From 82b9f6c3ff97fccce19e0fa5fe34250bf3790f3f Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Sebastiano Tronto Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2025 22:09:12 +0200 Subject: Fixed navigation table using m4 --- src/av2/after/after.m4 | 5 + src/av2/after/after.md | 7 - src/av2/day1/da1.m4 | 127 ++++++++++++++ src/av2/day1/day1.md | 125 -------------- src/av2/day2/da2.m4 | 167 ++++++++++++++++++ src/av2/day2/day2.md | 165 ------------------ src/av2/day3/da3.m4 | 179 +++++++++++++++++++ src/av2/day3/day3.md | 172 ------------------- src/av2/day4/da4.m4 | 118 +++++++++++++ src/av2/day4/day4.md | 114 ------------- src/av2/day5/da5.m4 | 141 +++++++++++++++ src/av2/day5/day5.md | 136 --------------- src/av2/day6/da6.m4 | 208 +++++++++++++++++++++++ src/av2/day6/day6.md | 198 --------------------- src/av2/day7/da7.m4 | 173 +++++++++++++++++++ src/av2/day7/day7.md | 164 ------------------ src/av2/day8/da8.m4 | 17 ++ src/av2/day8/day8.md | 17 -- src/av2/day9/da9.m4 | 17 ++ src/av2/day9/day9.md | 17 -- src/av2/preparation/preparation.m4 | 189 ++++++++++++++++++++ src/av2/preparation/preparation.md | 191 --------------------- src/blog/2023-10-15-build-time/build-time.md.bak | 119 ------------- src/style-4.css | 110 ------------ src/style-5.css | 31 ---- src/style.css | 31 ++++ 26 files changed, 1372 insertions(+), 1566 deletions(-) create mode 100644 src/av2/after/after.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/after/after.md create mode 100644 src/av2/day1/da1.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/day1/day1.md create mode 100644 src/av2/day2/da2.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/day2/day2.md create mode 100644 src/av2/day3/da3.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/day3/day3.md create mode 100644 src/av2/day4/da4.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/day4/day4.md create mode 100644 src/av2/day5/da5.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/day5/day5.md create mode 100644 src/av2/day6/da6.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/day6/day6.md create mode 100644 src/av2/day7/da7.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/day7/day7.md create mode 100644 src/av2/day8/da8.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/day8/day8.md create mode 100644 src/av2/day9/da9.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/day9/day9.md create mode 100644 src/av2/preparation/preparation.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/preparation/preparation.md delete mode 100644 src/blog/2023-10-15-build-time/build-time.md.bak delete mode 100644 src/style-4.css delete mode 100644 src/style-5.css create mode 100644 src/style.css (limited to 'src') diff --git a/src/av2/after/after.m4 b/src/av2/after/after.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..856dd73 --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/after/after.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,5 @@ +m4_navtable(← Day 9,../day9, , ,Alta Via 2,../) + +# After the hike + +m4_navtable(← Day 9,../day9, , ,Alta Via 2,../) diff --git a/src/av2/after/after.md b/src/av2/after/after.md deleted file mode 100644 index 52898bb..0000000 --- a/src/av2/after/after.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -# After the hike - -|[← Day 9](../day9)|[Alta Via 2](../)| -|:-|-:| - -|[← Day 9](../day9)|[Alta Via 2](../)| -|:-|-:| diff --git a/src/av2/day1/da1.m4 b/src/av2/day1/da1.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..62bc16f --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day1/da1.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,127 @@ +m4_navtable(← Preparation,../preparation,Alta Via 2,../,Day 2 →,../day2) + +# Day 1 - The Odles in the rain + +m4_caption({{{{{August 20, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day1.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/eisacktal/-2025-alta-via-2-day-1/325540727/?share=%7E3zdmcd3i%244ossqbct).* + +## The road to Kreutztal + +Our first day starts quite early, as we wake up at 5:15. My uncle is +giving us a car ride to Kreutztal, which will take a little more than +3 hours. We leave at 5:55. + +We drive up the Cordevole valley, a road that reminds me of the +many hikes I used to do in the Dolomites, usually starting from the +[Falzarego pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falzarego_Pass), +hiking around the [Tofane](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tofane), +the [Cinque Torri](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinque_Torri), +[Averau](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Averau) and others. +But we are not going there this time. + +The road itself is quite scenic. Sorry, I did not +take any pictures pictures. After we go North, we +drive through famous turistic villages like Arabba and +[Corvara](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corvara%2C_South_Tyrol). +But these small towns leave a weird impression on me, as they consist +mostly of hotels and a few restaurants and bars - all closed because +it is too early for turists to wake up. Are these places just holiday +resorts now? + +Just before we reach Kreutztal, our starting point, it starts raining. + +## The hike begins + +![My dad and I, ready to start hiking](../img/20-0924-kreutztal.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{My dad and I, ready to start hiking.}}}}}) + +By the time we reach Kreutztal (2000m on sea level), park the car and +put on our rain clothes, it is already 9:30. And this is going to be +one of the longest days, at least according to our estimates. + +The Plosehütte (2447m) is not far, and we reach it pretty +quickly. Unfortunately, it is closed for renovations, and we can't even +get close enough to take a picture of our first checkpoint. + +At least the view from up there is... something. + +![The Odles, surrounded by clouds](../img/20-1033-odles-clouds.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{The +Odles +surrounded by clouds.}}}}}) + +The clouds came and went, but this is pretty much the clearest the +skies have been the whole morning. Besides the cold and the rain being +unpleasant, the low visibility gave us some technical difficulties: right +after passing by the hut, we found ourselves on a grassy slope and we +lost the track. In normal conditions we would have been able to look +out for the next trail marking, or just walk in the right direction, but +with this thick fog we were forced to double check our GPS and our maps. + +## Down through the forest, then up again + +Luckily it did not take us long to find the right way, and we kept descending +in a [larch](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Larch) forest. + +![Trail in the forest](../img/20-1150-forest.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{A trail in a forest between Plosehütte and +Schlüterhütte - Rifugio Genova.}}}}}) + +The descent is pleasant. We even manage to catch some break from the +heavy rain, and take a few more pictures of the Odles. + +![Another picture of the Odles](../img/20-1211-odles.jpg) + +We reach the Rodella Pass (1867m) at around 13:00, and from there we +walk up to Schlüterhutte - Rifugio Genova (2297m). As the rain became +heavier, I did not take many notes of this part of the route. + +As the trail is crossed by a stream of water, we have to pass a short +challenging section, where we are forced to climb on the wet rock. +The climb itself is not hard, but the trail is not clearly marked +at that point, which left us wondering if we were doing the right thing. + +We are then blocked by a more difficult trail feature: cows. + +![Cows blocking the road](../img/20-1324-cows.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{Cows are blocking the road. +Yes, that little gap is the only way forward.}}}}}) + +After overcoming this zoological obstacle, we reached the +Schlüterhütte - Rifugio Genova at 16:00 and we stop for a slice of +[*Apfelstrudel*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_strudel). + +## The long descent to the village + +At 6 hours and 30 minutes of hiking, this would have been a good +first day. But unfortunately we cannot stop here. At 16:30 we begin +the long descent towards Lungiarü (1398m). + +![Me pointing down towards the fog](../img/20-1703-descent.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +Down there, that's where we have to go. Do you see it? Me neither.}}}}}) + +We walk for two hours in the rain and the fog before reaching the +village. Two hours may not sound like much, but it felt like an +eternity. + +The village of Lungiarü, in +[Val Badia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Val_Badia), is quite nice, but +we have no energy for sightseeing. All we can do before falling asleep +is a shower, dinner, and trying to dry our clothes for the next day. + +m4_navtable(← Preparation,../preparation,Alta Via 2,../,Day 2 →,../day2) diff --git a/src/av2/day1/day1.md b/src/av2/day1/day1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 079f3f2..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day1/day1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,125 +0,0 @@ -# Day 1 - The Odles in the rain - -|[← Preparation](../preparation)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 2 →](../day2)| -|:-|:-:|-:| - - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day1.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/eisacktal/-2025-alta-via-2-day-1/325540727/?share=%7E3zdmcd3i%244ossqbct).* - -## The road to Kreutztal - -Our first day starts quite early, as we wake up at 5:15. My uncle is -giving us a car ride to Kreutztal, which will take a little more than -3 hours. We leave at 5:55. - -We drive up the Cordevole valley, a road that reminds me of the -many hikes I used to do in the Dolomites, usually starting from the -[Falzarego pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falzarego_Pass), -hiking around the [Tofane](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tofane), -the [Cinque Torri](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinque_Torri), -[Averau](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Averau) and others. -But we are not going there this time. - -The road itself is quite scenic. Sorry, I did not -take any pictures pictures. After we go North, we -drive through famous turistic villages like Arabba and -[Corvara](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corvara%2C_South_Tyrol). -But these small towns leave a weird impression on me, as they consist -mostly of hotels and a few restaurants and bars - all closed because -it is too early for turists to wake up. Are these places just holiday -resorts now? - -Just before we reach Kreutztal, our starting point, it starts raining. - -## The hike begins - -![My dad and I, ready to start hiking](../img/20-0924-kreutztal.jpg) -

*My dad and I, ready to start hiking.*

- -By the time we reach Kreutztal (2000m on sea level), park the car and -put on our rain clothes, it is already 9:30. And this is going to be -one of the longest days, at least according to our estimates. - -The Plosehütte (2447m) is not far, and we reach it pretty -quickly. Unfortunately, it is closed for renovations, and we can't even -get close enough to take a picture of our first checkpoint. - -At least the view from up there is... something. - -![The Odles, surrounded by clouds](../img/20-1033-odles-clouds.jpg) -

*The -[Odles](https://www.val-gardena.com/en/dolomites/geisler-mountain-group/), -surrounded by clouds.*

- -The clouds came and went, but this is pretty much the clearest the -skies have been the whole morning. Besides the cold and the rain being -unpleasant, the low visibility gave us some technical difficulties: right -after passing by the hut, we found ourselves on a grassy slope and we -lost the track. In normal conditions we would have been able to look -out for the next trail marking, or just walk in the right direction, but -with this thick fog we were forced to double check our GPS and our maps. - -## Down through the forest, then up again - -Luckily it did not take us long to find the right way, and we kept descending -in a [larch](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Larch) forest. - -![Trail in the forest](../img/20-1150-forest.jpg) -

*A trail in a forest between Plosehütte and -Schlüterhütte - Rifugio Genova.*

- -The descent is pleasant. We even manage to catch some break from the -heavy rain, and take a few more pictures of the Odles. - -![Another picture of the Odles](../img/20-1211-odles.jpg) - -We reach the Rodella Pass (1867m) at around 13:00, and from there we -walk up to Schlüterhutte - Rifugio Genova (2297m). As the rain became -heavier, I did not take many notes of this part of the route. - -As the trail is crossed by a stream of water, we have to pass a short -challenging section, where we are forced to climb on the wet rock. -The climb itself is not hard, but the trail is not clearly marked -at that point, which left us wondering if we were doing the right thing. - -We are then blocked by a more difficult trail feature: cows. - -![Cows blocking the road](../img/20-1324-cows.jpg) -

-*Cows are blocking the road. Yes, that little gap is the only way forward.* -

- -After overcoming this zoological obstacle, we reached the -Schlüterhütte - Rifugio Genova at 16:00 and we stop for a slice of -[*Apfelstrudel*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_strudel). - -## The long descent to the village - -At 6 hours and 30 minutes of hiking, this would have been a good -first day. But unfortunately we cannot stop here. At 16:30 we begin -the long descent towards Lungiarü (1398m). - -![Me pointing down towards the fog](../img/20-1703-descent.jpg) -

