From 2493edafa949e51f79f8f177def4432331e48dde Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Sebastiano Tronto Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2025 22:20:54 +0200 Subject: Fixed renaming error, proofread day 1, added picture --- src/av2/day1/da1.m4 | 127 --------------------- src/av2/day1/day1.m4 | 143 +++++++++++++++++++++++ src/av2/day2/da2.m4 | 167 --------------------------- src/av2/day2/day2.m4 | 167 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ src/av2/day3/da3.m4 | 179 ----------------------------- src/av2/day3/day3.m4 | 179 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ src/av2/day4/da4.m4 | 118 ------------------- src/av2/day4/day4.m4 | 118 +++++++++++++++++++ src/av2/day5/da5.m4 | 141 ----------------------- src/av2/day5/day5.m4 | 141 +++++++++++++++++++++++ src/av2/day6/da6.m4 | 208 ---------------------------------- src/av2/day6/day6.m4 | 208 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ src/av2/day7/da7.m4 | 173 ---------------------------- src/av2/day7/day7.m4 | 173 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ src/av2/day8/da8.m4 | 196 -------------------------------- src/av2/day8/day8.m4 | 196 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ src/av2/day9/da9.m4 | 105 ----------------- src/av2/day9/day9.m4 | 105 +++++++++++++++++ src/av2/img/20-1150-forest.jpg | Bin 343148 -> 703416 bytes src/av2/img/20-1324-cows.jpg | Bin 219985 -> 647139 bytes src/av2/img/20-1603-schluterhutte.jpg | Bin 0 -> 381582 bytes src/av2/img/20-1703-descent.jpg | Bin 101849 -> 369754 bytes src/av2/img/20-1816-mill.jpg | Bin 0 -> 646104 bytes 23 files changed, 1430 insertions(+), 1414 deletions(-) delete mode 100644 src/av2/day1/da1.m4 create mode 100644 src/av2/day1/day1.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/day2/da2.m4 create mode 100644 src/av2/day2/day2.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/day3/da3.m4 create mode 100644 src/av2/day3/day3.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/day4/da4.m4 create mode 100644 src/av2/day4/day4.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/day5/da5.m4 create mode 100644 src/av2/day5/day5.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/day6/da6.m4 create mode 100644 src/av2/day6/day6.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/day7/da7.m4 create mode 100644 src/av2/day7/day7.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/day8/da8.m4 create mode 100644 src/av2/day8/day8.m4 delete mode 100644 src/av2/day9/da9.m4 create mode 100644 src/av2/day9/day9.m4 create mode 100644 src/av2/img/20-1603-schluterhutte.jpg create mode 100644 src/av2/img/20-1816-mill.jpg (limited to 'src') diff --git a/src/av2/day1/da1.m4 b/src/av2/day1/da1.m4 deleted file mode 100644 index 62bc16f..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day1/da1.m4 +++ /dev/null @@ -1,127 +0,0 @@ -m4_navtable(← Preparation,../preparation,Alta Via 2,../,Day 2 →,../day2) - -# Day 1 - The Odles in the rain - -m4_caption({{{{{August 20, 2025}}}}}) - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day1.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/eisacktal/-2025-alta-via-2-day-1/325540727/?share=%7E3zdmcd3i%244ossqbct).* - -## The road to Kreutztal - -Our first day starts quite early, as we wake up at 5:15. My uncle is -giving us a car ride to Kreutztal, which will take a little more than -3 hours. We leave at 5:55. - -We drive up the Cordevole valley, a road that reminds me of the -many hikes I used to do in the Dolomites, usually starting from the -[Falzarego pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falzarego_Pass), -hiking around the [Tofane](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tofane), -the [Cinque Torri](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinque_Torri), -[Averau](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Averau) and others. -But we are not going there this time. - -The road itself is quite scenic. Sorry, I did not -take any pictures pictures. After we go North, we -drive through famous turistic villages like Arabba and -[Corvara](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corvara%2C_South_Tyrol). -But these small towns leave a weird impression on me, as they consist -mostly of hotels and a few restaurants and bars - all closed because -it is too early for turists to wake up. Are these places just holiday -resorts now? - -Just before we reach Kreutztal, our starting point, it starts raining. - -## The hike begins - -![My dad and I, ready to start hiking](../img/20-0924-kreutztal.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{My dad and I, ready to start hiking.}}}}}) - -By the time we reach Kreutztal (2000m on sea level), park the car and -put on our rain clothes, it is already 9:30. And this is going to be -one of the longest days, at least according to our estimates. - -The Plosehütte (2447m) is not far, and we reach it pretty -quickly. Unfortunately, it is closed for renovations, and we can't even -get close enough to take a picture of our first checkpoint. - -At least the view from up there is... something. - -![The Odles, surrounded by clouds](../img/20-1033-odles-clouds.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{The -Odles -surrounded by clouds.}}}}}) - -The clouds came and went, but this is pretty much the clearest the -skies have been the whole morning. Besides the cold and the rain being -unpleasant, the low visibility gave us some technical difficulties: right -after passing by the hut, we found ourselves on a grassy slope and we -lost the track. In normal conditions we would have been able to look -out for the next trail marking, or just walk in the right direction, but -with this thick fog we were forced to double check our GPS and our maps. - -## Down through the forest, then up again - -Luckily it did not take us long to find the right way, and we kept descending -in a [larch](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Larch) forest. - -![Trail in the forest](../img/20-1150-forest.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{A trail in a forest between Plosehütte and -Schlüterhütte - Rifugio Genova.