected. 856 857  858 859 <p align="center"><em> 860 And down we go. The steel ladder looks like it ends in the void, 861 but actually there is an extra steel beam protruding from the 862 rock, and after that there is only a 60cm drop. 863 </em></p> 864 865 After clearing the pass at around 9:00, we feel satisfied and proud of 866 ourselves. My knee does not even hurt anymore. 867 868 Little did we now that the truly difficult part is the Farangole *trail*, 869 which we'll have to go through later this morning. But for now, in our 870 blissful ignorance, we enjoy the beautiful weather and we take plenty 871 of pictures as we walk down from the pass. 872 873  874 875 <p align="center"><em> 876 The view North, towards the mountains we have just passed. 877 </em></p> 878 879  880 881 <p align="center"><em>An imposing rocky plateau on the South.</em></p> 882 883  884 885 <p align="center"><em>The view to the North-East.</em></p> 886 887 ## The Farangole trail 888 889 As the trail gets tight and very exposed, we realize that maybe 890 *this* is the section the guide book was warning us about. We 891 proceed carefully, attaching our home-made harness when a steel rope 892 is available. Unfortunately, most of the trail is on a narrow ledge 893 surrounded by grass and soft soil, where no piece of supporting material 894 can be fixed. At least it is not wet today. 895 896  897 898 <p align="center"><em> 899 My dad walking on a narrow section of the Farangole trail. 900 </em></p> 901 902  903 904 <p align="center"><em>Another hiker following us on the same trail.</em></p> 905 906 Since this trail is challenging and dangerous, we have to keep 907 constant focus on our steps and the way ahead of us. We have little 908 time to relax and enjoy the beautiful view, and we take much fewer 909 pictures than we did earlier. 910 911  912 913 <p align="center"><em> 914 The view from the last part of the Farangole trail, towards 915 the East. Soon we'll have to walk down to the dry bed of the 916 river you can see at the bottom of this picture. The tiny line 917 on the hill on the left is the Farangole trail. 918 </em></p> 919 920 At 12:30 we reach the bottom of *Valgrande* (*Pian dei Cantoni*, 2310m). 921 922 ## To Rifugio Rosetta and beyond 923 924 The way up to Rifugio Rosetta is steep, but short. The previous 925 part was not physically demanding, but it was dangerous and 926 technically fairly challenging. I am relieved that now I can just 927 let my legs bring me up, and I reach the hut at 13:05. 928 929  930 931 <p align="center"><em>Rifugio Rosetta</em></p> 932 933 [Rifugio Rosetta](https://www.rifugiorosetta.it) (2581m) is easily 934 reachable with a cable car, and because of this it is very crowded, 935 similarly to the area around Piz Boè that we passed through on 936 [day 3](../day3). 937 938 This is a good time for a break, so we decide to sit down, drink 939 a glass of [skiwasser](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skiwasser), and 940 eat another slice of strüdel. Yes, we ate a lot of those. The one 941 they serve in this hut is particularly good, with plenty of fresh 942 fruit and pine nuts. 943 944 We get up and leave the hut at 14:05. The weather gets cold and foggy, 945 but luckily for us it won't last long. Our plan is to walk down until 946 *Col de le Fede* (2200m) and then up again to *Pass dei Ball* (2433m). 947 948 The way down is slow and tedious, and my knee starts hurting again. 949 950  951 952 <p align="center"><em>Walking down from Rifugio Rosetta.</em></p> 953 954 The way up to the pass is steep, and there is a long section equipped 955 with a steel rope. But the equipped part is actually very easy compared 956 to other similar trails that we have walked this morning and in the 957 previous days. 958 959  960 961 <p align="center"><em>My dad walking on this equipped section.</em></p> 962 963 After reaching Pass dei Ball, we walk down slowly to 964 [Rifugio Pradidali](https://www.rifugiopradidali.com/eng/Home.html) 965 (2278m), which we reach at 17:05. 966 967 Later we would discover that there is an alternative route to 968 go from Rosetta to Pradidali, which starts by walking up to the 969 East and skips both the slow and tedious descent and the 970 more steep section before Pass dei Ball. This alternative path was 971 probably slightly easier, but it would not have saved us that much 972 time and effort. 