-*Down there, that's where we have to go. Do you see it? Me neither.* -

- -We walk for two hours in the rain and the fog before reaching the -village. Two hours may not sound like much, but it felt like an -eternity. - -The village of Lungiarü, in -[Val Badia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Val_Badia), is quite nice, but -we have no energy for sightseeing. All we can do before falling asleep -is a shower, dinner, and trying to dry our clothes for the next day. - -|[← Preparation](../preparation)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 2 →](../day2)| -|:-|:-:|-:| diff --git a/src/av2/day2/da2.m4 b/src/av2/day2/da2.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..78a3280 --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day2/da2.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,167 @@ +m4_navtable(← Day 1,../day1,Alta Via 2,../,Day 3 →,../day3) + +# Day 2 - Trail 666 + +m4_caption({{{{{August 21, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day2.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/alta-badia/-2025-alta-via-2-day-2/325541331/?share=%7E3zdmlslt%244ossqbcn)* + +## The beginning of a long day + +According to our plan, this second day is going to be the toughest. +Our planned route consists of more than 1700m of altitude gain, which +would already be quite a long hike for a single day, leave alone for +one out of 9 days of walking. Moreover, the weather forecasts for the +day are not good - there is chance of thunderstorms in the afternoon. + +Luckily we find someone willing to give us a car ride from our B&B to +the edge of the village, saving us about one hour of walk. We start +walking at around 8:30. + +The first part of the trail is not very steep, and the weather is +not awful either. We even manage to see some mountains! + +![Some mountains](../img/21-0900-up.jpg) + +In about an hour we reach *malga Antersasc* (2084m on sea +level). Around this small abandoned building we see a few +[chamois](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamois) and some very fat +[marmots](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmot) - seriously, these +things were huge! Unfortunately all the pictures I took were terrible, +you need some pretty good cameras to catch them from a distance. Here +is a shot of myself looking at a tree that grew on a rock instead. + +![Me looking a tree](../img/21-0923-tree.jpg) + +After a short break, we get back on the trail and start walking towards +the [Puez hut](https://www.rifugiopuez.it/en/). We could already tell +from the map that the trail up to *forcella Puez* (2500m), before the +hut, was going to be very steep. However, we found out that it was very +well kept, which made it easier than we expected. + +![The trail to forcella Puez](../img/21-1103-forcella-puez.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The trail up to forcella Puez is reinforced with some trunks that +turn it almost into a staircase.}}}}}) + +Unfortunately, as we walked up the weather got much worse, and we were +forced to wear all our rain clothes again, including gloves. + +We reach the Puez hut (2447m) at 11:20, earlier than planned. We take +some time to rest and try to dry up from the rain; I change my socks +and t-shirt, which definitely helps. + +## The forgotten Forcellas + +(*Forcella* is an Italian term that denotes a tight mountain pass, usually +only reachable by a steep trail. I will sometimes use the Italian word +because I don't know an exact equivalent in English. For proper names I +may also use the equivalent word in the local language: *Furcella* or +*Jeuf* in [Ladin](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ladin_language), +*Joch* in German, *Foržela* in +[Venetian](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venetian_language).) + +We start walking again around 12:00, and it is immediately clear that we +have made a small miscalculation in planning the route. We thought +that the trail to [Gardena Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gardena_Pass) +would be straight downhill, but actually we'll have to climb up and then +down a couple of tight passes: *Furcella de Ciampei* (2366m) and *Jeuf de +Crespëina* (2528m). This is easily going to cancel out the time we gained +in the morning. Fortunately, this part of the trail is quite pleasant to +walk, if at times steep; the weather is also not too bad, as we only have +to bear some light rain. + +![Part of the road to Gardena Pass](../img/21-1347-puez-to-gardena.jpg) + +As we are about to reach Gardena Pass (2136m), a strong storm begins. +I speed up to take shelter in a hut down at the pass, leaving my dad +a few minutes behind. I reach the pass at 14:35. + +## One hell of a trail + +The outlook for the last part of the day is bleak, to say the least. +Thunderstorms are forecast until late in the evening. There is likely +going to be a gap between 16:00 and 17:00, but it is not going to last +long enough to reach the Pisciadù hut, were we are going to sleep. We +have to choose between leaving immediately under the heavy rain hoping +it stops while we are on the way, and waiting for the first wave of +the storm to pass but risking it starts raining again before we reach +our destination. + +We choose the former, because it was our best chance to arrive at the +hut before it gets dark. Moreover, despite the forecast of thunder and +lightning, so far it is just raining heavily, which although unpleasant +is not dangerous. + +We leave from the pass at around 15:00, under the storm. The ascent +is not steep at first. Luckily, as predicted, after about one our the +rain stops. + +![A view of the Odles from the Gardena Pass side](../img/21-1559-gardena.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +Our last view of Gardena Pass and the Odles group, on the way up +to the Pisciadù hut.}}}}}) + +But then we reach the infamous trail 666. This is not a nickname, it +is the actual number that the [Italian Alpine Club](https://www.cai.it/) +gave to this trail. + +Actually, this is the easiest of two +possible ways to the Pisciadù, the other being the +[Ferrata Tridentina](https://www.alta-badia.org/en/leisure-activities/climbing-and-mountaineering/brigata-tridentina-route/). +The booklet I am following describes it as "[...] reserved for +well-equipped experts. Don't do it with heavy backpacks; don't do it if +the weather is not good." We get at 0 out 3, the thought of taking the +[via ferrata](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata) does not not +even cross our minds. + +So trail 666 it is. This trail is also known as *Setus trail*, or somewhat +improperly *Setus via ferrata*. It is extremely steep and it is more a +climb than a walk, but it is not a via ferrata. Most maps describe it +as *sentiero attrezzato* (equipped trail), as it does have some fixed +steel rope and handles where the climber can hang a safety rope. + +We have some simple ropes equipped with a +[Carabiner](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carabiner), and we decide to +use them. In the following days we would talk with other people who +took the same route, and some of them would claim that a rope is not +necessary on that trail. I don't care, I was relieved to have my trusty +rope, especially considering the bad weather and how tired I was after +more than 8 hours of hiking (plus the 9 hours of the previous day). And +a safety rope is certainly of no use if kept in the backpack. + +![Trail 666](../img/21-1654-trail666.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{Trail 666 is really steep.}}}}}) + +Overall, the steel rope and the handles are of great help, and although +a couple of times I was unsure where to put my feet and risked slipping, +I would not consider this trail dangerous, if one is properly equipped. + +The reason I found this trail hard was its *length*. I seriously had +some difficulties caused by how tired and sore my muscles were, after +two full days of hike. Sometimes I could not complete a step or a arm +movement on the first try because I just did not have the enough strength +to push or pull up. And it just kept going! + +But at 17:30, exhausted but satisfied, we finally reach the top of +this climb. The Pisciadù hut (2587m) is just around the corner. + +![My dad at the end of trail 666](../img/21-1734-pisciadu.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{My dad at the end of trail 666.}}}}}) + +We, our clothes and our boots are still wet from all the rain we caught +throught the day. Let's hope everything dries up during the night. + +m4_navtable(← Day 1,../day1,Alta Via 2,../,Day 3 →,../day3) diff --git a/src/av2/day2/day2.md b/src/av2/day2/day2.md deleted file mode 100644 index f6fc485..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day2/day2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,165 +0,0 @@ -# Day 2 - Trail 666 - -|[← Day 1](../day1)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 3 →](../day3)| -|:-|:-:|-:| - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day2.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/alta-badia/-2025-alta-via-2-day-2/325541331/?share=%7E3zdmlslt%244ossqbcn)* - -## The beginning of a long day - -According to our plan, this second day is going to be the toughest. -Our planned route consists of more than 1700m of altitude gain, which -would already be quite a long hike for a single day, leave alone for -one out of 9 days of walking. Moreover, the weather forecasts for the -day are not good - there is chance of thunderstorms in the afternoon. - -Luckily we find someone willing to give us a car ride from our B&B to -the edge of the village, saving us about one hour of walk. We start -walking at around 8:30. - -The first part of the trail is not very steep, and the weather is -not awful either. We even manage to see some mountains! - -![Some mountains](../img/21-0900-up.jpg) - -In about an hour we reach *malga Antersasc* (2084m on sea -level). Around this small abandoned building we see a few -[chamois](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamois) and some very fat -[marmots](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmot) - seriously, these -things were huge! Unfortunately all the pictures I took were terrible, -you need some pretty good cameras to catch them from a distance. Here -is a shot of myself looking at a tree that grew on a rock instead. - -![Me looking a tree](../img/21-0923-tree.jpg) - -After a short break, we get back on the trail and start walking towards -the [Puez hut](https://www.rifugiopuez.it/en/). We could already tell -from the map that the trail up to *forcella Puez* (2500m), before the -hut, was going to be very steep. However, we found out that it was very -well kept, which made it easier than we expected. - -![The trail to forcella Puez](../img/21-1103-forcella-puez.jpg) -

-*The trail up to forcella Puez is reinforced with some trunks that -turn it almost into a staircase.* -

- -Unfortunately, as we walked up the weather got much worse, and we were -forced to wear all our rain clothes again, including gloves. - -We reach the Puez hut (2447m) at 11:20, earlier than planned. We take -some time to rest and try to dry up from the rain; I change my socks -and t-shirt, which definitely helps. - -## The forgotten Forcellas - -(*Forcella* is an Italian term that denotes a tight mountain pass, usually -only reachable by a steep trail. I will sometimes use the Italian word -because I don't know an exact equivalent in English. For proper names I -may also use the equivalent word in the local language: *Furcella* or -*Jeuf* in [Ladin](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ladin_language), -*Joch* in German, *Foržela* in -[Venetian](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venetian_language).) - -We start walking again around 12:00, and it is immediately clear that we -have made a small miscalculation in planning the route. We thought -that the trail to [Gardena Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gardena_Pass) -would be straight downhill, but actually we'll have to climb up and then -down a couple of tight passes: *Furcella de Ciampei* (2366m) and *Jeuf de -Crespëina* (2528m). This is easily going to cancel out the time we gained -in the morning. Fortunately, this part of the trail is quite pleasant to -walk, if at times steep; the weather is also not too bad, as we only have -to bear some light rain. - -![Part of the road to Gardena Pass](../img/21-1347-puez-to-gardena.jpg) - -As we are about to reach Gardena Pass (2136m), a strong storm begins. -I speed up to take shelter in a hut down at the pass, leaving my dad -a few minutes behind. I reach the pass at 14:35. - -## One hell of a trail - -The outlook for the last part of the day is bleak, to say the least. -Thunderstorms are forecast until late in the evening. There is likely -going to be a gap between 16:00 and 17:00, but it is not going to last -long enough to reach the Pisciadù hut, were we are going to sleep. We -have to choose between leaving immediately under the heavy rain hoping -it stops while we are on the way, and waiting for the first wave of -the storm to pass but risking it starts raining again before we reach -our destination. - -We choose the former, because it was our best chance to arrive at the -hut before it gets dark. Moreover, despite the forecast of thunder and -lightning, so far it is just raining heavily, which although unpleasant -is not dangerous. - -We leave from the pass at around 15:00, under the storm. The ascent -is not steep at first. Luckily, as predicted, after about one our the -rain stops. - -![A view of the Odles from the Gardena Pass side](../img/21-1559-gardena.jpg) -

-*Our last view of Gardena Pass and the Odles group, on the way up -to the Pisciadù hut.* -

- -But then we reach the infamous trail 666. This is not a nickname, it -is the actual number that the [Italian Alpine Club](https://www.cai.it/) -gave to this trail. - -Actually, this is the easiest of two -possible ways to the Pisciadù, the other being the -[Ferrata Tridentina](https://www.alta-badia.org/en/leisure-activities/climbing-and-mountaineering/brigata-tridentina-route/). -The booklet I am following describes it as "[...] reserved for -well-equipped experts. Don't do it with heavy backpacks; don't do it if -the weather is not good." We get at 0 out 3, the thought of taking the -[via ferrata](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata) does not not -even cross our minds. - -So trail 666 it is. This trail is also known as *Setus trail*, or somewhat -improperly *Setus via ferrata*. It is extremely steep and it is more a -climb than a walk, but it is not a via ferrata. Most maps describe it -as *sentiero attrezzato* (equipped trail), as it does have some fixed -steel rope and handles where the climber can hang a safety rope. - -We have some simple ropes equipped with a -[Carabiner](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carabiner), and we decide to -use them. In the following days we would talk with other people who -took the same route, and some of them would claim that a rope is not -necessary on that trail. I don't care, I was relieved to have my trusty -rope, especially considering the bad weather and how tired I was after -more than 8 hours of hiking (plus the 9 hours of the previous day). And -a safety rope is certainly of no use if kept in the backpack. - -![Trail 666](../img/21-1654-trail666.jpg) -

*Trail 666 is really steep.*

- -Overall, the steel rope and the handles are of great help, and although -a couple of times I was unsure where to put my feet and risked slipping, -I would not consider this trail dangerous, if one is properly equipped. - -The reason I found this trail hard was its *length*. I seriously had -some difficulties caused by how tired and sore my muscles were, after -two full days of hike. Sometimes I could not complete a step or a arm -movement on the first try because I just did not have the enough strength -to push or pull up. And it just kept going! - -But at 17:30, exhausted but satisfied, we finally reach the top of -this climb. The Pisciadù hut (2587m) is just around the corner. - -![My dad at the end of trail 666](../img/21-1734-pisciadu.jpg) -