}}}}}) - -The descent is pleasant. We even manage to catch some break from the -heavy rain, and take a few more pictures of the Odles. - -![Another picture of the Odles](../img/20-1211-odles.jpg) - -We reach the Rodella Pass (1867m) at around 13:00, and from there we -walk up to Schlüterhutte - Rifugio Genova (2297m). As the rain became -heavier, I did not take many notes of this part of the route. - -As the trail is crossed by a stream of water, we have to pass a short -challenging section, where we are forced to climb on the wet rock. -The climb itself is not hard, but the trail is not clearly marked -at that point, which left us wondering if we were doing the right thing. - -We are then blocked by a more difficult trail feature: cows. - -![Cows blocking the road](../img/20-1324-cows.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{Cows are blocking the road. -Yes, that little gap is the only way forward.}}}}}) - -After overcoming this zoological obstacle, we reached the -Schlüterhütte - Rifugio Genova at 16:00 and we stop for a slice of -[*Apfelstrudel*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_strudel). - -## The long descent to the village - -At 6 hours and 30 minutes of hiking, this would have been a good -first day. But unfortunately we cannot stop here. At 16:30 we begin -the long descent towards Lungiarü (1398m). - -![Me pointing down towards the fog](../img/20-1703-descent.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -Down there, that's where we have to go. Do you see it? Me neither.}}}}}) - -We walk for two hours in the rain and the fog before reaching the -village. Two hours may not sound like much, but it felt like an -eternity. - -The village of Lungiarü, in -[Val Badia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Val_Badia), is quite nice, but -we have no energy for sightseeing. All we can do before falling asleep -is a shower, dinner, and trying to dry our clothes for the next day. - -m4_navtable(← Preparation,../preparation,Alta Via 2,../,Day 2 →,../day2) diff --git a/src/av2/day1/day1.m4 b/src/av2/day1/day1.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e059aee --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day1/day1.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,143 @@ +m4_navtable(← Preparation,../preparation,Alta Via 2,../,Day 2 →,../day2) + +# Day 1 - The Odles in the rain + +m4_caption({{{{{August 20, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day1.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/eisacktal/-2025-alta-via-2-day-1/325540727/?share=%7E3zdmcd3i%244ossqbct).* + +## The road to Kreutztal + +Our first day starts quite early, as we wake up at 5:15. My uncle is +giving us a car ride to Kreutztal, which will take a little more than +3 hours. We leave at 5:55. + +We drive up the Cordevole valley, a road that reminds me of the +many hikes I used to do in the Dolomites, usually starting from the +[Falzarego pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falzarego_Pass), +hiking around the [Tofane](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tofane), +the [Cinque Torri](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinque_Torri), +[Averau](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Averau) and others. +But we are not going there this time. + +The road itself is quite scenic. Sorry, I did not +take any pictures pictures. Going North, we drive +through popular touristic destinations like Arabba and +[Corvara](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corvara%2C_South_Tyrol). +But these small towns leave a weird impression on me, as they are made +up mostly of hotels and a few restaurants and bars - all closed because +it is too early for turists to wake up. Are these places just holiday +resorts now? + +Just before we reach Kreutztal, our starting point, it starts raining. + +## The hike begins + +![My dad and I, ready to start hiking](../img/20-0924-kreutztal.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{My dad and I, ready to start hiking.}}}}}) + +By the time we reach Kreutztal (2000 meters on sea level), park the car +and put on our rain clothes, it is already 9:30. And this is going to +be one of the longest days, at least according to our estimates. + +The [Plosehütte](https://www.plosehuette.com/en/) (2447m) is not +far, and we reach it pretty quickly. Unfortunately, it is closed for +renovations, and we can't even get close enough to take a picture of +our first checkpoint. + +At least the view from up there is... something. + +![The Odles, surrounded by clouds](../img/20-1033-odles-clouds.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{The Odles +surrounded by clouds.}}}}}) + +The clouds came and went, but this is pretty much the clearest the +skies have been the whole morning. Besides the cold and the rain being +unpleasant, the low visibility gave us some technical difficulties: +right after passing by the hut, we found ourselves on a grassy slope and +we lost the track. In normal conditions we would have been able to look +out for the next trail marking, but with this thick fog we were forced +to double check our GPS and our maps. + +## Down through the forest, then up again + +Luckily, it did not take us long to find the right way, and we kept +descending in a [larch](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Larch) forest. + +![Trail in the forest](../img/20-1150-forest.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{A trail in a forest between Plosehütte and +Schlüterhütte - Rifugio Genova.}}}}}) + +The descent is pleasant. We even manage to catch some break from the +heavy rain, and take a few more pictures of the Odles. + +![Another picture of the Odles](../img/20-1211-odles.jpg) + +We reach the Rodella Pass (1867m) at around 13:00, +and from there we walk up to [Schlüterhutte - Rifugio +Genova](https://www.schlueterhuette.com/en/) (2297m). I did not take +many notes of this part of the journey, there was too much rain for me +to take out my journal and write. + +As the trail is crossed by a stream of water, we have to pass a short +challenging section, where we are forced to climb on the wet rock. +The climb itself is not hard, but the trail is not clearly marked at +that point, which left us wondering if we were doing the right thing. + +We are then blocked by a more difficult trail feature: cows. + +![Cows blocking the road](../img/20-1324-cows.