commit 8158f66bb4842defd222b0989af3a6f621be212b parent 63d34b144553b7a5c683125588912bea075ef6a9 Author: Sebastiano Tronto <sebastiano@tronto.net> Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2025 21:28:19 +0200 Added Alta Via 2 pages (hidden) Diffstat:
134 files changed, 36634 insertions(+), 234 deletions(-)
diff --git a/.gitignore b/.gitignore @@ -1,2 +1 @@ http -HTML-TIPS diff --git a/build.sh b/build.sh @@ -1,5 +1,7 @@ #!/bin/sh +basedir="$(pwd)" + recursivebuild() { local destdir=$(echo "$1" | sed 's|^src|http|') mkdir -p "$destdir" @@ -13,17 +15,35 @@ recursivebuild() { done } +# This function is currently unused, but we keep it in case we need to +# preprocess some m4 files. +mdpreprocess() { + file="$1" + if [ "$(echo "$file" | sed 's/.*\.//')" = "m4" ]; then + printf 'm4_include(macros.m4)m4_dnl\n%s\n' "$(cat "$file")" | \ + m4 -P -I "$basedir/utils" + else + cat "$file" + fi +} + copyfile() { file=$1 dest=$2 ind=$dest/index.html extension=$(echo "$file" | sed 's/.*\.//') case "$extension" in + # m4 preprocess is currently disabled + #m4) + # noext=$(echo "$file" | sed 's/\..*//') + # mdpreprocess "$file" > $noext.md + # ;; md) t="$(markdowntitle "$file")" sed "s/TITLE/$t/" < top.html > "$ind" - lowdown --html-no-skiphtml --html-no-escapehtml \ - "$file" >> "$ind" + mdpreprocess "$file" | \ + lowdown --html-no-skiphtml --html-no-escapehtml \ + >> "$ind" cat bottom.html >> "$ind" ;; html) diff --git a/src/av2/after/after.md b/src/av2/after/after.md @@ -0,0 +1,83 @@ +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day9">← Day 9</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href=""></a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + +# After the hike + +## Back home + +*August 28, 2025* + +My dad's cousin came to pick us up. As we got into the car, the +storm started. From there, it kept raining the whole afternoon. Not +coninuously, it came and went, but when it was there it was +very strong. The bad weather continued for a couple of days. + +We made a good call ending our trip early. + +## Celebration + +*August 29, 2025* + +Some of the people we met along the way arrived in Feltre on the next +day. Like use, they could not properly finish the Alta Via, as the bad +weather caught them when they arrived at Passo Cereda. + +We decided to meet for a dinner all together at [Birreria +Pedavena](https://www.labirreriapedavena.it/), the largest brewery in +Italy, which is conveniently located between Croce d'Aune and Feltre. In +fact, if you walk Alta Via 2 all the way to Feltre, you pass right in +front of the Birreria. + + + +## Award + +*September 2, 2025* + +Upon completing Alta Via 2, hikers can receive an official pin. It is +awarded by the tourist office in Feltre, where they can also +add their name to the book of "finishers". + +As you know, we did not complete the full Alta Via. But since Feltre is +just around the corner, we thought why not go there and ask? In the end, +the exact route of Alta Via 2 is not set in stone. + +It turns out that, according to the guidelines laid out by the Italian +Alpine Club, reaching Rifugio Boz is enough to officially complete Alta +Via 2 and be called a finisher! + + + +Indeed, they know that the last leg of the hike is often skipped due to +bad weather. Ending the journey at Passo Cereda, however, is not enough. + +So now we also have some official recognition for our effort. Cool! + +## Farewell to the mountains + +*September 3, 2025* + +After the hike I spent a few days at home with my family. But now it is +time to go back to the flat lands, where I have been living for the past +few years. + +My flight back to Amsterdam, as it sometimes does, flew right over the +Dolomites. I was able to recognize not only my home town, but also many of +the mountains and valleys my dad and I walked through just a week earlier. + + + +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day9">← Day 9</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href=""></a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + + + + + + diff --git a/src/av2/av2.md b/src/av2/av2.md @@ -0,0 +1,37 @@ +# Alta Via 2 + + + +[Alta Via 2](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alta_Via_2) is high mountain +route in the [Dolomites](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolomites). It goes +from [Brixen](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brixen), in South Tyrol, to +[Feltre](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feltre), the city where I was born. +With its 180km of lenght and around 10000 meters of altitude gain, it +requires multiple days to complete, with most guides suggesting a 12- +or 13-day itinerary. + +In August 2025, my father and I completed this route, walking for +9 consecutive days. In these pages I am going to tell you about +this adventure, and share some of the pictures that we took. +If you are interested in hiking similar routes, you may find +some useful information here, but I am not aiming at writing a +technical description of the hike. If you are just interested +in watching the pictures, you can find them in [this google drive +folder](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dVb3_vxpRhcRsMq5lOmuu-DCY0bE01pD) +(until I figure out a good way to host them on this website). + +Note: in order to limit the size of this website, the pictures you find +in these pages are scaled down. Follow the link above for full-quality +pictures. + +* [Preparation](./preparation) +* [Day 1 - The Odles in the rain](./day1) +* [Day 2 - Trail 666](./day2) +* [Day 3 - A knee-breaking descent](./day3) +* [Day 4 - The forest and the pastures](./day4) +* [Day 5 - Entering the Pala group](./day5) +* [Day 6 - The Farangole trail](./day6) +* [Day 7 - The longest day](./day7) +* [Day 8 - The Troi dei Caserin](./day8) +* [Day 9 - Cutting it short](./day9) +* [After the hike](./after) diff --git a/src/av2/day1/day1.md b/src/av2/day1/day1.md @@ -0,0 +1,157 @@ +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../preparation">← Preparation</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day2">Day 2 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + +# Day 1 - The Odles in the rain + +<p align="center"><em>August 20, 2025</em></p> + +## Route of the day + +<details> +<summary><strong>Click to see map</strong></summary> +<img src="../img/20-0000-map.png"> +</details> + +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day1.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/eisacktal/-2025-alta-via-2-day-1/325540727/?share=%7E3zdmcd3i%244ossqbct).* + +## The road to Kreutztal + +Our first day starts quite early, as we wake up at 5:15. My uncle is +giving us a car ride to Kreutztal, which will take a little more than +3 hours. We leave at 5:55. + +We drive up the Cordevole valley, a road that reminds me of the +many hikes I used to do in the Dolomites, usually starting from the +[Falzarego pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falzarego_Pass), +hiking around the [Tofane](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tofane), +the [Cinque Torri](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinque_Torri), +[Averau](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Averau) and others. +But we are not going there this time. + +The road itself is quite scenic. Sorry, I did not +take any pictures pictures. Going North, we drive +through popular touristic destinations like Arabba and +[Corvara](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corvara%2C_South_Tyrol). +But these small towns leave a weird impression on me, as they are made +up mostly of hotels and a few restaurants and bars - all closed because +it is too early for turists to wake up. Are these places just holiday +resorts now? + +Just before we reach Kreutztal, our starting point, it starts raining. + +## The hike begins + + + +<p align="center"><em>My dad and I, ready to start hiking.</em></p> + +By the time we reach Kreutztal (2000 meters on sea level), park the car +and put on our rain clothes, it is already 9:30. And this is going to +be one of the longest days, at least according to our estimates. + +The [Plosehütte](https://www.plosehuette.com/en/) (2447m) is not +far, and we reach it pretty quickly. Unfortunately, it is closed for +renovations, and we can't even get close enough to take a picture of +our first checkpoint. + +At least the view from up there is... something. + + + +<p align="center"><em>The <a +href="https://www.val-gardena.com/en/dolomites/geisler-mountain-group">Odles</a> +surrounded by clouds.</em></p> + +The clouds came and went, but this is pretty much the clearest the +skies have been the whole morning. Besides the cold and the rain being +unpleasant, the low visibility gave us some technical difficulties: +right after passing by the hut, we found ourselves on a grassy slope and +we lost the track. In normal conditions we would have been able to look +out for the next trail marking, but with this thick fog we were forced +to double check our GPS and our maps. + +## Down through the forest, then up again + +Luckily, it did not take us long to find the right way, and we kept +descending in a [larch](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Larch) forest. + + + +<p align="center"><em>A trail in a forest between Plosehütte and +Schlüterhütte - Rifugio Genova.</em></p> + +The descent is pleasant. We even manage to catch some break from the +heavy rain, and take a few more pictures of the Odles. + + + +We reach the Rodella Pass (1867m) at around 13:00, +and from there we walk up to [Schlüterhutte - Rifugio +Genova](https://www.schlueterhuette.com/en/) (2297m). I did not take +many notes of this part of the journey, there was too much rain for me +to take out my journal and write. + +As the trail is crossed by a stream of water, we have to pass a short +challenging section, where we are forced to climb on the wet rock. +The climb itself is not hard, but the trail is not clearly marked at +that point, which left us wondering if we were doing the right thing. + +We are then blocked by a more difficult trail feature: cows. + + + +<p align="center"><em>Cows are blocking the road. Yes, that little gap is +the only way forward.</em></p> + +After overcoming this zoological obstacle, we reached the +Schlüterhütte - Rifugio Genova at 16:00 and we stop for a slice of +[*Apfelstrudel*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_strudel). + + + +<p align="center"><em>Rifugio Genova - Schlüterhütte in the fog.