*My dad at the end of trail 666.*

- -We, our clothes and our boots are still wet from all the rain we caught -throught the day. Let's hope everything dries up during the night. - -|[← Day 1](../day1)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 3 →](../day3)| -|:-|:-:|-:| diff --git a/src/av2/day3/da3.m4 b/src/av2/day3/da3.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b031a04 --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day3/da3.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,179 @@ +m4_navtable(← Day 2,../day2,Alta Via 2,../,Day 4 →,../day4) + +# Day 3 - A knee-breaking descent + +m4_caption({{{{{August 22, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day3.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/alta-badia/-2025-alta-via-2-day-3/325541657/?share=%7E3zdmpbrn%244ossqbcq)* + +## The lunar path to Rifugio Boè + +Our clothes are still wet by the time we wake up. The summer nights +in the Alps are just too humid. But at least we can finally see some +sun. The weather is going to be much better for the next few days. + +![View from the Pisciadù hut](../img/22-0702-pisciadu.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{A beatiful view from the Pisciadù hut at dawn.}}}}}) + +The beds in the hut were comfortable and we slept well. After a comical +incident with my dad's boots - he put on someone else's pair, not knowing +that I had brought his back into our room, and spent a good 15 minutes +searching for them - we are ready to leave the hut at 8:20. + +![The Pisciadù the lake and Piz Pisciadù](../img/22-0756-pisciadu-lake.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{The Pisciadù lake and Piz Pisciadù (peak Pisciadù).}}}}}) + +The days starts with a short but somewhat steep section of the trail. +There are some steel ropes and we use our simple harness once again, +although this time we felt we could have done without. + +At 9:45 we reach what is likely the highest point of our route, +an anonymous plateau at 2960 meters on sea level. There are higher +points on some variations of the route, for example *Punta Penia* in the +[Marmolada](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmolada) massif, but we are +going to take a lower route, which is the more classical one according +to my guide book. + +At this point, we are completely immersed in a sea of fog. It is quite +cold, probably only a couple of degrees above 0°C, and there is some +unpleasantly cold breeze. + +![My dad resting on a rock](../img/22-0946-fog.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{My dad resting on a rock, trying to keep warm.}}}}}) + +The fog comes and goes, letting us see the beautiful panorama for +a few brief moments. + +![Panorama](../img/22-1006-panorama.jpg) + +As we walk down from the plateau, my left knee starts hurting. It is +not unbearable, and it only hurts when I walk downhill. But it does +not bode well for the rest of the day: our next stop is 900m below us, +so we are going to walk downhill for most of the day. + +At 10:30 we are on top of the *Antersass* (2906m), a minor peak next to +the more prominent [Piz Boè](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piz_Bo%C3%A8) +(3152m). We could have walked arount the Antersass, but the trail to +climb up to the top and then down is actually easier than the one that +goes around it. Going to the top of Piz Boè would have been an +interesting detour, but not quite feasible for our 9-day plan. + +We reach [Rifugio Boè](https://www.rifugioboe.it), a recently renovated +hut at 2873m, before 11:00. + +![Piz Boè](../img/22-1145-piz-boe.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +A view of Piz Boè (peak Boè) from Rifugio Boè (Boè hut). The hut +on the top of Piz Boè is, perhaps confusingly, called +Capanna Piz Fassa. +}}}}}) + +We have now left Sout Tyrol. The rest of the Alta Via 2 route +roughly follows the border between the provinces of Trento and +Belluno. + +We leave the hut at 11:20. The fog has returned, but it is not as +cold as before. + +The trail to *Foržela Pordoi* (2848m) is mostly flat, and very crowded, +because of a cable car that makes it accessible even to families with +kids. I am not sure I like this kind of over-turism in in places that +would otherwise be hard to reach. + +## A painful descent + +As we reach the foržela, the view opens up on a more diverse landscape +of grass, rock and forests. After a very short break, we start walking +down to the Pordoi Pass. + +The descent is on a long and steep [scree](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scree). +I have never liked walking down this kind of trail, but now that my knee +is screaming for mercy I am really hating it. I would have rather walked it +up twice than down once. + +![The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass](../img/22-1236-pordoi-descent.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass.}}}}}) + +We reach the [Pordoi Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pordoi_Pass) +at 13:30. I need a long break before continuining, so we decide to +lay down next to a tiny church just after the pass. +Luckily the weather is nice - or not terrible, at least - +and we can enjoy a nice view of the surroundings. + +![View from the Pordoi Pass](../img/22-1358-pordoi-pass.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{The mountains surrounding the Pordoi Pass.}}}}}) + +![View towards Canazei](../img/22-1431-canazei.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{The view in the direction of +Cianacei.}}}}}) + +## Her majesty, the Marmolada + +At 14:10, after about 40 minutes of relax, we are ready to get up. + +The walk up an easy trail among ski paths. Here too there are plenty of +turists, and I can't blame them for choosing to walk in such a beautiful +place. This is a very common touristic destination both in the Summer +and in the Winter. + +We walk past a strange place called +[Rifugio Fredarola](https://www.fredarola.it/) (2370m), which looks +more like a night club you could find the center of Milan rather than +a mountain hut. They are even playing some electronic lounge music. +It's hard to describe, but it feels oddly out of place here. But for +people coming from a big city this is just what they expect to find here; +I guess it is a matter of points of view. + +We continue on a wide, mostly flat trail. For now my knee is is doing +fine, but I am a bit scared for the descent that awaits us later today. +And finally we have a good view on the Marmolada, the Queen of the +Dolomites. + +![Me in front of the Marmolada](../img/22-1510-marmolada.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The Marmolada, the highest mountain in the Dolomites, and its glacier. +At the feet of the massif you can see the +Fedaia lake, around which +there are a couple of huts, including the one where we are staying tonight. +In the distance you can see the +Pelmo and the +Civetta. +}}}}}) + +We stop at [Rifugio Viel Dal Pan](https://www.rifugiovieldalpan.com/) +(2432m) for a short break at 15:30. From there, the steep descent towards +the Fedaia Pass (2054m) begins. My knee forces me to walk slowly, so by +the time we reach the pass it is already 17:30. + +The day is almost concluded, but we have to walk to to opposite side +of the lake to [Rifugio Fedaia](https://www.rifugiofedaia.com/). The +closer [Rifugio Castiglioni](https://www.rifugiomarmolada.it/), where +we stop for a beer, was fully booked when we planned our trip. + +![Fedaia lake](../img/22-1730-fedaia.jpg) + +We walk fast on the old road next to the lake, chatting with a local +resident who helps us keep up the pace. We arrive at our hotel at 18:05, +after almost 10 hours of hike (including breaks), and we are very happy +to find a comfortable room with private bathroom waiting for us. + +This day was longer than we planned, partly because of my knee. +But the scenery was beautiful. + +m4_navtable(← Day 2,../day2,Alta Via 2,../,Day 4 →,../day4) diff --git a/src/av2/day3/day3.md b/src/av2/day3/day3.md deleted file mode 100644 index c0716dc..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day3/day3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,172 +0,0 @@ -# Day 3 - A knee-breaking descent - -|[← Day 2](../day2)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 4 →](../day4)| -|:-|:-:|-:| - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day3.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/alta-badia/-2025-alta-via-2-day-3/325541657/?share=%7E3zdmpbrn%244ossqbcq)* - -## The lunar path to Rifugio Boè - -Our clothes are still wet by the time we wake up. The summer nights -in the Alps are just too humid. But at least we can finally see some -sun. The weather is going to be much better for the next few days. - -![View from the Pisciadù hut](../img/22-0702-pisciadu.jpg) -

*A beatiful view from the Pisciadù hut at dawn.*

- -The beds in the hut were comfortable and we slept well. After a comical -incident with my dad's boots - he put on someone else's pair, not knowing -that I had brought his back into our room, and spent a good 15 minutes -searching for them - we are ready to leave the hut at 8:20. - -![The Pisciadù the lake and Piz Pisciadù](../img/22-0756-pisciadu-lake.jpg) -

*The Pisciadù lake and Piz Pisciadù (peak Pisciadù).*

- -The days starts with a short but somewhat steep section of the trail. -There are some steel ropes and we use our simple harness once again, -although this time we felt we could have done without. - -At 9:45 we reach what is likely the highest point of our route, -an anonymous plateau at 2960 meters on sea level. There are higher -points on some variations of the route, for example *Punta Penia* in the -[Marmolada](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmolada) massif, but we are -going to take a lower route, which is the more classical one according -to my guide book. - -At this point, we are completely immersed in a sea of fog. It is quite -cold, probably only a couple of degrees above 0°C, and there is some -unpleasantly cold breeze. - -![My dad resting on a rock](../img/22-0946-fog.jpg) -

*My dad resting on a rock, trying to keep warm.*

- -The fog comes and goes, letting us see the beautiful panorama for -a few brief moments. - -![Panorama](../img/22-1006-panorama.jpg) - -As we walk down from the plateau, my left knee starts hurting. It is -not unbearable, and it only hurts when I walk downhill. But it does -not bode well for the rest of the day: our next stop is 900m below us, -so we are going to walk downhill for most of the day. - -At 10:30 we are on top of the *Antersass* (2906m), a minor peak next to -the more prominent [Piz Boè](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piz_Bo%C3%A8) -(3152m). We could have walked arount the Antersass, but the trail to -climb up to the top and then down is actually easier than the one that -goes around it. Going to the top of Piz Boè would have been an -interesting detour, but not quite feasible for our 9-day plan. - -We reach [Rifugio Boè](https://www.rifugioboe.it), a recently renovated -hut at 2873m, before 11:00. - -![Piz Boè](../img/22-1145-piz-boe.jpg) -

-*A view of Piz Boè (peak Boè) from Rifugio Boè (Boè hut). The hut -on the top of Piz Boè is, perhaps confusingly, called -[Capanna Piz Fassa](https://www.rifugiocapannapizfassa.com/en/).* -

- -We have now left Sout Tyrol. The rest of the Alta Via 2 route -roughly follows the border between the provinces of Trento and -Belluno. - -We leave the hut at 11:20. The fog has returned, but it is not as -cold as before. - -The trail to *Foržela Pordoi* (2848m) is mostly flat, and very crowded, -because of a cable car that makes it accessible even to families with -kids. I am not sure I like this kind of over-turism in in places that -would otherwise be hard to reach. - -## A painful descent - -As we reach the foržela, the view opens up on a more diverse landscape -of grass, rock and forests. After a very short break, we start walking -down to the Pordoi Pass. - -The descent is on a long and steep [scree](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scree). -I have never liked walking down this kind of trail, but now that my knee -is screaming for mercy I am really hating it. I would have rather walked it -up twice than down once. - -![The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass](../img/22-1236-pordoi-descent.jpg) -

*The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass.*

- -We reach the [Pordoi Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pordoi_Pass) -at 13:30. I need a long break before continuining, so we decide to -lay down next to a tiny church just after the pass. -Luckily the weather is nice - or not terrible, at least - -and we can enjoy a nice view of the surroundings. - -![View from the Pordoi Pass](../img/22-1358-pordoi-pass.jpg) -

*The mountains surrounding the Pordoi Pass.*

- -![View towards Canazei](../img/22-1431-canazei.jpg) -

-*The view in the direction of [Cianacei](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canazei).* -

- -## Her majesty, the Marmolada - -At 14:10, after about 40 minutes of relax, we are ready to get up. - -The walk up an easy trail among ski paths. Here too there are plenty of -turists, and I can't blame them for choosing to walk in such a beautiful -place. This is a very common touristic destination both in the Summer -and in the Winter. - -We walk past a strange place called -[Rifugio Fredarola](https://www.fredarola.it/) (2370m), which looks -more like a night club you could find the center of Milan rather than -a mountain hut. They are even playing some electronic lounge music. -It's hard to describe, but it feels oddly out of place here. But for -people coming from a big city this is just what they expect to find here; -I guess it is a matter of points of view. - -We continue on a wide, mostly flat trail. For now my knee is is doing -fine, but I am a bit scared for the descent that awaits us later today. -And finally we have a good view on the Marmolada, the Queen of the -Dolomites. - -![Me in front of the Marmolada](../img/22-1510-marmolada.jpg) -

-*The Marmolada, the highest mountain in the Dolomites, and its glacier. -At the feet of the massif you can see the -[Fedaia Lake](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fedaia_Lake), around which -there are a couple of huts, including the one where we are staying tonight. -In the distance you can see the -[Pelmo](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Pelmo) and the -[Civetta](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Civetta).* -

- -We stop at [Rifugio Viel Dal Pan](https://www.rifugiovieldalpan.com/) -(2432m) for a short break at 15:30. From there, the steep descent towards -the Fedaia Pass (2054m) begins. My knee forces me to walk slowly, so by -the time we reach the pass it is already 17:30. - -The day is almost concluded, but we have to walk to to opposite side -of the lake to [Rifugio Fedaia](https://www.rifugiofedaia.com/). The -closer [Rifugio Castiglioni](https://www.rifugiomarmolada.it/), where -we stop for a beer, was fully booked when we planned our trip. - -![Fedaia Lake](../img/22-1730-fedaia.jpg) - -We walk fast on the old road next to the lake, chatting with a local -resident who helps us keep up the pace. We arrive at our hotel at 18:05, -after almost 10 hours of hike (including breaks), and we are very happy -to find a comfortable room with private bathroom waiting for us. - -This day was longer than we planned, partly because of my knee. -But the scenery was beautiful. - -|[← Day 2](../day2)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 4 →](../day4)| -|:-|:-:|-:| diff --git a/src/av2/day4/da4.m4 b/src/av2/day4/da4.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5d82a3e --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day4/da4.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,118 @@ +m4_navtable(← Day 3,../day3,Alta Via 2,../,Day 5 →,../day5) + +# Day 4 - The forest and the pastures + +m4_caption({{{{{August 23, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day4.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-4/325541990/?share=%7E3zdmunnm%244ossqbcs)* + +## To Malga Ciapèla and Forca Rossa + +Our fourth day starts at 8:20, with a steep descent on a ski path. +My knee stil hurts, and this points I am afraid I may have to +deal with it for the rest of trip. + +At 9:30 we pass Malga Ciapela (1450 meters on sea level) and we start +walking up again. Soon we find an enigmatic sign which is apparently +trying to communicate that going left or right leads to the same +places. We spend like 5 minutes figuring this out, and we choose to +go left. + +The path is not steep and walking in the forest is enojyable. Since we +are at a lower altitude than we have been for most of the other days, +it is also much warmer than, say, yesterday morning. + +![A view from the trail in the forest](../img/23-1115-view.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +A view from the forest, on the way up from Malga Ciapèla to Forca Rossa. +}}}}}) + +The forest soon leaves space to grassy slopes and naked rock. The way +up is still pleasant, and we have met almost no other hiker so far - +in stark contrast with the previous day. + +![Grassy slops up to Forca Rossa](../img/23-1220-forca-rossa.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The lower clay-red peak on the center-left of the picture is Forca Rossa, +where we are headed. "Rossa" in Italian means "red" - it's nice when things +are what their name says they are, isn't it? +}}}}}) + +We arrive at *Forca Rossa* (2500m) at 13:05. Only in the last few minutes +my knee gave me some problems, but it is not so bad that it makes me +want to stop. + +Here at the top of this trail there are all the hikers that we did not +meet on the way up; they probably came from the other side. There must +be some kind of force field blocking tourists from entering the province +of Belluno. + +![View from Forca Rossa to the Belluno side](../img/23-1325-forca-rossa-bl.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{View from Forca Rossa to the Belluno side.}}}}}) + +![My dad and I chilling](../img/23-1333-chilling.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{My dad and I chilling - quite literally, because of the wind.}}}}}) + +![View from Forca Rossa to the Trentino side](../img/23-1338-forca-rossa-tn.jpg) + +m4_caption(View from Forca Rossa to the Trentino side.) + +## Walking down green pastures + +There is a great view on both sides of this pass, but the wind is cold +and strong and we are not keen on staying long. After eating a couple +of protein bars and taking many pictures, we start walking down towards +Fuciade at 13:40. + +![The path to Fuciade](../img/23-1420-pastures.jpg) + +m4_caption(Walking down to Fuciade.) + +The way down is quite relaxing. We walk among green pastures, where +cows and horses grazed freely. That is, until they are less romantically +slaughtered to make [Bresaola](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bresaola). +But until then they can enjoy the green grass. + +At 15:00 we reach Fuciade (1982m), a location where many families with +kids were relaxing after a meal at [the hut](https://www.fuciade.it/en/). +If one wants a more quiet place, a short walk up the trail that we were +descending quickly leads away from the crowd. This place gave a sense +of tranquillity. + +![Me relaxing in Fuciade](../img/23-1512-fuciade.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{Me relaxing in Fuciade while I enjoy a glass of +radler +- don't be fooled by the Coca-Cola can.}}}}}) + +After a short short break, we move to +[Rifugio Flora Alpina](https://floralpina.it) (1800m), that we reach +shortly at around 16:00. The place is surrounded by the forest, +and the only peaks that are not hidden by trees are the +[Mulaz](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mulaz) and the +[Focobón group](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruppo_del_Focobon). + +![The Mulaz and the Focobon group](../img/23-1818-focobon.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +A spectacular view of the Mulaz and the Focobón group. As the light +changed and the clouds moved, the colors changed as well. I spent quite +some time just sitting outside the hut, admiring these peaks. +}}}}}) + +Now, for the first time since we started our journey, we some time +to relax before dinner. We enjoy a sauna and a hot tub. + +m4_navtable(← Day 3,../day3,Alta Via 2,../,Day 5 →,../day5) diff --git a/src/av2/day4/day4.md b/src/av2/day4/day4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 10cb943..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day4/day4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,114 +0,0 @@ -# Day 4 - The forest and the pastures - -|[← Day 3](../day3)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 5 →](../day5)| -|:-|:-:|-:| - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day4.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-4/325541990/?share=%7E3zdmunnm%244ossqbcs)* - -## To Malga Ciapèla and Forca Rossa - -Our fourth day starts at 8:20, with a steep descent on a ski path. -My knee stil hurts, and this points I am afraid I may have to -deal with it for the rest of trip. - -At 9:30 we pass Malga Ciapela (1450 meters on sea level) and we start -walking up again. Soon we find an enigmatic sign which is apparently -trying to communicate that going left or right leads to the same -places. We spend like 5 minutes figuring this out, and we choose to -go left. - -The path is not steep and walking in the forest is enojyable. Since we -are at a lower altitude than we have been for most of the other days, -it is also much warmer than, say, yesterday morning. - -![A view from the trail in the forest](../img/23-1115-view.jpg) -