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{Cows are blocking the road. Yes, that little gap is +the only way forward.}}}}}) + +After overcoming this zoological obstacle, we reached the +Schlüterhütte - Rifugio Genova at 16:00 and we stop for a slice of +[*Apfelstrudel*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_strudel). + +![Rifugio Genova in the fog](../img/20-1603-schluterhutte.jpg) + +m4_caption(Rifugio Genova - Schlüterhütte in the fog.) + +## The long descent to the village + +At 6 hours and 30 minutes of hiking, this would have been a good first +day. But unfortunately we cannot stop here. At 16:30 we begin the long +descent towards Lungiarü (1398m). + +![Me pointing down towards the fog](../img/20-1703-descent.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{Down there, that's where we have to go. Do you see +it? Me neither.}}}}}) + +We walk for two hours in the rain and the fog before reaching the +village. Two hours may not sound like much, but it felt like an eternity. + +Just before the village, we pass by a place called +[*Val di Morins*](https://www.alta-badia.org/en/highlights/sights/val-di-morins-mill-valley/), +which means "Mill Valley" in Ladin. + +![A watermill](../img/20-1816-mill.jpg) +m4_caption({{{{{ +A watermill. In this area it was common to build half-pipes +with larch trunks to lead the water to the mill. +}}}}}) + +The village of Lungiarü, in [Val +Badia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Val_Badia), is quite nice, but we +have no energy left for sightseeing. All we can do before falling asleep +is a shower, dinner, and trying to dry our clothes for the next day. + +m4_navtable(← Preparation,../preparation,Alta Via 2,../,Day 2 →,../day2) diff --git a/src/av2/day2/da2.m4 b/src/av2/day2/da2.m4 deleted file mode 100644 index 78a3280..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day2/da2.m4 +++ /dev/null @@ -1,167 +0,0 @@ -m4_navtable(← Day 1,../day1,Alta Via 2,../,Day 3 →,../day3) - -# Day 2 - Trail 666 - -m4_caption({{{{{August 21, 2025}}}}}) - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day2.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/alta-badia/-2025-alta-via-2-day-2/325541331/?share=%7E3zdmlslt%244ossqbcn)* - -## The beginning of a long day - -According to our plan, this second day is going to be the toughest. -Our planned route consists of more than 1700m of altitude gain, which -would already be quite a long hike for a single day, leave alone for -one out of 9 days of walking. Moreover, the weather forecasts for the -day are not good - there is chance of thunderstorms in the afternoon. - -Luckily we find someone willing to give us a car ride from our B&B to -the edge of the village, saving us about one hour of walk. We start -walking at around 8:30. - -The first part of the trail is not very steep, and the weather is -not awful either. We even manage to see some mountains! - -![Some mountains](../img/21-0900-up.jpg) - -In about an hour we reach *malga Antersasc* (2084m on sea -level). Around this small abandoned building we see a few -[chamois](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamois) and some very fat -[marmots](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmot) - seriously, these -things were huge! Unfortunately all the pictures I took were terrible, -you need some pretty good cameras to catch them from a distance. Here -is a shot of myself looking at a tree that grew on a rock instead. - -![Me looking a tree](../img/21-0923-tree.jpg) - -After a short break, we get back on the trail and start walking towards -the [Puez hut](https://www.rifugiopuez.it/en/). We could already tell -from the map that the trail up to *forcella Puez* (2500m), before the -hut, was going to be very steep. However, we found out that it was very -well kept, which made it easier than we expected. - -![The trail to forcella Puez](../img/21-1103-forcella-puez.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -The trail up to forcella Puez is reinforced with some trunks that -turn it almost into a staircase.}}}}}) - -Unfortunately, as we walked up the weather got much worse, and we were -forced to wear all our rain clothes again, including gloves. - -We reach the Puez hut (2447m) at 11:20, earlier than planned. We take -some time to rest and try to dry up from the rain; I change my socks -and t-shirt, which definitely helps. - -## The forgotten Forcellas - -(*Forcella* is an Italian term that denotes a tight mountain pass, usually -only reachable by a steep trail. I will sometimes use the Italian word -because I don't know an exact equivalent in English. For proper names I -may also use the equivalent word in the local language: *Furcella* or -*Jeuf* in [Ladin](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ladin_language), -*Joch* in German, *Foržela* in -[Venetian](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venetian_language).) - -We start walking again around 12:00, and it is immediately clear that we -have made a small miscalculation in planning the route. We thought -that the trail to [Gardena Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gardena_Pass) -would be straight downhill, but actually we'll have to climb up and then -down a couple of tight passes: *Furcella de Ciampei* (2366m) and *Jeuf de -Crespëina* (2528m). This is easily going to cancel out the time we gained -in the morning. Fortunately, this part of the trail is quite pleasant to -walk, if at times steep; the weather is also not too bad, as we only have -to bear some light rain. - -![Part of the road to Gardena Pass](../img/21-1347-puez-to-gardena.jpg) - -As we are about to reach Gardena Pass (2136m), a strong storm begins. -I speed up to take shelter in a hut down at the pass, leaving my dad -a few minutes behind. I reach the pass at 