973 974 The Pradidali is a nice hut, but there is no phone signal nor WiFi. 975 The showers are still expensive, and when it is my turn the water boiler 976 has run out of gas, and I can either wait for it to be replaced or do a 977 freezing cold shower. I don't want to wait, so arctic shower here I come! 978 979 <div class="page-break"></div> 980 981 # Day 7 - The longest day 982 983 <p align="center"><em>August 26, 2025</em></p> 984 985 <img src="../img/26-0000-map.png"> 986 <div class="page-break"></div> 987 988 ## A relaxing stroll in Val Canali 989 990 Last night we had to check our maps, because we were not sure which route 991 we would be going, according to our plan. We did not remember that the 992 guide book suggested two possible alternatives to reach the next hut, 993 Rifugio Treviso: a higher mountain trail, with some challenging sections, 994 and an easier one that starts by walking down the *Val Canali*, a valley 995 that leads out of the Pala group and into the *Vette Feltrine* mountain 996 range. Our plan was to follow the easier route, and we decided to stick 997 to it. 998 999 We leave the Pradidali at 7:30. 1000 1001  1002 1003 <p align="center"><em> 1004 Rifugio Pradidali and a mountain behind it, in a beautiful sunny morning. 1005 Maybe I should have taken notes of the names of the peaks I photographed. 1006 Oh well, too late now. 1007 </em></p> 1008 1009  1010 1011 <p align="center"><em>Val Canali.</em></p> 1012 1013 The descent is quite diverse, alternating between rocks, gravel, grass 1014 and forest. There are some steel ropes that seem oddly placed in a very 1015 simple section, but they would probably be useful in a rainy day. 1016 1017  1018 1019 <p align="center"><em> 1020 Walking down an easy trail, in a typical Dolomite landscape. 1021 </em></p> 1022 1023 At 9:50 we reach the ruins of *malga Pradidali* (1428 meters on sea level). 1024 So far it has been a nice sunny day, and the walk has been easy. But the 1025 end of the day will be very different. 1026 1027  1028 1029 <p align="center"><em> 1030 The ruins of malga Pradidali. A "malga" is a building where people 1031 temporarily lived in the Summer while their livestock grazed the high 1032 mountain pastures that surround it. Malga Antersasc, that we passed by on 1033 <a href="../day1">day one</a>, is another example. Many malgas are still 1034 in use nowadays, and they often sell locally-produced dairy products, 1035 but unfortunately for us we only found ruins so far. 1036 </em></p> 1037 1038 The trail continues in the forest, and at 10:35 we pass by *malga 1039 Canali* (1307m). This one *was* in use, and we could have stopped to 1040 eat something if we wanted, but we did not. 1041 1042  1043 1044 <p align="center"><em>The pastures behind malga Canali.</em></p> 1045 1046 We now have to walk up to reach Rifugio Treviso (1631m). The trail in 1047 the forest becomes steep, but it does not last long. We reach the hut 1048 at 11:40, and it is time for a break. 1049 1050  1051 1052 <div class="page-break"></div> 1053 1054 ## The return of the clouds 1055 1056 After taking a few pictures and a slice of a typical alpine dessert (I'll 1057 let you guess which one), we are ready to start walking again at 12:30. 1058 1059 Our next checkpoint is *forcella d'Oltro* (2094m). My knee has been 1060 good so far, but I still try not to put too much weight on it. The road 1061 up to the forcella is steep, and we are tired. We have done nothing but 1062 walking steep trails for more than a week at this point. We walk slowly, 1063 but steadily. 1064 1065  1066 1067 <p align="center"><em>The forested slopes on the North-West.</em></p> 1068 1069 On our way up, we meet a couple walking down from the forcella. They 1070 tell us that they could see nothing at all on the other side, because 1071 of the fog and the clouds. We are not sure if we should take them 1072 literally, because it is such a sunny day on this side. But indeed, 1073 when we reach the tight pass at 14:30, we can see it with out own eyes. 1074 1075  1076 1077 <p align="center"><em>The fog on the other side of forcella d'Oltro.