-*A view from the forest, on the way up from Malga Ciapèla to Forca Rossa.* -

- -The forest soon leaves space to grassy slopes and naked rock. The way -up is still pleasant, and we have met almost no other hiker so far - -in stark contrast with the previous day. - -![Grassy slops up to Forca Rossa](../img/23-1220-forca-rossa.jpg) -

-*The lower clay-red peak on the center-left of the picture is Forca Rossa, -where we are headed. "Rossa" in Italian means "red" - it's nice when things -are what their name says they are, isn't it?* -

- -We arrive at *Forca Rossa* (2500m) at 13:05. Only in the last few minutes -my knee gave me some problems, but it is not so bad that it makes me -want to stop. - -Here at the top of this trail there are all the hikers that we did not -meet on the way up; they probably came from the other side. There must -be some kind of force field blocking tourists from entering the province -of Belluno. - -![View from Forca Rossa to the Belluno side](../img/23-1325-forca-rossa-bl.jpg) -

*View from Forca Rossa to the Belluno side.*

- -![My dad and I chilling](../img/23-1333-chilling.jpg) -

-*My dad and I chilling - quite literally, because of the wind.* -

- -![View from Forca Rossa to the Trentino side](../img/23-1338-forca-rossa-tn.jpg) -

*View from Forca Rossa to the Trentino side.*

- -## Walking down green pastures - -There is a great view on both sides of this pass, but the wind is cold -and strong and we are not keen on staying long. After eating a couple -of protein bars and taking many pictures, we start walking down towards -Fuciade at 13:40. - -![The path to Fuciade](../img/23-1420-pastures.jpg) -

*Walking down to Fuciade.*

- -The way down is quite relaxing. We walk among green pastures, where -cows and horses grazed freely. That is, until they are less romantically -slaughtered to make [Bresaola](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bresaola). -But until then they can enjoy the green grass. - -At 15:00 we reach Fuciade (1982m), a location where many families with -kids were relaxing after a meal at [the hut](https://www.fuciade.it/en/). -If one wants a more quiet place, a short walk up the trail that we were -descending quickly leads away from the crowd. This place gave a sense -of tranquillity. - -![Me relaxing in Fuciade](../img/23-1512-fuciade.jpg) -

-*Me relaxing in Fuciade while I enjoy a glass of -[Radler](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shandy#Radler) - don't be fooled -by the Coca-Cola can.* -

- -After a short short break, we move to -[Rifugio Flora Alpina](https://floralpina.it) (1800m), that we reach -shortly at around 16:00. The place is surrounded by the forest, -and the only peaks that are not hidden by trees are the -[Mulaz](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mulaz) and the -[Focobón group](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruppo_del_Focobon). - -![The Mulaz and the Focobon group](../img/23-1818-focobon.jpg) -

-*A spectacular view of the Mulaz and the Focobón group. As the light -changed and the clouds moved, the colors changed as well. I spent quite -some time just sitting outside the hut, admiring these peaks.* -

- -Now, for the first time since we started our journey, we some time -to relax before dinner. We enjoy a sauna and a hot tub. - -|[← Day 3](../day3)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 5 →](../day5)| -|:-|:-:|-:| diff --git a/src/av2/day5/da5.m4 b/src/av2/day5/da5.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..97484fb --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day5/da5.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,141 @@ +m4_navtable(← Day 4,../day4,Alta Via 2,../,Day 6 →,../day6) + +# Day 5 - Entering the Pala group + +m4_caption({{{{{August 24, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day5.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-5/325542248/?share=%7E3zdmwhgp%244ossqbdb)* + +## Back on track + +![The Focobon group at dawn](../img/24-0648-focobon.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +Forgive me if this photo is the same at the last one of the previous day, +but it is one of my favorite. It is also quite fascinating how the light +at dawn mixes up all the colors compared to previous day's picture. +}}}}}) + +After a long sleep, we are ready to leave Flora Alpina at 8:20. Our +first checkpoint is the +[San Pellegrino Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Pellegrino_Pass), +(1918 meters on sea level) which is unfortunately a bit farther away than +it would have been if we slept in Fuciade. + +It takes us about one hour to reach the Pass. On the way we saw a cow +breastfeeding her calf, which was cute. We cross the main road on the pass, +and from here we have to walk up on grassy slopes and ski paths. The +signs point to a path that is not the one we planned, but the two tracks +join shortly afterwards. The ski paths are extremely steep, but wide, +so we can easily zig-zag all the way up. + +At 10:30 we reach the *Pale di Gargol* (2218m), a plan that I am not sure +why deserves a name. Perhaps the name refers to the whole area which I +guess could be described as a rocky meadow. + +![The rocky meadow](../img/24-1027-pale-di-gargol.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The Pale di Gargol. The term "pala" means "shovel" in Italian, +but according to the + +Italian Wikipedia page about the +Pale di San Martino +mountains, in the local language it once denoted a grassy slope at the +feet of a mountain range. +}}}}}) + +Once again, the landscape has changed to show us something completely +different from that we have seen in this trip so far. The continuous +shift from rocks, to forest, to grass, to yet other types of rock and +any combination of those features is in my opinion one of the most +fascinating aspects of Alta Via 2. + +![Walking down to Passo Valles](../img/24-1129-panorama.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{Walking down to Passo Valles. +In the background, the Pale di San Martino.}}}}}) + +The trail continues almost flat in this unusual scenery until we +descend to [Passo Valles](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passo_Valles) (2032m) +at around 11:50. We are now entering the fascinating section of +the *Pale di San Martino*, also known in English as the +[Pala group](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pala_group), of.which +the Mulaz and the Focobon group are the northernmost peaks. + +But first we need a break. We stop at a bar on the pass for a coffee +and a slice of strüdel. + +## Veneggia, Venegiotta and Pass dei Fochet + +We leave the bar at 12:20, and in half an hour we reach Forcella +Veneggia (2217m). The view opens up to the wild valley in the south. + +![The view from Forcella Veneggia](../img/24-1252-forcella-veneggia.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{The view from Forcella Veneggia.}}}}}) + +So far, the day has not been particularly challenging. Later on +we'll have to pass some difficult sections, but for now we continue +on some easy, if tight, trails. + +Despite the beauty of the place, we don't meet many other hikers. +In fact, I think we saw more marmots than people in this part of +the route. + +![More mountains](../img/24-1400-venegiotta.jpg) + +At around 14:00 we reach *Passo Venegiotta* (2300m), and about 30 minutes +later *Passo dei Fochet* (2291m). The weather has been good today so far, +but here a strong cold wind starts blowing, and we can feel a few drops +of rain. + +## Through the rocks, to Rifugio Mulaz + +The landscape changes once again. We are now walking on rocks and gravel. + +![Another scree](../img/24-1447-rocks-to-mulaz.jpg) + +We walk down a scree to around 2175m, before starting to climb up again. +It's cold and cloudy, and this part of the trail is a fair bit more +difficult than the previous. Nothing particularly hard or dangerous, +but we have to pay a bit more attention where we put our feet. + +The trail abruptly becomes extremely steep, and very demanding on my +muscles, which so far had been enjoying a more relaxing day. + +![The climb to Rifugio Mulaz](../img/24-1552-climb-to-mulaz.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +Some steel ropes help make the climb to Rifugio Mulaz less dangerous. +}}}}}) + +We reach Rifugio Mulaz (2570m) at 16:40, after a little more than +8 hours from when we left Flora Alpina. Somehow, both these places +are in the territory of [Falcade](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falcade). + +![Reaching Rifugio Mulaz](../img/24-1638-mulaz.jpg) + +m4_caption(Reaching Rifugio Mulaz) + +From this hut, the only landscape you can see, in any direction, is +naked rock. There is a tiny window from where you can see a valley, +but the sight is cut out and the only visible thing is more rocks. +Definitely fascinating, although personally prefer more varied landscapes. + +I'll add a picture on the next day's page, the early morning light +was much better. + +Oh and by the way, up here every resource is very scarce. There is +no drinkable tap water, and showers cost 8€ for 5 minutes. But I +really need one today. + +m4_navtable(← Day 4,../day4,Alta Via 2,../,Day 6 →,../day6) diff --git a/src/av2/day5/day5.md b/src/av2/day5/day5.md deleted file mode 100644 index fdb0582..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day5/day5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,136 +0,0 @@ -# Day 5 - Entering the Pala group - -|[← Day 4](../day4)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 6 →](../day6)| -|:-|:-:|-:| - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day5.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-5/325542248/?share=%7E3zdmwhgp%244ossqbdb)* - -## Back on track - -![The Focobon group at dawn](../img/24-0648-focobon.jpg) -

-*Forgive me if this photo is the same at the last one of the previous day, -but it is one of my favorite. It is also quite fascinating how the light -at dawn mixes up all the colors compared to previous day's picture.* -

- -After a long sleep, we are ready to leave Flora Alpina at 8:20. Our -first checkpoint is the -[San Pellegrino Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Pellegrino_Pass), -(1918 meters on sea level) which is unfortunately a bit farther away than -it would have been if we slept in Fuciade. - -It takes us about one hour to reach the Pass. On the way we saw a cow -breastfeeding her calf, which was cute. We cross the main road on the pass, -and from here we have to walk up on grassy slopes and ski paths. The -signs point to a path that is not the one we planned, but the two tracks -join shortly afterwards. The ski paths are extremely steep, but wide, -so we can easily zig-zag all the way up. - -At 10:30 we reach the *Pale di Gargol* (2218m), a plan that I am not sure -why deserves a name. Perhaps the name refers to the whole area which I -guess could be described as a rocky meadow. - -![The rocky meadow](../img/24-1027-pale-di-gargol.jpg) -

-*The Pale di Gargol. The term "pala" means "shovel" in Italian, -but according to the -[Italian Wikipedia page](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pale_di_San_Martino#Il_toponimo) -about the [Pale di San Martino](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pala_group) -mountains, in the local language it once denoted a grassy slope at the -feet of a mountain range.* - -Once again, the landscape has changed to show us something completely -different from that we have seen in this trip so far. The continuous -shift from rocks, to forest, to grass, to yet other types of rock and -any combination of those features is in my opinion one of the most -fascinating aspects of Alta Via 2. - -![Walking down to Passo Valles](../img/24-1129-panorama.jpg) -

-*Walking down to Passo Valles. In the background, the -Pale di San Martino.* - -The trail continues almost flat in this unusual scenery until we -descend to [Passo Valles](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passo_Valles) (2032m) -at around 11:50. We are now entering the fascinating section of -the *Pale di San Martino*, also known in Englis as the -[Pala group]((https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pala_group), of.which -the Mulaz and the Focobon group are the northernmost peaks. - -But first we need a break. We stop at a bar on the pass for a coffee -and a slice of strüdel. - -## Veneggia, Venegiotta and Pass dei Fochet - -We leave the bar at 12:20, and in half an hour we reach Forcella -Veneggia (2217m). The view opens up to the wild valley in the south. - -![The view from Forcella Veneggia](../img/24-1252-forcella-veneggia.jpg) -

-*The view from Forcella Veneggia.* -

- -So far, the day has not been particularly challenging. Later on -we'll have to pass some difficult sections, but for now we continue -on some easy, if tight, trails. - -Despite the beauty of the place, we don't meet many other hikers. -In fact, I think we saw more marmots than people in this part of -the route. - -![More mountains](../img/24-1400-venegiotta.jpg) - -At around 14:00 we reach *Passo Venegiotta* (2300m), and about 30 minutes -later *Passo dei Fochet* (2291m). The weather has been good today so far, -but here a strong cold wind starts blowing, and we can feel a few drops -of rain. - -## Through the rocks, to Rifugio Mulaz - -The landscape changes once again. We are now walking on rocks and gravel. - -![Another scree](../img/24-1447-rocks-to-mulaz.jpg) - -We walk down a scree to around 2175m, before starting to climb up again. -It's cold and cloudy, and this part of the trail is a fair bit more -difficult than the previous. Nothing particularly hard or dangerous, -but we have to pay a bit more attention where we put our feet. - -The trail abruptly becomes extremely steep, and very demanding on my -muscles, which so far had been enjoying a more relaxing day. - -![The climb to Rifugio Mulaz](../img/24-1552-climb-to-mulaz.jpg) -