</em></p> + +## The long descent to the village + +At 6 hours and 30 minutes of hiking, this would have been a good first +day. But unfortunately we cannot stop here. At 16:30 we begin the long +descent towards Lungiarü (1398m). + + + +<p align="center"><em>Down there, that's where we have to go. Do you see +it? Me neither.</em></p> + +We walk for two hours in the rain and the fog before reaching the +village. Two hours may not sound like much, but it felt like an eternity. + +Just before the village, we pass by a place called +[*Val di Morins*](https://www.alta-badia.org/en/highlights/sights/val-di-morins-mill-valley/), +which means "Mill Valley" in Ladin. + + +<p align="center"><em> +A watermill. In this area it was common to build half-pipes +with larch trunks to lead the water to the mill. +</em></p> + +The village of Lungiarü, in [Val +Badia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Val_Badia), is quite nice, but we +have no energy left for sightseeing. All we can do before falling asleep +is a shower, dinner, and trying to dry our clothes for the next day. + +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../preparation">← Preparation</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day2">Day 2 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + + + + + + diff --git a/src/av2/day2/day2.md b/src/av2/day2/day2.md @@ -0,0 +1,194 @@ +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day1">← Day 1</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day3">Day 3 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + +# Day 2 - Trail 666 + +<p align="center"><em>August 21, 2025</em></p> + +## Route of the day + +<details> +<summary><strong>Click to see map</strong></summary> +<img src="../img/21-0000-map.png"> +</details> + +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day2.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/alta-badia/-2025-alta-via-2-day-2/325541331/?share=%7E3zdmlslt%244ossqbcn)* + +## The beginning of a long day + +According to our plan, this second day is going to be the toughest. +Our planned route consists of more than 1700m of altitude gain, which +would already be quite a long hike for a single day, leave alone for one +out of 9 consecutive days of walking. Moreover, the weather forecasts +for the day are not good - there is a chance of thunderstorms in the +afternoon. + +Luckily we find someone willing to give us a car ride from our B&B to +the edge of the village, saving us about one hour of walk. We start +walking at around 8:30. + +The first part of the trail is not very steep, and the weather is +not too bad either. We even manage to see some mountains! + + + +<p align="center"><em>The Puez-Odle group.</em></p> + +In about an hour we reach *malga Antersasc* (2084m on sea +level). Around this small abandoned building we see a few +[chamois](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamois) and some very fat +[marmots](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmot) - seriously, those +things were huge! Unfortunately all the pictures I took were terrible, +you need some pretty good camera to catch them from a distance. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +Sorry for the lack of marmot pictures. Here +is a shot of myself staring at a tree growing on top of a rock instead. +</em></p> + +After a short break, we get back on the trail and start walking towards +the [Puez hut](https://www.rifugiopuez.it/en/). We could already tell +from the map that the trail up to *forcella Puez* (2500m), before the +hut, was going to be very steep. However, we found it to be very well +maintained, which made it easier than we expected. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +The trail up to forcella Puez is reinforced with some trunks that +turn it almost into a staircase.</em></p> + +Unfortunately, as we walked up, the weather got much worse. +We were forced to wear all our rain clothes again, including gloves. + +We reach the Puez hut (2447m) at 11:20, earlier than planned. We take +some time to rest and try to dry up from the rain; I change my socks +and t-shirt, which definitely helps. + +## The forgotten Forcellas + +(*Forcella* is an Italian term that denotes a tight mountain pass, usually +only reachable via a steep trail. I will sometimes use the Italian word +because I don't know an exact equivalent in English. For proper nouns I +may also use the equivalent word in the local language: *Furcella* or +*Jeuf* in [Ladin](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ladin_language), +*Joch* in German, *Foržela* in +[Venetian](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venetian_language).) + +We start walking again around 12:00, and it is immediately clear that we +have made a small miscalculation in planning the route. We thought +that the trail to [Gardena Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gardena_Pass) +would be straight downhill, but actually we'll have to climb up and then +down a couple of tight passes: *Furcella de Ciampei* (2366m) and *Jeuf de +Crespëina* (2528m). This is easily going to cancel out the time we gained +in the morning. Fortunately, this part of the trail is quite pleasant to +walk, if at times steep; the weather is also not too bad, as we only have +to bear some light rain. + + + +As we are about to reach Gardena Pass (2136m), a strong storm begins. +I speed up to take shelter in a hut down at the pass, leaving my dad +a few minutes behind. I reach the pass at 14:35. + +## One hell of a trail + +The outlook for the last part of the day is bleak, to say the least. +Thunderstorms are forecast until late in the evening. There is likely +going to be a small windows of good weatehr between 16:00 and 17:00, but +it is not going to last long enough to reach the Pisciadù hut, where we +are going to sleep. We have to choose between leaving immediately under +the heavy rain hoping it stops while we are on the way, or waiting for +the first wave of the storm to pass but risking it starting again +before we reach our destination. + +We choose the former, because it was our best chance to arrive at the +hut before it gets dark. Moreover, despite the forecast of thunder and +lightning, so far it is just raining heavily, which although unpleasant +is not dangerous. + +We leave the pass at around 15:00, under the storm. The ascent is not +steep at first. Luckily, as predicted, after about one hour the rain +stops. + + + +<p align="center"><em>Our last view of Gardena Pass and the Odle group, +on the way up to the Pisciadù hut.</em></p> + +But then we reach the infamous trail 666. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +The beginning of trail 666. This is not a nickname, it is +the actual number that the <a href="https://www.cai.it"> +Italian Alpine Club</a> gave to this trail. +</em></p> + +Actually, this is the easiest of two +possible ways to the Pisciadù, the other being the [Ferrata +Tridentina](https://www.alta-badia.org/en/leisure-activities/climbing-and-mountaineering/brigata-tridentina-route/). +The booklet I am following describes it as "[...] reserved for +well-equipped experts. Don't do it with heavy backpacks; don't do it if +the weather is not good." We get at 0 out 3, the thought of taking the +[via ferrata](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata) does not not +even cross our minds. + +So trail 666 it is. This trail is also known as *Setus trail*, or somewhat +improperly *Setus via ferrata*. It is extremely steep and it is more a +climb than a walk, but it is not a via ferrata. Most maps describe it +as *sentiero attrezzato* (equipped trail), as it does have some fixed +steel rope and handles where climbers can hang a safety rope. + +We have some simple ropes equipped with a +[Carabiner](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carabiner), and we decide to +use them. In the following days we would talk with other people who +took the same route, and some of them would claim that a rope is not +necessary on this trail. I don't care, I was relieved to have my trusty +rope, especially considering the bad weather and how tired I was after +more than 8 hours of hiking (plus the 9 hours of the previous day). And +a safety rope is certainly of no use if kept in the backpack. + + + +<p align="center"><em>Trail 666 is really steep.</em></p> + +Overall, the steel rope and the handles are of great help, and although +a couple of times I was unsure where to put my feet and I almost slept, +I would not consider this trail dangerous, if one is properly equipped. + +The reason I found this trail hard was its *length*. I seriously had some +difficulties caused by how tired I was and how sore my muscles were, +after two full days of hike. Sometimes I could not complete a step or +an arm movement on the first try because I just did not have the enough +strength to push or pull up. And the trail just kept going! + +But at 17:30, exhausted but satisfied, we finally reach the top of this +climb. The Pisciadù hut (2587m) is just around the corner. + + + +<p align="center"><em>My dad at the end of trail 666.</em></p> + +We, our clothes and our boots are still wet from all the rain we caught +earlier in the day. Let's hope everything dries up during the night. + +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day1">← Day 1</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day3">Day 3 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + + + + + + diff --git a/src/av2/day3/day3.md b/src/av2/day3/day3.md @@ -0,0 +1,194 @@ +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day2">← Day 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day4">Day 4 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + +# Day 3 - A knee-breaking descent + +<p align="center"><em>August 22, 2025</em></p> + +## Route of the day + +<details> +<summary><strong>Click to see map</strong></summary> +<img src="../img/22-0000-map.png"> +</details> + +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day3.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/alta-badia/-2025-alta-via-2-day-3/325541657/?share=%7E3zdmpbrn%244ossqbcq)* + +## The lunar path to Rifugio Boè + +Our clothes are still wet by the time we wake up. The summer nights +in the Alps are just too humid. But at least we can finally see some +sun. The weather is going to be much better for the next few days. + + + +<p align="center"><em>A beatiful view from the Pisciadù hut at dawn.