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day8.md (8364B)


      1 <table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr>
      2 	<th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day7">← Day 7</a> </th>
      3 	<th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th>
      4 	<th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day9">Day 9 →</a> </th>
      5 </tr> </thead> </table>
      6 
      7 # Day 8 - The Troi dei Caserin
      8 
      9 <p align="center"><em>August 27, 2025</em></p>
     10 
     11 ## Route of the day
     12 
     13 <details>
     14 <summary><strong>Click to see map</strong></summary>
     15 <img src="../img/27-0000-map.png">
     16 </details>
     17 
     18 *Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day8.gpx) or see the route on
     19 [outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/san-martino-di-castrozza-primiero-vanoi/-2025-alta-via-2-day-8/325543034/?share=%7E3zdmeu44%244ossqbdb)*
     20 
     21 ## A damp morning
     22 
     23 Today the final part of Alta Via 2 begins. We are entering the *Vette
     24 Feltrine*, a part that is perhaps less well-known by tourists, but no
     25 less beautiful. The trails we'll have to walk are going to be narrow,
     26 often steep.
     27 
     28 The weather forecasts for the day are not great, but we
     29 should reach [Rifugio Boz](https://www.rifugioboz.it/) (1718 meters
     30 on sea level) before it starts raining. For now there is just a thick fog,
     31 and the weather is unpleasantly hot and humid.
     32 
     33 ![Rifugio Cereda, with the Pala Group in the background](../img/27-0740-cereda.jpg)
     34 
     35 <p align="center"><em>Our last sight of Rifugio Cereda and the Pala Group.</em></p>
     36 
     37 We leave at 7:45. At first we walk on a secondary paved road, then on
     38 a dirt road.  Both my guide booklet and the signs try to make us walk
     39 downhill towards the nearby villages of Matiuz and Padreterno, but there
     40 is a clearly faster road that stays in the forest and leads to the
     41 start of the actual trail.
     42 
     43 ![Some signs, none pointing to where we are going](../img/27-0833-sign.jpg)
     44 
     45 <p align="center"><em>
     46 The top sign is marked as "AV2", for Alta Via 2. There is a gap that
     47 was probably filled by a sign pointing left, which is the way we took.
     48 I suspect someone - perhaps the local forest authorities - removed
     49 the sign because they did not want people to go that way, but I
     50 can't imagine why. Or perhaps the sign simply fell off.
     51 </em></p>
     52 
     53 After about one hour of walk in the forest, the actual trail begins.
     54 The humidity is very intense, still unpleasant. Unfortunately this also
     55 means that the pictures of the day are very... foggy.
     56 
     57 ![The valley in the fog](../img/27-0945-fog.jpg)
     58 
     59 <p align="center"><em>The valley behind us, in the fog.</em></p>
     60 
     61 ## L'Intaiàda
     62 
     63 The trail becomes steep, and then extremely steep. We walk along
     64 a vertical wall of granite, where a narrow passage is carved out.
     65 Indeed, this part of the trail is called *L'Intaiàda*, which
     66 can be roughly translated as *The Carved-Out*.
     67 
     68 ![L'Intaiàda](../img/27-1022-intaiada.jpg)
     69 
     70 <p align="center"><em>Admittedly not the best picture of L'Intaiàda.</em></p>
     71 
     72 The trail continues, narrow and exposed, but well equipped with some
     73 sturdy metal ropes where needed. It requires some attention, but I don't
     74 find it scary or particularly difficult; there is always some rock or
     75 support piece I can hang on to rest while I think about the next steps.
     76 
     77 ![Another section of L'Intaiàda](../img/27-1107-intaiada-2.jpg)
     78 
     79 <p align="center"><em>Another section of L'Intaiàda.</em></p>
     80 
     81 ![The steep trail](../img/27-1145-comedon.jpg)
     82 
     83 The trail continues very steep, and at 12:05 we reach the *Pass del
     84 Comedon* (2130m).
     85 
     86 ![View from the pass](../img/27-1209-comedon-2.jpg)
     87 
     88 <p align="center"><em>View from the pass.</em></p>
     89 
     90 ## A quick break at Bivacco Feltre
     91 
     92 From the pass we walk down an extremely steep trail, initially very
     93 exposed, then less scary.
     94 
     95 My left knee has been doing well so far, but suddently I feel an acute
     96 sting of pain that almost makes loose my balance. This is not good. It
     97 is also very different from the constant, mild to moderate pain that I
     98 have felt when walking downhill in the past few days. But I push through,
     99 slowly and steadily.
    100 
    101 The fog becomes even thicker, at times we can't see much farther than
    102 20-30 meters.