</em></p> 1078 1079  1080 1081 <p align="center"><em> 1082 The side where we came from, in contrast, is perfectly sunny. 1083 </em></p> 1084 1085 We need another short break, but we don't want to stay here for 1086 too long. As often happens in these high passes, 1087 the wind is strong and chilling. 1088 1089 We thought this would be the last place above 2000 meters of the whole 1090 trip. Or at the very least for the day, considering that all that was 1091 left was walking down to the 1092 [Cereda Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cereda_Pass). 1093 But we were not exactly right. 1094 1095 ## Down? Not so fast, cowboy 1096 1097 The descent to the Cereda Pass starts very steep, and we quickly loose 1098 about 200 meters of altitude. But then the trail starts going up again, 1099 and slowly but surely we walk up, and up, and up. The road is not steep, 1100 but we are walking on a tight ledge on a grassy slope that requires us 1101 to focus. 1102 1103  1104 1105 <p align="center"><em> 1106 Me on this tight path that, for whatever reason, is leading back 1107 up instead of down to Pass Cereda. As you can see, I am not amused. 1108 </em></p> 1109 1110 Only after we reach the altitude of 2150m do we start going down, 1111 but this time very slowly. We cannot see very far due to the fog, 1112 and in any case we would still be hyper-focused on our steps. 1113 But at least there are some interesting rock formations close to 1114 us that are worth admiring. 1115 1116  1117 1118 <p align="center"><em>Some interesting rock formations close to the trail.</em></p> 1119 1120  1121 1122 <p align="center"><em>A tree growing on top of a naked rock.</em></p> 1123 1124 The trail gradually becomes less exposed, but more steep. My knee starts 1125 hurting once again, but I am not surprised, considering how long we have 1126 been walking since this morning. 1127 1128 After what feels like an eternity of wandering through the fog, 1129 we reach the hotel at the Cereda Pass (1361m) at 18:15. After 1130 almost 11 hours of walk, my feet and my knees are begging for mercy. 1131 1132  1133 1134 <p align="center"><em>The pastures around the Cereda Pass.</em></p> 1135 1136 We have a private room at [Rifugio 1137 Cereda](https://www.rifugiocereda.com/en/), where 1138 we can have a shower, and we rest well. The food is 1139 also amazing: I have what is one of the best plates of 1140 [*käsespätzle*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K%C3%A4sesp%C3%A4tzle) 1141 of my life. By the way, over here the spätzle are prepared with spinach 1142 and they are green, not white; I think they do the same in Tyrol, but 1143 definitely not in Germany. 1144 1145 Unfortunately, the weather forecasts for the next day are not as good 1146 as our dinner. 1147 1148 <div class="page-break"></div> 1149 1150 # Day 8 - The Troi dei Caserin 1151 1152 <p align="center"><em>August 27, 2025</em></p> 1153 1154 <img src="../img/27-0000-map.png"> 1155 <div class="page-break"></div> 1156 1157 ## A damp morning 1158 1159 Today the final part of Alta Via 2 begins. We are entering the *Vette 1160 Feltrine*, a part that is perhaps less well-known by tourists, but no 1161 less beautiful. The trails we'll have to walk are going to be narrow, 1162 often steep. 1163 1164 The weather forecasts for the day are not great, but we 1165 should reach [Rifugio Boz](https://www.rifugioboz.it/) (1718 meters 1166 on sea level) before it starts raining. For now there is just a thick fog, 1167 and the weather is unpleasantly hot and humid. 1168 1169  1170 1171 <p align="center"><em>Our last sight of Rifugio Cereda and the Pala Group.</em></p> 1172 1173 We leave at 7:45. At first we walk on a secondary paved road, then on 1174 a dirt road. Both my guide booklet and the signs try to make us walk 1175 downhill towards the nearby villages of Matiuz and Padreterno, but there 1176 is a clearly faster road that stays in the forest and leads to the 1177 start of the actual trail. 1178 1179  1180 1181 <p align="center"><em> 1182 The top sign is marked as "AV2", for Alta Via 2. There is a gap that 1183 was probably filled by a sign pointing left, which is the way we took. 1184 I suspect someone - perhaps the local forest authorities - removed 1185 the sign because they did not want people to go that way, but I 1186 can't imagine why. Or perhaps the sign simply fell off. 1187 </em></p> 1188 1189 After about one hour of walk in the forest, the actual trail begins. 