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authorSebastiano Tronto <sebastiano@tronto.net>2025-10-14 21:22:41 +0200
committerSebastiano Tronto <sebastiano@tronto.net>2025-10-14 21:22:41 +0200
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1m4_navtable(← Day 2,../day2,Alta Via 2,../,Day 4 →,../day4)
2
3# Day 3 - A knee-breaking descent
4
5m4_caption({{{{{August 22, 2025}}}}})
6
7## Route of the day
8
9<details>
10<summary><strong>Click to see map</strong></summary>
11<img src="../img/22-0000-map.png">
12</details>
13
14*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day3.gpx) or see the route on
15[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/alta-badia/-2025-alta-via-2-day-3/325541657/?share=%7E3zdmpbrn%244ossqbcq)*
16
17## The lunar path to Rifugio Boè
18
19Our clothes are still wet by the time we wake up. The summer nights
20in the Alps are just too humid. But at least we can finally see some
21sun. The weather is going to be much better for the next few days.
22
23![View from the Pisciadù hut](../img/22-0702-pisciadu.jpg)
24
25m4_caption({{{{{A beatiful view from the Pisciadù hut at dawn.}}}}})
26
27The beds in the hut were comfortable and we slept well. After a comical
28incident with my dad's boots - he put on someone else's pair, not knowing
29that I had brought his into our room, and spent a good 15 minutes
30searching for them - we are ready to leave the hut at 8:20.
31
32![The Pisciadù the lake and Piz Pisciadù](../img/22-0756-pisciadu-lake.jpg)
33
34m4_caption({{{{{The Pisciadù lake and Piz Pisciadù (peak Pisciadù).}}}}})
35
36The day starts with a short but somewhat steep section of the trail.
37There are some steel ropes and we use our simple harness once again,
38although this time we felt we could have done without.
39
40At 9:45 we reach what is likely the highest point of our route,
41an anonymous plateau at 2960 meters on sea level. There are higher
42points on some variations of the route, for example *Punta Penia* in the
43[Marmolada](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmolada) massif, but in that
44section we are going to take a lower trail, which is the more classical
45one according to my guide book.
46
47At this point, we are completely immersed in a sea of fog. It is quite
48cold, probably only a couple of degrees above 0°C, and there is some
49unpleasantly cold breeze.
50
51![My dad resting on a rock](../img/22-0946-fog.jpg)
52
53m4_caption({{{{{My dad resting on a rock, trying to keep warm.}}}}})
54
55The fog comes and goes, letting us see the beautiful panorama for a few
56brief moments.
57
58![Panorama](../img/22-1006-panorama.jpg)
59
60As we walk down from the plateau, my left knee starts hurting. It is
61not unbearable, and it only hurts when I walk downhill. But it does
62not bode well for the rest of the day: our next stop is 900m below us,
63so we are going to walk downhill for most of the day.
64
65At 10:30 we are on top of the *Antersass* (2906m), a minor peak next to
66the more prominent [Piz Boè](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piz_Bo%C3%A8)
67(3152m). We could have walked around the Antersass, but the trail to
68climb up to the top and then down is actually easier. Going to the top
69of Piz Boè would have been an interesting detour, but not quite feasible
70for our 9-day plan.
71
72We reach [Rifugio Boè](https://www.rifugioboe.it), a recently renovated
73hut at 2873m, before 11:00.
74
75![Piz Boè](../img/22-1145-piz-boe.jpg)
76
77m4_caption({{{{{ A view of Piz Boè (peak Boè) from Rifugio Boè (Boè
78hut). The hut on the top of Piz Boè is, perhaps confusingly, called <a
79href="https://www.rifugiocapannapizfassa.com/en">Capanna Piz Fassa</a>.
80}}}}})
81
82We have now left Sout Tyrol. The rest of the Alta Via 2 route roughly
83follows the border between the provinces of Trento and Belluno.
84
85We leave the hut at 11:20. The fog has returned, but it is not as cold
86as before.
