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authorSebastiano Tronto <sebastiano@tronto.net>2025-09-27 15:41:27 +0200
committerSebastiano Tronto <sebastiano@tronto.net>2025-09-27 15:41:27 +0200
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Day 3
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1# Day 3 - TODO 1# Day 3 - A knee-breaking descent
2 2
3|[← Day 2](../day2)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 4 →](../day4)| 3|[← Day 2](../day2)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 4 →](../day4)|
4|:-|:-:|-:| 4|:-|:-:|-:|
@@ -9,5 +9,147 @@
9[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/alta-badia/-2025-alta-via-2-day-3/325541657/?share=%7E3zdmpbrn%244ossqbcq)* 9[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/alta-badia/-2025-alta-via-2-day-3/325541657/?share=%7E3zdmpbrn%244ossqbcq)*
10</p> 10</p>
11 11
12Our clothes are still wet by the time we wake up. The summer nights
13in the Alps are just too humid. But at least we can finally see some
14sun. The weather is going to be much better for the next few days.
15
16![View from the Pisciadù hut](../img/22-0702-pisciadu.jpg)
17<p align=center>*A beatiful view from the Pisciadù hut at dawn.*</p>
18
19The beds in the hut were comfortable and we slept well. After a comical
20incident with my dad's boots - he put on someone else's pair, not knowing
21that I had brought his back into our room, and spent a good 15 minutes
22searching for them - we are ready to leave the hut at 8:20.
23
24![The Pisciadù the lake and Piz Pisciadù](../img/22-0756-pisciadu-lake.jpg)
25<p align="center">*The Pisciadù lake and Piz Pisciadù (peak Pisciadù).*</p>
26
27The days starts with a short but somewhat steep section of the trail.
28There are some steel ropes and we use our simple harness once again,
29although this time we felt we could have done without.
30
31At 9:45 we reach what is likely the highest point of our route,
32an anonymous plateau at 2960 meters on sea level. There are higher
33points on some variations of the route, for example *Punta Penia* in the
34[Marmolada](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmolada) massif, but we are
35going to take a lower route, which is the more classical one according
36to my guide book.
37
38At this point, we are completely immersed in a sea of fog. It is quite
39cold, probably only a couple of degrees above 0°C, and there is some
40unpleasantly cold breeze.
41
42![My dad resting on a rock](../img/22-0946-fog.jpg)
43<p align="center">*My dad resting on a rock, trying to keep warm.*</p>
44
45The fog comes and goes, letting us see the beautiful panorama for
46a few brief moments.
47
48![Panorama](../img/22-1006-panorama.jpg)
49
50As we walk down from the plateau, my left knee starts hurting. It is
51not unbearable, and it only hurts when I walk downhill. But it does
52not bode well for the rest of the day: our next stop is 900m below us,
53so we are going to walk downhill for most of the day.
54
55At 10:30 we are on top of the *Antersass* (2906m), a minor peak next to
56the more prominent [Piz Boè](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piz_Bo%C3%A8)
57(3152m). We could have walked arount the Antersass, but the trail to
58climb up to the top and then down is actually easier than the one that
59goes around it. Going to the top of Piz Boè would have been an
60interesting detour, but not quite feasible for our 9-day plan.
61
62We reach [Rifugio Boè](https://www.rifugioboe.it), a recently renovated
63hut at 2873m, before 11:00.
64
65![Piz Boè](../img/22-1145-piz-boe.jpg)
66<p align="center">
67*A view of Piz Boè (peak Boè) from Rifugio Boè (Boè hut). The hut
68on the top of Piz Boè is, perhaps confusingly, called
69[Capanna Piz Fassa](https://www.rifugiocapannapizfassa.com/en/).*
70</p>
71
72We have now left Sout Tyrol. The rest of the Alta Via 2 route
73roughly follows the border between the provinces of Trento and
74Belluno.
75
76We leave the hut at 11:20. The fog has returned, but it is not as
77cold as before.
78
79The trail to *Foržela Pordoi* (2848m) is mostly flat, and very crowded,
80because of a cable car that makes it accessible even to families with
81kids. I am not sure I like this kind of over-turism in in places that
82would otherwise be hard to reach.
83
84The descent is on a long and steep [scree](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scree).
85I have never liked walking down this kind of trail, but now that my knee
86is screaming for mercy I am really hating it. I would have rather walked it
87up twice than down once.
88
89![The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass](../img/22-1236-pordoi-descent.jpg)
90<p align="center">*The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass.*</p>
91
92We reach the [Pordoi Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pordoi_Pass)
93at 13:30. I need some rest before continuing, so we decide to stop
94until 14:10. Luckily the weather is nice - or not terrible, at least -
95and we can enjoy a nice view of the surroundings.
96
97![View from the Pordoi Pass](../img/22-1358-pordoi-pass.jpg)
98<p align="center">*The mountains surrounding the Pordoi Pass.*</p>
99
100![View towards Canazei](../img/22-1431-canazei.jpg)
101<p align="center">
102*The view in the direction of [Cianacei](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canazei).*
103</p>
104
105The walk up an easy trail among ski paths. Here too there are plenty of
106turists, and I can't blame them for choosing to walk in such a beautiful
107place. This is a very common touristic destination both in the Summer
108and in the Winter.
109
110We walk past a strange place called
111[Rifugio Fredarola](https://www.fredarola.it/) (2370m), which looks
112more like a night club you could find the center of Milan rather than
113a mountain hut. They are even playing some electronic lounge music.
114It's hard to describe, but it feels oddly out of place here. But for
115people coming from a big city this is just what they expect to find here;
116I guess it is a matter of points of view.
117
118We continue on a wide, mostly flat trail. For now my knee is is doing
119fine, but I am a bit scared for the descent that awaits us later today.
120And finally we have a good view on the Marmolada, the Queen of the
121Dolomites.
122
123![Me in front of the Marmolada](../img/22-1510-marmolada.jpg)
124<p align="center">
125*The Marmolada, the highest mountain in the Dolomites, and its glacier.
126At the feet of the massif you can see the
127[Fedaia Lake](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fedaia_Lake), around which
128there are a couple of huts, including the one where we are staying tonight.
129In the distance you can see the
130[Pelmo](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Pelmo) and the
131[Civetta](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Civetta).*
132</p>
133
134We stop at [Rifugio Viel Dal Pan](https://www.rifugiovieldalpan.com/)
135(2432m) for a short break at 15:30. From there, the steep descent towards
136the Fedaia Pass (2054m) begins. My knee forces me to walk slowly, so by
137the time we reach the pass it is already 17:30.
138
139The day is almost concluded, but we have to walk to to opposite side
140of the lake to [Rifugio Fedaia](https://www.rifugiofedaia.com/). The
141closer [Rifugio Castiglioni](https://www.rifugiomarmolada.it/), where
142we stop for a beer, was fully booked when we planned our trip.
143
144![Fedaia Lake](../img/22-1730-fedaia.jpg)
145
146We walk fast on the old road next to the lake, chatting with a local
147resident who helps us keep up the pace. We arrive at our hotel at 18:05,
148after almost 10 hours of hike (including breaks), and we are very happy
149to find a comfortable room with private bathroom waiting for us.
150
151This day was longer than we planned, partly because of my knee.
152But the scenery was beautiful.
153
12|[← Day 2](../day2)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 4 →](../day4)| 154|[← Day 2](../day2)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 4 →](../day4)|
13|:-|:-:|-:| 155|:-|:-:|-:|

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