1190 The humidity is very intense, still unpleasant. Unfortunately this also 1191 means that the pictures of the day are very... foggy. 1192 1193  1194 1195 <p align="center"><em>The valley behind us, in the fog.</em></p> 1196 1197 <div class="page-break"></div> 1198 1199 ## L'Intaiàda 1200 1201 The trail becomes steep, and then extremely steep. We walk along 1202 a vertical wall of granite, where a narrow passage is carved out. 1203 Indeed, this part of the trail is called *L'Intaiàda*, which 1204 can be roughly translated as *The Carved-Out*. 1205 1206  1207 1208 <p align="center"><em>Admittedly not the best picture of L'Intaiàda.</em></p> 1209 1210 The trail continues, narrow and exposed, but well equipped with some 1211 sturdy metal ropes where needed. It requires some attention, but I don't 1212 find it scary or particularly difficult; there is always some rock or 1213 support piece I can hang on to rest while I think about the next steps. 1214 1215  1216 1217 <p align="center"><em>Another section of L'Intaiàda.</em></p> 1218 1219  1220 1221 The trail continues very steep, and at 12:05 we reach the *Pass del 1222 Comedon* (2130m). 1223 1224  1225 1226 <p align="center"><em>View from the pass.</em></p> 1227 1228 <div class="page-break"></div> 1229 1230 ## A quick break at Bivacco Feltre 1231 1232 From the pass we walk down an extremely steep trail, initially very 1233 exposed, then less scary. 1234 1235 My left knee has been doing well so far, but suddently I feel an acute 1236 sting of pain that almost makes loose my balance. This is not good. It 1237 is also very different from the constant, mild to moderate pain that I 1238 have felt when walking downhill in the past few days. But I push through, 1239 slowly and steadily. 1240 1241 The fog becomes even thicker, at times we can't see much farther than 1242 20-30 meters. 1243 1244  1245 1246 <p align="center"><em>We are close to Bivacco Feltre, but we can't see it.</em></p> 1247 1248 For a brief moment I catch a glimpse of *Bivacco Feltre* (1930m), a 1249 [sheet metal shelter](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bivouac_shelter) 1250 where hikers can wait for the bad weather to subside, or spend the night 1251 in case of need. 1252 1253  1254 1255 <p align="center"><em>Bivacco Feltre.</em></p> 1256 1257 We reach the bivouac at 13:05, and we decide to take a break. We eat 1258 a protein bar and refill our water bottles. Unfortunately, we can see 1259 literally nothing besides the meadow around us, and the fog. 1260 1261  1262 1263 <p align="center"><em> 1264 Our view from Bivacco Feltre. The guide book describes the place 1265 as "pleasant and majestic". I guess I'll have to trust them on this one. 1266 </em></p> 1267 1268 We need some rest, but we don't want to wait for too long. The journey 1269 is still long, and if we don't reach our destination before 17:00 we 1270 will probably be caught by the forecasted thunderstorm. We leave the 1271 bivouac at 13:30. 1272 1273 ## The Troi dei Caserin 1274 1275 From the shelter we walk down, loosing about 200 or 300 meters of 1276 altitude. We quickly gain them back, as the trail continues upwards. 1277 The fog is still very thick, we can't see further than 10m. 1278 1279 The trail so far is not particuarly hard, but there are some interesting 1280 passages where we have to cross some waterfalls and some small water 1281 streams. Or maybe I found them interesting only because my bad knee 1282 prevented me from pushing with my left leg and I had to make some complex 1283 alternative manouvers. 1284 1285  1286 1287 At 14:50 we reach *Col dei Bech* (1960m), which means *Ibex' hill*. 1288 And in fact, just after Cold dei Bech, in one of the rare moments when 1289 the fog let us see at more than 15 meters, we did see a small family 1290 of chamois. Ok, not quite ibex, but close enough. Judging from the 1291 quantity of warm shit that we saw on the trail, they had probably walked 1292 right ahead of us for a while. 1293 1294 We continue on this trail that becomes increasingly narrow and exposed, 1295 difficult in some sections. We are on the *Troi dei Caserin* ("the 1296 Caserins' trail"). 