14:35. - -## One hell of a trail - -The outlook for the last part of the day is bleak, to say the least. -Thunderstorms are forecast until late in the evening. There is likely -going to be a gap between 16:00 and 17:00, but it is not going to last -long enough to reach the Pisciadù hut, were we are going to sleep. We -have to choose between leaving immediately under the heavy rain hoping -it stops while we are on the way, and waiting for the first wave of -the storm to pass but risking it starts raining again before we reach -our destination. - -We choose the former, because it was our best chance to arrive at the -hut before it gets dark. Moreover, despite the forecast of thunder and -lightning, so far it is just raining heavily, which although unpleasant -is not dangerous. - -We leave from the pass at around 15:00, under the storm. The ascent -is not steep at first. Luckily, as predicted, after about one our the -rain stops. - -![A view of the Odles from the Gardena Pass side](../img/21-1559-gardena.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -Our last view of Gardena Pass and the Odles group, on the way up -to the Pisciadù hut.}}}}}) - -But then we reach the infamous trail 666. This is not a nickname, it -is the actual number that the [Italian Alpine Club](https://www.cai.it/) -gave to this trail. - -Actually, this is the easiest of two -possible ways to the Pisciadù, the other being the -[Ferrata Tridentina](https://www.alta-badia.org/en/leisure-activities/climbing-and-mountaineering/brigata-tridentina-route/). -The booklet I am following describes it as "[...] reserved for -well-equipped experts. Don't do it with heavy backpacks; don't do it if -the weather is not good." We get at 0 out 3, the thought of taking the -[via ferrata](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata) does not not -even cross our minds. - -So trail 666 it is. This trail is also known as *Setus trail*, or somewhat -improperly *Setus via ferrata*. It is extremely steep and it is more a -climb than a walk, but it is not a via ferrata. Most maps describe it -as *sentiero attrezzato* (equipped trail), as it does have some fixed -steel rope and handles where the climber can hang a safety rope. - -We have some simple ropes equipped with a -[Carabiner](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carabiner), and we decide to -use them. In the following days we would talk with other people who -took the same route, and some of them would claim that a rope is not -necessary on that trail. I don't care, I was relieved to have my trusty -rope, especially considering the bad weather and how tired I was after -more than 8 hours of hiking (plus the 9 hours of the previous day). And -a safety rope is certainly of no use if kept in the backpack. - -![Trail 666](../img/21-1654-trail666.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{Trail 666 is really steep.}}}}}) - -Overall, the steel rope and the handles are of great help, and although -a couple of times I was unsure where to put my feet and risked slipping, -I would not consider this trail dangerous, if one is properly equipped. - -The reason I found this trail hard was its *length*. I seriously had -some difficulties caused by how tired and sore my muscles were, after -two full days of hike. Sometimes I could not complete a step or a arm -movement on the first try because I just did not have the enough strength -to push or pull up. And it just kept going! - -But at 17:30, exhausted but satisfied, we finally reach the top of -this climb. The Pisciadù hut (2587m) is just around the corner. - -![My dad at the end of trail 666](../img/21-1734-pisciadu.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{My dad at the end of trail 666.}}}}}) - -We, our clothes and our boots are still wet from all the rain we caught -throught the day. Let's hope everything dries up during the night. - -m4_navtable(← Day 1,../day1,Alta Via 2,../,Day 3 →,../day3) diff --git a/src/av2/day2/day2.m4 b/src/av2/day2/day2.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..78a3280 --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day2/day2.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,167 @@ +m4_navtable(← Day 1,../day1,Alta Via 2,../,Day 3 →,../day3) + +# Day 2 - Trail 666 + +m4_caption({{{{{August 21, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day2.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/alta-badia/-2025-alta-via-2-day-2/325541331/?share=%7E3zdmlslt%244ossqbcn)* + +## The beginning of a long day + +According to our plan, this second day is going to be the toughest. +Our planned route consists of more than 1700m of altitude gain, which +would already be quite a long hike for a single day, leave alone for +one out of 9 days of walking. Moreover, the weather forecasts for the +day are not good - there is chance of thunderstorms in the afternoon. + +Luckily we find someone willing to give us a car ride from our B&B to +the edge of the village, saving us about one hour of walk. We start +walking at around 8:30. + +The first part of the trail is not very steep, and the weather is +not awful either. We even manage to see some mountains! + +![Some mountains](../img/21-0900-up.jpg) + +In about an hour we reach *malga Antersasc* (2084m on sea +level). Around this small abandoned building we see a few +[chamois](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamois) and some very fat +[marmots](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmot) - seriously, these +things were huge! Unfortunately all the pictures I took were terrible, +you need some pretty good cameras to catch them from a distance. Here +is a shot of myself looking at a tree that grew on a rock instead. + +![Me looking a tree](../img/21-0923-tree.jpg) + +After a short break, we get back on the trail and start walking towards +the [Puez hut](https://www.rifugiopuez.it/en/). We could already tell +from the map that the trail up to *forcella Puez* (2500m), before the +hut, was going to be very steep. However, we found out that it was very +well kept, which made it easier than we expected. + +![The trail to forcella Puez](../img/21-1103-forcella-puez.