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authorSebastiano Tronto <sebastiano@tronto.net>2025-10-14 21:28:19 +0200
committerSebastiano Tronto <sebastiano@tronto.net>2025-10-14 21:28:19 +0200
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1<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr>
2 <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day5">← Day 5</a> </th>
3 <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th>
4 <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day7">Day 7 →</a> </th>
5</tr> </thead> </table>
6
7# Day 6 - The Farangole trail
8
9<p align="center"><em>August 25, 2025</em></p>
10
11## Route of the day
12
13<details>
14<summary><strong>Click to see map</strong></summary>
15<img src="../img/25-0000-map.png">
16</details>
17
18*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day6.gpx) or see the route on
19[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-6/325542632/?share=%7E3zdmb4fp%244ossqbdc)*
20
21## The starry night
22
23During the night I woke up and managed to catch a glimpse of a wonderful
24starry night, the likes of which I had never seen before.
25
26If you live in a place with a lot of light pollution, like every medium
27to large city in the World, seeing *a few* stars may already be an unusual
28experience. At the moment I live in a fairly small city, and we literally
29never see stars over here. We are lucky if we see Venus once in a while.
30
31But I grew up in a small village in a sparsely populated area, I *was*
32used to seeing skies full of stars at night. But this time, at 2500
33metres above sea level, in the middle of literally nowhere, the sky was
34soething else.
35
36I did not manage to take a good picture, sorry. I did not feel like
37going out in the freezing cold, and my phone's camera is probably not
38good enough anyway.
39
40## The Farangole pass
41
42At Rifugio Mulaz, the sun rises at 6:40 and sets at around 7:05.
43In the morning. Luckily for you, I got up early enough to catch
44the sunset.
45
46![The morning sunset](../img/25-0707-sunset.jpg)
47
48<p align="center"><em>
49Rifugio Mulaz is closely surrounded by high mountains. This is the
50only spot where you could see something in the distance. This time
51of the year, the sun rises from the peaks on the left of this picture,
52only to hide away behind those on the right a few minutes later.
53</em></p>
54
55It's a beautiful day, if only a bit cold. This time we get up earlier than
56usual and we are ready to leave at 7:15. The main challenge of the day
57is going to be the *Passo delle Farangole* (2932 meters on sea level),
58a high mountain pass not far from the hut. Our guide book even suggests
59a possible alternative route for less confident hikers, but we deemed
60it within our capabilities.
61
62After steep, but short, climb to *Forcella Margherita* (2655m) we reach a
63section of the trail that would not be particularly challenging, if
64not for the fact that the track is not well marked.
65
66![The trail after Forcella Margherita](../img/25-0740-after-forcella-margherita.jpg)
67
68<p align="center"><em>
69The trail after Forcella Margherita, right before the Farangole pass.
70</em></p>
71
72In fact, the traces of the hikers who missed the path are *more* visible
73than the actual trail, likely because said hikers made them more clear
74by backtracking their steps when they realized they were out of the
75trail. We do the same a couple of times.
76
77We soon reach the start of the equipped trail that leads to the pass,
78but it looks sketchy, so I decide to try climbing up the scree next to
79it. This was probably a mistake, so we soon turn left and attach our
80trusty ropes to the steel supports.
81
82![Me, climbing up to the Farangole Pass](../img/25-0830-up-to-farangole-pass.jpg)
83
84<p align="center"><em>Climbing up to the Farangole Pass.</em></p>
85
86The track is very steep, and at times
87[exposed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_%28heights%29), but the
88steel ropes and the other supporting material is in a good state.
89Overall, this famous Farangole Pass is easier than we expected.
90
91![My dad climbing down from the Farangole pass](../img/25-0851-down-from-farangole.jpg)
92
93<p align="center"><em>
94And down we go. The steel ladder looks like it ends in the void,
95but actually there is an extra steel beam protruding from the
96rock, and after that there is only a 60cm drop.
97</em></p>
98
99After clearing the pass at around 9:00, we feel satisfied and proud of
100ourselves. My knee does not even hurt anymore.
101
102Little did we now that the truly difficult part is the Farangole *trail*,
103which we'll have to go through later this morning. But for now, in our
104blissful ignorance, we enjoy the beautiful weather and we take plenty
105of pictures as we walk down from the pass.
106
107![North view, towards the pass](../img/25-0910-blue-sky.jpg)
108
109<p align="center"><em>
110The view North, towards the mountains we have just passed.
