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      1 # Alta Via 2
      2 
      3 ![A picture of me walking on the Farangole trail](../img/25-1033-farangole.jpg)
      4 
      5 [Alta Via 2](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alta_Via_2) is high mountain
      6 route in the [Dolomites](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolomites). It goes
      7 from [Brixen](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brixen), in South Tyrol, to
      8 [Feltre](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feltre), the city where I was born.
      9 With its 180km of lenght and around 10000 meters of altitude gain, it
     10 requires multiple days to complete, with most guides suggesting a 12-
     11 or 13-day itinerary.
     12 
     13 In August 2025, my father and I completed this route, walking for
     14 9 consecutive days. In these pages I am going to tell you about
     15 this adventure, and share some of the pictures that we took.
     16 If you are interested in hiking similar routes, you may find
     17 some useful information here, but I am not aiming at writing a
     18 technical description of the hike.
     19 
     20 * [Preparation](../preparation)
     21 * [Day 1 - The Odles in the rain](../day1)
     22 * [Day 2 - Trail 666](../day2)
     23 * [Day 3 - A knee-breaking descent](../day3)
     24 * [Day 4 - The forest and the pastures](../day4)
     25 * [Day 5 - Entering the Pala group](../day5)
     26 * [Day 6 - The Farangole trail](../day6)
     27 * [Day 7 - The longest day](../day7)
     28 * [Day 8 - The Troi dei Caserin](../day8)
     29 * [Day 9 - Cutting it short](../day9)
     30 * [After the hike](../after)
     31 
     32 You can view these pages at
     33 [https://sebastiano.tronto.net/av2](https://sebastiano.tronto.net/av2).
     34 
     35 <div class="page-break"></div>
     36 
     37 # Day 1 - The Odles in the rain
     38 
     39 <p align="center"><em>August 20, 2025</em></p>
     40 
     41 <img src="../img/20-0000-map.png">
     42 <div class="page-break"></div>
     43 
     44 ## The road to Kreutztal
     45 
     46 Our first day starts quite early, as we wake up at 5:15. My uncle is
     47 giving us a car ride to Kreutztal, which will take a little more than
     48 3 hours. We leave at 5:55.
     49 
     50 We drive up the Cordevole valley, a road that reminds me of the
     51 many hikes I used to do in the Dolomites, usually starting from the
     52 [Falzarego pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falzarego_Pass),
     53 hiking around the [Tofane](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tofane),
     54 the [Cinque Torri](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinque_Torri),
     55 [Averau](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Averau) and others.
     56 But we are not going there this time.
     57 
     58 The road itself is quite scenic.  Sorry, I did not
     59 take any pictures pictures.  Going North, we drive
     60 through popular touristic destinations like Arabba and
     61 [Corvara](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corvara%2C_South_Tyrol).
     62 But these small towns leave a weird impression on me, as they are made
     63 up mostly of hotels and a few restaurants and bars - all closed because
     64 it is too early for turists to wake up. Are these places just holiday
     65 resorts now?
     66 
     67 Just before we reach Kreutztal, our starting point, it starts raining.
     68 
     69 <div class="page-break"></div>
     70 
     71 ## The hike begins
     72 
     73 ![My dad and I, ready to start hiking](../img/20-0924-kreutztal.jpg)
     74 
     75 <p align="center"><em>My dad and I, ready to start hiking.</em></p>
     76 
     77 By the time we reach Kreutztal (2000 meters on sea level), park the car
     78 and put on our rain clothes, it is already 9:30. And this is going to
     79 be one of the longest days, at least according to our estimates.
     80 
     81 The [Plosehütte](https://www.plosehuette.com/en/) (2447m) is not
     82 far, and we reach it pretty quickly. Unfortunately, it is closed for
     83 renovations, and we can't even get close enough to take a picture of
     84 our first checkpoint.
     85 
     86 At least the view from up there is... something.
     87 
     88 ![The Odles, surrounded by clouds](../img/20-1033-odles-clouds.jpg)
     89 
     90 <p align="center"><em>The <a
     91 href="https://www.val-gardena.com/en/dolomites/geisler-mountain-group">Odles</a>
     92 surrounded by clouds.</em></p>
     93 
     94 The clouds came and went, but this is pretty much the clearest the
     95 skies have been the whole morning. Besides the cold and the rain being
     96 unpleasant, the low visibility gave us some technical difficulties:
     97 right after passing by the hut, we found ourselves on a grassy slope and
     98 we lost the track. In normal conditions we would have been able to look
     99 out for the next trail marking, but with this thick fog we were forced
    100 to double check our GPS and our maps.
    101 
    102 ## Down through the forest, then up again
    103 
    104 Luckily, it did not take us long to find the right way, and we kept
    105 descending in a [larch](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Larch) forest.
    106 
    107 ![Trail in the forest](../img/20-1150-forest.jpg)
    108 
    109 <p align="center"><em>A trail in a forest between Plosehütte and
    110 Schlüterhütte - Rifugio Genova.</em></p>
    111 
    112 The descent is pleasant. We even manage to catch some break from the
    113 heavy rain, and take a few more pictures of the Odles.
    114 
    115 ![Another picture of the Odles](../img/20-1211-odles.jpg)
    116 
    117 We reach the Rodella Pass (1867m) at around 13:00,
    118 and from there we walk up to [Schlüterhutte - Rifugio
    119 Genova](https://www.schlueterhuette.com/en/) (2297m). I did not take
    120 many notes of this part of the journey, there was too much rain for me
    121 to take out my journal and write.
    122 
    123 As the trail is crossed by a stream of water, we have to pass a short
    124 challenging section, where we are forced to climb on the wet rock.
    125 The climb itself is not hard, but the trail is not clearly marked at
    126 that point, which left us wondering if we were doing the right thing.
    127 
    128 We are then blocked by a more difficult trail feature: cows.
    129 
    130 ![Cows blocking the road](../img/20-1324-cows.jpg)
    131 
    132 <p align="center"><em>Cows are blocking the road.  Yes, that little gap is
    133 the only way forward.</em></p>
    134 
    135 After overcoming this zoological obstacle, we reached the
    136 Schlüterhütte - Rifugio Genova at 16:00 and we stop for a slice of
    137 [*Apfelstrudel*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_strudel).
    138 
    139 ![Rifugio Genova in the fog](../img/20-1603-schluterhutte.jpg)
    140 
    141 <p align="center"><em>Rifugio Genova - Schlüterhütte in the fog.</em></p>
    142 
    143 <div class="page-break"></div>
    144 
    145 ## The long descent to the village
    146 
    147 At 6 hours and 30 minutes of hiking, this would have been a good first
    148 day.  But unfortunately we cannot stop here. At 16:30 we begin the long
    149 descent towards Lungiarü (1398m).
    150 
    151 ![Me pointing down towards the fog](../img/20-1703-descent.jpg)
    152 
    153 <p align="center"><em>Down there, that's where we have to go. Do you see
    154 it? Me neither.</em></p>
    155 
    156 We walk for two hours in the rain and the fog before reaching the
    157 village. Two hours may not sound like much, but it felt like an eternity.
    158 
    159 Just before the village, we pass by a place called
    160 [*Val di Morins*](https://www.alta-badia.org/en/highlights/sights/val-di-morins-mill-valley/),
    161 which means "Mill Valley" in Ladin.
    162 
    163 ![A watermill](../img/20-1816-mill.jpg)
    164 <p align="center"><em>
    165 A watermill. In this area it was common to build half-pipes
    166 with larch trunks to lead the water to the mill.
    167 </em></p>
    168 
    169 The village of Lungiarü, in [Val
    170 Badia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Val_Badia), is quite nice, but we
    171 have no energy left for sightseeing. All we can do before falling asleep
    172 is a shower, dinner, and trying to dry our clothes for the next day.
    173 
    174 <div class="page-break"></div>
    175 
    176 # Day 2 - Trail 666
    177 
    178 <p align="center"><em>August 21, 2025</em></p>
    179 
    180 <img src="../img/21-0000-map.png">
    181 <div class="page-break"></div>
    182 
    183 ## The beginning of a long day
    184 
    185 According to our plan, this second day is going to be the toughest.
    186 Our planned route consists of more than 1700m of altitude gain, which
    187 would already be quite a long hike for a single day, leave alone for one
    188 out of 9 consecutive days of walking. Moreover, the weather forecasts
    189 for the day are not good - there is a chance of thunderstorms in the
    190 afternoon.
    191 
    192 Luckily we find someone willing to give us a car ride from our B&B to
    193 the edge of the village, saving us about one hour of walk. We start
    194 walking at around 8:30.
    195 
    196 The first part of the trail is not very steep, and the weather is
    197 not too bad either. We even manage to see some mountains!