1297 1298  1299 1300 There are some steel ropes in the most dangerous parts, but not for 1301 long: soon we reach a grassy section, and the trail becomes ever 1302 more narrow. On our left, the emptiness of a hundred-meters free fall is 1303 hidden by the fog. My aching knee makes everything even more challenging. 1304 1305 We did not take many pictures of this part of the journey, mainly because 1306 we were focusing on keeping our feet on the ground. Apparently, my dad 1307 and I walked this same trail some 15 years ago, when it was covered in 1308 half a meter of snow. And I say apparently because, even though we both 1309 remember that trip quite well, we have no recollection of taking such a 1310 dangerous path in those conditions. But there is no alternative road, 1311 so we must have done it... somehow. 1312 1313 At 16:45 we reach *Pass de Mura* (1867m). The view opens up, but we 1314 can't quite see our destination yet. 1315 1316  1317 1318 <p align="center"><em> 1319 You see the tiny building down there? It is not Rifugio 1320 Boz, but Malga Neva. Luckily for us, the Rifugio is closer than that. 1321 </em></p> 1322 1323 We walk down from the pass and we reach [Rifugio 1324 Boz](https://www.rifugioboz.it/) (1718m) at 17:05. Just as we walk 1325 through the door, a strong storm begins. 1326 1327 <div class="page-break"></div> 1328 1329 ## At Rifugio Boz 1330 1331 We are tired, hungry and our muscles are sore. As we check in, the hut 1332 manager asks us if we are walking the Alta Via. We respond that yes, 1333 we are, and tomorrow we will be going all the way to [Rifugio Dal 1334 Piaz](https://www.rifugiodalpiaz.com), and we'll finally walk down 1335 victorious to Croce d'Aune in the evening. 1336 1337 "Are you sure about that?" - she says. 1338 1339 "Why?" - we ask, not sure if she was joking or not. 1340 1341 "Have you seen the weather forecast?" 1342 1343 <div class="page-break"></div> 1344 1345 # Day 9 - Cutting it short 1346 1347 <p align="center"><em>August 28, 2025</em></p> 1348 1349 <img src="../img/28-0000-map.png"> 1350 <div class="page-break"></div> 1351 1352 ## An inevitable decision 1353 1354 The last leg of the Alta Via 2 is long, challenging and dangerous. 1355 Most of the trail is on top of a ridge, exposed on both sides, and strong 1356 winds are frequent. 1357 1358 And in the afternoon of August 28, the last day of our Alta Via 2, there 1359 are going to be strong thunderstorms. The manager at Rifugio Boz told 1360 us "I have walked this trail many times, but with a weather like this, 1361 I would never dare". 1362 1363 We are prepared and experienced, but we are powerless against the forces 1364 of nature. We give up. On August 28, the last day of our Alta Via 2, 1365 we are not going to Rifugio Dal Piaz, or to Croce d'Aune. We are going 1366 down a safer trail, in the forest of the 1367 [*Val Canzoi*](https://www.dolomitipark.it/en/visiting-the-park/itineraries/on-foot/nature-trails/val-di-canzoi/), 1368 and we are going to conclude our adventure half a day earlier. 1369 1370 <div class="page-break"></div> 1371 1372 ## From Rifugio Boz to Malga Alvis 1373 1374  1375 1376 <p align="center"><em>Rifugio Boz with the 1377 <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sass_de_Mura">Sass de Mura</a> 1378 in the background.</em></p> 1379 1380 We leave the hut at 7:35. The are two ways to walk down to Val Canzoi: 1381 either we climb up to *Passo Alvis*, or to *Passo Finestra*. We 1382 choose the former, as the trail that comes down from Passo Alvis 1383 ends close to a bar where we can wait for someone to pick us up. 1384 1385  1386 1387 <p align="center"><em>We walk together with other 3 hikers to Passo Alvis. 1388 We are not the only ones who decided to cut the Alta Via short.</em></p> 1389 1390 The weather is not bad for now. There are clouds, but it is not raining. 1391 But the afternoon storm is going to be massive. 1392 1393 At 7:55 we are up to Passo Alvis (1880 meters on sea level). From there, 1394 we only need to go down another 1000 meters. We can't quite see the 1395 bottom of the valley, but we do see the back of the main mountains that 1396 are also visible from our home. 1397 1398  1399 1400 <p align="center"><em>The view from Passo Alvis. In the back, partly hidden by the 1401 clouds, you can see the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pizzocco"> 1402 Pizzocco</a>, 1403 the main mountain that rises above our home town. We are coming home!