87
88The trail to *Foržela Pordoi* (2848m) is mostly flat, and very crowded,
89because of a cable car that makes it accessible even to families with
90kids. I am not sure I like this kind of over-turism in places that
91would otherwise be hard to reach.
92
93## A painful descent
94
95As we reach the foržela, the view opens up on a more diverse landscape
96of grass, rock and forests. After a very short break, we start walking
97down to the Pordoi Pass.
98
99The descent is on a long and steep
100[scree](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scree). I have never liked walking
101down this kind of trail, but now that my knee is screaming for mercy I am
102really hating it. I would have rather walked it up twice than down once.
103
104![The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass](../img/22-1236-pordoi-descent.jpg)
105
106m4_caption({{{{{The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass.}}}}})
107
108We reach the [Pordoi Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pordoi_Pass)
109at 13:30. I need a long break before continuing, so we decide to lay
110down next to a tiny church just after the pass. Luckily the weather
111is nice - or not terrible, at least - and we can enjoy a nice view of
112the surroundings.
113
114![View from the Pordoi Pass](../img/22-1358-pordoi-pass.jpg)
115
116m4_caption({{{{{
117The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sella_group">Sella group</a>
118from the Pordoi Pass.}}}}})
119
120![View towards Canazei](../img/22-1431-canazei.jpg)
121
122m4_caption({{{{{The view in the direction of <a
123href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canazei">Cianacei</a>.}}}}})
124
125## Her majesty, the Marmolada
126
127At 14:10, after about 40 minutes of relax, we are ready to get up.
128
129We walk up an easy trail among ski paths. Here too there are plenty of
130turists, and I can't blame them for choosing to walk in such a beautiful
131place. This is a very common touristic destination both in the Summer
132and in the Winter.
133
134We walk past a strange place called [Rifugio
135Fredarola](https://www.fredarola.it/) (2370m), which looks more like
136a night club you could find the center of Milan rather than a mountain
137hut. They are even playing some electronic lounge music. It's hard to
138describe, but it feels oddly out of place here. But maybe for people
139coming from a big city this is just what they expect to find here;
140I guess it is a matter of points of view.
141
142We continue on a wide, mostly flat trail. For now my knee is is doing
143fine, but I am a bit scared for the descent that awaits us later today.
144And finally we have a good view on the Marmolada, the Queen of the
145Dolomites.
146
147![Me in front of the Marmolada](../img/22-1510-marmolada.jpg)
148
149m4_caption({{{{{
150The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmolada">Marmolada</a>,
151the highest mountain in the
152Dolomites, and its glacier. At the feet of the massif you can
153see the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fedaia_Lake">Fedaia
154lake</a>, around which there are a couple of huts, including the one
155where we are staying tonight. In the distance you can see the <a
156href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Pelmo">Pelmo</a> and the <a
157href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Civetta">Civetta</a>.
158}}}}})
159
160We stop at [Rifugio Viel Dal Pan](https://www.rifugiovieldalpan.com/)
161(2432m) for a short break at 15:30. From there, the steep descent towards
162the Fedaia Pass (2054m) begins. My knee forces me to walk slowly, so by
163the time we reach the pass it is already 17:30.
164
165The day is almost concluded, but we have to walk to the opposite side of
166the lake to [Rifugio Fedaia](https://www.rifugiofedaia.com/). The closer
167[Rifugio Castiglioni](https://www.rifugiomarmolada.it/), where we stop
168for a beer, was fully booked when we planned our trip.
169
170![Fedaia lake](../img/22-1730-fedaia.jpg)
171
172We walk fast on the old road next to the lake, chatting with a local
173resident who helps us keep up the pace. We arrive at our hotel at 18:05,
174after almost 10 hours of hike (including breaks), and we are very happy
175to find a comfortable room with private bathroom waiting for us.
176
177This day was longer than we planned, partly because of my knee. But the
178scenery was beautiful.
179
180m4_navtable(← Day 2,../day2,Alta Via 2,../,Day 4 →,../day4)

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