    198 
    199 ![Some mountains](../img/21-0900-up.jpg)
    200 
    201 <p align="center"><em>The Puez-Odle group.</em></p>
    202 
    203 In about an hour we reach *malga Antersasc* (2084m on sea
    204 level).  Around this small abandoned building we see a few
    205 [chamois](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamois) and some very fat
    206 [marmots](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmot) - seriously, those
    207 things were huge! Unfortunately all the pictures I took were terrible,
    208 you need some pretty good camera to catch them from a distance.
    209 
    210 ![Me looking a tree](../img/21-0923-tree.jpg)
    211 
    212 <p align="center"><em>
    213 Sorry for the lack of marmot pictures. Here
    214 is a shot of myself staring at a tree growing on top of a rock instead.
    215 </em></p>
    216 
    217 After a short break, we get back on the trail and start walking towards
    218 the [Puez hut](https://www.rifugiopuez.it/en/).  We could already tell
    219 from the map that the trail up to *forcella Puez* (2500m), before the
    220 hut, was going to be very steep. However, we found it to be very well
    221 maintained, which made it easier than we expected.
    222 
    223 ![The trail to forcella Puez](../img/21-1103-forcella-puez.jpg)
    224 
    225 <p align="center"><em>
    226 The trail up to forcella Puez is reinforced with some trunks that
    227 turn it almost into a staircase.</em></p>
    228 
    229 Unfortunately, as we walked up, the weather got much worse.
    230 We were forced to wear all our rain clothes again, including gloves.
    231 
    232 We reach the Puez hut (2447m) at 11:20, earlier than planned. We take
    233 some time to rest and try to dry up from the rain; I change my socks
    234 and t-shirt, which definitely helps.
    235 
    236 ## The forgotten Forcellas
    237 
    238 (*Forcella* is an Italian term that denotes a tight mountain pass, usually
    239 only reachable via a steep trail. I will sometimes use the Italian word
    240 because I don't know an exact equivalent in English. For proper nouns I
    241 may also use the equivalent word in the local language: *Furcella* or
    242 *Jeuf* in [Ladin](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ladin_language),
    243 *Joch* in German, *Foržela* in
    244 [Venetian](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venetian_language).)
    245 
    246 We start walking again around 12:00, and it is immediately clear that we
    247 have made a small miscalculation in planning the route. We thought
    248 that the trail to [Gardena Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gardena_Pass)
    249 would be straight downhill, but actually we'll have to climb up and then
    250 down a couple of tight passes: *Furcella de Ciampei* (2366m) and *Jeuf de
    251 Crespëina* (2528m). This is easily going to cancel out the time we gained
    252 in the morning. Fortunately, this part of the trail is quite pleasant to
    253 walk, if at times steep; the weather is also not too bad, as we only have
    254 to bear some light rain.
    255 
    256 ![Part of the road to Gardena Pass](../img/21-1347-puez-to-gardena.jpg)
    257 
    258 As we are about to reach Gardena Pass (2136m), a strong storm begins.
    259 I speed up to take shelter in a hut down at the pass, leaving my dad
    260 a few minutes behind. I reach the pass at 14:35.
    261 
    262 ## One hell of a trail
    263 
    264 The outlook for the last part of the day is bleak, to say the least.
    265 Thunderstorms are forecast until late in the evening. There is likely
    266 going to be a small windows of good weatehr between 16:00 and 17:00, but
    267 it is not going to last long enough to reach the Pisciadù hut, where we
    268 are going to sleep. We have to choose between leaving immediately under
    269 the heavy rain hoping it stops while we are on the way, or waiting for
    270 the first wave of the storm to pass but risking it starting again
    271 before we reach our destination.
    272 
    273 We choose the former, because it was our best chance to arrive at the
    274 hut before it gets dark. Moreover, despite the forecast of thunder and
    275 lightning, so far it is just raining heavily, which although unpleasant
    276 is not dangerous.
    277 
    278 We leave the pass at around 15:00, under the storm. The ascent is not
    279 steep at first.  Luckily, as predicted, after about one hour the rain
    280 stops.
    281 
    282 ![A view of the Odles from the Gardena Pass
    283 side](../img/21-1559-gardena.jpg)
    284 
    285 <p align="center"><em>Our last view of Gardena Pass and the Odle group,
    286 on the way up to the Pisciadù hut.</em></p>
    287 
    288 But then we reach the infamous trail 666.
    289 
    290 ![The beginning of trail 666](../img/21-1600-666.jpg)
    291 
    292 <p align="center"><em>
    293 The beginning of trail 666. This is not a nickname, it is
    294 the actual number that the <a href="https://www.cai.it">
    295 Italian Alpine Club</a> gave to this trail.
    296 </em></p>
    297 
    298 Actually, this is the easiest of two
    299 possible ways to the Pisciadù, the other being the [Ferrata
    300 Tridentina](https://www.alta-badia.org/en/leisure-activities/climbing-and-mountaineering/brigata-tridentina-route/).
    301 The booklet I am following describes it as "[...] reserved for
    302 well-equipped experts. Don't do it with heavy backpacks; don't do it if
    303 the weather is not good." We get at 0 out 3, the thought of taking the
    304 [via ferrata](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata) does not not
    305 even cross our minds.
    306 
    307 So trail 666 it is. This trail is also known as *Setus trail*, or somewhat
    308 improperly *Setus via ferrata*. It is extremely steep and it is more a
    309 climb than a walk, but it is not a via ferrata.  Most maps describe it
    310 as *sentiero attrezzato* (equipped trail), as it does have some fixed
    311 steel rope and handles where climbers can hang a safety rope.
    312 
    313 We have some simple ropes equipped with a
    314 [Carabiner](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carabiner), and we decide to
    315 use them. In the following days we would talk with other people who
    316 took the same route, and some of them would claim that a rope is not
    317 necessary on this trail. I don't care, I was relieved to have my trusty
    318 rope, especially considering the bad weather and how tired I was after
    319 more than 8 hours of hiking (plus the 9 hours of the previous day). And
    320 a safety rope is certainly of no use if kept in the backpack.
    321 
    322 ![Trail 666](../img/21-1654-trail666.jpg)
    323 
    324 <p align="center"><em>Trail 666 is really steep.</em></p>
    325 
    326 Overall, the steel rope and the handles are of great help, and although
    327 a couple of times I was unsure where to put my feet and I almost slept,
    328 I would not consider this trail dangerous, if one is properly equipped.
    329 
    330 The reason I found this trail hard was its *length*. I seriously had some
    331 difficulties caused by how tired I was and how sore my muscles were,
    332 after two full days of hike. Sometimes I could not complete a step or
    333 an arm movement on the first try because I just did not have the enough
    334 strength to push or pull up. And the trail just kept going!
    335 
    336 But at 17:30, exhausted but satisfied, we finally reach the top of this
    337 climb. The Pisciadù hut (2587m) is just around the corner.
    338 
    339 ![My dad at the end of trail 666](../img/21-1734-pisciadu.jpg)
    340 
    341 <p align="center"><em>My dad at the end of trail 666.</em></p>
    342 
    343 We, our clothes and our boots are still wet from all the rain we caught
    344 earlier in the day. Let's hope everything dries up during the night.
    345 
    346 <div class="page-break"></div>
    347 
    348 # Day 3 - A knee-breaking descent
    349 
    350 <p align="center"><em>August 22, 2025</em></p>
    351 
    352 <img src="../img/22-0000-map.png">
    353 <div class="page-break"></div>
    354 
    355 ## The lunar path to Rifugio Boè
    356 
    357 Our clothes are still wet by the time we wake up. The summer nights
    358 in the Alps are just too humid. But at least we can finally see some
    359 sun. The weather is going to be much better for the next few days.
    360 
    361 ![View from the Pisciadù hut](../img/22-0702-pisciadu.jpg)
    362 
    363 <p align="center"><em>A beatiful view from the Pisciadù hut at dawn.</em></p>
    364 
    365 The beds in the hut were comfortable and we slept well. After a comical
    366 incident with my dad's boots - he put on someone else's pair, not knowing
    367 that I had brought his into our room, and spent a good 15 minutes
    368 searching for them - we are ready to leave the hut at 8:20.
    369 
    370 ![The Pisciadù the lake and Piz Pisciadù](../img/22-0756-pisciadu-lake.jpg)
    371 
    372 <p align="center"><em>The Pisciadù lake and Piz Pisciadù (peak Pisciadù).</em></p>
    373 
    374 The day starts with a short but somewhat steep section of the trail.
    375 There are some steel ropes and we use our simple harness once again,
    376 although this time we felt we could have done without.