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The trail up to forcella Puez is reinforced with some trunks that +turn it almost into a staircase.}}}}}) + +Unfortunately, as we walked up the weather got much worse, and we were +forced to wear all our rain clothes again, including gloves. + +We reach the Puez hut (2447m) at 11:20, earlier than planned. We take +some time to rest and try to dry up from the rain; I change my socks +and t-shirt, which definitely helps. + +## The forgotten Forcellas + +(*Forcella* is an Italian term that denotes a tight mountain pass, usually +only reachable by a steep trail. I will sometimes use the Italian word +because I don't know an exact equivalent in English. For proper names I +may also use the equivalent word in the local language: *Furcella* or +*Jeuf* in [Ladin](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ladin_language), +*Joch* in German, *Foržela* in +[Venetian](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venetian_language).) + +We start walking again around 12:00, and it is immediately clear that we +have made a small miscalculation in planning the route. We thought +that the trail to [Gardena Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gardena_Pass) +would be straight downhill, but actually we'll have to climb up and then +down a couple of tight passes: *Furcella de Ciampei* (2366m) and *Jeuf de +Crespëina* (2528m). This is easily going to cancel out the time we gained +in the morning. Fortunately, this part of the trail is quite pleasant to +walk, if at times steep; the weather is also not too bad, as we only have +to bear some light rain. + +![Part of the road to Gardena Pass](../img/21-1347-puez-to-gardena.jpg) + +As we are about to reach Gardena Pass (2136m), a strong storm begins. +I speed up to take shelter in a hut down at the pass, leaving my dad +a few minutes behind. I reach the pass at 14:35. + +## One hell of a trail + +The outlook for the last part of the day is bleak, to say the least. +Thunderstorms are forecast until late in the evening. There is likely +going to be a gap between 16:00 and 17:00, but it is not going to last +long enough to reach the Pisciadù hut, were we are going to sleep. We +have to choose between leaving immediately under the heavy rain hoping +it stops while we are on the way, and waiting for the first wave of +the storm to pass but risking it starts raining again before we reach +our destination. + +We choose the former, because it was our best chance to arrive at the +hut before it gets dark. Moreover, despite the forecast of thunder and +lightning, so far it is just raining heavily, which although unpleasant +is not dangerous. + +We leave from the pass at around 15:00, under the storm. The ascent +is not steep at first. Luckily, as predicted, after about one our the +rain stops. + +![A view of the Odles from the Gardena Pass side](../img/21-1559-gardena.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +Our last view of Gardena Pass and the Odles group, on the way up +to the Pisciadù hut.}}}}}) + +But then we reach the infamous trail 666. This is not a nickname, it +is the actual number that the [Italian Alpine Club](https://www.cai.it/) +gave to this trail. + +Actually, this is the easiest of two +possible ways to the Pisciadù, the other being the +[Ferrata Tridentina](https://www.alta-badia.org/en/leisure-activities/climbing-and-mountaineering/brigata-tridentina-route/). +The booklet I am following describes it as "[...] reserved for +well-equipped experts. Don't do it with heavy backpacks; don't do it if +the weather is not good." We get at 0 out 3, the thought of taking the +[via ferrata](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata) does not not +even cross our minds. + +So trail 666 it is. This trail is also known as *Setus trail*, or somewhat +improperly *Setus via ferrata*. It is extremely steep and it is more a +climb than a walk, but it is not a via ferrata. Most maps describe it +as *sentiero attrezzato* (equipped trail), as it does have some fixed +steel rope and handles where the climber can hang a safety rope. + +We have some simple ropes equipped with a +[Carabiner](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carabiner), and we decide to +use them. In the following days we would talk with other people who +took the same route, and some of them would claim that a rope is not +necessary on that trail. I don't care, I was relieved to have my trusty +rope, especially considering the bad weather and how tired I was after +more than 8 hours of hiking (plus the 9 hours of the previous day). And +a safety rope is certainly of no use if kept in the backpack. + +![Trail 666](../img/21-1654-trail666.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{Trail 666 is really steep.}}}}}) + +Overall, the steel rope and the handles are of great help, and although +a couple of times I was unsure where to put my feet and risked slipping, +I would not consider this trail dangerous, if one is properly equipped. + +The reason I found this trail hard was its *length*. I seriously had +some difficulties caused by how tired and sore my muscles were, after +two full days of hike. Sometimes I could not complete a step or a arm +movement on the first try because I just did not have the enough strength +to push or pull up. And it just kept going! + +But at 17:30, exhausted but satisfied, we finally reach the top of +this climb. The Pisciadù hut (2587m) is just around the corner. + +![My dad at the end of trail 666](../img/21-1734-pisciadu.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{My dad at the end of trail 666.}}}}}) + +We, our clothes and our boots are still wet from all the rain we caught +throught the day. Let's hope everything dries up during the night. + +m4_navtable(← Day 1,../day1,Alta Via 2,../,Day 3 →,../day3) diff --git a/src/av2/day3/da3.m4 b/src/av2/day3/da3.m4 deleted file mode 100644 index b031a04..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day3/da3.m4 +++ /dev/null @@ -1,179 +0,0 @@ -m4_navtable(← Day 2,../day2,Alta Via 2,../,Day 4 →,../day4) - -# Day 3 - A knee-breaking descent - -m4_caption({{{{{August 22, 2025}}}}}) - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day3.