- *Some steel ropes help make the climb to Rifugio Mulaz less dangerous.* -

- -We reach Rifugio Mulaz (2570m) at 16:40, after a little more than -8 hours from when we left Flora Alpina. Somehow, both these places -are in the territory of [Falcade](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falcade). - -![Reaching Rifugio Mulaz](../img/24-1638-mulaz.jpg) -

*Reaching Rifugio Mulaz*

- -From this hut, the only landscape you can see, in any direction, is -naked rock. There is a tiny window from where you can see a valley, -but the sight is cut out and the only visible thing is more rocks. -Definitely fascinating, although personally prefer more varied landscapes. - -I'll add a picture on the next day's page, the early morning light -was much better. - -Oh and by the way, up here every resource is very scarce. There is -no drinkable tap water, and showers cost 8€ for 5 minutes. But I -really need one today. - -|[← Day 4](../day4)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 6 →](../day6)| -|:-|:-:|-:| diff --git a/src/av2/day6/da6.m4 b/src/av2/day6/da6.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ec5bc2 --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day6/da6.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,208 @@ +m4_navtable(← Day 5,../day5,Alta Via 2,../,Day 7 →,../day7) + +# Day 6 - The Farangole trail + +m4_caption({{{{{August 25, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day6.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-6/325542632/?share=%7E3zdmb4fp%244ossqbdc)* + +## The starry night + +During the night I woke up and managed to catch a glimpse of a wonderful +starry night, the likes of which I have never seen before. + +If you live in a place with a lot of light pollution, like every medium +to large city nowadays, seeing *a few* stars may already be an unusual +experience. At the moment I live in a fairly small city, and we literally +never see stars over here. We are lucky if we see Venus once in a while. + +But I grew up in a small village in a sparsely populated area, I *was* +used to seeing skies full of stars at night. But this time, at 2500 +metres above sea level, in the middle of literally nowhere, the sky was +soething else. + +I did not manage to take a good picture, sorry. I did not feel like going +out in the freezing cold. + +## The Farangole pass + +At Rifugio Mulaz, the sun rises at 6:40 and sets at around 7:05. +In the morning. Luckily for you, I got up early enough to catch +the sunset. + +![The morning sunset](../img/25-0707-sunset.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +Rifugio Mulaz is closely surrounded by high mountains. This is the only +spot where you could see something in the distance. The sun rises from +the peaks on the left of this picture, only to hide away behind those +on the right shortly afterwards. +}}}}}) + +It's a beautiful day, if only a bit cold. This time we get up earlier than +usual and we are ready to leave at 7:15. The main challenge of the day +is going to be the *passo delle Farangole* (2932 meters on sea level), +a high mountain pass not far from the hut. Our guide book even suggests +a possible alternative route for less confident hikers, but we believed +it to be within our capabilities. + +After steep, but short, climb to *Forcella Margherita* (2655m) we reach a +section of the trail that would not be particularly challenging, it was +not for the fact that the track is not well marked. + +![The trail after Forcella Margherita](../img/25-0740-after-forcella-margherita.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The trail after Forcella Margherita, right before the Farangole pass. +}}}}}) + +In fact, the traces of the hikers who missed the path are *more* visible +than the actual trail, likely because said hikers made them more clear +by backtracking their steps when they realized they were out of the +trail. We do the same a couple of times. + +We soon reach the start of the equipped trail that leads to the pass, +but I am not convinced and I decide to try climbing up the scree next +it. This was probably a mistake, so we soon turn left and attach our +trusty ropes to the steel supports. + +![Me, climbing up to the Farangole pass](../img/25-0830-up-to-farangole-pass.jpg) + +m4_caption(Climbing up to the Farangole pass.) + +The track is very steep, and at times +[exposed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_%28heights%29), but the +steel ropes and the other supporting material is in a good state. +Overall, this famous Farangole pass is easier than we expected. + +![My dad climbing down from the Farangole pass](../img/25-0851-down-from-farangole.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +And down we go. The steel ladder looks like it ends in the void, +but actually there is an extra steel beam protruding from the +rock, and after that there only a 60cm drop. +}}}}}) + +After clearing the pass at around 9:00, we feel satisfied and proud of +ourselves. My knee does not even hurt anymore. + +Little did we now that the truly difficult part is the Farangole *trail*, +which we'll have to go through later this morning. But for now, in our +blisfful ignorance, we enjoy the beautiful weather and we take plenty +of pictures as we walk down from the pass. + +![North view, towards the pass](../img/25-0910-blue-sky.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The view North, towards the mountains we have just passed. +}}}}}) + +![A rocky plateau](../img/25-1009-rocky-plateau.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{An imposing rocky plateau on the South.}}}}}) + +![The view to the North-East](../img/25-1019-north-east.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{The view to the North-East.}}}}}) + +## The Farangole trail + +As the trail gets tight and very exposed, we realize that maybe +*this* is the section the guide book was warning us about. We +proceed carefully, attaching our home-made harness when a steel rope +is available. Unfortunately, most of the trail is on a narrow ledge +surrounded by grass and soft soil, where no piece of supporting material +can be fixed. At least it is not wet. + +![My dad walking on the Farangole trail](../img/25-1109-dad-farangole.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +My dad walking on a narrow section of the Farangole trail. +}}}}}) + +![Anoher hiker](../img/25-1141-hiker.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{Another hiker following us on the same trail.}}}}}) + +Since this trail is challenging and dangerous, we have to keep +constant focus on our steps and the way ahead of us. We have little +time to relax and enjoy the beautiful view, and we take much fewer +pictures than we did earlier. + +![View from the Farangole trail](../img/25-1158-view.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The view from the last part of the Farangole trail, towards +the East. Soon we'll have to walk down to the dry bed of the +river at the bottom center of this picture. On the left, you +can see the tiny line that is the Farangle trail. +}}}}}) + +At 12:30 we reach the bottom of *Valgrande* (*Pian dei Cantoni*, 2310m). + +## To Rifugio Rosetta and beyond + +The way up to Rifugio Rosetta is steep, but short. The previous +part was not phisically demanding, but it was dangerous and +technically fairly challenging. I am relieved that now I can just +let my leg bring me up, and I reach the hut at 13:05. + +![Rifugio Rosetta](../img/25-1321-rosetta.jpg) + +m4_caption(Rifugio Rosetta) + +[Rifugio Rosetta](https://www.rifugiorosetta.it) (2581m) is easily +reachable with a cable car, and because of this it is very crowded, +similarly to the area around Piz Boè that we passed through on +[day 3](../day3). + +This is a good time for a break, so we decide to sit down, drink +a glass of [skiwasser](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skiwasser), and +eat another slice of strüdel. Yes, we ate a lot of those. The one +they serve in this hut is particularly good, with plenty of fresh +fruit and pine nuts. + +We get up and leave the hut at 14:05. The weather gets cold and foggy, +but luckily for us it won't last long. Our plan is to walk down until +*Col de le Fede* (2200m) and then up again to *Pass dei Ball* (2433m). + +The way down is slow and tedious, and my knee starts hurting again. + +![Down from Rifugio Rosetta](../img/25-1519-down-from-rosetta.jpg) + +m4_caption(Walking down from Rifugio Rosetta.) + +The way up to the pass is steep, and there is a long section equipped +with a steel rope. But the equipped part is actually very easy compared +to other similar trails that we have walked this morning and in the +previous days. + +![My dad walking on the equipped trail](../img/25-1606-rope.jpg) + +m4_caption(My dad walking on this equipped section.) + +After reaching Pass dei Ball, we walk down slowly to +[Rifugio Pradidali](https://www.rifugiopradidali.com/eng/Home.html) +(2278m), which we reach at 17:05. + +Later we would discover that there is an alternative route to +go from Rosetta to Pradidali, which starts by walking up to the +East and skips both the slow and tedious descent and the +more steep section before Pass dei Ball. This alternative path was +probably slightly easier, but it would not have saved us that much +time and effort. + +The Pradidali is a nice hut, but there is no phone signal nor WiFi. +The showers are still expensive, and when it is my turn the water boiler +has run out of gas, and I can either wait for it to be replaced or do a +freezing cold shower. I don't want to wait, so arctic shower here I come! + +m4_navtable(← Day 5,../day5,Alta Via 2,../,Day 7 →,../day7) diff --git a/src/av2/day6/day6.md b/src/av2/day6/day6.md deleted file mode 100644 index d7ef6a0..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day6/day6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,198 +0,0 @@ -# Day 6 - The Farangole trail - -|[← Day 5](../day5)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 7 →](../day7)| -|:-|:-:|-:| - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day6.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-6/325542632/?share=%7E3zdmb4fp%244ossqbdc)* - -## The starry night - -During the night I woke up and managed to catch a glimpse of a wonderful -starry night, the likes of which I have never seen before. - -If you live in a place with a lot of light pollution, like every medium -to large city nowadays, seeing *a few* stars may already be an unusual -experience. At the moment I live in a fairly small city, and we literally -never see stars over here. We are lucky if we see Venus once in a while. - -But I grew up in a small village in a sparsely populated area, I *was* -used to seeing skies full of stars at night. But this time, at 2500 -metres above sea level, in the middle of literally nowhere, the sky was -soething else. - -I did not manage to take a good picture, sorry. I did not feel like going -out in the freezing cold. - -## The Farangole pass - -At Rifugio Mulaz, the sun rises at 6:40 and sets at around 7:05. -In the morning. Luckily for you, I got up early enough to catch -the sunset. - -![The morning sunset](../img/25-0707-sunset.jpg) -

-*Rifugio Mulaz is closely surrounded by high mountains. This is the only -spot where you could see something in the distance. The sun rises from -the peaks on the left of this picture, only to hide away behind those -on the right shortly afterwards.* -

- -It's a beautiful day, if only a bit cold. This time we get up earlier than -usual and we are ready to leave at 7:15. The main challenge of the day -is going to be the *passo delle Farangole* (2932 meters on sea level), -a high mountain pass not far from the hut. Our guide book even suggests -a possible alternative route for less confident hikers, but we believed -it to be within our capabilities. - -After steep, but short, climb to *Forcella Margherita* (2655m) we reach a -section of the trail that would not be particularly challenging, it was -not for the fact that the track is not well marked. - -![The trail after Forcella Margherita](../img/25-0740-after-forcella-margherita.jpg) -

-*The trail after Forcella Margherita, right before the Farangole pass.* -

- -In fact, the traces of the hikers who missed the path are *more* visible -than the actual trail, likely because said hikers made them more clear -by backtracking their steps when they realized they were out of the -trail. We do the same a couple of times. - -We soon reach the start of the equipped trail that leads to the pass, -but I am not convinced and I decide to try climbing up the scree next -it. This was probably a mistake, so we soon turn left and attach our -trusty ropes to the steel supports. - -![Me, climbing up to the Farangole pass](../img/25-0830-up-to-farangole-pass.jpg) -

-*Climbing up to the Farangole pass.* - -The track is very steep, and at times -[exposed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_%28heights%29), but the -steel ropes and the other supporting material is in a good state. -Overall, this famous Farangole pass is easier than we expected. - -![My dad climbing down from the Farangole pass](../img/25-0851-down-from-farangole.jpg) -

-*And down we go. The steel ladder looks like it ends in the void, -but actually there is an extra steel beam protruding from the -rock, and after that there only a 60cm drop.* -

- -After clearing the pass at around 9:00, we feel satisfied and proud of -ourselves. My knee does not even hurt anymore. - -Little did we now that the truly difficult part is the Farangole *trail*, -which we'll have to go through later this morning. But for now, in our -blisfful ignorance, we enjoy the beautiful weather and we take plenty -of pictures as we walk down from the pass. - -![North view, towards the pass](../img/25-0910-blue-sky.jpg) -

-*The view North, towards the mountains we have just passed.* -

- -![A rocky plateau](../img/25-1009-rocky-plateau.jpg) -

-*An imposing rocky plateau on the South.* -

- -![The view to the North-East](../img/25-1019-north-east.jpg) -

*The view to the North-East.*

- -## The Farangole trail - -As the trail gets tight and very exposed, we realize that maybe -*this* is the section the guide book was warning us about. We -proceed carefully, attaching our home-made harness when a steel rope -is available. Unfortunately, most of the trail is on a narrow ledge -surrounded by grass and soft soil, where no piece of supporting material -can be fixed. At least it is not wet. - -![My dad walking on the Farangole trail](../img/25-1109-dad-farangole.jpg) -

-*My dad walking on a narrow section of the Farangole trail.* -

- -![Anoher hiker](../img/25-1141-hiker.jpg) -

*Another hiker following us on the same trail.*

- -Since this trail is challenging and dangerous, we have to keep -constant focus on our steps and the way ahead of us. We have little -time to relax and enjoy the beautiful view, and we take much fewer -pictures than we did earlier. - -![View from the Farangole trail](../img/25-1158-view.jpg) -

-*The view from the last part of the Farangole trail, towards -the East. Soon we'll have to walk down to the dry bed of the -river at the bottom center of this picture. On the left, you -can see the tiny line that is the Farangle trail.* -

- -At 12:30 we reach the bottom of *Valgrande* (*Pian dei Cantoni*, 2310m). - -## To Rifugio Rosetta and beyond - -The way up to Rifugio Rosetta is steep, but short. The previous -part was not phisically demanding, but it was dangerous and -technically fairly challenging. I am relieved that now I can just -let my leg bring me up, and I reach the hut at 13:05. - -![Rifugio Rosetta](../img/25-1321-rosetta.jpg) -

*Rifugio Rosetta*.

- -[Rifugio Rosetta](https://www.rifugiorosetta.it) (2581m) is easily -reachable with a cable car, and because of this it is very crowded, -similarly to the area around Piz Boè that we passed through on -[day 3](../day3). - -This is a good time for a break, so we decide to sit down, drink -a glass of [skiwasser](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skiwasser), and -eat another slice of strüdel. Yes, we ate a lot of those. The one -they serve in this hut is particularly good, with plenty of fresh -fruit and pine nuts. - -We get up and leave the hut at 14:05. The weather gets cold and foggy, -but luckily for us it won't last long. Our plan is to walk down until -*Col de le Fede* (2200m) and then up again to *Pass dei Ball* (2433m). - -The way down is slow and tedious, and my knee starts hurting again. - -![Down from Rifugio Rosetta](../img/25-1519-down-from-rosetta.jpg) -

*Walking down from Rifugio Rosetta*.