    377 
    378 At 9:45 we reach what is likely the highest point of our route,
    379 an anonymous plateau at 2960 meters on sea level. There are higher
    380 points on some variations of the route, for example *Punta Penia* in the
    381 [Marmolada](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmolada) massif, but in that
    382 section we are going to take a lower trail, which is the more classical
    383 one according to my guide book.
    384 
    385 At this point, we are completely immersed in a sea of fog. It is quite
    386 cold, probably only a couple of degrees above 0°C, and there is some
    387 unpleasantly cold breeze.
    388 
    389 ![My dad resting on a rock](../img/22-0946-fog.jpg)
    390 
    391 <p align="center"><em>My dad resting on a rock, trying to keep warm.</em></p>
    392 
    393 The fog comes and goes, letting us see the beautiful panorama for a few
    394 brief moments.
    395 
    396 ![Panorama](../img/22-1006-panorama.jpg)
    397 
    398 As we walk down from the plateau, my left knee starts hurting. It is
    399 not unbearable, and it only hurts when I walk downhill. But it does
    400 not bode well for the rest of the day: our next stop is 900m below us,
    401 so we are going to walk downhill for most of the day.
    402 
    403 At 10:30 we are on top of the *Antersass* (2906m), a minor peak next to
    404 the more prominent [Piz Boè](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piz_Bo%C3%A8)
    405 (3152m). We could have walked around the Antersass, but the trail to
    406 climb up to the top and then down is actually easier.  Going to the top
    407 of Piz Boè would have been an interesting detour, but not quite feasible
    408 for our 9-day plan.
    409 
    410 We reach [Rifugio Boè](https://www.rifugioboe.it), a recently renovated
    411 hut at 2873m, before 11:00.
    412 
    413 <div class="page-break"></div>
    414 
    415 ![Piz Boè](../img/22-1145-piz-boe.jpg)
    416 
    417 <p align="center"><em> A view of Piz Boè (peak Boè) from Rifugio Boè (Boè
    418 hut). The hut on the top of Piz Boè is, perhaps confusingly, called <a
    419 href="https://www.rifugiocapannapizfassa.com/en">Capanna Piz Fassa</a>.
    420 </em></p>
    421 
    422 We have now left Sout Tyrol. The rest of the Alta Via 2 route roughly
    423 follows the border between the provinces of Trento and Belluno.
    424 
    425 We leave the hut at 11:20. The fog has returned, but it is not as cold
    426 as before.
    427 
    428 The trail to *Foržela Pordoi* (2848m) is mostly flat, and very crowded,
    429 because of a cable car that makes it accessible even to families with
    430 kids. I am not sure I like this kind of over-turism in places that
    431 would otherwise be hard to reach.
    432 
    433 ## A painful descent
    434 
    435 As we reach the foržela, the view opens up on a more diverse landscape
    436 of grass, rock and forests. After a very short break, we start walking
    437 down to the Pordoi Pass.
    438 
    439 The descent is on a long and steep
    440 [scree](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scree).  I have never liked walking
    441 down this kind of trail, but now that my knee is screaming for mercy I am
    442 really hating it. I would have rather walked it up twice than down once.
    443 
    444 ![The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass](../img/22-1236-pordoi-descent.jpg)
    445 
    446 <p align="center"><em>The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass.</em></p>
    447 
    448 We reach the [Pordoi Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pordoi_Pass)
    449 at 13:30. I need a long break before continuing, so we decide to lay
    450 down next to a tiny church just after the pass.  Luckily the weather
    451 is nice - or not terrible, at least - and we can enjoy a nice view of
    452 the surroundings.
    453 
    454 ![View from the Pordoi Pass](../img/22-1358-pordoi-pass.jpg)
    455 
    456 <p align="center"><em>
    457 The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sella_group">Sella group</a>
    458 from the Pordoi Pass.</em></p>
    459 
    460 ![View towards Canazei](../img/22-1431-canazei.jpg)
    461 
    462 <p align="center"><em>The view in the direction of <a
    463 href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canazei">Cianacei</a>.</em></p>
    464 
    465 <div class="page-break"></div>
    466 
    467 ## Her majesty, the Marmolada
    468 
    469 At 14:10, after about 40 minutes of relax, we are ready to get up.
    470 
    471 We walk up an easy trail among ski paths.  Here too there are plenty of
    472 turists, and I can't blame them for choosing to walk in such a beautiful
    473 place. This is a very common touristic destination both in the Summer
    474 and in the Winter.
    475 
    476 We walk past a strange place called [Rifugio
    477 Fredarola](https://www.fredarola.it/) (2370m), which looks more like
    478 a night club you could find the center of Milan rather than a mountain
    479 hut. They are even playing some electronic lounge music.  It's hard to
    480 describe, but it feels oddly out of place here. But maybe for people
    481 coming from a big city this is just what they expect to find here;
    482 I guess it is a matter of points of view.
    483 
    484 We continue on a wide, mostly flat trail. For now my knee is is doing
    485 fine, but I am a bit scared for the descent that awaits us later today.
    486 And finally we have a good view on the Marmolada, the Queen of the
    487 Dolomites.
    488 
    489 ![Me in front of the Marmolada](../img/22-1510-marmolada.jpg)
    490 
    491 <p align="center"><em>
    492 The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmolada">Marmolada</a>,
    493 the highest mountain in the
    494 Dolomites, and its glacier.  At the feet of the massif you can
    495 see the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fedaia_Lake">Fedaia
    496 lake</a>, around which there are a couple of huts, including the one
    497 where we are staying tonight.  In the distance you can see the <a
    498 href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Pelmo">Pelmo</a> and the <a
    499 href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Civetta">Civetta</a>.
    500 </em></p>
    501 
    502 We stop at [Rifugio Viel Dal Pan](https://www.rifugiovieldalpan.com/)
    503 (2432m) for a short break at 15:30. From there, the steep descent towards
    504 the Fedaia Pass (2054m) begins. My knee forces me to walk slowly, so by
    505 the time we reach the pass it is already 17:30.
    506 
    507 The day is almost concluded, but we have to walk to the opposite side of
    508 the lake to [Rifugio Fedaia](https://www.rifugiofedaia.com/). The closer
    509 [Rifugio Castiglioni](https://www.rifugiomarmolada.it/), where we stop
    510 for a beer, was fully booked when we planned our trip.
    511 
    512 ![Fedaia lake](../img/22-1730-fedaia.jpg)
    513 
    514 We walk fast on the old road next to the lake, chatting with a local
    515 resident who helps us keep up the pace.  We arrive at our hotel at 18:05,
    516 after almost 10 hours of hike (including breaks), and we are very happy
    517 to find a comfortable room with private bathroom waiting for us.
    518 
    519 This day was longer than we planned, partly because of my knee.  But the
    520 scenery was beautiful.
    521 
    522 <div class="page-break"></div>
    523 
    524 # Day 4 - The forest and the pastures
    525 
    526 <p align="center"><em>August 23, 2025</em></p>
    527 
    528 <img src="../img/23-0000-map.png">
    529 <div class="page-break"></div>
    530 
    531 ## To Malga Ciapèla and Forca Rossa
    532 
    533 Our fourth day starts at 8:20, with a steep descent on a ski path.
    534 My knee stil hurts, and this points I am afraid I may have to
    535 deal with it for the rest of the trip.
    536 
    537 At 9:30 we pass Malga Ciapela (1450 meters on sea level) and we start
    538 walking up again. Soon we find an enigmatic sign which is apparently
    539 trying to communicate that going left or right leads to the same places.
    540 
    541 ![The confusing sign](../img/23-1012-sign.jpg)
    542 
    543 <p align="center"><em>The confusing sign.</em></p>
    544 
    545 We spend like 5 minutes figuring this out, and we choose to go left.
    546 
    547 The path is not steep and walking in the forest is enojyable.  Since we
    548 are at a lower altitude than we have been for most of the other days,
    549 it is also much warmer than what we got used to.
    550 
    551 ![A view from the trail in the forest](../img/23-1115-view.jpg)
    552 
    553 <p align="center"><em>
    554 A view from the forest, on the way up from Malga Ciapèla to Forca Rossa.
    555 </em></p>
    556 
    557 The forest soon leaves space to grassy slopes and naked rock.  The way
    558 up is still pleasant, and we have met almost no other hiker so far -
    559 in stark contrast with the previous day.
    560 
    561 ![Grassy slops up to Forca Rossa](../img/23-1220-forca-rossa.jpg)
    562 
    563 <p align="center"><em>
    564 The lower clay-red peak on the center-left of the picture is Forca Rossa,
    565 where we are headed. "Rossa" in Italian means "red" - it's nice when things
    566 are what their name says they are, isn't it?