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/alta-badia/-2025-alta-via-2-day-3/325541657/?share=%7E3zdmpbrn%244ossqbcq)* - -## The lunar path to Rifugio Boè - -Our clothes are still wet by the time we wake up. The summer nights -in the Alps are just too humid. But at least we can finally see some -sun. The weather is going to be much better for the next few days. - -![View from the Pisciadù hut](../img/22-0702-pisciadu.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{A beatiful view from the Pisciadù hut at dawn.}}}}}) - -The beds in the hut were comfortable and we slept well. After a comical -incident with my dad's boots - he put on someone else's pair, not knowing -that I had brought his back into our room, and spent a good 15 minutes -searching for them - we are ready to leave the hut at 8:20. - -![The Pisciadù the lake and Piz Pisciadù](../img/22-0756-pisciadu-lake.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{The Pisciadù lake and Piz Pisciadù (peak Pisciadù).}}}}}) - -The days starts with a short but somewhat steep section of the trail. -There are some steel ropes and we use our simple harness once again, -although this time we felt we could have done without. - -At 9:45 we reach what is likely the highest point of our route, -an anonymous plateau at 2960 meters on sea level. There are higher -points on some variations of the route, for example *Punta Penia* in the -[Marmolada](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmolada) massif, but we are -going to take a lower route, which is the more classical one according -to my guide book. - -At this point, we are completely immersed in a sea of fog. It is quite -cold, probably only a couple of degrees above 0°C, and there is some -unpleasantly cold breeze. - -![My dad resting on a rock](../img/22-0946-fog.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{My dad resting on a rock, trying to keep warm.}}}}}) - -The fog comes and goes, letting us see the beautiful panorama for -a few brief moments. - -![Panorama](../img/22-1006-panorama.jpg) - -As we walk down from the plateau, my left knee starts hurting. It is -not unbearable, and it only hurts when I walk downhill. But it does -not bode well for the rest of the day: our next stop is 900m below us, -so we are going to walk downhill for most of the day. - -At 10:30 we are on top of the *Antersass* (2906m), a minor peak next to -the more prominent [Piz Boè](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piz_Bo%C3%A8) -(3152m). We could have walked arount the Antersass, but the trail to -climb up to the top and then down is actually easier than the one that -goes around it. Going to the top of Piz Boè would have been an -interesting detour, but not quite feasible for our 9-day plan. - -We reach [Rifugio Boè](https://www.rifugioboe.it), a recently renovated -hut at 2873m, before 11:00. - -![Piz Boè](../img/22-1145-piz-boe.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -A view of Piz Boè (peak Boè) from Rifugio Boè (Boè hut). The hut -on the top of Piz Boè is, perhaps confusingly, called -Capanna Piz Fassa. -}}}}}) - -We have now left Sout Tyrol. The rest of the Alta Via 2 route -roughly follows the border between the provinces of Trento and -Belluno. - -We leave the hut at 11:20. The fog has returned, but it is not as -cold as before. - -The trail to *Foržela Pordoi* (2848m) is mostly flat, and very crowded, -because of a cable car that makes it accessible even to families with -kids. I am not sure I like this kind of over-turism in in places that -would otherwise be hard to reach. - -## A painful descent - -As we reach the foržela, the view opens up on a more diverse landscape -of grass, rock and forests. After a very short break, we start walking -down to the Pordoi Pass. - -The descent is on a long and steep [scree](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scree). -I have never liked walking down this kind of trail, but now that my knee -is screaming for mercy I am really hating it. I would have rather walked it -up twice than down once. - -![The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass](../img/22-1236-pordoi-descent.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass.}}}}}) - -We reach the [Pordoi Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pordoi_Pass) -at 13:30. I need a long break before continuining, so we decide to -lay down next to a tiny church just after the pass. -Luckily the weather is nice - or not terrible, at least - -and we can enjoy a nice view of the surroundings. - -![View from the Pordoi Pass](../img/22-1358-pordoi-pass.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{The mountains surrounding the Pordoi Pass.}}}}}) - -![View towards Canazei](../img/22-1431-canazei.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{The view in the direction of -Cianacei.}}}}}) - -## Her majesty, the Marmolada - -At 14:10, after about 40 minutes of relax, we are ready to get up. - -The walk up an easy trail among ski paths. Here too there are plenty of -turists, and I can't blame them for choosing to walk in such a beautiful -place. This is a very common touristic destination both in the Summer -and in the Winter. - -We walk past a strange place called -[Rifugio Fredarola](https://www.fredarola.it/) (2370m), which looks -more like a night club you could find the center of Milan rather than -a mountain hut. They are even playing some electronic lounge music. -It's hard to describe, but it feels oddly out of place here. But for -people coming from a big city this is just what they expect to find here; -I guess it is a matter of points of view. - -We continue on a wide, mostly flat trail. For now my knee is is doing -fine, but I am a bit scared for the descent that awaits us later today. -And finally we have a good view on the Marmolada, the Queen of the -Dolomites. - -![Me in front of the Marmolada](../img/22-1510-marmolada.