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| author | Sebastiano Tronto <sebastiano@tronto.net> | 2025-10-06 22:09:12 +0200 |
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| committer | Sebastiano Tronto <sebastiano@tronto.net> | 2025-10-08 21:45:22 +0200 |
| commit | 82b9f6c3ff97fccce19e0fa5fe34250bf3790f3f (patch) | |
| tree | 6472393034f8202de77f9010b62a5d2cc9231818 /src/av2/day3/day3.md | |
| parent | 53a9bc43b4f4a92d0502e10161d5a6a5ac03f8ac (diff) | |
| download | sebastiano.tronto.net-82b9f6c3ff97fccce19e0fa5fe34250bf3790f3f.tar.gz sebastiano.tronto.net-82b9f6c3ff97fccce19e0fa5fe34250bf3790f3f.zip | |
Fixed navigation table using m4
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| 1 | # Day 3 - A knee-breaking descent | ||
| 2 | |||
| 3 | |[← Day 2](../day2)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 4 →](../day4)| | ||
| 4 | |:-|:-:|-:| | ||
| 5 | |||
| 6 | ## Route of the day | ||
| 7 | |||
| 8 | <details> | ||
| 9 | <summary><strong>Click to see map</strong></summary> | ||
| 10 | <img src="../img/22-0000-map.png"> | ||
| 11 | </details> | ||
| 12 | |||
| 13 | *Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day3.gpx) or see the route on | ||
| 14 | [outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/alta-badia/-2025-alta-via-2-day-3/325541657/?share=%7E3zdmpbrn%244ossqbcq)* | ||
| 15 | |||
| 16 | ## The lunar path to Rifugio Boè | ||
| 17 | |||
| 18 | Our clothes are still wet by the time we wake up. The summer nights | ||
| 19 | in the Alps are just too humid. But at least we can finally see some | ||
| 20 | sun. The weather is going to be much better for the next few days. | ||
| 21 | |||
| 22 |  | ||
| 23 | <p align=center>*A beatiful view from the Pisciadù hut at dawn.*</p> | ||
| 24 | |||
| 25 | The beds in the hut were comfortable and we slept well. After a comical | ||
| 26 | incident with my dad's boots - he put on someone else's pair, not knowing | ||
| 27 | that I had brought his back into our room, and spent a good 15 minutes | ||
| 28 | searching for them - we are ready to leave the hut at 8:20. | ||
| 29 | |||
| 30 |  | ||
| 31 | <p align="center">*The Pisciadù lake and Piz Pisciadù (peak Pisciadù).*</p> | ||
| 32 | |||
| 33 | The days starts with a short but somewhat steep section of the trail. | ||
| 34 | There are some steel ropes and we use our simple harness once again, | ||
| 35 | although this time we felt we could have done without. | ||
| 36 | |||
| 37 | At 9:45 we reach what is likely the highest point of our route, | ||
| 38 | an anonymous plateau at 2960 meters on sea level. There are higher | ||
| 39 | points on some variations of the route, for example *Punta Penia* in the | ||
| 40 | [Marmolada](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmolada) massif, but we are | ||
| 41 | going to take a lower route, which is the more classical one according | ||
| 42 | to my guide book. | ||
| 43 | |||
| 44 | At this point, we are completely immersed in a sea of fog. It is quite | ||
| 45 | cold, probably only a couple of degrees above 0°C, and there is some | ||
| 46 | unpleasantly cold breeze. | ||
| 47 | |||
| 48 |  | ||
| 49 | <p align="center">*My dad resting on a rock, trying to keep warm.*</p> | ||
| 50 | |||
| 51 | The fog comes and goes, letting us see the beautiful panorama for | ||
| 52 | a few brief moments. | ||
| 53 | |||
| 54 |  | ||
| 55 | |||
| 56 | As we walk down from the plateau, my left knee starts hurting. It is | ||
| 57 | not unbearable, and it only hurts when I walk downhill. But it does | ||
| 58 | not bode well for the rest of the day: our next stop is 900m below us, | ||
| 59 | so we are going to walk downhill for most of the day. | ||
| 60 | |||
| 61 | At 10:30 we are on top of the *Antersass* (2906m), a minor peak next to | ||
| 62 | the more prominent [Piz Boè](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piz_Bo%C3%A8) | ||
| 63 | (3152m). We could have walked arount the Antersass, but the trail to | ||
| 64 | climb up to the top and then down is actually easier than the one that | ||
| 65 | goes around it. Going to the top of Piz Boè would have been an | ||
| 66 | interesting detour, but not quite feasible for our 9-day plan. | ||
| 67 | |||
| 68 | We reach [Rifugio Boè](https://www.rifugioboe.it), a recently renovated | ||
| 69 | hut at 2873m, before 11:00. | ||
| 70 | |||
| 71 |  | ||
| 72 | <p align="center"> | ||
| 73 | *A view of Piz Boè (peak Boè) from Rifugio Boè (Boè hut). The hut | ||
| 74 | on the top of Piz Boè is, perhaps confusingly, called | ||
| 75 | [Capanna Piz Fassa](https://www.rifugiocapannapizfassa.com/en/).* | ||
| 76 | </p> | ||
| 77 | |||
| 78 | We have now left Sout Tyrol. The rest of the Alta Via 2 route | ||
| 79 | roughly follows the border between the provinces of Trento and | ||
| 80 | Belluno. | ||
| 81 | |||
| 82 | We leave the hut at 11:20. The fog has returned, but it is not as | ||