    567 </em></p>
    568 
    569 We arrive at *Forca Rossa* (2500m) at 13:05. Only in the last few minutes
    570 my knee gave me some problems, but it is not so bad that it makes me
    571 want to stop.
    572 
    573 Here at the top of this trail there are all the hikers that we did not
    574 meet on the way up; they probably came from the other side. There must
    575 be some kind of force field blocking tourists from entering the province
    576 of Belluno.
    577 
    578 ![View from Forca Rossa to the Belluno side](../img/23-1325-forca-rossa-bl.jpg)
    579 
    580 <p align="center"><em>View from Forca Rossa to the Belluno side.</em></p>
    581 
    582 ![My dad and I chilling](../img/23-1333-chilling.jpg)
    583 
    584 <p align="center"><em>My dad and I chilling - quite literally, because of the wind.</em></p>
    585 
    586 ![View from Forca Rossa to the Trentino side](../img/23-1338-forca-rossa-tn.jpg)
    587 
    588 <p align="center"><em>View from Forca Rossa to the Trentino side.</em></p>
    589 
    590 <div class="page-break"></div>
    591 
    592 ## Walking down green pastures
    593 
    594 There is a great view on both sides of this pass, but the wind is cold
    595 and strong and we are not keen on staying long. After eating a couple
    596 of protein bars and taking many pictures, we start walking down towards
    597 Fuciade at 13:40.
    598 
    599 ![The path to Fuciade](../img/23-1420-pastures.jpg)
    600 
    601 <p align="center"><em>Walking down to Fuciade.</em></p>
    602 
    603 The way down is quite relaxing. We walk among green pastures, where
    604 cows and horses grazed freely. That is, until they are less romantically
    605 slaughtered to make [Bresaola](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bresaola).
    606 But until then they can enjoy the green grass.
    607 
    608 At 15:00 we reach Fuciade (1982m), a location where many families with
    609 kids were relaxing after a meal at [the hut](https://www.fuciade.it/en/).
    610 If one wants a more quiet place, a short walk up the trail that we were
    611 descending quickly leads away from the crowd.  This place gave a sense
    612 of tranquillity.
    613 
    614 ![Me relaxing in Fuciade](../img/23-1512-fuciade.jpg)
    615 
    616 <p align="center"><em>Me relaxing in Fuciade while I enjoy a glass of
    617 <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shandy#Radler">radler</a>
    618 - don't be fooled by the Coca-Cola can.</em></p>
    619 
    620 After a short short break, we move to
    621 [Rifugio Flora Alpina](https://floralpina.it) (1800m), that we reach
    622 quickly at around 16:00. The place is surrounded by the forest,
    623 and the only visible peaks are the
    624 [Mulaz](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mulaz) and the
    625 [Focobón group](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruppo_del_Focobon).
    626 
    627 <div class="page-break"></div>
    628 
    629 ![The Mulaz and the Focobon group](../img/23-1818-focobon.jpg)
    630 
    631 <p align="center"><em>
    632 A spectacular view of the Mulaz and the Focobón group. As the light
    633 changed and the clouds moved, the colors changed as well. I spent quite
    634 some time just sitting outside the hut, admiring these mountains.
    635 </em></p>
    636 
    637 Now, for the first time since we started our journey, we have some time
    638 to relax before dinner. We enjoy a sauna and a hot tub.
    639 
    640 <div class="page-break"></div>
    641 
    642 # Day 5 - Entering the Pala group
    643 
    644 <p align="center"><em>August 24, 2025</em></p>
    645 
    646 <img src="../img/24-0000-map.png">
    647 <div class="page-break"></div>
    648 
    649 ## Back on track
    650 
    651 ![The Focobon group at dawn](../img/24-0648-focobon.jpg)
    652 
    653 <p align="center"><em>
    654 This photo is the same at the last one of the previous day,
    655 but it is one of my best shots. It is also quite fascinating how the light
    656 at dawn mixes up all the colors compared to previous day's picture.
    657 </em></p>
    658 
    659 After a long sleep, we are ready to leave Flora Alpina at 8:20. Our
    660 first checkpoint is the
    661 [San Pellegrino Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Pellegrino_Pass),
    662 (1918 meters on sea level) which is unfortunately a bit farther away than
    663 it would have been if we slept in Fuciade.
    664 
    665 It takes us about one hour to reach the pass. On the way we saw a cow
    666 breastfeeding her calf, which was cute. We cross the main road on the pass,
    667 and from here we have to walk up on grassy slopes and ski paths. The
    668 signs point to a path that is not the one we planned, but the two tracks
    669 join shortly afterwards. The ski paths are extremely steep, but wide,
    670 so we can easily zig-zag all the way up.
    671 
    672 At 10:30 we reach the *Pale di Gargol* (2218m), a plane that I am not
    673 sure why deserves a name. Perhaps the name refers to the whole area
    674 which I guess could be described as a rocky meadow.
    675 
    676 ![The rocky meadow](../img/24-1027-pale-di-gargol.jpg)
    677 
    678 <p align="center"><em>
    679 The Pale di Gargol. The term "pala" means "shovel" in Italian,
    680 but according to the
    681 <a href="https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pale_di_San_Martino#Il_toponimo">
    682 Italian Wikipedia page</a> about the
    683 <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pala_group">Pale di San Martino</a>
    684 mountains, in the local language it once denoted a grassy slope at the
    685 feet of a mountain range.
    686 </em></p>
    687 
    688 Once again, the landscape has changed to show us something completely
    689 different from that we have seen so far. The constant shifting from rocks,
    690 to forest, to grass, to yet other types of rock and any combination of
    691 those features is in my opinion one of the most fascinating aspects of
    692 Alta Via 2.
    693 
    694 ![Walking down to Passo Valles](../img/24-1129-panorama.jpg)
    695 
    696 <p align="center"><em>Walking down to Passo Valles.
    697 In the background, the Pale di San Martino.</em></p>
    698 
    699 The trail continues almost flat in this unusual scenery until we
    700 descend to [Passo Valles](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passo_Valles) (2032m)
    701 at around 11:50. We are now entering the fascinating section of
    702 the *Pale di San Martino*, also known in English as the
    703 [Pala group](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pala_group), of which
    704 the Mulaz and the Focobón group are the northernmost peaks.
    705 
    706 But first we need a break. We stop at a bar on the pass for a coffee
    707 and a slice of strüdel.
    708 
    709 <div class="page-break"></div>
    710 
    711 ## Veneggia, Venegiotta and Pass dei Fochet
    712 
    713 We leave the pass at 12:20, and in half an hour we reach Forcella
    714 Veneggia (2217m). The view opens up to the wild valley in the south.
    715 
    716 ![The view from Forcella Veneggia](../img/24-1252-forcella-veneggia.jpg)
    717 
    718 <p align="center"><em>The view from Forcella Veneggia.</em></p>
    719 
    720 So far, the day has not been particularly challenging. Later on
    721 we'll have to pass some difficult sections, but for now we continue
    722 on some easy, if narrow, trails.
    723 
    724 Despite the beauty of the place, we don't meet many other hikers.
    725 In fact, I think we saw more marmots than people in this part of
    726 the route.
    727 
    728 ![More mountains](../img/24-1400-venegiotta.jpg)
    729 
    730 At around 14:00 we reach *Passo Venegiotta* (2300m), and about 30 minutes
    731 later *Passo dei Fochet* (2291m). The weather has been good today so far,
    732 but here a strong cold wind starts blowing, and we can feel a few drops
    733 of rain.
    734 
    735 <div class="page-break"></div>
    736 
    737 ## Through the rocks, to Rifugio Mulaz
    738 
    739 The landscape changes once again. We are now walking on rocks and gravel.
    740 
    741 ![Another scree](../img/24-1447-rocks-to-mulaz.jpg)
    742 
    743 We walk down a scree to around 2175m, before starting to climb up again.
    744 It's cold and cloudy, and this part of the trail is a fair bit more
    745 difficult than the previous. Nothing particularly hard or dangerous,
    746 but we have to pay more attention to where we put our feet.
    747 
    748 The trail abruptly becomes extremely steep, and very demanding on my
    749 muscles, which so far had been enjoying a more relaxing day.
    750 
    751 ![The climb to Rifugio Mulaz](../img/24-1552-climb-to-mulaz.jpg)
    752 
    753 <p align="center"><em>
    754 Some steel ropes help make the climb to Rifugio Mulaz less dangerous.
    755 </em></p>
    756 
    757 We reach Rifugio Mulaz (2570m) at 16:40, after a little more
    758 than 8 hours from when we left Flora Alpina. Somehow, despite the
    759 long walk between them, both these places are in the territory of
    760 [Falcade](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falcade).