- -The way up to the pass is steep, and there is a long section equipped -with a steel rope. But the equipped part is actually very easy compared -to other similar trails that we have walked this morning and in the -previous days. - -![My dad walking on the equipped trail](../img/25-1606-rope.jpg) -

*My dad walking on this equipped section.*

- -After reaching Pass dei Ball, we walk down slowly to -[Rifugio Pradidali](https://www.rifugiopradidali.com/eng/Home.html) -(2278m), which we reach at 17:05. - -Later we would discover that there is an alternative route to -go from Rosetta to Pradidali, which starts by walking up to the -East and skips both the slow and tedious descent and the -more steep section before Pass dei Ball. This alternative path was -probably slightly easier, but it would not have saved us that much -time and effort. - -The Pradidali is a nice hut, but there is no phone signal nor WiFi. -The showers are still expensive, and when it is my turn the water boiler -has run out of gas, and I can either wait for it to be replaced or do a -freezing cold shower. I don't want to wait, so arctic shower here I come! - -|[← Day 5](../day5)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 7 →](../day7)| -|:-|:-:|-:| diff --git a/src/av2/day7/da7.m4 b/src/av2/day7/da7.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3bc0251 --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day7/da7.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,173 @@ +m4_navtable(← Day 6,../day6,Alta Via 2,../,Day 8 →,../day8) + +# Day 7 - The longest day + +m4_caption({{{{{August 26, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day7.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/san-martino-di-castrozza-primiero-vanoi/-2025-alta-via-2-day-7/325542923/?share=%7E3zdmdrba%244ossqbdf)* + +## A relaxing stroll in Val Canali + +Last night we had to check the maps, because we were not sure which route +we would be going, according to our plan. We did not remember that the +guide book suggested two possible alternatives to reach the next hut, +Rifugio Treviso: a higher mountain trail, with some challenging sections, +and an easier one that starts by walking down the *Val Canali*, a valley +that leads out of the Pala group and into the *Vette Feltrine* mountain +range. Our plan was to follow the easier route, and we stick to it. + +We leave the Pradidali at 7:30. + +![Rifugio Pradidali](../img/26-0735-pradidali.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +Rifugio Pradidali and a mountain behind it, in a beautiful sunny morning. +Maybe I should have taken notes of the names of the peaks I photographed. +Oh well, too late now. +}}}}}) + +![Val Canali](../img/26-0801-val-canali.jpg) + +m4_caption(Val Canali.) + +The descent is quite diverse, alternating between rocks, gravel, grass +and forest. There are some steel ropes that seem oddly placed in a very +simple section, but they would probably be useful in a rainy day. + +![Walking down](../img/26-0814-walking-down.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +Walking down an easy trail, in a typical Dolomite landscape. +}}}}}) + +At 9:50 we reach the ruins of *malga Pradidali* (1428 meters on sea level). +So far it has been a nice sunny day, and the walk has been easy. But the +end of the day will be very different. + +![The ruins of malga Pradidali](../img/26-0954-malga-pradidali.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The ruins of malga Pradidali. A "malga" is a building where people +temporarily lived in the Summer while their cows grazed the high mountain +pastures that surround it. Malga Antersasc, that we passed by in +day one, is another example. Many malgas are +still in use nowadays, and they often sell locally-produced dairy products, +but unfortunately for us we only found ruins in this trip. +}}}}}) + +The trail continues in the forest, and at 10:35 we pass by *malga +Canali* (1307m). This one *was* in use, and we could have stopped to +eat something if we wanted, but we did not. + +![The pastures behind malga Canali](../img/26-1040-from-malga-canali.jpg) + +m4_caption(The pastures behind malga Canali.) + +We now have to walk up to reach Rifugio Treviso (1631m). The trail in +the forest becomes steep, but it does not last long. We reach the hut +at 11:40, and it is time for a break. + +![From Rifugio Treviso](../img/26-1206-treviso.jpg) + +## The return of the clouds + +After taking a few pictures and a slice of a typical alpine dessert (I'll +let you guess which one), we are ready to start walking again at 12:30. + +Our next checkpoint is *forcella d'Oltro* (2094m). My knee has been +good so far, but I still try not to put too much weight on it. The road +up to the forcella is steep, and we are tired. We have done nothing but +walking steep trails for more than a week at this point. We walk slowly, +but steadily. + +![Forested mountains to the North-West](../img/26-1354-forested-slopes.jpg) + +m4_caption(The forested slopes on the North-West.) + +On our way up, we meet a couple walking down from the forcella. They +tell us that they could see nothing at all on the other side, because +of the fog and the clouds. We are not sure if we should take them +literally, because it is such a sunny day on this side, but indeed +when we reach the tight pass at 14:30 we can see it with out own eyes. + +![The fog oon the other side](../img/26-1432-fog.jpg) + +m4_caption(The fog on the other side of forcella d'Oltro.) + +![The sunny side where we came from](../img/26-1439-not-fog.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The side where we came from, in contrast, is perfectly sunny. +}}}}}) + +We need another short break, but we don't want to stay here for +too long, because, as often happens in these tight high passes, +the wind is strong and chilling. + +We thought this would be the last place above 2000 meters of the whole +trip. Or at the very least for the day, considering that all that was +left was walking down to the +[Cereda Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cereda_Pass). +But we were not exactly right. + +## Down? Not so fast, cowboy + +The descent to the Cereda Pass starts very steep, and quickly loose +about 200 meters of altitude. But then the trail starts going up again, +and slowly but surely we walk up, and up, and up. The road is not steep, +but we are walking on a tight ledge on a grassy slope that requires us +to focus. + +![Me on the tight ledge](../img/26-1603-tight-ledge.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +Me on this tight path that, for whatever reason, is leading back +up instead of down to Pass Cereda. As you can see, I am not amused. +}}}}}) + +Only after we reach the altitude of 2150m do we start going down, +but this time very slowly. We cannot see very far due to the fog, +and in any case we would still be hyper-focused on where we step. +But at least there are some interesting rock formations close to +us that are worth admiring. + +![Some curious rock formations](../img/26-1619-rocks.jpg) + +m4_caption(Some interesting rock formations close to the trail.) + +![A tree growing on a rock](../img/26-1644-tree.jpg) + +m4_caption(A tree growing on top of a naked rock.) + +The trail gradually becomes less exposed, but more steep. My knee starts +hurting once again, but I am not surprised, considering how long we have +been walking since this morning. + +After what feels like an eternity of wandering through the fog, +we reach the hotel at the Cereda Pass (1361m) at 18:15. After +almost 11 hours of walk, my feet and my knees are begging for mercy. + +![Pastures around the Cereda Pass](../img/26-1758-cereda.jpg) + +m4_caption(The pastures around the Cereda Pass.) + +We have a private room at [Rifugio Cereda](https://www.rifugiocereda.com/en/), +where we can have a shower rest well. The food is also amazing: I have +what is one of the best plates of +[*käsespätzle*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K%C3%A4sesp%C3%A4tzle) +of my life. By the way, over here the spätzle are prepared with spinach +and they green not white; I think they do the same in Tyrol, but definitely +not in Germany. + +Unfortunately, the weather forecast for the next day are not as good +as our dinner. + +m4_navtable(← Day 6,../day6,Alta Via 2,../,Day 8 →,../day8) diff --git a/src/av2/day7/day7.md b/src/av2/day7/day7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 357c755..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day7/day7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,164 +0,0 @@ -# Day 7 - The longest day - -|[← Day 6](../day6)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 8 →](../day8)| -|:-|:-:|-:| - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day7.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/san-martino-di-castrozza-primiero-vanoi/-2025-alta-via-2-day-7/325542923/?share=%7E3zdmdrba%244ossqbdf)* - -## A relaxing stroll in Val Canali - -Last night we had to check the maps, because we were not sure which route -we would be going, according to our plan. We did not remember that the -guide book suggested two possible alternatives to reach the next hut, -Rifugio Treviso: a higher mountain trail, with some challenging sections, -and an easier one that starts by walking down the *Val Canali*, a valley -that leads out of the Pala group and into the *Vette Feltrine* mountain -range. Our plan was to follow the easier route, and we stick to it. - -We leave the Pradidali at 7:30. - -![Rifugio Pradidali](../img/26-0735-pradidali.jpg) -

-*Rifugio Pradidali and a mountain behind it, in a beautiful sunny morning. -Maybe I should have taken notes of the names of the peaks I photographed. -Oh well, too late now.* -

- -![Val Canali](../img/26-0801-val-canali.jpg) -

*Val Canali.*

- -The descent is quite diverse, alternating between rocks, gravel, grass -and forest. There are some steel ropes that seem oddly placed in a very -simple section, but they would probably be useful in a rainy day. - -![Walking down](../img/26-0814-walking-down.jpg) -

-*Walking down an easy trail, in a typical Dolomite landscape.* -

- -At 9:50 we reach the ruins of *malga Pradidali* (1428 meters on sea level). -So far it has been a nice sunny day, and the walk has been easy. But the -end of the day will be very different. - -![The ruins of malga Pradidali](../img/26-0954-malga-pradidali.jpg) -

-*The ruins of malga Pradidali. A "malga" is a building where people -temporarily lived in the Summer while their cows grazed the high mountain -pastures that surround it. Malga Antersasc, that we passed by in -[day one](../day1), is another example. Many malgas are still in use nowadays, -and they often sell locally-produced dairy products, but unfortunately -for us we only found ruins in this trip.* -

- -The trail continues in the forest, and at 10:35 we pass by *malga -Canali* (1307m). This one *was* in use, and we could have stopped to -eat something if we wanted, but we did not. - -![The pastures behind malga Canali](../img/26-1040-from-malga-canali.jpg) -

*The pastures behind malga Canali.*

- -We now have to walk up to reach Rifugio Treviso (1631m). The trail in -the forest becomes steep, but it does not last long. We reach the hut -at 11:40, and it is time for a break. - -![From Rifugio Treviso](../img/26-1206-treviso.jpg) - -## The return of the clouds - -After taking a few pictures and a slice of a typical alpine dessert (I'll -let you guess which one), we are ready to start walking again at 12:30. - -Our next checkpoint is *forcella d'Oltro* (2094m). My knee has been -good so far, but I still try not to put too much weight on it. The road -up to the forcella is steep, and we are tired. We have done nothing but -walking steep trails for more than a week at this point. We walk slowly, -but steadily. - -![Forested mountains to the North-West](../img/26-1354-forested-slopes.jpg) -

-*The forested slopes on the North-West.* - -On our way up, we meet a couple walking down from the forcella. They -tell us that they could see nothing at all on the other side, because -of the fog and the clouds. We are not sure if we should take them -literally, because it is such a sunny day on this side, but indeed -when we reach the tight pass at 14:30 we can see it with out own eyes. - -![The fog oon the other side](../img/26-1432-fog.jpg) -

*The fog on the other side of forcella d'Oltro.*

- -![The sunny side where we came from](../img/26-1439-not-fog.jpg) -

-*The side where we came from, in contrast, is perfectly sunny.* -

- -We need another short break, but we don't want to stay here for -too long, because, as often happens in these tight high passes, -the wind is strong and chilling. - -We thought this would be the last place above 2000 meters of the whole -trip. Or at the very least for the day, considering that all that was -left was walking down to the -[Cereda Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cereda_Pass). -But we were not exactly right. - -## Down? Not so fast, cowboy - -The descent to the Cereda Pass starts very steep, and quickly loose -about 200 meters of altitude. But then the trail starts going up again, -and slowly but surely we walk up, and up, and up. The road is not steep, -but we are walking on a tight ledge on a grassy slope that requires us -to focus. - -![Me on the tight ledge](../img/26-1603-tight-ledge.jpg) -

-*Me on this tight path that, for whatever reason, is leading back -up instead of down to Pass Cereda. As you can see, I am not amused.* -

- -Only after we reach the altitude of 2150m do we start going down, -but this time very slowly. We cannot see very far due to the fog, -and in any case we would still be hyper-focused on where we step. -But at least there are some interesting rock formations close to -us that are worth admiring. - -![Some curious rock formations](../img/26-1619-rocks.jpg) -

*Some interesting rock formations close to the trail.*

- -![A tree growing on a rock](../img/26-1644-tree.jpg) -

*A tree growing on top of a naked rock.*

- -The trail gradually becomes less exposed, but more steep. My knee starts -hurting once again, but I am not surprised, considering how long we have -been walking since this morning. - -After what feels like an eternity of wandering through the fog, -we reach the hotel at the Cereda Pass (1361m) at 18:15. After -almost 11 hours of walk, my feet and my knees are begging for mercy. - -![Pastures around the Cereda Pass](../img/26-1758-cereda.jpg) -

