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1# Day 3 - A knee-breaking descent
2
3|[← Day 2](../day2)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 4 →](../day4)|
4|:-|:-:|-:|
5
6## Route of the day
7
8<details>
9<summary><strong>Click to see map</strong></summary>
10<img src="../img/22-0000-map.png">
11</details>
12
13*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day3.gpx) or see the route on
14[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/alta-badia/-2025-alta-via-2-day-3/325541657/?share=%7E3zdmpbrn%244ossqbcq)*
15
16## The lunar path to Rifugio Boè
17
18Our clothes are still wet by the time we wake up. The summer nights
19in the Alps are just too humid. But at least we can finally see some
20sun. The weather is going to be much better for the next few days.
21
22![View from the Pisciadù hut](../img/22-0702-pisciadu.jpg)
23<p align=center>*A beatiful view from the Pisciadù hut at dawn.*</p>
24
25The beds in the hut were comfortable and we slept well. After a comical
26incident with my dad's boots - he put on someone else's pair, not knowing
27that I had brought his back into our room, and spent a good 15 minutes
28searching for them - we are ready to leave the hut at 8:20.
29
30![The Pisciadù the lake and Piz Pisciadù](../img/22-0756-pisciadu-lake.jpg)
31<p align="center">*The Pisciadù lake and Piz Pisciadù (peak Pisciadù).*</p>
32
33The days starts with a short but somewhat steep section of the trail.
34There are some steel ropes and we use our simple harness once again,
35although this time we felt we could have done without.
36
37At 9:45 we reach what is likely the highest point of our route,
38an anonymous plateau at 2960 meters on sea level. There are higher
39points on some variations of the route, for example *Punta Penia* in the
40[Marmolada](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmolada) massif, but we are
41going to take a lower route, which is the more classical one according
42to my guide book.
43
44At this point, we are completely immersed in a sea of fog. It is quite
45cold, probably only a couple of degrees above 0°C, and there is some
46unpleasantly cold breeze.
47
48![My dad resting on a rock](../img/22-0946-fog.jpg)
49<p align="center">*My dad resting on a rock, trying to keep warm.*</p>
50
51The fog comes and goes, letting us see the beautiful panorama for
52a few brief moments.
53
54![Panorama](../img/22-1006-panorama.jpg)
55
56As we walk down from the plateau, my left knee starts hurting. It is
57not unbearable, and it only hurts when I walk downhill. But it does
58not bode well for the rest of the day: our next stop is 900m below us,
59so we are going to walk downhill for most of the day.
60
61At 10:30 we are on top of the *Antersass* (2906m), a minor peak next to
62the more prominent [Piz Boè](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piz_Bo%C3%A8)
63(3152m). We could have walked arount the Antersass, but the trail to
64climb up to the top and then down is actually easier than the one that
65goes around it. Going to the top of Piz Boè would have been an
66interesting detour, but not quite feasible for our 9-day plan.
67
68We reach [Rifugio Boè](https://www.rifugioboe.it), a recently renovated
69hut at 2873m, before 11:00.
70
71![Piz Boè](../img/22-1145-piz-boe.jpg)
72<p align="center">
73*A view of Piz Boè (peak Boè) from Rifugio Boè (Boè hut). The hut
74on the top of Piz Boè is, perhaps confusingly, called
75[Capanna Piz Fassa](https://www.rifugiocapannapizfassa.com/en/).*
76</p>
77
78We have now left Sout Tyrol. The rest of the Alta Via 2 route
79roughly follows the border between the provinces of Trento and
80Belluno.
81
82We leave the hut at 11:20. The fog has returned, but it is not as
83cold as before.
84
85The trail to *Foržela Pordoi* (2848m) is mostly flat, and very crowded,
86because of a cable car that makes it accessible even to families with
87kids. I am not sure I like this kind of over-turism in in places that
88would otherwise be hard to reach.
89
90## A painful descent
91
92As we reach the foržela, the view opens up on a more diverse landscape
93of grass, rock and forests. After a very short break, we start walking
94down to the Pordoi Pass.
95
96The descent is on a long and steep [scree](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scree).
97I have never liked walking down this kind of trail, but now that my knee
98is screaming for mercy I am really hating it. I would have rather walked it
99up twice than down once.
100
101![The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass](../img/22-1236-pordoi-descent.jpg)
102<p align="center">*The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass.*</p>
103
104We reach the [Pordoi Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pordoi_Pass)
105at 13:30. I need a long break before continuining, so we decide to
106lay down next to a tiny church just after the pass.
107Luckily the weather is nice - or not terrible, at least -
108and we can enjoy a nice view of the surroundings.
109
110![View from the Pordoi Pass](../img/22-1358-pordoi-pass.jpg)
111<p align="center">*The mountains surrounding the Pordoi Pass.*</p>
112
113![View towards Canazei](../img/22-1431-canazei.jpg)
114<p align="center">
115*The view in the direction of [Cianacei](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canazei).*
116</p>
117
118## Her majesty, the Marmolada
119
120At 14:10, after about 40 minutes of relax, we are ready to get up.
121
122The walk up an easy trail among ski paths. Here too there are plenty of
123turists, and I can't blame them for choosing to walk in such a beautiful
124place. This is a very common touristic destination both in the Summer
125and in the Winter.
126
127We walk past a strange place called
128[Rifugio Fredarola](https://www.fredarola.it/) (2370m), which looks
129more like a night club you could find the center of Milan rather than
130a mountain hut. They are even playing some electronic lounge music.
131It's hard to describe, but it feels oddly out of place here. But for
132people coming from a big city this is just what they expect to find here;
133I guess it is a matter of points of view.
134
135We continue on a wide, mostly flat trail. For now my knee is is doing
136fine, but I am a bit scared for the descent that awaits us later today.
137And finally we have a good view on the Marmolada, the Queen of the
138Dolomites.
139
140![Me in front of the Marmolada](../img/22-1510-marmolada.jpg)
141<p align="center">
142*The Marmolada, the highest mountain in the Dolomites, and its glacier.
143At the feet of the massif you can see the
144[Fedaia Lake](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fedaia_Lake), around which
145there are a couple of huts, including the one where we are staying tonight.
146In the distance you can see the
147[Pelmo](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Pelmo) and the
148[Civetta](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Civetta).*
149</p>
150
151We stop at [Rifugio Viel Dal Pan](https://www.rifugiovieldalpan.com/)
152(2432m) for a short break at 15:30. From there, the steep descent towards
153the Fedaia Pass (2054m) begins. My knee forces me to walk slowly, so by
154the time we reach the pass it is already 17:30.
155
156The day is almost concluded, but we have to walk to to opposite side
157of the lake to [Rifugio Fedaia](https://www.rifugiofedaia.com/). The
158closer [Rifugio Castiglioni](https://www.rifugiomarmolada.it/), where
159we stop for a beer, was fully booked when we planned our trip.
160
161![Fedaia Lake](../img/22-1730-fedaia.jpg)
162
163We walk fast on the old road next to the lake, chatting with a local
164resident who helps us keep up the pace. We arrive at our hotel at 18:05,
165after almost 10 hours of hike (including breaks), and we are very happy
166to find a comfortable room with private bathroom waiting for us.
167
168This day was longer than we planned, partly because of my knee.
169But the scenery was beautiful.
170
171|[← Day 2](../day2)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 4 →](../day4)|
172|:-|:-:|-:|

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