    761 
    762 ![Reaching Rifugio Mulaz](../img/24-1638-mulaz.jpg)
    763 
    764 <p align="center"><em>Reaching Rifugio Mulaz</em></p>
    765 
    766 From this hut, the only landscape you can see, in any direction, is naked
    767 rock. There is a tiny window from where you can see a valley, but the
    768 sight is cut out and the only visible thing is more rocks.  Definitely
    769 fascinating, although I personally prefer more varied landscapes.
    770 
    771 I'll add a picture on the next day's page, the early morning light
    772 was much better.
    773 
    774 Oh and by the way, up here every resource is very scarce. There is
    775 no drinkable tap water, and showers cost 8€ for 5 minutes. But I
    776 really need one today.
    777 
    778 <div class="page-break"></div>
    779 
    780 # Day 6 - The Farangole trail
    781 
    782 <p align="center"><em>August 25, 2025</em></p>
    783 
    784 <img src="../img/25-0000-map.png">
    785 <div class="page-break"></div>
    786 
    787 ## The starry night
    788 
    789 During the night I woke up and managed to catch a glimpse of a wonderful
    790 starry night, the likes of which I had never seen before.
    791 
    792 If you live in a place with a lot of light pollution, like every medium
    793 to large city in the World, seeing *a few* stars may already be an unusual
    794 experience.  At the moment I live in a fairly small city, and we literally
    795 never see stars over here. We are lucky if we see Venus once in a while.
    796 
    797 But I grew up in a small village in a sparsely populated area, I *was*
    798 used to seeing skies full of stars at night. But this time, at 2500
    799 metres above sea level, in the middle of literally nowhere, the sky was
    800 soething else.
    801 
    802 I did not manage to take a good picture, sorry. I did not feel like
    803 going out in the freezing cold, and my phone's camera is probably not
    804 good enough anyway.
    805 
    806 ## The Farangole pass
    807 
    808 At Rifugio Mulaz, the sun rises at 6:40 and sets at around 7:05.
    809 In the morning. Luckily for you, I got up early enough to catch
    810 the *sunset*.
    811 
    812 ![The morning sunset](../img/25-0707-sunset.jpg)
    813 
    814 <p align="center"><em>
    815 Rifugio Mulaz is closely surrounded by high mountains.  This is the
    816 only spot where you could see something in the distance.  This time
    817 of the year, the sun rises from the peaks on the left of this picture,
    818 only to hide away behind those on the right a few minutes later.
    819 </em></p>
    820 
    821 It's a beautiful day, if only a bit cold. This time we get up earlier than
    822 usual and we are ready to leave at 7:15. The main challenge of the day
    823 is going to be the *Passo delle Farangole* (2932 meters on sea level),
    824 a high mountain pass not far from the hut. Our guide book even suggests
    825 a possible alternative route for less confident hikers, but we deemed
    826 it within our capabilities.
    827 
    828 After steep, but short, climb to *Forcella Margherita* (2655m) we reach a
    829 section of the trail that would not be particularly challenging, if
    830 not for the fact that the track is not well marked.
    831 
    832 ![The trail after Forcella Margherita](../img/25-0740-after-forcella-margherita.jpg)
    833 
    834 <p align="center"><em>
    835 The trail after Forcella Margherita, right before the Farangole pass.
    836 </em></p>
    837 
    838 In fact, the traces of the hikers who missed the path are *more* visible
    839 than the actual trail, likely because said hikers made them more clear
    840 by backtracking their steps when they realized they were out of the
    841 trail. We do the same a couple of times.
    842 
    843 We soon reach the start of the equipped trail that leads to the pass,
    844 but it looks sketchy, so I decide to try climbing up the scree next to
    845 it. This was probably a mistake, so we soon turn left and attach our
    846 trusty ropes to the steel supports.
    847 
    848 ![Me, climbing up to the Farangole Pass](../img/25-0830-up-to-farangole-pass.jpg)
    849 
    850 <p align="center"><em>Climbing up to the Farangole Pass.</em></p>
    851 
    852 The track is very steep, and at times
    853 [exposed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_%28heights%29), but the
    854 steel ropes and the other supporting material is in a good state.
    855 Overall, this famous Farangole Pass is easier than we expected.
    856 
    857 ![My dad climbing down from the Farangole pass](../img/25-0851-down-from-farangole.jpg)
    858 
    859 <p align="center"><em>
    860 And down we go. The steel ladder looks like it ends in the void,
    861 but actually there is an extra steel beam protruding from the
    862 rock, and after that there is only a 60cm drop.
    863 </em></p>
    864 
    865 After clearing the pass at around 9:00, we feel satisfied and proud of
    866 ourselves. My knee does not even hurt anymore.
    867 
    868 Little did we now that the truly difficult part is the Farangole *trail*,
    869 which we'll have to go through later this morning.  But for now, in our
    870 blissful ignorance, we enjoy the beautiful weather and we take plenty
    871 of pictures as we walk down from the pass.
    872 
    873 ![North view, towards the pass](../img/25-0910-blue-sky.jpg)
    874 
    875 <p align="center"><em>
    876 The view North, towards the mountains we have just passed.
    877 </em></p>
    878 
    879 ![A rocky plateau](../img/25-1009-rocky-plateau.jpg)
    880 
    881 <p align="center"><em>An imposing rocky plateau on the South.</em></p>
    882 
    883 ![The view to the North-East](../img/25-1019-north-east.jpg)
    884 
    885 <p align="center"><em>The view to the North-East.</em></p>
    886 
    887 ## The Farangole trail
    888 
    889 As the trail gets tight and very exposed, we realize that maybe
    890 *this* is the section the guide book was warning us about. We
    891 proceed carefully, attaching our home-made harness when a steel rope
    892 is available. Unfortunately, most of the trail is on a narrow ledge
    893 surrounded by grass and soft soil, where no piece of supporting material
    894 can be fixed. At least it is not wet today.
    895 
    896 ![My dad walking on the Farangole trail](../img/25-1109-dad-farangole.jpg)
    897 
    898 <p align="center"><em>
    899 My dad walking on a narrow section of the Farangole trail.
    900 </em></p>
    901 
    902 ![Anoher hiker](../img/25-1141-hiker.jpg)
    903 
    904 <p align="center"><em>Another hiker following us on the same trail.</em></p>
    905 
    906 Since this trail is challenging and dangerous, we have to keep
    907 constant focus on our steps and the way ahead of us. We have little
    908 time to relax and enjoy the beautiful view, and we take much fewer
    909 pictures than we did earlier.
    910 
    911 ![View from the Farangole trail](../img/25-1158-view.jpg)
    912 
    913 <p align="center"><em>
    914 The view from the last part of the Farangole trail, towards
    915 the East. Soon we'll have to walk down to the dry bed of the
    916 river you can see at the bottom of this picture. The tiny line
    917 on the hill on the left is the Farangole trail.
    918 </em></p>
    919 
    920 At 12:30 we reach the bottom of *Valgrande* (*Pian dei Cantoni*, 2310m).
    921 
    922 ## To Rifugio Rosetta and beyond
    923 
    924 The way up to Rifugio Rosetta is steep, but short. The previous
    925 part was not physically demanding, but it was dangerous and
    926 technically fairly challenging. I am relieved that now I can just
    927 let my legs bring me up, and I reach the hut at 13:05.
    928 
    929 ![Rifugio Rosetta](../img/25-1321-rosetta.jpg)
    930 
    931 <p align="center"><em>Rifugio Rosetta</em></p>
    932 
    933 [Rifugio Rosetta](https://www.rifugiorosetta.it) (2581m) is easily
    934 reachable with a cable car, and because of this it is very crowded,
    935 similarly to the area around Piz Boè that we passed through on
    936 [day 3](../day3).
    937 
    938 This is a good time for a break, so we decide to sit down, drink
    939 a glass of [skiwasser](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skiwasser), and
    940 eat another slice of strüdel. Yes, we ate a lot of those. The one
    941 they serve in this hut is particularly good, with plenty of fresh
    942 fruit and pine nuts.
    943 
    944 We get up and leave the hut at 14:05.  The weather gets cold and foggy,
    945 but luckily for us it won't last long.  Our plan is to walk down until
    946 *Col de le Fede* (2200m) and then up again to *Pass dei Ball* (2433m).
    947 
    948 The way down is slow and tedious, and my knee starts hurting again.
    949 
    950 ![Down from Rifugio Rosetta](../img/25-1519-down-from-rosetta.jpg)
    951 
    952 <p align="center"><em>Walking down from Rifugio Rosetta.</em></p>
    953 
    954 The way up to the pass is steep, and there is a long section equipped
    955 with a steel rope. But the equipped part is actually very easy compared
    956 to other similar trails that we have walked this morning and in the
    957 previous days.