-*The pastures around the Cereda Pass.* -

- -We have a private room at [Rifugio Cereda](https://www.rifugiocereda.com/en/), -where we can have a shower rest well. The food is also amazing: I have -what is one of the best plates of -[*käsespätzle*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K%C3%A4sesp%C3%A4tzle) -of my life. By the way, over here the spätzle are prepared with spinach -and they green not white; I think they do the same in Tyrol, but definitely -not in Germany. - -Unfortunately, the weather forecast for the next day are not as good -as our dinner. - -|[← Day 6](../day6)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 8 →](../day8)| -|:-|:-:|-:| diff --git a/src/av2/day8/da8.m4 b/src/av2/day8/da8.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2935b46 --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day8/da8.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,17 @@ +m4_navtable(← Day 7,../day7,Alta Via 2,../,Day 9 →,../day9) + +# Day 8 - The Troi dei Caserin + +m4_caption({{{{{August 27, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day8.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/san-martino-di-castrozza-primiero-vanoi/-2025-alta-via-2-day-8/325543034/?share=%7E3zdmeu44%244ossqbdb)* + +m4_navtable(← Day 7,../day7,Alta Via 2,../,Day 9 →,../day9) diff --git a/src/av2/day8/day8.md b/src/av2/day8/day8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2c35abf..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day8/day8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -# Day 8 - The Troi dei Caserin - -|[← Day 7](../day7)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 9 →](../day9)| -|:-|:-:|-:| - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day8.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/san-martino-di-castrozza-primiero-vanoi/-2025-alta-via-2-day-8/325543034/?share=%7E3zdmeu44%244ossqbdb)* - -|[← Day 7](../day7)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 9 →](../day9)| -|:-|:-:|-:| diff --git a/src/av2/day9/da9.m4 b/src/av2/day9/da9.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..260d39a --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day9/da9.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,17 @@ +m4_navtable(← Day 8,../day8,Alta Via 2,../,After the hike →,../after) + +# Day 9 - Cutting short + +m4_caption({{{{{August 28, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day9.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-9/325543151/?share=%7E3zdmfdkz%244ossqbdb)* + +m4_navtable(← Day 8,../day8,Alta Via 2,../,After the hike →,../after) diff --git a/src/av2/day9/day9.md b/src/av2/day9/day9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7abecdd..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day9/day9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -# Day 9 - Cutting short - -|[← Day 8](../day8)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[After the hike →](../after)| -|:-|:-:|-:| - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day9.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-9/325543151/?share=%7E3zdmfdkz%244ossqbdb)* - -|[← Day 8](../day8)|[Alta Via 2](../)|[After the hike →](../after)| -|:-|:-:|-:| diff --git a/src/av2/preparation/preparation.m4 b/src/av2/preparation/preparation.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b565cee --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/preparation/preparation.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,189 @@ +m4_navtable(← Alta Via 2,../, , ,Day 1 →,../day1) + +# Preparation + +Alta Via 2 is not a hike one can do without planning. Obviously, one must +be sufficiently trained - though advanced climbing skills are generally +not needed, walking on steep mountain trails for multiple days requires +some experience and being in decent physical condition. But there is also +the logistics side of things: Where are you going to sleep? What and how +many clothes are you bringing? Do they all fit in your backpack? And +what if it rains? + +## Training + +We started planning this around a year in advanced, so I had plenty +of time to train for this hike. Unfortunately, since I now live in +the Netherlands, I could not practice by actually walking in mountain +trails. My dad was luckier, because there are plenty of physically +demanding trains that start just a few minutes drive away from where +he lives. + +So I replaced the actual hiking with two types of training: long-distance +running and gym-like leg exercises. + +For the running part, I went for 6-12km run around twice a week. This +is something I enjoyed regardless of my goal of training for the hike; +I even decided to take part in a local half-marathon (21.1km) run. + +![Me, ready for a half marathon](../img/0-leiden-half-marathon.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +At the starting gate of the +Leiden half marathon. +Two hours and six minutes later, I am not going to be smiling like that. +}}}}}) + +The gym part was less entartaining for me, I never liked exercising +indoors. But I managed to train somewhat consistently once or twice a +week for 15-30 minutes. My exercises included squats, side planks, +one-leg push-ups and the like. Boooring. + +With all of this I was quite confident I was going to be in good +shape for the hike. I was more worried about the logistics... + +## Planning the route + +Most sources (including the one I followed, a red booklet that I +can't find online, but whose content is mostly summarized in +[this website](https://www.altavia2dolomiti.com/percorso)) +suggest walking Alta Via 2 in 12 or 13 days, but in this way some of +the days consist of less than 5 hours of walking. On the other hand, +well-trained hikers could complete the whole route in 7 days or less. We +decided that 10 days would be a good middle ground for having a fun and +intense hike without overdoing it. In hindsight this was a good plan, but +I don't think I would have minded some of those short walking days. + +For multiple reasons, we decided to sleep in huts rather than camping. +Since these regions tend to be quite popular with turists, we decided to +book our accommodations early on. We started booking in May, thinking it +would be early enough, but it was not - at least for part in +[Südtirol](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Tyrol). +None of the huts in our first two days of had any spare bed. We contacted +all the places that were somewhat close to our path, to no avail. In the +end we were forced to squeeze the first 3 days into 2, and make a long +detour to reach a nearby village to sleep in a B&B on our first night. + +For the rest of the plan, the part following largely the border between +[Trentino](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trentino) and the +[province of Belluno](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Province_of_Belluno), +was mostly fine. Not every hut in our original plan was available, but +we were able to find good alternatives nearby. + +Our final plan was the following: + +||Start|Finish|Up|Down|Distance| +|:-|:-:|:-:|:-:|:-:|:-:|:-:| +|[Day 1](./day1)|Kreutztal|Lungiarü|1050m|-1620m|22.1km| +|[Day 2](./day2)|Lungiarü|Rifugio Pisciadù|1820m|-690m|19.0km| +|[Day 3](./day3)|Rifugio Pisciadù|Rifugio Fedaia|760m|-1310m|18.0km| +|[Day 4](./day4)|Rifugio Fedaia|Rifugio Flora Alpina|1030m|-1290m|17.4km| +|[Day 5](./day5)|Rifugio Flora Alpina|Rifugio Mulaz|1160m|-410m|17.6km| +|[Day 6](./day6)|Rifugio Mulaz|Rifugio Pradidali|890m|-1160m|12.4km| +|[Day 7](./day7)|Rifugio Pradidali|Rifugio Passo Cereda|1110m|-2000m|17.1km| +|[Day 8](./day8)|Rifugio Passo Cereda|Rifugio Boz|1210m|-860m|12.8km| +|[Day 9](./day9)|Rifugio Boz|Croce d'Aune|800m|-1500m|20.0km| + +For the first and last days, the plan was to have someone bring +us there or pick us up, so we spent only 8 nights out. We did not +realize at the time, but this plan gave us a nice balance between +high mountain huts (for the real mountaineering experience) and +proper hotels (for better comfort); after all, every one of these +hotels was also called *rifugio* (or *hütte* in German, or *utia* in +[Ladin](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ladin_language)). + +## Packing up + +You may find it silly, but fitting all the necessities in my backpack +was the part of this adventure that I was most worried about. We were +going to hike for 9 days, but clearly we could not pack 9 sets of clean +clothes; that alone would almost fill our backpacks. And it's not just +t-shirts and underwear, we needed warm and waterproof clothes too. And +what about food? The huts served dinner and breakfast, but we definitely +needed something to eat throughout the day, too. + +In the end, this is what we packed: + +### Hiking gear + +* Hiking boots. +* [Hiking sticks](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trekking_pole), similar + to [nordic walking](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordic_walking) poles, + but they are usually kept shorter. They help pushing when going up + and keep you stable when you walk down. +* A simple harness consisting of a strong rope with a + [carabiner](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carabiner), to be used + for the occasional *equipped trails* (think of a + [via ferrata](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata), but easier). +* Two water bottles (0.5L + 1L). The smaller one was a thermos-like bottle + to keep the contents warm, but I ended up never filling it with hot + water or tea. It would have been better to just bring two lightweight + plastic bottles. +* Maps: [Tabacco](https://www.tabaccoeditrice.it/en/home-english/) maps number + [30 (Brixen-Villnössertal)](https://www.tabaccoeditrice.it/en/cartografie_en/125000-coast/030_en/), + [6 (Val di Fassa e Dolimiti Fassane)](https://www.tabaccoeditrice.it/en/cartografie_en/125000-coast/06_en/), + [22 (Pale di San Martino)](https://www.tabaccoeditrice.it/en/cartografie_en/125000-coast/022_en/), + plus an older map of the same brand for the Feltre area, that followed + a different numbering scheme. We also had offline maps from + [OpenStreetMaps](https://www.openstreetmap.org/#map=12/46.5905/11.7540) on + our phones - we used + [Organic Maps](https://organicmaps.app/) and [Mapy](https://mapy.com) as + clients - but a paper backup is always conveniente, especially because of + the size. The Tabacco maps were also more accurate in some specific parts, + because they also had some codes for describing each trail's type or difficulty. + +### Clothes + +Most of the clothes we brought with us were made of some synthetic +fabric that was extremely lightweight and quick to dry up. + +* 4 t-shirts (2 or 3 would have been enough) +* 4 pairs of underwear (again, 2 or 3 would have been enough) +* Zip-off hiking trousers that could be converted to shorts (but + I ended up almost always using the in trouser form) +* A full set of "normal" clothes (underwear, socks, t-shirt, shorts) that + I used only in the huts +* A lightweight hoodie that somehow kept me warm amazingly well. I used + it for any temperature betwee 2°C to 20°C, as it did not feel + uncomfortable when it was too hot for a regular hoodie. +* A regular cotton hoodie, that I ended up never using. +* Slippers. +* A baseball cap. +* A rain poncho. I did not like wearing it, because it made me sweat a lot + and I ended up getting wet anyway. But in some moments it was necessary. +* Rain trousers. I ended up never using these, my regular hiking trousers + were somewhat waterproof, and the rain poncho covered all the rest. +* Gloves. Temperatures reached close to 0°C, + and gettings your hands wet with near-freezing rains is not fun. + +### Food and medicine + +* The only food we pack were protein bars. We brought 3 per person per + day, but this was way too much. I ended up eating one ~100g bar per day + on average, because we were often able to eat something + (like a slice of [*Strüdel*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_strudel)) + in the huts we walked by during the day. +* Energy tablets. Some quick source of energy boost, + they were mostly vitamins with some caffeine. +* Plasters, both regular ones and + [blister platers](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compeed). +* Painkillers and other basic medicine. + +### Other stuff + +* Sleeping bag. A very light one is enough, since every hut provided heavy + blankets, but not linens, and guests have to bring their own. +* One towel, [the most thing to bring](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Hitchhiker's_Guide_to_the_Galaxy). +* Soap, toothbrush and toothpaste. +* Wet wipes. +* Wallet, phone, phone charger and a power bank. +* A small planner and a pen, to keep a journal of the trip. + +At 12kg water included, the backpack is quite heavy. I could have saved a +couple of kilos, but in the end we used almost everything that we brought. + +![Me with my backpack on, at home](../img/19-0000-backpack.jpg) + +m4_caption(Ready to go!) + +m4_navtable(← Alta Via 2,../, , ,Day 1 →,../day1) diff --git a/src/av2/preparation/preparation.md b/src/av2/preparation/preparation.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0cea065..0000000 --- a/src/av2/preparation/preparation.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,191 +0,0 @@ -# Preparation - -|[← Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 1 →](../day1)| -|:-|-:| - -Alta Via 2 is not a hike one can do without planning. Obviously, one must -be sufficiently trained - though advanced climbing skills are generally -not needed, walking on steep mountain trails for multiple days requires -some experience and being in decent physical condition. But there is also -the logistics side of things: Where are you going to sleep? What and how -many clothes are you bringing? Do they all fit in your backpack? And -what if it rains? - -## Training - -We started planning this around a year in advanced, so I had plenty -of time to train for this hike. Unfortunately, since I now live in -the Netherlands, I could not practice by actually walking in mountain -trails. My dad was luckier, because there are plenty of physically -demanding trains that start just a few minutes drive away from where -he lives. - -So I replaced the actual hiking with two types of training: long-distance -running and gym-like leg exercises. - -For the running part, I went for 6-12km run around twice a week. This -is something I enjoyed regardless of my goal of training for the hike; -I even decided to take part in a local half-marathon (21.1km) run. - -![Me, ready for a half marathon](../img/0-leiden-half-marathon.jpg) -

-*At the starting gate of the -[Leiden half marathon](https://marathon.nl/). Two hours and six -minutes later, I am not going to be smiling like that.* -