</em></p> + +The beds in the hut were comfortable and we slept well. After a comical +incident with my dad's boots - he put on someone else's pair, not knowing +that I had brought his into our room, and spent a good 15 minutes +searching for them - we are ready to leave the hut at 8:20. + + + +<p align="center"><em>The Pisciadù lake and Piz Pisciadù (peak Pisciadù).</em></p> + +The day starts with a short but somewhat steep section of the trail. +There are some steel ropes and we use our simple harness once again, +although this time we felt we could have done without. + +At 9:45 we reach what is likely the highest point of our route, +an anonymous plateau at 2960 meters on sea level. There are higher +points on some variations of the route, for example *Punta Penia* in the +[Marmolada](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmolada) massif, but in that +section we are going to take a lower trail, which is the more classical +one according to my guide book. + +At this point, we are completely immersed in a sea of fog. It is quite +cold, probably only a couple of degrees above 0°C, and there is some +unpleasantly cold breeze. + + + +<p align="center"><em>My dad resting on a rock, trying to keep warm.</em></p> + +The fog comes and goes, letting us see the beautiful panorama for a few +brief moments. + + + +As we walk down from the plateau, my left knee starts hurting. It is +not unbearable, and it only hurts when I walk downhill. But it does +not bode well for the rest of the day: our next stop is 900m below us, +so we are going to walk downhill for most of the day. + +At 10:30 we are on top of the *Antersass* (2906m), a minor peak next to +the more prominent [Piz Boè](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piz_Bo%C3%A8) +(3152m). We could have walked around the Antersass, but the trail to +climb up to the top and then down is actually easier. Going to the top +of Piz Boè would have been an interesting detour, but not quite feasible +for our 9-day plan. + +We reach [Rifugio Boè](https://www.rifugioboe.it), a recently renovated +hut at 2873m, before 11:00. + + + +<p align="center"><em> A view of Piz Boè (peak Boè) from Rifugio Boè (Boè +hut). The hut on the top of Piz Boè is, perhaps confusingly, called <a +href="https://www.rifugiocapannapizfassa.com/en">Capanna Piz Fassa</a>. +</em></p> + +We have now left Sout Tyrol. The rest of the Alta Via 2 route roughly +follows the border between the provinces of Trento and Belluno. + +We leave the hut at 11:20. The fog has returned, but it is not as cold +as before. + +The trail to *Foržela Pordoi* (2848m) is mostly flat, and very crowded, +because of a cable car that makes it accessible even to families with +kids. I am not sure I like this kind of over-turism in places that +would otherwise be hard to reach. + +## A painful descent + +As we reach the foržela, the view opens up on a more diverse landscape +of grass, rock and forests. After a very short break, we start walking +down to the Pordoi Pass. + +The descent is on a long and steep +[scree](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scree). I have never liked walking +down this kind of trail, but now that my knee is screaming for mercy I am +really hating it. I would have rather walked it up twice than down once. + + + +<p align="center"><em>The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass.</em></p> + +We reach the [Pordoi Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pordoi_Pass) +at 13:30. I need a long break before continuing, so we decide to lay +down next to a tiny church just after the pass. Luckily the weather +is nice - or not terrible, at least - and we can enjoy a nice view of +the surroundings. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sella_group">Sella group</a> +from the Pordoi Pass.</em></p> + + + +<p align="center"><em>The view in the direction of <a +href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canazei">Cianacei</a>.</em></p> + +## Her majesty, the Marmolada + +At 14:10, after about 40 minutes of relax, we are ready to get up. + +We walk up an easy trail among ski paths. Here too there are plenty of +turists, and I can't blame them for choosing to walk in such a beautiful +place. This is a very common touristic destination both in the Summer +and in the Winter. + +We walk past a strange place called [Rifugio +Fredarola](https://www.fredarola.it/) (2370m), which looks more like +a night club you could find the center of Milan rather than a mountain +hut. They are even playing some electronic lounge music. It's hard to +describe, but it feels oddly out of place here. But maybe for people +coming from a big city this is just what they expect to find here; +I guess it is a matter of points of view. + +We continue on a wide, mostly flat trail. For now my knee is is doing +fine, but I am a bit scared for the descent that awaits us later today. +And finally we have a good view on the Marmolada, the Queen of the +Dolomites. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmolada">Marmolada</a>, +the highest mountain in the +Dolomites, and its glacier. At the feet of the massif you can +see the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fedaia_Lake">Fedaia +lake</a>, around which there are a couple of huts, including the one +where we are staying tonight. In the distance you can see the <a +href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Pelmo">Pelmo</a> and the <a +href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Civetta">Civetta</a>. +</em></p> + +We stop at [Rifugio Viel Dal Pan](https://www.rifugiovieldalpan.com/) +(2432m) for a short break at 15:30. From there, the steep descent towards +the Fedaia Pass (2054m) begins. My knee forces me to walk slowly, so by +the time we reach the pass it is already 17:30. + +The day is almost concluded, but we have to walk to the opposite side of +the lake to [Rifugio Fedaia](https://www.rifugiofedaia.com/). The closer +[Rifugio Castiglioni](https://www.rifugiomarmolada.it/), where we stop +for a beer, was fully booked when we planned our trip. + + + +We walk fast on the old road next to the lake, chatting with a local +resident who helps us keep up the pace. We arrive at our hotel at 18:05, +after almost 10 hours of hike (including breaks), and we are very happy +to find a comfortable room with private bathroom waiting for us. + +This day was longer than we planned, partly because of my knee. But the +scenery was beautiful. + +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day2">← Day 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day4">Day 4 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + + + + + + diff --git a/src/av2/day4/day4.md b/src/av2/day4/day4.md @@ -0,0 +1,136 @@ +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day3">← Day 3</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day5">Day 5 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + +# Day 4 - The forest and the pastures + +<p align="center"><em>August 23, 2025</em></p> + +## Route of the day + +<details> +<summary><strong>Click to see map</strong></summary> +<img src="../img/23-0000-map.png"> +</details> + +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day4.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-4/325541990/?share=%7E3zdmunnm%244ossqbcs)* + +## To Malga Ciapèla and Forca Rossa + +Our fourth day starts at 8:20, with a steep descent on a ski path. +My knee stil hurts, and this points I am afraid I may have to +deal with it for the rest of the trip. + +At 9:30 we pass Malga Ciapela (1450 meters on sea level) and we start +walking up again. Soon we find an enigmatic sign which is apparently +trying to communicate that going left or right leads to the same places. + + + +<p align="center"><em>The confusing sign.</em></p> + +We spend like 5 minutes figuring this out, and we choose to go left. + +The path is not steep and walking in the forest is enojyable. Since we +are at a lower altitude than we have been for most of the other days, +it is also much warmer than what we got used to. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +A view from the forest, on the way up from Malga Ciapèla to Forca Rossa. +</em></p> + +The forest soon leaves space to grassy slopes and naked rock. The way +up is still pleasant, and we have met almost no other hiker so far - +in stark contrast with the previous day. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +The lower clay-red peak on the center-left of the picture is Forca Rossa, +where we are headed. "Rossa" in Italian means "red" - it's nice when things +are what their name says they are, isn't it? +</em></p> + +We arrive at *Forca Rossa* (2500m) at 13:05. Only in the last few minutes +my knee gave me some problems, but it is not so bad that it makes me +want to stop. + +Here at the top of this trail there are all the hikers that we did not +meet on the way up; they probably came from the other side. There must +be some kind of force field blocking tourists from entering the province +of Belluno. + + + +<p align="center"><em>View from Forca Rossa to the Belluno side.</em></p> + + + +<p align="center"><em>My dad and I chilling - quite literally, because of the wind.</em></p> + + + +<p align="center"><em>View from Forca Rossa to the Trentino side.</em></p> + +## Walking down green pastures + +There is a great view on both sides of this pass, but the wind is cold +and strong and we are not keen on staying long. After eating a couple +of protein bars and taking many pictures, we start walking down towards +Fuciade at 13:40. + + + +<p align="center"><em>Walking down to Fuciade.</em></p> + +The way down is quite relaxing. We walk among green pastures, where +cows and horses grazed freely. That is, until they are less romantically +slaughtered to make [Bresaola](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bresaola). +But until then they can enjoy the green grass. + +At 15:00 we reach Fuciade (1982m), a location where many families with +kids were relaxing after a meal at [the hut](https://www.fuciade.it/en/). +If one wants a more quiet place, a short walk up the trail that we were +descending quickly leads away from the crowd. This place gave a sense +of tranquillity. + + + +<p align="center"><em>Me relaxing in Fuciade while I enjoy a glass of +<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shandy#Radler">radler</a> +- don't be fooled by the Coca-Cola can.