    958 
    959 ![My dad walking on the equipped trail](../img/25-1606-rope.jpg)
    960 
    961 <p align="center"><em>My dad walking on this equipped section.</em></p>
    962 
    963 After reaching Pass dei Ball, we walk down slowly to
    964 [Rifugio Pradidali](https://www.rifugiopradidali.com/eng/Home.html)
    965 (2278m), which we reach at 17:05.
    966 
    967 Later we would discover that there is an alternative route to
    968 go from Rosetta to Pradidali, which starts by walking up to the
    969 East and skips both the slow and tedious descent and the
    970 more steep section before Pass dei Ball. This alternative path was
    971 probably slightly easier, but it would not have saved us that much
    972 time and effort.
    973 
    974 The Pradidali is a nice hut, but there is no phone signal nor WiFi.
    975 The showers are still expensive, and when it is my turn the water boiler
    976 has run out of gas, and I can either wait for it to be replaced or do a
    977 freezing cold shower. I don't want to wait, so arctic shower here I come!
    978 
    979 <div class="page-break"></div>
    980 
    981 # Day 7 - The longest day
    982 
    983 <p align="center"><em>August 26, 2025</em></p>
    984 
    985 <img src="../img/26-0000-map.png">
    986 <div class="page-break"></div>
    987 
    988 ## A relaxing stroll in Val Canali
    989 
    990 Last night we had to check our maps, because we were not sure which route
    991 we would be going, according to our plan. We did not remember that the
    992 guide book suggested two possible alternatives to reach the next hut,
    993 Rifugio Treviso: a higher mountain trail, with some challenging sections,
    994 and an easier one that starts by walking down the *Val Canali*, a valley
    995 that leads out of the Pala group and into the *Vette Feltrine* mountain
    996 range. Our plan was to follow the easier route, and we decided to stick
    997 to it.
    998 
    999 We leave the Pradidali at 7:30.
   1000 
   1001 ![Rifugio Pradidali](../img/26-0735-pradidali.jpg)
   1002 
   1003 <p align="center"><em>
   1004 Rifugio Pradidali and a mountain behind it, in a beautiful sunny morning.
   1005 Maybe I should have taken notes of the names of the peaks I photographed.
   1006 Oh well, too late now.
   1007 </em></p>
   1008 
   1009 ![Val Canali](../img/26-0801-val-canali.jpg)
   1010 
   1011 <p align="center"><em>Val Canali.</em></p>
   1012 
   1013 The descent is quite diverse, alternating between rocks, gravel, grass
   1014 and forest.  There are some steel ropes that seem oddly placed in a very
   1015 simple section, but they would probably be useful in a rainy day.
   1016 
   1017 ![Walking down](../img/26-0814-walking-down.jpg)
   1018 
   1019 <p align="center"><em>
   1020 Walking down an easy trail, in a typical Dolomite landscape.
   1021 </em></p>
   1022 
   1023 At 9:50 we reach the ruins of *malga Pradidali* (1428 meters on sea level).
   1024 So far it has been a nice sunny day, and the walk has been easy.  But the
   1025 end of the day will be very different.
   1026 
   1027 ![The ruins of malga Pradidali](../img/26-0954-malga-pradidali.jpg)
   1028 
   1029 <p align="center"><em>
   1030 The ruins of malga Pradidali. A "malga" is a building where people
   1031 temporarily lived in the Summer while their livestock grazed the high
   1032 mountain pastures that surround it. Malga Antersasc, that we passed by on
   1033 <a href="../day1">day one</a>, is another example. Many malgas are still
   1034 in use nowadays, and they often sell locally-produced dairy products,
   1035 but unfortunately for us we only found ruins so far.
   1036 </em></p>
   1037 
   1038 The trail continues in the forest, and at 10:35 we pass by *malga
   1039 Canali* (1307m).  This one *was* in use, and we could have stopped to
   1040 eat something if we wanted, but we did not.
   1041 
   1042 ![The pastures behind malga Canali](../img/26-1040-from-malga-canali.jpg)
   1043 
   1044 <p align="center"><em>The pastures behind malga Canali.</em></p>
   1045 
   1046 We now have to walk up to reach Rifugio Treviso (1631m). The trail in
   1047 the forest becomes steep, but it does not last long. We reach the hut
   1048 at 11:40, and it is time for a break.
   1049 
   1050 ![From Rifugio Treviso](../img/26-1206-treviso.jpg)
   1051 
   1052 <div class="page-break"></div>
   1053 
   1054 ## The return of the clouds
   1055 
   1056 After taking a few pictures and a slice of a typical alpine dessert (I'll
   1057 let you guess which one), we are ready to start walking again at 12:30.
   1058 
   1059 Our next checkpoint is *forcella d'Oltro* (2094m). My knee has been
   1060 good so far, but I still try not to put too much weight on it. The road
   1061 up to the forcella is steep, and we are tired. We have done nothing but
   1062 walking steep trails for more than a week at this point. We walk slowly,
   1063 but steadily.
   1064 
   1065 ![Forested mountains to the North-West](../img/26-1354-forested-slopes.jpg)
   1066 
   1067 <p align="center"><em>The forested slopes on the North-West.</em></p>
   1068 
   1069 On our way up, we meet a couple walking down from the forcella. They
   1070 tell us that they could see nothing at all on the other side, because
   1071 of the fog and the clouds. We are not sure if we should take them
   1072 literally, because it is such a sunny day on this side. But indeed,
   1073 when we reach the tight pass at 14:30, we can see it with out own eyes.
   1074 
   1075 ![The fog oon the other side](../img/26-1432-fog.jpg)
   1076 
   1077 <p align="center"><em>The fog on the other side of forcella d'Oltro.</em></p>
   1078 
   1079 ![The sunny side where we came from](../img/26-1439-not-fog.jpg)
   1080 
   1081 <p align="center"><em>
   1082 The side where we came from, in contrast, is perfectly sunny.
   1083 </em></p>
   1084 
   1085 We need another short break, but we don't want to stay here for
   1086 too long. As often happens in these high passes,
   1087 the wind is strong and chilling.
   1088 
   1089 We thought this would be the last place above 2000 meters of the whole
   1090 trip. Or at the very least for the day, considering that all that was
   1091 left was walking down to the
   1092 [Cereda Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cereda_Pass).
   1093 But we were not exactly right.
   1094 
   1095 ## Down? Not so fast, cowboy
   1096 
   1097 The descent to the Cereda Pass starts very steep, and we quickly loose
   1098 about 200 meters of altitude. But then the trail starts going up again,
   1099 and slowly but surely we walk up, and up, and up. The road is not steep,
   1100 but we are walking on a tight ledge on a grassy slope that requires us
   1101 to focus.
   1102 
   1103 ![Me on the tight ledge](../img/26-1603-tight-ledge.jpg)
   1104 
   1105 <p align="center"><em>
   1106 Me on this tight path that, for whatever reason, is leading back
   1107 up instead of down to Pass Cereda. As you can see, I am not amused.
   1108 </em></p>
   1109 
   1110 Only after we reach the altitude of 2150m do we start going down,
   1111 but this time very slowly. We cannot see very far due to the fog,
   1112 and in any case we would still be hyper-focused on our steps.
   1113 But at least there are some interesting rock formations close to
   1114 us that are worth admiring.
   1115 
   1116 ![Some curious rock formations](../img/26-1619-rocks.jpg)
   1117 
   1118 <p align="center"><em>Some interesting rock formations close to the trail.</em></p>
   1119 
   1120 ![A tree growing on a rock](../img/26-1644-tree.jpg)
   1121 
   1122 <p align="center"><em>A tree growing on top of a naked rock.</em></p>
   1123 
   1124 The trail gradually becomes less exposed, but more steep. My knee starts
   1125 hurting once again, but I am not surprised, considering how long we have
   1126 been walking since this morning.
   1127 
   1128 After what feels like an eternity of wandering through the fog,
   1129 we reach the hotel at the Cereda Pass (1361m) at 18:15. After
   1130 almost 11 hours of walk, my feet and my knees are begging for mercy.
   1131 
   1132 ![Pastures around the Cereda Pass](../img/26-1758-cereda.jpg)
   1133 
   1134 <p align="center"><em>The pastures around the Cereda Pass.</em></p>
   1135 
   1136 We have a private room at [Rifugio
   1137 Cereda](https://www.rifugiocereda.com/en/), where
   1138 we can have a shower, and we rest well. The food is
   1139 also amazing: I have what is one of the best plates of
   1140 [*käsespätzle*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K%C3%A4sesp%C3%A4tzle)
   1141 of my life. By the way, over here the spätzle are prepared with spinach
   1142 and they are green, not white; I think they do the same in Tyrol, but
   1143 definitely not in Germany.
