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authorSebastiano Tronto <sebastiano@tronto.net>2025-10-06 22:09:12 +0200
committerSebastiano Tronto <sebastiano@tronto.net>2025-10-08 21:45:22 +0200
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1# Day 6 - The Farangole trail
2
3|[← Day 5](../day5)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 7 →](../day7)|
4|:-|:-:|-:|
5
6## Route of the day
7
8<details>
9<summary><strong>Click to see map</strong></summary>
10<img src="../img/25-0000-map.png">
11</details>
12
13*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day6.gpx) or see the route on
14[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-6/325542632/?share=%7E3zdmb4fp%244ossqbdc)*
15
16## The starry night
17
18During the night I woke up and managed to catch a glimpse of a wonderful
19starry night, the likes of which I have never seen before.
20
21If you live in a place with a lot of light pollution, like every medium
22to large city nowadays, seeing *a few* stars may already be an unusual
23experience. At the moment I live in a fairly small city, and we literally
24never see stars over here. We are lucky if we see Venus once in a while.
25
26But I grew up in a small village in a sparsely populated area, I *was*
27used to seeing skies full of stars at night. But this time, at 2500
28metres above sea level, in the middle of literally nowhere, the sky was
29soething else.
30
31I did not manage to take a good picture, sorry. I did not feel like going
32out in the freezing cold.
33
34## The Farangole pass
35
36At Rifugio Mulaz, the sun rises at 6:40 and sets at around 7:05.
37In the morning. Luckily for you, I got up early enough to catch
38the sunset.
39
40![The morning sunset](../img/25-0707-sunset.jpg)
41<p align="center">
42*Rifugio Mulaz is closely surrounded by high mountains. This is the only
43spot where you could see something in the distance. The sun rises from
44the peaks on the left of this picture, only to hide away behind those
45on the right shortly afterwards.*
46</p>
47
48It's a beautiful day, if only a bit cold. This time we get up earlier than
49usual and we are ready to leave at 7:15. The main challenge of the day
50is going to be the *passo delle Farangole* (2932 meters on sea level),
51a high mountain pass not far from the hut. Our guide book even suggests
52a possible alternative route for less confident hikers, but we believed
53it to be within our capabilities.
54
55After steep, but short, climb to *Forcella Margherita* (2655m) we reach a
56section of the trail that would not be particularly challenging, it was
57not for the fact that the track is not well marked.
58
59![The trail after Forcella Margherita](../img/25-0740-after-forcella-margherita.jpg)
60<p align="center">
61*The trail after Forcella Margherita, right before the Farangole pass.*
62</p>
63
64In fact, the traces of the hikers who missed the path are *more* visible
65than the actual trail, likely because said hikers made them more clear
66by backtracking their steps when they realized they were out of the
67trail. We do the same a couple of times.
68
69We soon reach the start of the equipped trail that leads to the pass,
70but I am not convinced and I decide to try climbing up the scree next
71it. This was probably a mistake, so we soon turn left and attach our
72trusty ropes to the steel supports.
73
74![Me, climbing up to the Farangole pass](../img/25-0830-up-to-farangole-pass.jpg)
75<p align="center">
76*Climbing up to the Farangole pass.*
77
78The track is very steep, and at times
79[exposed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_%28heights%29), but the
80steel ropes and the other supporting material is in a good state.
81Overall, this famous Farangole pass is easier than we expected.
82
83![My dad climbing down from the Farangole pass](../img/25-0851-down-from-farangole.jpg)
84<p align="center">
85*And down we go. The steel ladder looks like it ends in the void,
86but actually there is an extra steel beam protruding from the
87rock, and after that there only a 60cm drop.*
88</p>
89
90After clearing the pass at around 9:00, we feel satisfied and proud of
91ourselves. My knee does not even hurt anymore.
92
93Little did we now that the truly difficult part is the Farangole *trail*,
94which we'll have to go through later this morning. But for now, in our
95blisfful ignorance, we enjoy the beautiful weather and we take plenty
96of pictures as we walk down from the pass.