</em></p> + +After a short short break, we move to +[Rifugio Flora Alpina](https://floralpina.it) (1800m), that we reach +quickly at around 16:00. The place is surrounded by the forest, +and the only visible peaks are the +[Mulaz](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mulaz) and the +[Focobón group](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruppo_del_Focobon). + + + +<p align="center"><em> +A spectacular view of the Mulaz and the Focobón group. As the light +changed and the clouds moved, the colors changed as well. I spent quite +some time just sitting outside the hut, admiring these mountains. +</em></p> + +Now, for the first time since we started our journey, we have some time +to relax before dinner. We enjoy a sauna and a hot tub. + +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day3">← Day 3</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day5">Day 5 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + + + + + + diff --git a/src/av2/day5/day5.md b/src/av2/day5/day5.md @@ -0,0 +1,156 @@ +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day4">← Day 4</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day6">Day 6 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + +# Day 5 - Entering the Pala group + +<p align="center"><em>August 24, 2025</em></p> + +## Route of the day + +<details> +<summary><strong>Click to see map</strong></summary> +<img src="../img/24-0000-map.png"> +</details> + +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day5.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-5/325542248/?share=%7E3zdmwhgp%244ossqbdb)* + +## Back on track + + + +<p align="center"><em> +This photo is the same at the last one of the previous day, +but it is one of my best shots. It is also quite fascinating how the light +at dawn mixes up all the colors compared to previous day's picture. +</em></p> + +After a long sleep, we are ready to leave Flora Alpina at 8:20. Our +first checkpoint is the +[San Pellegrino Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Pellegrino_Pass), +(1918 meters on sea level) which is unfortunately a bit farther away than +it would have been if we slept in Fuciade. + +It takes us about one hour to reach the pass. On the way we saw a cow +breastfeeding her calf, which was cute. We cross the main road on the pass, +and from here we have to walk up on grassy slopes and ski paths. The +signs point to a path that is not the one we planned, but the two tracks +join shortly afterwards. The ski paths are extremely steep, but wide, +so we can easily zig-zag all the way up. + +At 10:30 we reach the *Pale di Gargol* (2218m), a plane that I am not +sure why deserves a name. Perhaps the name refers to the whole area +which I guess could be described as a rocky meadow. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +The Pale di Gargol. The term "pala" means "shovel" in Italian, +but according to the +<a href="https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pale_di_San_Martino#Il_toponimo"> +Italian Wikipedia page</a> about the +<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pala_group">Pale di San Martino</a> +mountains, in the local language it once denoted a grassy slope at the +feet of a mountain range. +</em></p> + +Once again, the landscape has changed to show us something completely +different from that we have seen so far. The constant shifting from rocks, +to forest, to grass, to yet other types of rock and any combination of +those features is in my opinion one of the most fascinating aspects of +Alta Via 2. + + + +<p align="center"><em>Walking down to Passo Valles. +In the background, the Pale di San Martino.</em></p> + +The trail continues almost flat in this unusual scenery until we +descend to [Passo Valles](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passo_Valles) (2032m) +at around 11:50. We are now entering the fascinating section of +the *Pale di San Martino*, also known in English as the +[Pala group](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pala_group), of which +the Mulaz and the Focobón group are the northernmost peaks. + +But first we need a break. We stop at a bar on the pass for a coffee +and a slice of strüdel. + +## Veneggia, Venegiotta and Pass dei Fochet + +We leave the pass at 12:20, and in half an hour we reach Forcella +Veneggia (2217m). The view opens up to the wild valley in the south. + + + +<p align="center"><em>The view from Forcella Veneggia.</em></p> + +So far, the day has not been particularly challenging. Later on +we'll have to pass some difficult sections, but for now we continue +on some easy, if narrow, trails. + +Despite the beauty of the place, we don't meet many other hikers. +In fact, I think we saw more marmots than people in this part of +the route. + + + +At around 14:00 we reach *Passo Venegiotta* (2300m), and about 30 minutes +later *Passo dei Fochet* (2291m). The weather has been good today so far, +but here a strong cold wind starts blowing, and we can feel a few drops +of rain. + +## Through the rocks, to Rifugio Mulaz + +The landscape changes once again. We are now walking on rocks and gravel. + + + +We walk down a scree to around 2175m, before starting to climb up again. +It's cold and cloudy, and this part of the trail is a fair bit more +difficult than the previous. Nothing particularly hard or dangerous, +but we have to pay more attention to where we put our feet. + +The trail abruptly becomes extremely steep, and very demanding on my +muscles, which so far had been enjoying a more relaxing day. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +Some steel ropes help make the climb to Rifugio Mulaz less dangerous. +</em></p> + +We reach Rifugio Mulaz (2570m) at 16:40, after a little more +than 8 hours from when we left Flora Alpina. Somehow, despite the +long walk between them, both these places are in the territory of +[Falcade](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falcade). + + + +<p align="center"><em>Reaching Rifugio Mulaz</em></p> + +From this hut, the only landscape you can see, in any direction, is naked +rock. There is a tiny window from where you can see a valley, but the +sight is cut out and the only visible thing is more rocks. Definitely +fascinating, although I personally prefer more varied landscapes. + +I'll add a picture on the next day's page, the early morning light +was much better. + +Oh and by the way, up here every resource is very scarce. There is +no drinkable tap water, and showers cost 8€ for 5 minutes. But I +really need one today. + +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day4">← Day 4</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day6">Day 6 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + + + + + + diff --git a/src/av2/day6/day6.md b/src/av2/day6/day6.md @@ -0,0 +1,223 @@ +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day5">← Day 5</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day7">Day 7 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + +# Day 6 - The Farangole trail + +<p align="center"><em>August 25, 2025</em></p> + +## Route of the day + +<details> +<summary><strong>Click to see map</strong></summary> +<img src="../img/25-0000-map.png"> +</details> + +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day6.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-6/325542632/?share=%7E3zdmb4fp%244ossqbdc)* + +## The starry night + +During the night I woke up and managed to catch a glimpse of a wonderful +starry night, the likes of which I had never seen before. + +If you live in a place with a lot of light pollution, like every medium +to large city in the World, seeing *a few* stars may already be an unusual +experience. At the moment I live in a fairly small city, and we literally +never see stars over here. We are lucky if we see Venus once in a while. + +But I grew up in a small village in a sparsely populated area, I *was* +used to seeing skies full of stars at night. But this time, at 2500 +metres above sea level, in the middle of literally nowhere, the sky was +soething else. + +I did not manage to take a good picture, sorry. I did not feel like +going out in the freezing cold, and my phone's camera is probably not +good enough anyway. + +## The Farangole pass + +At Rifugio Mulaz, the sun rises at 6:40 and sets at around 7:05. +In the morning. Luckily for you, I got up early enough to catch +the sunset. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +Rifugio Mulaz is closely surrounded by high mountains. This is the +only spot where you could see something in the distance. This time +of the year, the sun rises from the peaks on the left of this picture, +only to hide away behind those on the right a few minutes later. +</em></p> + +It's a beautiful day, if only a bit cold. This time we get up earlier than +usual and we are ready to leave at 7:15. The main challenge of the day +is going to be the *Passo delle Farangole* (2932 meters on sea level), +a high mountain pass not far from the hut. Our guide book even suggests +a possible alternative route for less confident hikers, but we deemed +it within our capabilities. + +After steep, but short, climb to *Forcella Margherita* (2655m) we reach a +section of the trail that would not be particularly challenging, if +not for the fact that the track is not well marked. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +The trail after Forcella Margherita, right before the Farangole pass. +</em></p> + +In fact, the traces of the hikers who missed the path are *more* visible +than the actual trail, likely because said hikers made them more clear +by backtracking their steps when they realized they were out of the +trail. We do the same a couple of times. + +We soon reach the start of the equipped trail that leads to the pass, +but it looks sketchy, so I decide to try climbing up the scree next to +it. This was probably a mistake, so we soon turn left and attach our +trusty ropes to the steel supports. + + + +<p align="center"><em>Climbing up to the Farangole Pass.</em></p> + +The track is very steep, and at times +[exposed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_%28heights%29), but the +steel ropes and the other supporting material is in a good state. +Overall, this famous Farangole Pass is easier than we expected. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +And down we go. The steel ladder looks like it ends in the void, +but actually there is an extra steel beam protruding from the +rock, and after that there is only a 60cm drop. +</em></p> + +After clearing the pass at around 9:00, we feel satisfied and proud of +ourselves. My knee does not even hurt anymore. + +Little did we now that the truly difficult part is the Farangole *trail*, +which we'll have to go through later this morning. But for now, in our +blissful ignorance, we enjoy the beautiful weather and we take plenty +of pictures as we walk down from the pass. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +The view North, towards the mountains we have just passed. +</em></p> + + + +<p align="center"><em>An imposing rocky plateau on the South.</em></p> + + + +<p align="center"><em>The view to the North-East.</em></p> + +## The Farangole trail + +As the trail gets tight and very exposed, we realize that maybe +*this* is the section the guide book was warning us about. We +proceed carefully, attaching our home-made harness when a steel rope +is available. Unfortunately, most of the trail is on a narrow ledge +surrounded by grass and soft soil, where no piece of supporting material +can be fixed. At least it is not wet today. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +My dad walking on a narrow section of the Farangole trail. +</em></p> + + + +<p align="center"><em>Another hiker following us on the same trail.</em></p> + +Since this trail is challenging and dangerous, we have to keep +constant focus on our steps and the way ahead of us. We have little +time to relax and enjoy the beautiful view, and we take much fewer +pictures than we did earlier. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +The view from the last part of the Farangole trail, towards +the East. Soon we'll have to walk down to the dry bed of the +river you can see at the bottom of this picture. The tiny line +on the hill on the left is the Farangole trail. +</em></p> + +At 12:30 we reach the bottom of *Valgrande* (*Pian dei Cantoni*, 2310m). + +## To Rifugio Rosetta and beyond + +The way up to Rifugio Rosetta is steep, but short. The previous +part was not physically demanding, but it was dangerous and +technically fairly challenging. I am relieved that now I can just +let my legs bring me up, and I reach the hut at 13:05. + + + +<p align="center"><em>Rifugio Rosetta</em></p> + +[Rifugio Rosetta](https://www.rifugiorosetta.it) (2581m) is easily +reachable with a cable car, and because of this it is very crowded, +similarly to the area around Piz Boè that we passed through on +[day 3](../day3). + +This is a good time for a break, so we decide to sit down, drink +a glass of [skiwasser](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skiwasser), and +eat another slice of strüdel. Yes, we ate a lot of those. The one +they serve in this hut is particularly good, with plenty of fresh +fruit and pine nuts. + +We get up and leave the hut at 14:05. The weather gets cold and foggy, +but luckily for us it won't last long. Our plan is to walk down until +*Col de le Fede* (2200m) and then up again to *Pass dei Ball* (2433m). + +The way down is slow and tedious, and my knee starts hurting again. + + + +<p align="center"><em>Walking down from Rifugio Rosetta.</em></p> + +The way up to the pass is steep, and there is a long section equipped +with a steel rope. But the equipped part is actually very easy compared +to other similar trails that we have walked this morning and in the +previous days. + + + +<p align="center"><em>My dad walking on this equipped section.</em></p> + +After reaching Pass dei Ball, we walk down slowly to +[Rifugio Pradidali](https://www.rifugiopradidali.com/eng/Home.html) +(2278m), which we reach at 17:05. + +Later we would discover that there is an alternative route to +go from Rosetta to Pradidali, which starts by walking up to the +East and skips both the slow and tedious descent and the +more steep section before Pass dei Ball. This alternative path was +probably slightly easier, but it would not have saved us that much +time and effort. + +The Pradidali is a nice hut, but there is no phone signal nor WiFi. +The showers are still expensive, and when it is my turn the water boiler +has run out of gas, and I can either wait for it to be replaced or do a +freezing cold shower. I don't want to wait, so arctic shower here I come! + +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day5">← Day 5</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day7">Day 7 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + + + + + + diff --git a/src/av2/day7/day7.md b/src/av2/day7/day7.md @@ -0,0 +1,189 @@ +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day6">← Day 6</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day8">Day 8 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + +# Day 7 - The longest day + +<p align="center"><em>August 26, 2025</em></p> + +## Route of the day + +<details> +<summary><strong>Click to see map</strong></summary> +<img src="../img/26-0000-map.png"> +</details> + +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day7.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/san-martino-di-castrozza-primiero-vanoi/-2025-alta-via-2-day-7/325542923/?share=%7E3zdmdrba%244ossqbdf)* + +## A relaxing stroll in Val Canali + +Last night we had to check our maps, because we were not sure which route +we would be going, according to our plan. We did not remember that the +guide book suggested two possible alternatives to reach the next hut, +Rifugio Treviso: a higher mountain trail, with some challenging sections, +and an easier one that starts by walking down the *Val Canali*, a valley +that leads out of the Pala group and into the *Vette Feltrine* mountain +range. Our plan was to follow the easier route, and we decided to stick +to it. + +We leave the Pradidali at 7:30. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +Rifugio Pradidali and a mountain behind it, in a beautiful sunny morning. +Maybe I should have taken notes of the names of the peaks I photographed. +Oh well, too late now. +</em></p> + + + +<p align="center"><em>Val Canali.</em></p> + +The descent is quite diverse, alternating between rocks, gravel, grass +and forest. There are some steel ropes that seem oddly placed in a very +simple section, but they would probably be useful in a rainy day. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +Walking down an easy trail, in a typical Dolomite landscape. +</em></p> + +At 9:50 we reach the ruins of *malga Pradidali* (1428 meters on sea level). +So far it has been a nice sunny day, and the walk has been easy. But the +end of the day will be very different. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +The ruins of malga Pradidali. A "malga" is a building where people +temporarily lived in the Summer while their livestock grazed the high +mountain pastures that surround it. Malga Antersasc, that we passed by on +<a href="../day1">day one</a>, is another example. Many malgas are still +in use nowadays, and they often sell locally-produced dairy products, +but unfortunately for us we only found ruins so far. +</em></p> + +The trail continues in the forest, and at 10:35 we pass by *malga +Canali* (1307m). This one *was* in use, and we could have stopped to +eat something if we wanted, but we did not. + + + +<p align="center"><em>The pastures behind malga Canali.</em></p> + +We now have to walk up to reach Rifugio Treviso (1631m). The trail in +the forest becomes steep, but it does not last long. We reach the hut +at 11:40, and it is time for a break. + + + +## The return of the clouds + +After taking a few pictures and a slice of a typical alpine dessert (I'll +let you guess which one), we are ready to start walking again at 12:30. + +Our next checkpoint is *forcella d'Oltro* (2094m). My knee has been +good so far, but I still try not to put too much weight on it. The road +up to the forcella is steep, and we are tired. We have done nothing but +walking steep trails for more than a week at this point. We walk slowly, +but steadily. + + + +<p align="center"><em>The forested slopes on the North-West.</em></p> + +On our way up, we meet a couple walking down from the forcella. They +tell us that they could see nothing at all on the other side, because +of the fog and the clouds. We are not sure if we should take them +literally, because it is such a sunny day on this side. But indeed, +when we reach the tight pass at 14:30, we can see it with out own eyes. + + + +<p align="center"><em>The fog on the other side of forcella d'Oltro.</em></p> + + + +<p align="center"><em> +The side where we came from, in contrast, is perfectly sunny. +</em></p> + +We need another short break, but we don't want to stay here for +too long. As often happens in these high passes, +the wind is strong and chilling. + +We thought this would be the last place above 2000 meters of the whole +trip. Or at the very least for the day, considering that all that was +left was walking down to the +[Cereda Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cereda_Pass). +But we were not exactly right. + +## Down? Not so fast, cowboy + +The descent to the Cereda Pass starts very steep, and we quickly loose +about 200 meters of altitude. But then the trail starts going up again, +and slowly but surely we walk up, and up, and up. The road is not steep, +but we are walking on a tight ledge on a grassy slope that requires us +to focus. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +Me on this tight path that, for whatever reason, is leading back +up instead of down to Pass Cereda. As you can see, I am not amused. +</em></p> + +Only after we reach the altitude of 2150m do we start going down, +but this time very slowly. We cannot see very far due to the fog, +and in any case we would still be hyper-focused on our steps. +But at least there are some interesting rock formations close to +us that are worth admiring. + + + +<p align="center"><em>Some interesting rock formations close to the trail.</em></p> + + + +<p align="center"><em>A tree growing on top of a naked rock.</em></p> + +The trail gradually becomes less exposed, but more steep. My knee starts +hurting once again, but I am not surprised, considering how long we have +been walking since this morning. + +After what feels like an eternity of wandering through the fog, +we reach the hotel at the Cereda Pass (1361m) at 18:15. After +almost 11 hours of walk, my feet and my knees are begging for mercy. + + + +<p align="center"><em>The pastures around the Cereda Pass.