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -The Marmolada, the highest mountain in the Dolomites, and its glacier. -At the feet of the massif you can see the -Fedaia lake, around which -there are a couple of huts, including the one where we are staying tonight. -In the distance you can see the -Pelmo and the -Civetta. -}}}}}) - -We stop at [Rifugio Viel Dal Pan](https://www.rifugiovieldalpan.com/) -(2432m) for a short break at 15:30. From there, the steep descent towards -the Fedaia Pass (2054m) begins. My knee forces me to walk slowly, so by -the time we reach the pass it is already 17:30. - -The day is almost concluded, but we have to walk to to opposite side -of the lake to [Rifugio Fedaia](https://www.rifugiofedaia.com/). The -closer [Rifugio Castiglioni](https://www.rifugiomarmolada.it/), where -we stop for a beer, was fully booked when we planned our trip. - -![Fedaia lake](../img/22-1730-fedaia.jpg) - -We walk fast on the old road next to the lake, chatting with a local -resident who helps us keep up the pace. We arrive at our hotel at 18:05, -after almost 10 hours of hike (including breaks), and we are very happy -to find a comfortable room with private bathroom waiting for us. - -This day was longer than we planned, partly because of my knee. -But the scenery was beautiful. - -m4_navtable(← Day 2,../day2,Alta Via 2,../,Day 4 →,../day4) diff --git a/src/av2/day3/day3.m4 b/src/av2/day3/day3.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b031a04 --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day3/day3.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,179 @@ +m4_navtable(← Day 2,../day2,Alta Via 2,../,Day 4 →,../day4) + +# Day 3 - A knee-breaking descent + +m4_caption({{{{{August 22, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day3.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/alta-badia/-2025-alta-via-2-day-3/325541657/?share=%7E3zdmpbrn%244ossqbcq)* + +## The lunar path to Rifugio Boè + +Our clothes are still wet by the time we wake up. The summer nights +in the Alps are just too humid. But at least we can finally see some +sun. The weather is going to be much better for the next few days. + +![View from the Pisciadù hut](../img/22-0702-pisciadu.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{A beatiful view from the Pisciadù hut at dawn.}}}}}) + +The beds in the hut were comfortable and we slept well. After a comical +incident with my dad's boots - he put on someone else's pair, not knowing +that I had brought his back into our room, and spent a good 15 minutes +searching for them - we are ready to leave the hut at 8:20. + +![The Pisciadù the lake and Piz Pisciadù](../img/22-0756-pisciadu-lake.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{The Pisciadù lake and Piz Pisciadù (peak Pisciadù).}}}}}) + +The days starts with a short but somewhat steep section of the trail. +There are some steel ropes and we use our simple harness once again, +although this time we felt we could have done without. + +At 9:45 we reach what is likely the highest point of our route, +an anonymous plateau at 2960 meters on sea level. There are higher +points on some variations of the route, for example *Punta Penia* in the +[Marmolada](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marmolada) massif, but we are +going to take a lower route, which is the more classical one according +to my guide book. + +At this point, we are completely immersed in a sea of fog. It is quite +cold, probably only a couple of degrees above 0°C, and there is some +unpleasantly cold breeze. + +![My dad resting on a rock](../img/22-0946-fog.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{My dad resting on a rock, trying to keep warm.}}}}}) + +The fog comes and goes, letting us see the beautiful panorama for +a few brief moments. + +![Panorama](../img/22-1006-panorama.jpg) + +As we walk down from the plateau, my left knee starts hurting. It is +not unbearable, and it only hurts when I walk downhill. But it does +not bode well for the rest of the day: our next stop is 900m below us, +so we are going to walk downhill for most of the day. + +At 10:30 we are on top of the *Antersass* (2906m), a minor peak next to +the more prominent [Piz Boè](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piz_Bo%C3%A8) +(3152m). We could have walked arount the Antersass, but the trail to +climb up to the top and then down is actually easier than the one that +goes around it. Going to the top of Piz Boè would have been an +interesting detour, but not quite feasible for our 9-day plan. + +We reach [Rifugio Boè](https://www.rifugioboe.it), a recently renovated +hut at 2873m, before 11:00. + +![Piz Boè](../img/22-1145-piz-boe.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +A view of Piz Boè (peak Boè) from Rifugio Boè (Boè hut). The hut +on the top of Piz Boè is, perhaps confusingly, called +Capanna Piz Fassa. +}}}}}) + +We have now left Sout Tyrol. The rest of the Alta Via 2 route +roughly follows the border between the provinces of Trento and +Belluno. + +We leave the hut at 11:20. The fog has returned, but it is not as +cold as before. + +The trail to *Foržela Pordoi* (2848m) is mostly flat, and very crowded, +because of a cable car that makes it accessible even to families with +kids. I am not sure I like this kind of over-turism in in places that +would otherwise be hard to reach. + +## A painful descent + +As we reach the foržela, the view opens up on a more diverse landscape +of grass, rock and forests. After a very short break, we start walking +down to the Pordoi Pass. + +The descent is on a long and steep [scree](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scree). +I have never liked walking down this kind of trail, but now that my knee +is screaming for mercy I am really hating it. I would have rather walked it +up twice than down once. + +![The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass](../img/22-1236-pordoi-descent.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{The steep descent to the Pordoi Pass.