111</em></p>
112
113![A rocky plateau](../img/25-1009-rocky-plateau.jpg)
114
115<p align="center"><em>An imposing rocky plateau on the South.</em></p>
116
117![The view to the North-East](../img/25-1019-north-east.jpg)
118
119<p align="center"><em>The view to the North-East.</em></p>
120
121## The Farangole trail
122
123As the trail gets tight and very exposed, we realize that maybe
124*this* is the section the guide book was warning us about. We
125proceed carefully, attaching our home-made harness when a steel rope
126is available. Unfortunately, most of the trail is on a narrow ledge
127surrounded by grass and soft soil, where no piece of supporting material
128can be fixed. At least it is not wet today.
129
130![My dad walking on the Farangole trail](../img/25-1109-dad-farangole.jpg)
131
132<p align="center"><em>
133My dad walking on a narrow section of the Farangole trail.
134</em></p>
135
136![Anoher hiker](../img/25-1141-hiker.jpg)
137
138<p align="center"><em>Another hiker following us on the same trail.</em></p>
139
140Since this trail is challenging and dangerous, we have to keep
141constant focus on our steps and the way ahead of us. We have little
142time to relax and enjoy the beautiful view, and we take much fewer
143pictures than we did earlier.
144
145![View from the Farangole trail](../img/25-1158-view.jpg)
146
147<p align="center"><em>
148The view from the last part of the Farangole trail, towards
149the East. Soon we'll have to walk down to the dry bed of the
150river you can see at the bottom of this picture. The tiny line
151on the hill on the left is the Farangole trail.
152</em></p>
153
154At 12:30 we reach the bottom of *Valgrande* (*Pian dei Cantoni*, 2310m).
155
156## To Rifugio Rosetta and beyond
157
158The way up to Rifugio Rosetta is steep, but short. The previous
159part was not physically demanding, but it was dangerous and
160technically fairly challenging. I am relieved that now I can just
161let my legs bring me up, and I reach the hut at 13:05.
162
163![Rifugio Rosetta](../img/25-1321-rosetta.jpg)
164
165<p align="center"><em>Rifugio Rosetta</em></p>
166
167[Rifugio Rosetta](https://www.rifugiorosetta.it) (2581m) is easily
168reachable with a cable car, and because of this it is very crowded,
169similarly to the area around Piz Boè that we passed through on
170[day 3](../day3).
171
172This is a good time for a break, so we decide to sit down, drink
173a glass of [skiwasser](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skiwasser), and
174eat another slice of strüdel. Yes, we ate a lot of those. The one
175they serve in this hut is particularly good, with plenty of fresh
176fruit and pine nuts.
177
178We get up and leave the hut at 14:05. The weather gets cold and foggy,
179but luckily for us it won't last long. Our plan is to walk down until
180*Col de le Fede* (2200m) and then up again to *Pass dei Ball* (2433m).
181
182The way down is slow and tedious, and my knee starts hurting again.
183
184![Down from Rifugio Rosetta](../img/25-1519-down-from-rosetta.jpg)
185
186<p align="center"><em>Walking down from Rifugio Rosetta.</em></p>
187
188The way up to the pass is steep, and there is a long section equipped
189with a steel rope. But the equipped part is actually very easy compared
190to other similar trails that we have walked this morning and in the
191previous days.
192
193![My dad walking on the equipped trail](../img/25-1606-rope.jpg)
194
195<p align="center"><em>My dad walking on this equipped section.</em></p>
196
197After reaching Pass dei Ball, we walk down slowly to
198[Rifugio Pradidali](https://www.rifugiopradidali.com/eng/Home.html)
199(2278m), which we reach at 17:05.
200
201Later we would discover that there is an alternative route to
202go from Rosetta to Pradidali, which starts by walking up to the
203East and skips both the slow and tedious descent and the
204more steep section before Pass dei Ball. This alternative path was
205probably slightly easier, but it would not have saved us that much
206time and effort.
207
208The Pradidali is a nice hut, but there is no phone signal nor WiFi.
209The showers are still expensive, and when it is my turn the water boiler
210has run out of gas, and I can either wait for it to be replaced or do a
211freezing cold shower. I don't want to wait, so arctic shower here I come!
212
213<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr>
214 <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day5">← Day 5</a> </th>
215 <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th>
216 <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day7">Day 7 →</a> </th>
217</tr> </thead> </table>
218
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