    103 
    104 ![We are close to Bivacco Feltre](../img/27-1254-fog.jpg)
    105 
    106 <p align="center"><em>We are close to Bivacco Feltre, but we can't see it.</em></p>
    107 
    108 For a brief moment I catch a glimpse of *Bivacco Feltre* (1930m), a
    109 [sheet metal shelter](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bivouac_shelter)
    110 where hikers can wait for the bad weather to subside, or spend the night
    111 in case of need.
    112 
    113 ![Bivacco Feltre](../img/27-1303-bivacco-feltre.jpg)
    114 
    115 <p align="center"><em>Bivacco Feltre.</em></p>
    116 
    117 We reach the bivouac at 13:05, and we decide to take a break. We eat
    118 a protein bar and refill our water bottles. Unfortunately, we can see
    119 literally nothing besides the meadow around us, and the fog.
    120 
    121 ![The view from Bivacco Feltre](../img/27-1319-fog-view.jpg)
    122 
    123 <p align="center"><em>
    124 Our view from Bivacco Feltre. The guide book describes the place
    125 as "pleasant and majestic". I guess I'll have to trust them on this one.
    126 </em></p>
    127 
    128 We need some rest, but we don't want to wait for too long. The journey
    129 is still long, and if we don't reach our destination before 17:00 we
    130 will probably be caught by the forecasted thunderstorm. We leave the
    131 bivouac at 13:30.
    132 
    133 ## The Troi dei Caserin
    134 
    135 From the shelter we walk down, loosing about 200 or 300 meters of
    136 altitude. We quickly gain them back, as the trail continues upwards.
    137 The fog is still very thick, we can't see further than 10m.
    138 
    139 The trail so far is not particuarly hard, but there are some interesting
    140 passages where we have to cross some waterfalls and some small water
    141 streams.  Or maybe I found them interesting only because my bad knee
    142 prevented me from pushing with my left leg and I had to make some complex
    143 alternative manouvers.
    144 
    145 ![A waterfall with a small pond](../img/27-1350-waterfall.jpg)
    146 
    147 At 14:50 we reach *Col dei Bech* (1960m), which means *Ibex' hill*.
    148 And in fact, just after Cold dei Bech, in one of the rare moments when
    149 the fog let us see at more than 15 meters, we did see a small family
    150 of chamois.  Ok, not quite ibex, but close enough.  Judging from the
    151 quantity of warm shit that we saw on the trail, they had probably walked
    152 right ahead of us for a while.
    153 
    154 We continue on this trail that becomes increasingly narrow and exposed,
    155 difficult in some sections. We are on the *Troi dei Caserin* ("the
    156 Caserins' trail").
    157 
    158 ![Troi dei Caserin](../img/27-1545-caserin.jpg)
    159 
    160 There are some steel ropes in the most dangerous parts, but not for
    161 long: soon we reach a grassy section, and the trail becomes ever
    162 more narrow. On our left, the emptiness of a hundred-meters free fall is
    163 hidden by the fog. My aching knee makes everything even more challenging.
    164 
    165 We did not take many pictures of this part of the journey, mainly because
    166 we were focusing on keeping our feet on the ground. Apparently, my dad
    167 and I walked this same trail some 15 years ago, when it was covered in
    168 half a meter of snow. And I say apparently because, even though we both
    169 remember that trip quite well, we have no recollection of taking such a
    170 dangerous path in those conditions. But there is no alternative road,
    171 so we must have done it... somehow.
    172 
    173 At 16:45 we reach *Pass de Mura* (1867m). The view opens up, but we
    174 can't quite see our destination yet.
    175 
    176 ![Malga Neva (not where we are going)](../img/27-1644-pass-de-mura.jpg)
    177 
    178 <p align="center"><em>
    179 You see the tiny building down there? It is not Rifugio
    180 Boz, but Malga Neva. Luckily for us, the Rifugio is closer than that.
    181 </em></p>
    182 
    183 We walk down from the pass and we reach [Rifugio
    184 Boz](https://www.rifugioboz.it/) (1718m) at 17:05. Just as we walk
    185 through the door, a strong storm begins.
    186 
    187 ## At Rifugio Boz
    188 
    189 We are tired, hungry and our muscles are sore. As we check in, the hut
    190 manager asks us if we are walking the Alta Via. We respond that yes,
    191 we are, and tomorrow we will be going all the way to [Rifugio Dal
    192 Piaz](https://www.rifugiodalpiaz.com), and we'll finally walk down
    193 victorious to Croce d'Aune in the evening.
    194 
    195 "Are you sure about that?" - she says.
    196 
    197 "Why?" - we ask, not sure if she was joking or not.
    198 
    199 "Have you seen the weather forecast?"
    200 
    201 <table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr>
    202 	<th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day7">← Day 7</a> </th>
    203 	<th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th>
    204 	<th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day9">Day 9 →</a> </th>
    205 </tr> </thead> </table>
    206 
    207 
    208 
    209 
    210 
    211