</em></p> + +We have a private room at [Rifugio +Cereda](https://www.rifugiocereda.com/en/), where +we can have a shower, and we rest well. The food is +also amazing: I have what is one of the best plates of +[*käsespätzle*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K%C3%A4sesp%C3%A4tzle) +of my life. By the way, over here the spätzle are prepared with spinach +and they are green, not white; I think they do the same in Tyrol, but +definitely not in Germany. + +Unfortunately, the weather forecasts for the next day are not as good +as our dinner. + +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day6">← Day 6</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day8">Day 8 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + + + + + + diff --git a/src/av2/day8/day8.md b/src/av2/day8/day8.md @@ -0,0 +1,211 @@ +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day7">← Day 7</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day9">Day 9 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + +# Day 8 - The Troi dei Caserin + +<p align="center"><em>August 27, 2025</em></p> + +## Route of the day + +<details> +<summary><strong>Click to see map</strong></summary> +<img src="../img/27-0000-map.png"> +</details> + +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day8.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/san-martino-di-castrozza-primiero-vanoi/-2025-alta-via-2-day-8/325543034/?share=%7E3zdmeu44%244ossqbdb)* + +## A damp morning + +Today the final part of Alta Via 2 begins. We are entering the *Vette +Feltrine*, a part that is perhaps less well-known by tourists, but no +less beautiful. The trails we'll have to walk are going to be narrow, +often steep. + +The weather forecasts for the day are not great, but we +should reach [Rifugio Boz](https://www.rifugioboz.it/) (1718 meters +on sea level) before it starts raining. For now there is just a thick fog, +and the weather is unpleasantly hot and humid. + + + +<p align="center"><em>Our last sight of Rifugio Cereda and the Pala Group.</em></p> + +We leave at 7:45. At first we walk on a secondary paved road, then on +a dirt road. Both my guide booklet and the signs try to make us walk +downhill towards the nearby villages of Matiuz and Padreterno, but there +is a clearly faster road that stays in the forest and leads to the +start of the actual trail. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +The top sign is marked as "AV2", for Alta Via 2. There is a gap that +was probably filled by a sign pointing left, which is the way we took. +I suspect someone - perhaps the local forest authorities - removed +the sign because they did not want people to go that way, but I +can't imagine why. Or perhaps the sign simply fell off. +</em></p> + +After about one hour of walk in the forest, the actual trail begins. +The humidity is very intense, still unpleasant. Unfortunately this also +means that the pictures of the day are very... foggy. + + + +<p align="center"><em>The valley behind us, in the fog.</em></p> + +## L'Intaiàda + +The trail becomes steep, and then extremely steep. We walk along +a vertical wall of granite, where a narrow passage is carved out. +Indeed, this part of the trail is called *L'Intaiàda*, which +can be roughly translated as *The Carved-Out*. + + + +<p align="center"><em>Admittedly not the best picture of L'Intaiàda.</em></p> + +The trail continues, narrow and exposed, but well equipped with some +sturdy metal ropes where needed. It requires some attention, but I don't +find it scary or particularly difficult; there is always some rock or +support piece I can hang on to rest while I think about the next steps. + + + +<p align="center"><em>Another section of L'Intaiàda.</em></p> + + + +The trail continues very steep, and at 12:05 we reach the *Pass del +Comedon* (2130m). + + + +<p align="center"><em>View from the pass.</em></p> + +## A quick break at Bivacco Feltre + +From the pass we walk down an extremely steep trail, initially very +exposed, then less scary. + +My left knee has been doing well so far, but suddently I feel an acute +sting of pain that almost makes loose my balance. This is not good. It +is also very different from the constant, mild to moderate pain that I +have felt when walking downhill in the past few days. But I push through, +slowly and steadily. + +The fog becomes even thicker, at times we can't see much farther than +20-30 meters. + + + +<p align="center"><em>We are close to Bivacco Feltre, but we can't see it.</em></p> + +For a brief moment I catch a glimpse of *Bivacco Feltre* (1930m), a +[sheet metal shelter](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bivouac_shelter) +where hikers can wait for the bad weather to subside, or spend the night +in case of need. + + + +<p align="center"><em>Bivacco Feltre.</em></p> + +We reach the bivouac at 13:05, and we decide to take a break. We eat +a protein bar and refill our water bottles. Unfortunately, we can see +literally nothing besides the meadow around us, and the fog. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +Our view from Bivacco Feltre. The guide book describes the place +as "pleasant and majestic". I guess I'll have to trust them on this one. +</em></p> + +We need some rest, but we don't want to wait for too long. The journey +is still long, and if we don't reach our destination before 17:00 we +will probably be caught by the forecasted thunderstorm. We leave the +bivouac at 13:30. + +## The Troi dei Caserin + +From the shelter we walk down, loosing about 200 or 300 meters of +altitude. We quickly gain them back, as the trail continues upwards. +The fog is still very thick, we can't see further than 10m. + +The trail so far is not particuarly hard, but there are some interesting +passages where we have to cross some waterfalls and some small water +streams. Or maybe I found them interesting only because my bad knee +prevented me from pushing with my left leg and I had to make some complex +alternative manouvers. + + + +At 14:50 we reach *Col dei Bech* (1960m), which means *Ibex' hill*. +And in fact, just after Cold dei Bech, in one of the rare moments when +the fog let us see at more than 15 meters, we did see a small family +of chamois. Ok, not quite ibex, but close enough. Judging from the +quantity of warm shit that we saw on the trail, they had probably walked +right ahead of us for a while. + +We continue on this trail that becomes increasingly narrow and exposed, +difficult in some sections. We are on the *Troi dei Caserin* ("the +Caserins' trail"). + + + +There are some steel ropes in the most dangerous parts, but not for +long: soon we reach a grassy section, and the trail becomes ever +more narrow. On our left, the emptiness of a hundred-meters free fall is +hidden by the fog. My aching knee makes everything even more challenging. + +We did not take many pictures of this part of the journey, mainly because +we were focusing on keeping our feet on the ground. Apparently, my dad +and I walked this same trail some 15 years ago, when it was covered in +half a meter of snow. And I say apparently because, even though we both +remember that trip quite well, we have no recollection of taking such a +dangerous path in those conditions. But there is no alternative road, +so we must have done it... somehow. + +At 16:45 we reach *Pass de Mura* (1867m). The view opens up, but we +can't quite see our destination yet. + + + +<p align="center"><em> +You see the tiny building down there? It is not Rifugio +Boz, but Malga Neva. Luckily for us, the Rifugio is closer than that. +</em></p> + +We walk down from the pass and we reach [Rifugio +Boz](https://www.rifugioboz.it/) (1718m) at 17:05. Just as we walk +through the door, a strong storm begins. + +## At Rifugio Boz + +We are tired, hungry and our muscles are sore. As we check in, the hut +manager asks us if we are walking the Alta Via. We respond that yes, +we are, and tomorrow we will be going all the way to [Rifugio Dal +Piaz](https://www.rifugiodalpiaz.com), and we'll finally walk down +victorious to Croce d'Aune in the evening. + +"Are you sure about that?" - she says. + +"Why?" - we ask, not sure if she was joking or not. + +"Have you seen the weather forecast?" + +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day7">← Day 7</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day9">Day 9 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + + + + + + diff --git a/src/av2/day9/day9.md b/src/av2/day9/day9.md @@ -0,0 +1,119 @@ +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day8">← Day 8</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../after">After the hike →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + +# Day 9 - Cutting it short + +<p align="center"><em>August 28, 2025</em></p> + +## Route of the day + +<details> +<summary><strong>Click to see map</strong></summary> +<img src="../img/28-0000-map.png"> +</details> + +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day9.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-9/325543151/?share=%7E3zdmfdkz%244ossqbdb)* + +## An inevitable decision + +The last leg of the Alta Via 2 is long, challenging and dangerous. +Most of the trail is on top of a ridge, exposed on both sides, and strong +winds are frequent. + +And in the afternoon of August 28, the last day of our Alta Via 2, there +are going to be strong thunderstorms. The manager at Rifugio Boz told +us "I have walked this trail many times, but with a weather like this, +I would never dare". + +We are prepared and experienced, but we are powerless against the forces +of nature. We give up. On August 28, the last day of our Alta Via 2, +we are not going to Rifugio Dal Piaz, or to Croce d'Aune. We are going +down a safer trail, in the forest of the +[*Val Canzoi*](https://www.dolomitipark.it/en/visiting-the-park/itineraries/on-foot/nature-trails/val-di-canzoi/), +and we are going to conclude our adventure half a day earlier. + +## From Rifugio Boz to Malga Alvis + + + +<p align="center"><em>Rifugio Boz with the +<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sass_de_Mura">Sass de Mura</a> +in the background.