- -The gym part was less entartaining for me, I never liked exercising -indoors. But I managed to train somewhat consistently once or twice a -week for 15-30 minutes. My exercises included squats, side planks, -one-leg push-ups and the like. Boooring. - -With all of this I was quite confident I was going to be in good -shape for the hike. I was more worried about the logistics... - -## Planning the route - -Most sources (including the one I followed, a red booklet that I -can't find online, but whose content is mostly summarized in -[this website](https://www.altavia2dolomiti.com/percorso)) -suggest walking Alta Via 2 in 12 or 13 days, but in this way some of -the days consist of less than 5 hours of walking. On the other hand, -well-trained hikers could complete the whole route in 7 days or less. We -decided that 10 days would be a good middle ground for having a fun and -intense hike without overdoing it. In hindsight this was a good plan, but -I don't think I would have minded some of those short walking days. - -For multiple reasons, we decided to sleep in huts rather than camping. -Since these regions tend to be quite popular with turists, we decided to -book our accommodations early on. We started booking in May, thinking it -would be early enough, but it was not - at least for part in -[Südtirol](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Tyrol). -None of the huts in our first two days of had any spare bed. We contacted -all the places that were somewhat close to our path, to no avail. In the -end we were forced to squeeze the first 3 days into 2, and make a long -detour to reach a nearby village to sleep in a B&B on our first night. - -For the rest of the plan, the part following largely the border between -[Trentino](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trentino) and the -[province of Belluno](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Province_of_Belluno), -was mostly fine. Not every hut in our original plan was available, but -we were able to find good alternatives nearby. - -Our final plan was the following: - -||Start|Finish|Up|Down|Distance| -|:-|:-:|:-:|:-:|:-:|:-:|:-:| -|[Day 1](./day1)|Kreutztal|Lungiarü|1050m|-1620m|22.1km| -|[Day 2](./day2)|Lungiarü|Rifugio Pisciadù|1820m|-690m|19.0km| -|[Day 3](./day3)|Rifugio Pisciadù|Rifugio Fedaia|760m|-1310m|18.0km| -|[Day 4](./day4)|Rifugio Fedaia|Rifugio Flora Alpina|1030m|-1290m|17.4km| -|[Day 5](./day5)|Rifugio Flora Alpina|Rifugio Mulaz|1160m|-410m|17.6km| -|[Day 6](./day6)|Rifugio Mulaz|Rifugio Pradidali|890m|-1160m|12.4km| -|[Day 7](./day7)|Rifugio Pradidali|Rifugio Passo Cereda|1110m|-2000m|17.1km| -|[Day 8](./day8)|Rifugio Passo Cereda|Rifugio Boz|1210m|-860m|12.8km| -|[Day 9](./day9)|Rifugio Boz|Croce d'Aune|800m|-1500m|20.0km| - -For the first and last days, the plan was to have someone bring -us there or pick us up, so we spent only 8 nights out. We did not -realize at the time, but this plan gave us a nice balance between -high mountain huts (for the real mountaineering experience) and -proper hotels (for better comfort); after all, every one of these -hotels was also called *rifugio* (or *hütte* in German, or *utia* in -[Ladin](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ladin_language)). - -## Packing up - -You may find it silly, but fitting all the necessities in my backpack -was the part of this adventure that I was most worried about. We were -going to hike for 9 days, but clearly we could not pack 9 sets of clean -clothes; that alone would almost fill our backpacks. And it's not just -t-shirts and underwear, we needed warm and waterproof clothes too. And -what about food? The huts served dinner and breakfast, but we definitely -needed something to eat throughout the day, too. - -In the end, this is what we packed: - -### Hiking gear - -* Hiking boots. -* [Hiking sticks](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trekking_pole), similar - to [nordic walking](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordic_walking) poles, - but they are usually kept shorter. They help pushing when going up - and keep you stable when you walk down. -* A simple harness consisting of a strong rope with a - [carabiner](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carabiner), to be used - for the occasional *equipped trails* (think of a - [via ferrata](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata), but easier). -* Two water bottles (0.5L + 1L). The smaller one was a thermos-like bottle - to keep the contents warm, but I ended up never filling it with hot - water or tea. It would have been better to just bring two lightweight - plastic bottles. -* Maps: [Tabacco](https://www.tabaccoeditrice.it/en/home-english/) maps number - [30 (Brixen-Villnössertal)](https://www.tabaccoeditrice.it/en/cartografie_en/125000-coast/030_en/), - [6 (Val di Fassa e Dolimiti Fassane)](https://www.tabaccoeditrice.it/en/cartografie_en/125000-coast/06_en/), - [22 (Pale di San Martino)](https://www.tabaccoeditrice.it/en/cartografie_en/125000-coast/022_en/), - plus an older map of the same brand for the Feltre area, that followed - a different numbering scheme. We also had offline maps from - [OpenStreetMaps](https://www.openstreetmap.org/#map=12/46.5905/11.7540) on - our phones - we used - [Organic Maps](https://organicmaps.app/) and [Mapy](https://mapy.com) as - clients - but a paper backup is always conveniente, especially because of - the size. The Tabacco maps were also more accurate in some specific parts, - because they also had some codes for describing each trail's type or difficulty. - -### Clothes - -Most of the clothes we brought with us were made of some synthetic -fabric that was extremely lightweight and quick to dry up. - -* 4 t-shirts (2 or 3 would have been enough) -* 4 pairs of underwear (again, 2 or 3 would have been enough) -* Zip-off hiking trousers that could be converted to shorts (but - I ended up almost always using the in trouser form) -* A full set of "normal" clothes (underwear, socks, t-shirt, shorts) that - I used only in the huts -* A lightweight hoodie that somehow kept me warm amazingly well. I used - it for any temperature betwee 2°C to 20°C, as it did not feel - uncomfortable when it was too hot for a regular hoodie. -* A regular cotton hoodie, that I ended up never using. -* Slippers. -* A baseball cap. -* A rain poncho. I did not like wearing it, because it made me sweat a lot - and I ended up getting wet anyway. But in some moments it was necessary. -* Rain trousers. I ended up never using these, my regular hiking trousers - were somewhat waterproof, and the rain poncho covered all the rest. -* Gloves. Temperatures reached close to 0°C, - and gettings your hands wet with near-freezing rains is not fun. - -### Food and medicine - -* The only food we pack were protein bars. We brought 3 per person per - day, but this was way too much. I ended up eating one ~100g bar per day - on average, because we were often able to eat something - (like a slice of [*Strüdel*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_strudel)) - in the huts we walked by during the day. -* Energy tablets. Some quick source of energy boost, - they were mostly vitamins with some caffeine. -* Plasters, both regular ones and - [blister platers](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compeed). -* Painkillers and other basic medicine. - -### Other stuff - -* Sleeping bag. A very light one is enough, since every hut provided heavy - blankets, but not linens, and guests have to bring their own. -* One towel, [the most thing to bring](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Hitchhiker's_Guide_to_the_Galaxy). -* Soap, toothbrush and toothpaste. -* Wet wipes. -* Wallet, phone, phone charger and a power bank. -* A small planner and a pen, to keep a journal of the trip. - -At 12kg water included, the backpack is quite heavy. I could have saved a -couple of kilos, but in the end we used almost everything that we brought. - -![Me with my backpack on, at home](../img/19-0000-backpack.jpg) -

-*Ready to go!* -

- -|[← Alta Via 2](../)|[Day 1 →](../day1)| -|:-|-:| diff --git a/src/blog/2023-10-15-build-time/build-time.md.bak b/src/blog/2023-10-15-build-time/build-time.md.bak deleted file mode 100644 index 41a3d65..0000000 --- a/src/blog/2023-10-15-build-time/build-time.md.bak +++ /dev/null @@ -1,119 +0,0 @@ -# Build time! - -After thinking about it for quite some time, my girlfriend and I finally -got a nice desktop PC. This is our first build, and the first time I -open up a desktop PC in 10 years or so! - -![A low-quality picture of my desk with the new PC](desk.jpg) - -## Specs - -* CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700 (8 cores / 16 threads, 3.8GHz base / 5.3GHz Boost) -* GPU: Asus AMD Radeon RX 6650 XT (8GB dedicated memory) -* RAM: 2x32GB -* SSD: 2TB NVMe - -We (especially my girlfriend) play some games, but not the newest AAA -titles, and we are definitely willing to sacrifice some graphics quality. -So we went for some "best bang for the buck" CPU and GPU, paying attention -to the power usage, too. - -I also write code for fun, and for one of my hobby projects I would like -to experiment with different sizes of RAM, so I wanted at least 32GB. We -ended up getting 64 because we had some money left in our budget and we -did not need (or want) a better (and more power-hungry) CPU or GPU. - -With the case and all the peripherals, including a pretty good 27" -screen, we got it for less than 1400€, which I think is a good price. - -## Building it up - -We were a bit scared of putting all the pieces together. My girlfriend -has never done it, and the last time I assembled a -PC it was back in the days of spinning hard drives with -[IDE connectors](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parallel_ATA) -and motherboard -[beep codes](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power-on_self-test#Progress_and_error_reporting). -You know, when the PC kindly told you in pseudo-morse code exactly what -was wrong. Those were the days! - -Nostalgia aside, the build process went pretty smoothly - except for -a small cut on my middle finger. Here are some of the things I found -interesting: - -### Black is the new green - -I remember mother boards and graphics card used to be all green, now not -anymore! At least in our case, they are all black. Cool, I guess. - -### Tiny NVMe drive - -Modern NVMe drives are really small! I remember old hard disks being -literal bricks - you would not want to drop one of those, lest it breaks -your toes or damages the floor. Now you would not want to drop one for -fear of loosing it under the sofa. - -### Fans everywhere - -The case has a fan, the CPU has a fan, the GPU has two. I don't remember -there were this many fans in ~2009, but if it keeps my chips cool, -I'll take it! - -### Damned RGB - -We (espcially me) do not like at all the modern "gamer aesthetics" that -demand RGB lights everywhere. So we carefully chose components that had -the no LEDs, or as little as possible. Unfortunately, the stock CPU fan -has more lights than a Christmas tree. Our solid black case saves us here. - -### Ugly BIOS - -I mean, WTF is this screen? - -![A picture of my new PC showing the main BIOS screen](bios.jpg) - -It's like a B-tier early 2000s video game. I think the classic 80s -style, curses-like graphics looked much better. But on the other hand, -who cares. - -## Operating system - -We agreed on using Linux, because we are both Linux users, because all -the games we would like to play work either natively or via proton, -and because fuck you Microsoft and your crappy spyware. - -I use [Void](https://voidlinux.org/), but for a shared PC I would like -something that "just works" with minimal setup. My girlfriend uses -[Mint](https://linuxmint.com/), but she wanted to try out something -new. Debian seemed like a solid choice, and it is -[very similar to Linux](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5ocXFgowZA) -(in case you can't click on the link or don't understand Italian, it's a joke). - -For the desktop environment we initially went for XFCE, but my -girlfriend immediately disliked it because many administration tasks -were counter-intuitive or just impossible (e.g. adding a new user). So -we switched to KDE, and we are both reasonably satisfied with it. However, -I am a bit disappointed to see that it is (still) a bit buggy - some of the -first disappointments include: [Discover](https://apps.kde.org/discover/) -failing to open, KDE "administrator" users not being able to use `sudo`, -the [screen failing to turn off](https://discussion.fedoraproject.org/t/f37-kde-5-27-screen-doesnt-dim-nor-turn-off/73960) -after the set timeout. At least it is not as buggy as the inital KDE4 -release in 2008. - -## Build time? - -So, how long does it take to build Linux on my new Linux build? - -``` -$ sudo apt build-dep linux -$ wget https://cdn.kernel.org/pub/linux/kernel/v6.x/linux-6.5.7.tar.xz -$ tar -xvf linux-6.5.7.tar.xz -$ cd linux-6.5.7.tar.xz -$ make mrproper -$ make defconfig -$ time make -j16 - -real 1m27.215 -user 17m57.806s -sys 1m46.663s -``` diff --git a/src/style-4.css b/src/style-4.css deleted file mode 100644 index 67cc926..0000000 --- a/src/style-4.css +++ /dev/null @@ -1,110 +0,0 @@ -header nav table { - width: 100%; -} - -.logo img { - max-width: 3em; - margin: 0 0 0 0; -} - -.links { - text-align: right; - font-weight: bold; -} - -footer table { - font-style: italic; - width: 100%; -} - -.hosted { - text-align: right; -} - -body { - margin: auto 8px 20px 8px; -} - -img { - display: block; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - max-width: 100%; -} - -code { - background-color: #eeeeee; - padding: 2px; -} - -pre code { - padding: 0px; -} - -pre { - background-color: #eeeeee; - border: 2px solid; - padding: 6px; - overflow-x: auto; -} - -#blob { - background: #ffffff; - border: none; -} - -a { - color: #0f2899; - text-decoration: none; -} - -.links a { - font-weight: bold; - color: black; -} - -.hosted a, -.contact a { - font-weight: bold; -} - -a:hover { - text-decoration: underline; -} - -html { - margin: 1em auto; - max-width: 42em; -} - -h1 { - text-align: center; -} - -td h1 { - text-align: left; - font-size: 1.5em; -} - -table { - width: 100%; -} - -#files td { - font-family: monospace; - font-size: 1.2em; - min-width: 7em; -} - -#log tr:hover td, -#files tr:hover td { - background-color: #eeeeee; -} - -.url td { - font-family: monospace; -} - -table tr td a img { - min-width: 33px; -} diff --git a/src/style-5.css b/src/style-5.css deleted file mode 100644 index 81cde7f..0000000 --- a/src/style-5.css +++ /dev/null @@ -1,31 +0,0 @@ -/* Header and footer */ -header nav table { width: 100%; } -.logo img { max-width: 3em; margin: 0 0 0 0; } -.links { text-align: right; font-weight: bold; } -.links a { font-weight: bold; color: black; } -footer table { font-style: italic; width: 100%; } -.hosted { text-align: right; } -.hosted a, .contact a { font-weight: bold; } - -/* Content */ -html { margin: 1em auto; max-width: 42em; font-family: sans-serif } -h1 { font-size: 1.8em; text-align: center; } -h2 { font-size: 1.6em; } -h3 { font-size: 1.05em; } -body { margin: auto 8px 20px 8px; } -a { color: #0f2899; text-decoration: none; } -a:hover { text-decoration: underline; } -img { display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; max-width: 100%; } -pre { background-color: #eeeeee; border: 2px solid; padding: - 6px; overflow-x: auto; } -pre code { padding: 0px; } -code { background-color: #eeeeee; padding: 2px; } -#blob { background: #ffffff; border: none; } - -/* Tables */ -table { width: 100%; } -td h1 { text-align: left; font-size: 1.5em; } -#files td { font-family: monospace; font-size: 1.2em; min-width: 7em; } -#log tr:hover td, #files tr:hover td { background-color: #eeeeee; } -.url td { font-family: monospace; } -table tr td a img { min-width: 33px; } diff --git a/src/style.css b/src/style.css new file mode 100644 index 0000000..81cde7f --- /dev/null +++ b/src/style.css @@ -0,0 +1,31 @@ +/* Header and footer */ +header nav table { width: 100%; } +.logo img { max-width: 3em; margin: 0 0 0 0; } +.links { text-align: right; font-weight: bold; } +.links a { font-weight: bold; color: black; } +footer table { font-style: italic; width: 100%; } +.hosted { text-align: right; } +.hosted a, .contact a { font-weight: bold; } + +/* Content */ +html { margin: 1em auto; max-width: 42em; font-family: sans-serif } +h1 { font-size: 1.8em; text-align: center; } +h2 { font-size: 1.6em; } +h3 { font-size: 1.05em; } +body { margin: auto 8px 20px 8px; } +a { color: #0f2899; text-decoration: none; } +a:hover { text-decoration: underline; } +img { display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; max-width: 100%; } +pre { background-color: #eeeeee; border: 2px solid; padding: + 6px; overflow-x: auto; } +pre code { padding: 0px; } +code { background-color: #eeeeee; padding: 2px; } +#blob { background: #ffffff; border: none; } + +/* Tables */ +table { width: 100%; } +td h1 { text-align: left; font-size: 1.5em; } +#files td { font-family: monospace; font-size: 1.2em; min-width: 7em; } +#log tr:hover td, #files tr:hover td { background-color: #eeeeee; } +.url td { font-family: monospace; } +table tr td a img { min-width: 33px; } -- cgit v1.3