97
98![North view, towards the pass](../img/25-0910-blue-sky.jpg)
99<p align="center">
100*The view North, towards the mountains we have just passed.*
101</p>
102
103![A rocky plateau](../img/25-1009-rocky-plateau.jpg)
104<p align="center">
105*An imposing rocky plateau on the South.*
106</p>
107
108![The view to the North-East](../img/25-1019-north-east.jpg)
109<p align="center">*The view to the North-East.*</p>
110
111## The Farangole trail
112
113As the trail gets tight and very exposed, we realize that maybe
114*this* is the section the guide book was warning us about. We
115proceed carefully, attaching our home-made harness when a steel rope
116is available. Unfortunately, most of the trail is on a narrow ledge
117surrounded by grass and soft soil, where no piece of supporting material
118can be fixed. At least it is not wet.
119
120![My dad walking on the Farangole trail](../img/25-1109-dad-farangole.jpg)
121<p align="center">
122*My dad walking on a narrow section of the Farangole trail.*
123</p>
124
125![Anoher hiker](../img/25-1141-hiker.jpg)
126<p align="center">*Another hiker following us on the same trail.*</p>
127
128Since this trail is challenging and dangerous, we have to keep
129constant focus on our steps and the way ahead of us. We have little
130time to relax and enjoy the beautiful view, and we take much fewer
131pictures than we did earlier.
132
133![View from the Farangole trail](../img/25-1158-view.jpg)
134<p align="center">
135*The view from the last part of the Farangole trail, towards
136the East. Soon we'll have to walk down to the dry bed of the
137river at the bottom center of this picture. On the left, you
138can see the tiny line that is the Farangle trail.*
139</p>
140
141At 12:30 we reach the bottom of *Valgrande* (*Pian dei Cantoni*, 2310m).
142
143## To Rifugio Rosetta and beyond
144
145The way up to Rifugio Rosetta is steep, but short. The previous
146part was not phisically demanding, but it was dangerous and
147technically fairly challenging. I am relieved that now I can just
148let my leg bring me up, and I reach the hut at 13:05.
149
150![Rifugio Rosetta](../img/25-1321-rosetta.jpg)
151<p align="center">*Rifugio Rosetta*.</p>
152
153[Rifugio Rosetta](https://www.rifugiorosetta.it) (2581m) is easily
154reachable with a cable car, and because of this it is very crowded,
155similarly to the area around Piz Boè that we passed through on
156[day 3](../day3).
157
158This is a good time for a break, so we decide to sit down, drink
159a glass of [skiwasser](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skiwasser), and
160eat another slice of strüdel. Yes, we ate a lot of those. The one
161they serve in this hut is particularly good, with plenty of fresh
162fruit and pine nuts.
163
164We get up and leave the hut at 14:05. The weather gets cold and foggy,
165but luckily for us it won't last long. Our plan is to walk down until
166*Col de le Fede* (2200m) and then up again to *Pass dei Ball* (2433m).
167
168The way down is slow and tedious, and my knee starts hurting again.
169
170![Down from Rifugio Rosetta](../img/25-1519-down-from-rosetta.jpg)
171<p align="center">*Walking down from Rifugio Rosetta*.</p>
172
173The way up to the pass is steep, and there is a long section equipped
174with a steel rope. But the equipped part is actually very easy compared
175to other similar trails that we have walked this morning and in the
176previous days.
177
178![My dad walking on the equipped trail](../img/25-1606-rope.jpg)
179<p align="center">*My dad walking on this equipped section.*</p>
180
181After reaching Pass dei Ball, we walk down slowly to
182[Rifugio Pradidali](https://www.rifugiopradidali.com/eng/Home.html)
183(2278m), which we reach at 17:05.
184
185Later we would discover that there is an alternative route to
186go from Rosetta to Pradidali, which starts by walking up to the
187East and skips both the slow and tedious descent and the
188more steep section before Pass dei Ball. This alternative path was
189probably slightly easier, but it would not have saved us that much
190time and effort.
191
192The Pradidali is a nice hut, but there is no phone signal nor WiFi.
193The showers are still expensive, and when it is my turn the water boiler
194has run out of gas, and I can either wait for it to be replaced or do a
195freezing cold shower. I don't want to wait, so arctic shower here I come!
196
197|[← Day 5](../day5)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 7 →](../day7)|
198|:-|:-:|-:|

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