</em></p> + +We leave the hut at 7:35. The are two ways to walk down to Val Canzoi: +either we climb up to *Passo Alvis*, or to *Passo Finestra*. We +choose the former, as the trail that comes down from Passo Alvis +ends close to a bar where we can wait for someone to pick us up. + + + +<p align="center"><em>We walk together with other 3 hikers to Passo Alvis. +We are not the only ones who decided to cut the Alta Via short.</em></p> + +The weather is not bad for now. There are clouds, but it is not raining. +But the afternoon storm is going to be massive. + +At 7:55 we are up to Passo Alvis (1880 meters on sea level). From there, +we only need to go down another 1000 meters. We can't quite see the +bottom of the valley, but we do see the back of the main mountains that +are also visible from our home. + + + +<p align="center"><em>The view from Passo Alvis. In the back, partly hidden by the +clouds, you can see the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pizzocco"> +Pizzocco</a>, +the main mountain that rises above our home town. We are coming home!</em></p> + +We walk down from the pass. The descent starts steep, but the trail is +not difficult. We see one last family of chamoix, running away from us. + +At 8:40 we reach Malga Alvis (1573m). + + + +<p align="center"><em>Malga Alvis.</em></p> + +It starts raining. We take shelter inside the malga. The building +is not used for its original purpose anymore, but it is maintained +by the local natural park administration as a bivouac for hikers. +Some 15 years ago, in a cold late April, my dad and I spent the night +here before continuing our hike the following day. + +## Down to the valley, one last time + +Luckily the rain stops soon, and the five of us can continue our march. +The *Lago della Stua* is now visible. + + + +<p align="center"><em>Lago della Stua in Val Canzoi.</em></p> + +We keep going down. My knee starts hurting again, but we are almost there. +Overall I enjoyed this last part of the journey. The trail in this +mid-mountain forest is exactly the kind of road that I used to walk a +lot years ago, when I frequently hiked around these mountains. + +Our adventure ends at 10:40, on the dam of the lake. + + + +We reach the nearby bar, we sit down, we drink a +[spritz](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spritz_(cocktail)). + + +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="../day8">← Day 8</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../after">After the hike →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + + + + + + diff --git a/src/av2/gpx/av2-day1.gpx b/src/av2/gpx/av2-day1.gpx @@ -0,0 +1,5424 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" standalone="yes"?> +<gpx version="1.1" creator="outdooractive - http://www.outdooractive.com" xmlns="http://www.topografix.com/GPX/1/1" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance" 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right"> <a href="../day1">Day 1 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + +# Preparation + +Alta Via 2 is not a hike one can do without planning. Obviously, one must +be sufficiently trained - though advanced climbing skills are generally +not needed, walking on steep mountain trails for multiple days requires +some experience and a decent condition. But there is also the logistics +side of things: Where are you going to sleep? How many clothes are +you bringing? Do they all fit in your backpack? And what if it rains? + +## Training + +We started planning this hike about a year in advanced, so we had +plenty of time to train for it. Unfortunately, since I now live in +the Netherlands, I could not practice by actually walking in mountain +trails. My dad was luckier, because there are plenty of physically +demanding trails that start just a few minutes drive away from where +he lives. + +So I replaced the actual hiking with two types of training: long-distance +running and leg muscle exercises. + +For the running part, I went for 6-12km runs twice a week more or less +regularly. This is something I enjoyed regardless of my goal of training +for the hike; I even took part in a local half-marathon run. + + + +<p align="center"><em> At the starting gate of the <a +href="https://marathon.nl/">Leiden half marathon</a>. Two hours and +six minutes later, I am not going to be smiling like that. </em></p> + +The gym part was less entartaining for me, I never liked exercising +indoors. But I managed to train somewhat consistently for 15-30 minutes +once or twice a week. My exercises included squats, side planks, one-leg +push-ups and the like. Boooring. + +With all of this I was quite confident I was going to be in good shape +for the hike. I was more worried about the logistics... + +## Planning the route + +Most sources (including the one I followed, a red booklet that I +can't find online, but whose content is mostly summarized in [this +website](https://www.altavia2dolomiti.com/percorso)) suggest walking +Alta Via 2 in 12 or 13 days. But this way some of the days consist +of less than 5 hours of walking. On the other hand, well-trained hikers +can complete the whole route in 7 days or less. We decided that 10 +days would be a good middle ground for having a fun and intense hike +without overdoing it. In hindsight, this was a good plan, but I don't +think I would have minded some of those short walking days. + +For multiple reasons, we decided to sleep in huts rather than camping. +Since these regions tend to be quite popular with turists, we decided to +book our accommodations early on. We started booking in May, thinking +it would be early enough, but it was not - at least not the for part in +[Südtirol](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Tyrol). None of the +huts in our first two days had any spare bed. We contacted all the +places that were somewhat close to our path, to no avail. In the end we +were forced to squeeze the first 3 days into 2, and make a long detour +to reach a nearby village to sleep in a B&B on our first night. + +The rest of the route followed largely the border between +[Trentino](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trentino) and the [province of +Belluno](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Province_of_Belluno), and it was +easier to find accommodation there. fine. Not every hut in our original +plan was available, but we could always find good alternatives nearby. + +Our final plan was the following: + +||Start|Finish|Up|Down|Distance| +|:-|:-:|:-:|:-:|:-:|:-:|:-:| +|[Day 1](../day1)|[Kreutztal](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brixen)|[Lungiarü](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lungiar%C3%BC)|1050m|-1620m|22.1km| +|[Day 2](../day2)|[Lungiarü](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lungiar%C3%BC)|[Rifugio Pisciadù](https://www.rifugiopisciadu.it/)|1820m|-690m|19.0km| +|[Day 3](../day3)|[Rifugio Pisciadù](https://www.rifugiopisciadu.it/)|[Rifugio Fedaia](https://www.rifugiofedaia.com/)|760m|-1310m|18.0km| +|[Day 4](../day4)|[Rifugio Fedaia](https://www.rifugiofedaia.com/)|[Rifugio Flora Alpina](https://floralpina.it/)|1030m|-1290m|17.4km| +|[Day 5](../day5)|[Rifugio Flora Alpina](https://floralpina.it/)|[Rifugio Mulaz](https://www.prenotarifugi.cai.it/en/detail/?id=5769)|1160m|-410m|17.6km| +|[Day 6](../day6)|[Rifugio Mulaz](https://www.prenotarifugi.cai.it/en/detail/?id=5769)|[Rifugio Pradidali](http://www.rifugiopradidali.com/pradidali/Home.html)|890m|-1160m|12.4km| +|[Day 7](../day7)|[Rifugio Pradidali](http://www.rifugiopradidali.com/pradidali/Home.html)|[Rifugio Passo Cereda](https://www.rifugiocereda.com/)|1110m|-2000m|17.1km| +|[Day 8](../day8)|[Rifugio Passo Cereda](https://www.rifugiocereda.com/)|[Rifugio Boz](https://www.rifugioboz.it)|1210m|-860m|12.8km| +|[Day 9](../day9)|[Rifugio Boz](https://www.rifugioboz.it)|[Croce d'Aune](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Croce_d%27Aune)|800m|-1500m|20.0km| + +For the first and last days, the plan was to have someone bring us there +and pick us up, so we spent only 8 nights out. We did not realize at +the time, but this plan gave us a nice balance between high mountain +huts (for the real mountaineering experience) and proper hotels +(for better comfort). Confusingly, both the huts and the hotels +were also called *rifugio* (or *hütte* in German, or *utia* in +[Ladin](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ladin_language)). + +## Packing up + +You may find it silly, but fitting all the necessities in our backpacks +was the part of this adventure that I was most worried about. We were +going to hike for 9 days, but clearly we could not pack 9 sets of clean +clothes; that alone would almost fill our backpacks. And it's not just +t-shirts and underwear, we needed warm and waterproof clothes, too. And +what about food? The huts served dinner and breakfast, but we definitely +needed something to eat throughout the day. + +In the end, this is what we packed: + +### Hiking gear + +* Hiking boots. +* [Hiking sticks](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trekking_pole), similar + to [nordic walking](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordic_walking) + poles, but they are usually kept shorter. They help pushing when going + up and keep you stable when you walk down. +* A simple harness consisting of a strong rope with a + [carabiner](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carabiner), to be + used for the occasional *equipped trails* (think of a [via + ferrata](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata), but easier). +* Two water bottles (0.5L + 1L). The smaller one was a thermos-like bottle, + but I ended up never filling it with hot water or tea. + It would have been better to just bring two lightweight plastic bottles. +* Maps: [Tabacco](https://www.tabaccoeditrice.it/en/home-english/) + maps number [30 + (Brixen-Villnössertal)](https://www.tabaccoeditrice.it/en/cartografie_en/125000-coast/030_en/), + [6 (Val di Fassa e Dolimiti + Fassane)](https://www.tabaccoeditrice.it/en/cartografie_en/125000-coast/06_en/), + [22 (Pale di San + Martino)](https://www.tabaccoeditrice.it/en/cartografie_en/125000-coast/022_en/), + plus an older map of the same brand for the Feltre area, that + followed a different numbering scheme. We also had offline maps from + [OpenStreetMaps](https://www.openstreetmap.org/#map=12/46.5905/11.7540) + on our phones - we used [Organic Maps](https://organicmaps.app/) and + [Mapy](https://mapy.com) as clients - but a paper backup is always + convenient, especially because of the