</em></p> 1404 1405 We walk down from the pass. The descent starts steep, but the trail is 1406 not difficult. We see one last family of chamoix, running away from us. 1407 1408 At 8:40 we reach Malga Alvis (1573m). 1409 1410  1411 1412 <p align="center"><em>Malga Alvis.</em></p> 1413 1414 It starts raining. We take shelter inside the malga. The building 1415 is not used for its original purpose anymore, but it is maintained 1416 by the local natural park administration as a bivouac for hikers. 1417 Some 15 years ago, in a cold late April, my dad and I spent the night 1418 here before continuing our hike the following day. 1419 1420 <div class="page-break"></div> 1421 1422 ## Down to the valley, one last time 1423 1424 Luckily the rain stops soon, and the five of us can continue our march. 1425 The *Lago della Stua* is now visible. 1426 1427  1428 1429 <p align="center"><em>Lago della Stua in Val Canzoi.</em></p> 1430 1431 We keep going down. My knee starts hurting again, but we are almost there. 1432 Overall I enjoyed this last part of the journey. The trail in this 1433 mid-mountain forest is exactly the kind of road that I used to walk a 1434 lot years ago, when I frequently hiked around these mountains. 1435 1436 Our adventure ends at 10:40, on the dam of the lake. 1437 1438  1439 1440 We reach the nearby bar, we sit down, we drink a 1441 [spritz](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spritz_(cocktail)). 1442 1443 <div class="page-break"></div> 1444 1445 # After the hike 1446 1447 ## Back home 1448 1449 *August 28, 2025* 1450 1451 My dad's cousin came to pick us up. As we got into the car, the 1452 storm started. From there, it kept raining the whole afternoon. Not 1453 coninuously, it came and went, but when it was there it was 1454 very strong. The bad weather continued for a couple of days. 1455 1456 We made a good call ending our trip early. 1457 1458 <div class="page-break"></div> 1459 1460 ## Celebration 1461 1462 *August 29, 2025* 1463 1464 Some of the people we met along the way arrived in Feltre on the next 1465 day. Like use, they could not properly finish the Alta Via, as the bad 1466 weather caught them when they arrived at Passo Cereda. 1467 1468 We decided to meet for a dinner all together at [Birreria 1469 Pedavena](https://www.labirreriapedavena.it/), the largest brewery in 1470 Italy, which is conveniently located between Croce d'Aune and Feltre. In 1471 fact, if you walk Alta Via 2 all the way to Feltre, you pass right in 1472 front of the Birreria. 1473 1474  1475 1476 <div class="page-break"></div> 1477 1478 ## Award 1479 1480 *September 2, 2025* 1481 1482 Upon completing Alta Via 2, hikers can receive an official pin. It is 1483 awarded by the tourist office in Feltre, where they can also 1484 add their name to the book of "finishers". 1485 1486 As you know, we did not complete the full Alta Via. But since Feltre is 1487 just around the corner, we thought why not go there and ask? In the end, 1488 the exact route of Alta Via 2 is not set in stone. 1489 1490 It turns out that, according to the guidelines laid out by the Italian 1491 Alpine Club, reaching Rifugio Boz is enough to officially complete Alta 1492 Via 2 and be called a finisher! 1493 1494  1495 1496 Indeed, they know that the last leg of the hike is often skipped due to 1497 bad weather. Ending the journey at Passo Cereda, however, is not enough. 1498 1499 So now we also have some official recognition for our effort. Cool! 1500 1501 <div class="page-break"></div> 1502 1503 ## Farewell to the mountains 1504 1505 *September 3, 2025* 1506 1507 After the hike I spent a few days at home with my family. But now it is 1508 time to go back to the flat lands, where I have been living for the past 1509 few years. 1510 1511 My flight back to Amsterdam, as it sometimes does, flew right over the 1512 Dolomites. I was able to recognize not only my home town, but also many of 1513 the mountains and valleys my dad and I walked through just a week earlier. 1514 1515 