   1144 
   1145 Unfortunately, the weather forecasts for the next day are not as good
   1146 as our dinner.
   1147 
   1148 <div class="page-break"></div>
   1149 
   1150 # Day 8 - The Troi dei Caserin
   1151 
   1152 <p align="center"><em>August 27, 2025</em></p>
   1153 
   1154 <img src="../img/27-0000-map.png">
   1155 <div class="page-break"></div>
   1156 
   1157 ## A damp morning
   1158 
   1159 Today the final part of Alta Via 2 begins. We are entering the *Vette
   1160 Feltrine*, a part that is perhaps less well-known by tourists, but no
   1161 less beautiful. The trails we'll have to walk are going to be narrow,
   1162 often steep.
   1163 
   1164 The weather forecasts for the day are not great, but we
   1165 should reach [Rifugio Boz](https://www.rifugioboz.it/) (1718 meters
   1166 on sea level) before it starts raining. For now there is just a thick fog,
   1167 and the weather is unpleasantly hot and humid.
   1168 
   1169 ![Rifugio Cereda, with the Pala Group in the background](../img/27-0740-cereda.jpg)
   1170 
   1171 <p align="center"><em>Our last sight of Rifugio Cereda and the Pala Group.</em></p>
   1172 
   1173 We leave at 7:45. At first we walk on a secondary paved road, then on
   1174 a dirt road.  Both my guide booklet and the signs try to make us walk
   1175 downhill towards the nearby villages of Matiuz and Padreterno, but there
   1176 is a clearly faster road that stays in the forest and leads to the
   1177 start of the actual trail.
   1178 
   1179 ![Some signs, none pointing to where we are going](../img/27-0833-sign.jpg)
   1180 
   1181 <p align="center"><em>
   1182 The top sign is marked as "AV2", for Alta Via 2. There is a gap that
   1183 was probably filled by a sign pointing left, which is the way we took.
   1184 I suspect someone - perhaps the local forest authorities - removed
   1185 the sign because they did not want people to go that way, but I
   1186 can't imagine why. Or perhaps the sign simply fell off.
   1187 </em></p>
   1188 
   1189 After about one hour of walk in the forest, the actual trail begins.
   1190 The humidity is very intense, still unpleasant. Unfortunately this also
   1191 means that the pictures of the day are very... foggy.
   1192 
   1193 ![The valley in the fog](../img/27-0945-fog.jpg)
   1194 
   1195 <p align="center"><em>The valley behind us, in the fog.</em></p>
   1196 
   1197 <div class="page-break"></div>
   1198 
   1199 ## L'Intaiàda
   1200 
   1201 The trail becomes steep, and then extremely steep. We walk along
   1202 a vertical wall of granite, where a narrow passage is carved out.
   1203 Indeed, this part of the trail is called *L'Intaiàda*, which
   1204 can be roughly translated as *The Carved-Out*.
   1205 
   1206 ![L'Intaiàda](../img/27-1022-intaiada.jpg)
   1207 
   1208 <p align="center"><em>Admittedly not the best picture of L'Intaiàda.</em></p>
   1209 
   1210 The trail continues, narrow and exposed, but well equipped with some
   1211 sturdy metal ropes where needed. It requires some attention, but I don't
   1212 find it scary or particularly difficult; there is always some rock or
   1213 support piece I can hang on to rest while I think about the next steps.
   1214 
   1215 ![Another section of L'Intaiàda](../img/27-1107-intaiada-2.jpg)
   1216 
   1217 <p align="center"><em>Another section of L'Intaiàda.</em></p>
   1218 
   1219 ![The steep trail](../img/27-1145-comedon.jpg)
   1220 
   1221 The trail continues very steep, and at 12:05 we reach the *Pass del
   1222 Comedon* (2130m).
   1223 
   1224 ![View from the pass](../img/27-1209-comedon-2.jpg)
   1225 
   1226 <p align="center"><em>View from the pass.</em></p>
   1227 
   1228 <div class="page-break"></div>
   1229 
   1230 ## A quick break at Bivacco Feltre
   1231 
   1232 From the pass we walk down an extremely steep trail, initially very
   1233 exposed, then less scary.
   1234 
   1235 My left knee has been doing well so far, but suddently I feel an acute
   1236 sting of pain that almost makes loose my balance. This is not good. It
   1237 is also very different from the constant, mild to moderate pain that I
   1238 have felt when walking downhill in the past few days. But I push through,
   1239 slowly and steadily.
   1240 
   1241 The fog becomes even thicker, at times we can't see much farther than
   1242 20-30 meters.
   1243 
   1244 ![We are close to Bivacco Feltre](../img/27-1254-fog.jpg)
   1245 
   1246 <p align="center"><em>We are close to Bivacco Feltre, but we can't see it.</em></p>
   1247 
   1248 For a brief moment I catch a glimpse of *Bivacco Feltre* (1930m), a
   1249 [sheet metal shelter](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bivouac_shelter)
   1250 where hikers can wait for the bad weather to subside, or spend the night
   1251 in case of need.
   1252 
   1253 ![Bivacco Feltre](../img/27-1303-bivacco-feltre.jpg)
   1254 
   1255 <p align="center"><em>Bivacco Feltre.</em></p>
   1256 
   1257 We reach the bivouac at 13:05, and we decide to take a break. We eat
   1258 a protein bar and refill our water bottles. Unfortunately, we can see
   1259 literally nothing besides the meadow around us, and the fog.
   1260 
   1261 ![The view from Bivacco Feltre](../img/27-1319-fog-view.jpg)
   1262 
   1263 <p align="center"><em>
   1264 Our view from Bivacco Feltre. The guide book describes the place
   1265 as "pleasant and majestic". I guess I'll have to trust them on this one.
   1266 </em></p>
   1267 
   1268 We need some rest, but we don't want to wait for too long. The journey
   1269 is still long, and if we don't reach our destination before 17:00 we
   1270 will probably be caught by the forecasted thunderstorm. We leave the
   1271 bivouac at 13:30.
   1272 
   1273 ## The Troi dei Caserin
   1274 
   1275 From the shelter we walk down, loosing about 200 or 300 meters of
   1276 altitude. We quickly gain them back, as the trail continues upwards.
   1277 The fog is still very thick, we can't see further than 10m.
   1278 
   1279 The trail so far is not particuarly hard, but there are some interesting
   1280 passages where we have to cross some waterfalls and some small water
   1281 streams.  Or maybe I found them interesting only because my bad knee
   1282 prevented me from pushing with my left leg and I had to make some complex
   1283 alternative manouvers.
   1284 
   1285 ![A waterfall with a small pond](../img/27-1350-waterfall.jpg)
   1286 
   1287 At 14:50 we reach *Col dei Bech* (1960m), which means *Ibex' hill*.
   1288 And in fact, just after Cold dei Bech, in one of the rare moments when
   1289 the fog let us see at more than 15 meters, we did see a small family
   1290 of chamois.  Ok, not quite ibex, but close enough.  Judging from the
   1291 quantity of warm shit that we saw on the trail, they had probably walked
   1292 right ahead of us for a while.
   1293 
   1294 We continue on this trail that becomes increasingly narrow and exposed,
   1295 difficult in some sections. We are on the *Troi dei Caserin* ("the
   1296 Caserins' trail").
   1297 
   1298 ![Troi dei Caserin](../img/27-1545-caserin.jpg)
   1299 
   1300 There are some steel ropes in the most dangerous parts, but not for
   1301 long: soon we reach a grassy section, and the trail becomes ever
   1302 more narrow. On our left, the emptiness of a hundred-meters free fall is
   1303 hidden by the fog. My aching knee makes everything even more challenging.
   1304 
   1305 We did not take many pictures of this part of the journey, mainly because
   1306 we were focusing on keeping our feet on the ground. Apparently, my dad
   1307 and I walked this same trail some 15 years ago, when it was covered in
   1308 half a meter of snow. And I say apparently because, even though we both
   1309 remember that trip quite well, we have no recollection of taking such a
   1310 dangerous path in those conditions. But there is no alternative road,
   1311 so we must have done it... somehow.
   1312 
   1313 At 16:45 we reach *Pass de Mura* (1867m). The view opens up, but we
   1314 can't quite see our destination yet.
   1315 
   1316 ![Malga Neva (not where we are going)](../img/27-1644-pass-de-mura.jpg)
   1317 
   1318 <p align="center"><em>
   1319 You see the tiny building down there? It is not Rifugio
   1320 Boz, but Malga Neva. Luckily for us, the Rifugio is closer than that.
   1321 </em></p>
   1322 
   1323 We walk down from the pass and we reach [Rifugio
   1324 Boz](https://www.rifugioboz.it/) (1718m) at 17:05. Just as we walk
   1325 through the door, a strong storm begins.