size: it is much easier to read + a large map than to look at one on a 6" screen. The Tabacco maps were + also more accurate in some specific parts, because they included + codes for describing each trail's type or difficulty. + +### Clothes + +Most of the clothes we brought with us were made of some synthetic fabric +that was extremely lightweight and quick to dry up. + +* 4 T-shirts (2 or 3 would have been enough). +* 4 pairs of underwear (again, 2 or 3 would have been enough). +* Zip-off hiking trousers that could be converted to shorts (but + I ended up almost always using them in trouser form). +* A full set of "normal" clothes (underwear, socks, T-shirt, shorts) that + I used only in the huts. +* A lightweight hoodie that somehow kept me warm amazingly well. I used + it for any temperature between 2°C to 20°C, as it did not feel + uncomfortable when it was too hot, as a regular hoodie would. +* A regular cotton hoodie that never used. +* Slippers. +* A baseball cap. +* A rain poncho. I did not like wearing it, because it made me sweat a lot + and I ended up getting wet anyway. But in ceratin moments it was necessary. +* Rain trousers. In the end I never used them, my regular hiking trousers + were somewhat waterproof, and the rain poncho covered all the rest. +* Gloves. Temperatures reached close to 0°C, and having your hands wet + with strong winds at near-freezing temperatures is not fun. + +### Food and medicine + +* The only food we pack were protein bars. We brought 3 bars per person per + day, but this was way too much. I ended up eating one ~100g bar per + day on average, because we were often able to grab some food (like a + slice of [*Strüdel*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_strudel)) + in the huts we walked by during the day. +* Energy tablets. Some quick energy boost, + they were mostly vitamins with some caffeine. +* Plasters, both regular ones and + [blister platers](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compeed). +* Painkillers and other basic medicine. + +### Other stuff + +* Sleeping bag. A very light one is enough, since every hut provided heavy + blankets, but not linens, and guests have to bring their own. +* One towel, [the most thing to + bring](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Hitchhiker's_Guide_to_the_Galaxy). +* Soap, toothbrush and toothpaste. +* Wet wipes. +* Wallet, phone, phone charger and a power bank. +* A small planner and a pen, to keep a journal of the trip. + +At 12kg water included, the backpack is quite heavy. I could have saved a +couple of kilos, but in the end we used almost everything that we brought. + + + +<p align="center"><em>Ready to go!</em></p> + +<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href=""></a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="../">Alta Via 2</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="../day1">Day 1 →</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table> + + + + + + diff --git a/src/blog/2023-10-15-build-time/build-time.md.bak b/src/blog/2023-10-15-build-time/build-time.md.bak @@ -1,119 +0,0 @@ -# Build time! - -After thinking about it for quite some time, my girlfriend and I finally -got a nice desktop PC. This is our first build, and the first time I -open up a desktop PC in 10 years or so! - - - -## Specs - -* CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700 (8 cores / 16 threads, 3.8GHz base / 5.3GHz Boost) -* GPU: Asus AMD Radeon RX 6650 XT (8GB dedicated memory) -* RAM: 2x32GB -* SSD: 2TB NVMe - -We (especially my girlfriend) play some games, but not the newest AAA -titles, and we are definitely willing to sacrifice some graphics quality. -So we went for some "best bang for the buck" CPU and GPU, paying attention -to the power usage, too. - -I also write code for fun, and for one of my hobby projects I would like -to experiment with different sizes of RAM, so I wanted at least 32GB. We -ended up getting 64 because we had some money left in our budget and we -did not need (or want) a better (and more power-hungry) CPU or GPU. - -With the case and all the peripherals, including a pretty good 27" -screen, we got it for less than 1400€, which I think is a good price. - -## Building it up - -We were a bit scared of putting all the pieces together. My girlfriend -has never done it, and the last time I assembled a -PC it was back in the days of spinning hard drives with -[IDE connectors](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parallel_ATA) -and motherboard -[beep codes](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power-on_self-test#Progress_and_error_reporting). -You know, when the PC kindly told you in pseudo-morse code exactly what -was wrong. Those were the days! - -Nostalgia aside, the build process went pretty smoothly - except for -a small cut on my middle finger. Here are some of the things I found -interesting: - -### Black is the new green - -I remember mother boards and graphics card used to be all green, now not -anymore! At least in our case, they are all black. Cool, I guess. - -### Tiny NVMe drive - -Modern NVMe drives are really small! I remember old hard disks being -literal bricks - you would not want to drop one of those, lest it breaks -your toes or damages the floor. Now you would not want to drop one for -fear of loosing it under the sofa. - -### Fans everywhere - -The case has a fan, the CPU has a fan, the GPU has two. I don't remember -there were this many fans in ~2009, but if it keeps my chips cool, -I'll take it! - -### Damned RGB - -We (espcially me) do not like at all the modern "gamer aesthetics" that -demand RGB lights everywhere. So we carefully chose components that had -the no LEDs, or as little as possible. Unfortunately, the stock CPU fan -has more lights than a Christmas tree. Our solid black case saves us here. - -### Ugly BIOS - -I mean, WTF is this screen? - - - -It's like a B-tier early 2000s video game. I think the classic 80s -style, curses-like graphics looked much better. But on the other hand, -who cares. - -## Operating system - -We agreed on using Linux, because we are both Linux users, because all -the games we would like to play work either natively or via proton, -and because fuck you Microsoft and your crappy spyware. - -I use [Void](https://voidlinux.org/), but for a shared PC I would like -something that "just works" with minimal setup. My girlfriend uses -[Mint](https://linuxmint.com/), but she wanted to try out something -new. Debian seemed like a solid choice, and it is -[very similar to Linux](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5ocXFgowZA) -(in case you can't click on the link or don't understand Italian, it's a joke). - -For the desktop environment we initially went for XFCE, but my -girlfriend immediately disliked it because many administration tasks -were counter-intuitive or just impossible (e.g. adding a new user). So -we switched to KDE, and we are both reasonably satisfied with it. However, -I am a bit disappointed to see that it is (still) a bit buggy - some of the -first disappointments include: [Discover](https://apps.kde.org/discover/) -failing to open, KDE "administrator" users not being able to use `sudo`, -the [screen failing to turn off](https://discussion.fedoraproject.org/t/f37-kde-5-27-screen-doesnt-dim-nor-turn-off/73960) -after the set timeout. At least it is not as buggy as the inital KDE4 -release in 2008. - -## Build time? - -So, how long does it take to build Linux on my new Linux build? - -``` -$ sudo apt build-dep linux -$ wget https://cdn.kernel.org/pub/linux/kernel/v6.x/linux-6.5.7.tar.xz -$ tar -xvf linux-6.5.7.tar.xz -$ cd linux-6.5.7.tar.xz -$ make mrproper -$ make defconfig -$ time make -j16 - -real 1m27.215 -user 17m57.806s -sys 1m46.663s -``` diff --git a/src/home.md b/src/home.md @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ # Sebastiano Tronto - + Hello! I am a software developer based in Leiden, The Netherlands. diff --git a/src/me2.jpg b/src/me2.jpg Binary files differ. diff --git a/src/style-4.css b/src/style-4.css @@ -1,110 +0,0 @@ -header nav table { - width: 100%; -} - -.logo img { - max-width: 3em; - margin: 0 0 0 0; -} - -.links { - text-align: right; - font-weight: bold; -} - -footer table { - font-style: italic; - width: 100%; -} - -.hosted { - text-align: right; -} - -body { - margin: auto 8px 20px 8px; -} - -img { - display: block; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - max-width: 100%; -} - -code { - background-color: #eeeeee; - padding: 2px; -} - -pre code { - padding: 0px; -} - -pre { - background-color: #eeeeee; - border: 2px solid; - padding: 6px; - overflow-x: auto; -} - -#blob { - background: #ffffff; - border: none; -} - -a { - color: #0f2899; - text-decoration: none; -} - -.links a { - font-weight: bold; - color: black; -} - -.hosted a, -.contact a { - font-weight: bold; -} - -a:hover { - text-decoration: underline; -} - -html { - margin: 1em auto; - max-width: 42em; -} - -h1 { - text-align: center; -} - -td h1 { - text-align: left; - font-size: 1.5em; -} - -table { - width: 100%; -} - -#files td { - font-family: monospace; - font-size: 1.2em; - min-width: 7em; -} - -#log tr:hover td, -#files tr:hover td { - background-color: #eeeeee; -} - -.url td { - font-family: monospace; -} - -table tr td a img { - min-width: 33px; -} diff --git a/src/style-5.css b/src/style.css diff --git a/top.html b/top.html @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ <head> <title> TITLE | Sebastiano Tronto </title> <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width"> - <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/style-5.css"> + <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="/style.css"> <link rel="icon" href="/favicon.png"> <meta charset="utf-8"> </head> diff --git a/utils/macros.m4 b/utils/macros.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,17 @@ +m4_divert(-1) +m4_changequote(`{{{{{', `}}}}}') + +This file contains some m4 macros that can be used to preprocess md files. + +m4_divert(1) + +m4_define({{{{{m4_navtable}}}}}, +{{{{{<table style="width: 100%; table-layout: fixed;"> <thead> <tr> + <th style="text-align: left"> <a href="$2">$1</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: center"> <a href="$4">$3</a> </th> + <th style="text-align: right"> <a href="$6">$5</a> </th> +</tr> </thead> </table>}}}}}) + +m4_define({{{{{m4_caption}}}}}, {{{{{<p align="center"><em>$1</em></p>}}}}}) + +m4_divert(0)m4_dnl