| 83 | cold as before. | ||
| 84 | |||
| 85 | The trail to *Foržela Pordoi* (2848m) is mostly flat, and very crowded, | ||
| 86 | because of a cable car that makes it accessible even to families with | ||
| 87 | kids. I am not sure I like this kind of over-turism in in places that | ||
| 88 | would otherwise be hard to reach. | ||
| 89 | |||
| 90 | ## A painful descent | ||
| 91 | |||
| 92 | As we reach the foržela, the view opens up on a more diverse landscape | ||
| 93 | of grass, rock and forests. After a very short break, we start walking | ||
| 94 | down to the Pordoi Pass. | ||
| 95 | |||
| 96 | The descent is on a long and steep [scree](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scree). | ||
| 97 | I have never liked walking down this kind of trail, but now that my knee | ||
| 98 | is screaming for mercy I am really hating it. I would have rather walked it | ||
| 99 | up twice than down once. | ||
| 100 | |||
| 101 |  | ||
| 102 | <p align="center">*The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass.*</p> | ||
| 103 | |||
| 104 | We reach the [Pordoi Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pordoi_Pass) | ||
| 105 | at 13:30. I need a long break before continuining, so we decide to | ||
| 106 | lay down next to a tiny church just after the pass. | ||
| 107 | Luckily the weather is nice - or not terrible, at least - | ||
| 108 | and we can enjoy a nice view of the surroundings. | ||
| 109 | |||
| 110 |  | ||
| 111 | <p align="center">*The mountains surrounding the Pordoi Pass.*</p> | ||
| 112 | |||
| 113 |  | ||
| 114 | <p align="center"> | ||
| 115 | *The view in the direction of [Cianacei](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canazei).* | ||
| 116 | </p> | ||
| 117 | |||
| 118 | ## Her majesty, the Marmolada | ||
| 119 | |||
| 120 | At 14:10, after about 40 minutes of relax, we are ready to get up. | ||
| 121 | |||
| 122 | The walk up an easy trail among ski paths. Here too there are plenty of | ||
| 123 | turists, and I can't blame them for choosing to walk in such a beautiful | ||
| 124 | place. This is a very common touristic destination both in the Summer | ||
| 125 | and in the Winter. | ||
| 126 | |||
| 127 | We walk past a strange place called | ||
| 128 | [Rifugio Fredarola](https://www.fredarola.it/) (2370m), which looks | ||
| 129 | more like a night club you could find the center of Milan rather than | ||
| 130 | a mountain hut. They are even playing some electronic lounge music. | ||
| 131 | It's hard to describe, but it feels oddly out of place here. But for | ||
| 132 | people coming from a big city this is just what they expect to find here; | ||
| 133 | I guess it is a matter of points of view. | ||
| 134 | |||
| 135 | We continue on a wide, mostly flat trail. For now my knee is is doing | ||
| 136 | fine, but I am a bit scared for the descent that awaits us later today. | ||
| 137 | And finally we have a good view on the Marmolada, the Queen of the | ||
| 138 | Dolomites. | ||
| 139 | |||
| 140 |  | ||
| 141 | <p align="center"> | ||
| 142 | *The Marmolada, the highest mountain in the Dolomites, and its glacier. | ||
| 143 | At the feet of the massif you can see the | ||
| 144 | [Fedaia Lake](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fedaia_Lake), around which | ||
| 145 | there are a couple of huts, including the one where we are staying tonight. | ||
| 146 | In the distance you can see the | ||
| 147 | [Pelmo](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Pelmo) and the | ||
| 148 | [Civetta](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Civetta).* | ||
| 149 | </p> | ||
| 150 | |||
| 151 | We stop at [Rifugio Viel Dal Pan](https://www.rifugiovieldalpan.com/) | ||
| 152 | (2432m) for a short break at 15:30. From there, the steep descent towards | ||
| 153 | the Fedaia Pass (2054m) begins. My knee forces me to walk slowly, so by | ||
| 154 | the time we reach the pass it is already 17:30. | ||
| 155 | |||
| 156 | The day is almost concluded, but we have to walk to to opposite side | ||
| 157 | of the lake to [Rifugio Fedaia](https://www.rifugiofedaia.com/). The | ||
| 158 | closer [Rifugio Castiglioni](https://www.rifugiomarmolada.it/), where | ||
| 159 | we stop for a beer, was fully booked when we planned our trip. | ||
| 160 | |||
| 161 |  | ||
| 162 | |||
| 163 | We walk fast on the old road next to the lake, chatting with a local | ||
| 164 | resident who helps us keep up the pace. We arrive at our hotel at 18:05, | ||
| 165 | after almost 10 hours of hike (including breaks), and we are very happy | ||
| 166 | to find a comfortable room with private bathroom waiting for us. | ||
| 167 | |||
| 168 | This day was longer than we planned, partly because of my knee. | ||
| 169 | But the scenery was beautiful. | ||
| 170 | |||
| 171 | |[← Day 2](../day2)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 4 →](../day4)| | ||
| 172 | |:-|:-:|-:| | ||