   1326 
   1327 <div class="page-break"></div>
   1328 
   1329 ## At Rifugio Boz
   1330 
   1331 We are tired, hungry and our muscles are sore. As we check in, the hut
   1332 manager asks us if we are walking the Alta Via. We respond that yes,
   1333 we are, and tomorrow we will be going all the way to [Rifugio Dal
   1334 Piaz](https://www.rifugiodalpiaz.com), and we'll finally walk down
   1335 victorious to Croce d'Aune in the evening.
   1336 
   1337 "Are you sure about that?" - she says.
   1338 
   1339 "Why?" - we ask, not sure if she was joking or not.
   1340 
   1341 "Have you seen the weather forecast?"
   1342 
   1343 <div class="page-break"></div>
   1344 
   1345 # Day 9 - Cutting it short
   1346 
   1347 <p align="center"><em>August 28, 2025</em></p>
   1348 
   1349 <img src="../img/28-0000-map.png">
   1350 <div class="page-break"></div>
   1351 
   1352 ## An inevitable decision
   1353 
   1354 The last leg of the Alta Via 2 is long, challenging and dangerous.
   1355 Most of the trail is on top of a ridge, exposed on both sides, and strong
   1356 winds are frequent.
   1357 
   1358 And in the afternoon of August 28, the last day of our Alta Via 2, there
   1359 are going to be strong thunderstorms. The manager at Rifugio Boz told
   1360 us "I have walked this trail many times, but with a weather like this,
   1361 I would never dare".
   1362 
   1363 We are prepared and experienced, but we are powerless against the forces
   1364 of nature. We give up. On August 28, the last day of our Alta Via 2,
   1365 we are not going to Rifugio Dal Piaz, or to Croce d'Aune. We are going
   1366 down a safer trail, in the forest of the
   1367 [*Val Canzoi*](https://www.dolomitipark.it/en/visiting-the-park/itineraries/on-foot/nature-trails/val-di-canzoi/),
   1368 and we are going to conclude our adventure half a day earlier.
   1369 
   1370 <div class="page-break"></div>
   1371 
   1372 ## From Rifugio Boz to Malga Alvis
   1373 
   1374 ![Rifugio Boz with the Sass de Mura on the background](../img/28-0730-boz-sass-de-mura.jpg)
   1375 
   1376 <p align="center"><em>Rifugio Boz with the
   1377 <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sass_de_Mura">Sass de Mura</a>
   1378 in the background.</em></p>
   1379 
   1380 We leave the hut at 7:35. The are two ways to walk down to Val Canzoi:
   1381 either we climb up to *Passo Alvis*, or to *Passo Finestra*. We
   1382 choose the former, as the trail that comes down from Passo Alvis
   1383 ends close to a bar where we can wait for someone to pick us up.
   1384 
   1385 ![Walking to Passo Alvis](../img/28-0740-walk.jpg)
   1386 
   1387 <p align="center"><em>We walk together with other 3 hikers to Passo Alvis.
   1388 We are not the only ones who decided to cut the Alta Via short.</em></p>
   1389 
   1390 The weather is not bad for now. There are clouds, but it is not raining.
   1391 But the afternoon storm is going to be massive.
   1392 
   1393 At 7:55 we are up to Passo Alvis (1880 meters on sea level). From there,
   1394 we only need to go down another 1000 meters. We can't quite see the
   1395 bottom of the valley, but we do see the back of the main mountains that
   1396 are also visible from our home.
   1397 
   1398 ![The view from Passo Alvis](../img/28-0755-pizoc.jpg)
   1399 
   1400 <p align="center"><em>The view from Passo Alvis. In the back, partly hidden by the
   1401 clouds, you can see the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pizzocco">
   1402 Pizzocco</a>,
   1403 the main mountain that rises above our home town. We are coming home!</em></p>
   1404 
   1405 We walk down from the pass. The descent starts steep, but the trail is
   1406 not difficult. We see one last family of chamoix, running away from us.
   1407 
   1408 At 8:40 we reach Malga Alvis (1573m).
   1409 
   1410 ![Malga Alvis](../img/28-0850-malga-alvis.jpg)
   1411 
   1412 <p align="center"><em>Malga Alvis.</em></p>
   1413 
   1414 It starts raining. We take shelter inside the malga. The building
   1415 is not used for its original purpose anymore, but it is maintained
   1416 by the local natural park administration as a bivouac for hikers.
   1417 Some 15 years ago, in a cold late April, my dad and I spent the night
   1418 here before continuing our hike the following day.
   1419 
   1420 <div class="page-break"></div>
   1421 
   1422 ## Down to the valley, one last time
   1423 
   1424 Luckily the rain stops soon, and the five of us can continue our march.
   1425 The *Lago della Stua* is now visible.
   1426 
   1427 ![Lago della Stua](../img/28-0928-lago-della-stua.jpg)
   1428 
   1429 <p align="center"><em>Lago della Stua in Val Canzoi.</em></p>
   1430 
   1431 We keep going down. My knee starts hurting again, but we are almost there.
   1432 Overall I enjoyed this last part of the journey. The trail in this
   1433 mid-mountain forest is exactly the kind of road that I used to walk a
   1434 lot years ago, when I frequently hiked around these mountains.
   1435 
   1436 Our adventure ends at 10:40, on the dam of the lake.
   1437 
   1438 ![The end](../img/28-1040-end.jpg)
   1439 
   1440 We reach the nearby bar, we sit down, we drink a
   1441 [spritz](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spritz_(cocktail)).
   1442 
   1443 <div class="page-break"></div>
   1444 
   1445 # After the hike
   1446 
   1447 ## Back home
   1448 
   1449 *August 28, 2025*
   1450 
   1451 My dad's cousin came to pick us up. As we got into the car, the
   1452 storm started.  From there, it kept raining the whole afternoon. Not
   1453 coninuously, it came and went, but when it was there it was
   1454 very strong. The bad weather continued for a couple of days.
   1455 
   1456 We made a good call ending our trip early.
   1457 
   1458 <div class="page-break"></div>
   1459 
   1460 ## Celebration
   1461 
   1462 *August 29, 2025*
   1463 
   1464 Some of the people we met along the way arrived in Feltre on the next
   1465 day. Like use, they could not properly finish the Alta Via, as the bad
   1466 weather caught them when they arrived at Passo Cereda.
   1467 
   1468 We decided to meet for a dinner all together at [Birreria
   1469 Pedavena](https://www.labirreriapedavena.it/), the largest brewery in
   1470 Italy, which is conveniently located between Croce d'Aune and Feltre. In
   1471 fact, if you walk Alta Via 2 all the way to Feltre, you pass right in
   1472 front of the Birreria.
   1473 
   1474 ![Dinner at Birreria Pedavena](../img/29-pedavena.jpg)
   1475 
   1476 <div class="page-break"></div>
   1477 
   1478 ## Award
   1479 
   1480 *September 2, 2025*
   1481 
   1482 Upon completing Alta Via 2, hikers can receive an official pin. It is
   1483 awarded by the tourist office in Feltre, where they can also
   1484 add their name to the book of "finishers".
   1485 
   1486 As you know, we did not complete the full Alta Via. But since Feltre is
   1487 just around the corner, we thought why not go there and ask? In the end,
   1488 the exact route of Alta Via 2 is not set in stone.
   1489 
   1490 It turns out that, according to the guidelines laid out by the Italian
   1491 Alpine Club, reaching Rifugio Boz is enough to officially complete Alta
   1492 Via 2 and be called a finisher!
   1493 
   1494 ![The Alta Via 2 pin](../img/99-02-pin.jpg)
   1495 
   1496 Indeed, they know that the last leg of the hike is often skipped due to
   1497 bad weather. Ending the journey at Passo Cereda, however, is not enough.
   1498 
   1499 So now we also have some official recognition for our effort. Cool!
   1500 
   1501 <div class="page-break"></div>
   1502 
   1503 ## Farewell to the mountains
   1504 
   1505 *September 3, 2025*
   1506 
   1507 After the hike I spent a few days at home with my family. But now it is
   1508 time to go back to the flat lands, where I have been living for the past
   1509 few years.
   1510 
   1511 My flight back to Amsterdam, as it sometimes does, flew right over the
   1512 Dolomites. I was able to recognize not only my home town, but also many of
   1513 the mountains and valleys my dad and I walked through just a week earlier.
   1514 
   1515 ![The Dolomites from the plane](../img/99-03-farewell.jpg)