}}}}}) + +We reach the [Pordoi Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pordoi_Pass) +at 13:30. I need a long break before continuining, so we decide to +lay down next to a tiny church just after the pass. +Luckily the weather is nice - or not terrible, at least - +and we can enjoy a nice view of the surroundings. + +![View from the Pordoi Pass](../img/22-1358-pordoi-pass.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{The mountains surrounding the Pordoi Pass.}}}}}) + +![View towards Canazei](../img/22-1431-canazei.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{The view in the direction of +Cianacei.}}}}}) + +## Her majesty, the Marmolada + +At 14:10, after about 40 minutes of relax, we are ready to get up. + +The walk up an easy trail among ski paths. Here too there are plenty of +turists, and I can't blame them for choosing to walk in such a beautiful +place. This is a very common touristic destination both in the Summer +and in the Winter. + +We walk past a strange place called +[Rifugio Fredarola](https://www.fredarola.it/) (2370m), which looks +more like a night club you could find the center of Milan rather than +a mountain hut. They are even playing some electronic lounge music. +It's hard to describe, but it feels oddly out of place here. But for +people coming from a big city this is just what they expect to find here; +I guess it is a matter of points of view. + +We continue on a wide, mostly flat trail. For now my knee is is doing +fine, but I am a bit scared for the descent that awaits us later today. +And finally we have a good view on the Marmolada, the Queen of the +Dolomites. + +![Me in front of the Marmolada](../img/22-1510-marmolada.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The Marmolada, the highest mountain in the Dolomites, and its glacier. +At the feet of the massif you can see the +Fedaia lake, around which +there are a couple of huts, including the one where we are staying tonight. +In the distance you can see the +Pelmo and the +Civetta. +}}}}}) + +We stop at [Rifugio Viel Dal Pan](https://www.rifugiovieldalpan.com/) +(2432m) for a short break at 15:30. From there, the steep descent towards +the Fedaia Pass (2054m) begins. My knee forces me to walk slowly, so by +the time we reach the pass it is already 17:30. + +The day is almost concluded, but we have to walk to to opposite side +of the lake to [Rifugio Fedaia](https://www.rifugiofedaia.com/). The +closer [Rifugio Castiglioni](https://www.rifugiomarmolada.it/), where +we stop for a beer, was fully booked when we planned our trip. + +![Fedaia lake](../img/22-1730-fedaia.jpg) + +We walk fast on the old road next to the lake, chatting with a local +resident who helps us keep up the pace. We arrive at our hotel at 18:05, +after almost 10 hours of hike (including breaks), and we are very happy +to find a comfortable room with private bathroom waiting for us. + +This day was longer than we planned, partly because of my knee. +But the scenery was beautiful. + +m4_navtable(← Day 2,../day2,Alta Via 2,../,Day 4 →,../day4) diff --git a/src/av2/day4/da4.m4 b/src/av2/day4/da4.m4 deleted file mode 100644 index 5d82a3e..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day4/da4.m4 +++ /dev/null @@ -1,118 +0,0 @@ -m4_navtable(← Day 3,../day3,Alta Via 2,../,Day 5 →,../day5) - -# Day 4 - The forest and the pastures - -m4_caption({{{{{August 23, 2025}}}}}) - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day4.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-4/325541990/?share=%7E3zdmunnm%244ossqbcs)* - -## To Malga Ciapèla and Forca Rossa - -Our fourth day starts at 8:20, with a steep descent on a ski path. -My knee stil hurts, and this points I am afraid I may have to -deal with it for the rest of trip. - -At 9:30 we pass Malga Ciapela (1450 meters on sea level) and we start -walking up again. Soon we find an enigmatic sign which is apparently -trying to communicate that going left or right leads to the same -places. We spend like 5 minutes figuring this out, and we choose to -go left. - -The path is not steep and walking in the forest is enojyable. Since we -are at a lower altitude than we have been for most of the other days, -it is also much warmer than, say, yesterday morning. - -![A view from the trail in the forest](../img/23-1115-view.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -A view from the forest, on the way up from Malga Ciapèla to Forca Rossa. -}}}}}) - -The forest soon leaves space to grassy slopes and naked rock. The way -up is still pleasant, and we have met almost no other hiker so far - -in stark contrast with the previous day. - -![Grassy slops up to Forca Rossa](../img/23-1220-forca-rossa.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -The lower clay-red peak on the center-left of the picture is Forca Rossa, -where we are headed. "Rossa" in Italian means "red" - it's nice when things -are what their name says they are, isn't it? -}}}}}) - -We arrive at *Forca Rossa* (2500m) at 13:05. Only in the last few minutes -my knee gave me some problems, but it is not so bad that it makes me -want to stop. - -Here at the top of this trail there are all the hikers that we did not -meet on the way up; they probably came from the other side. There must -be some kind of force field blocking tourists from entering the province -of Belluno. - -![View from Forca Rossa to the Belluno side](../img/23-1325-forca-rossa-bl.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{View from Forca Rossa to the Belluno side.}}}}}) - -![My dad and I chilling](../img/23-1333-chilling.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{My dad and I chilling - quite literally, because of the wind.}}}}}) - -![View from Forca Rossa to the Trentino side](../img/23-1338-forca-rossa-tn.jpg) - -m4_caption(View from Forca Rossa to the Trentino side.) - -## Walking down green pastures - -There is a great view on both sides of this pass, but the wind is cold -and strong and we are not keen on staying long. After eating a couple -of protein bars and taking many pictures, we start walking down towards -Fuciade at 13:40. - -![The path to Fuciade](../img/23-1420-pastures.jpg) - -m4_caption(Walking down to Fuciade.) - -The way down is quite relaxing. We walk among green pastures, where -cows and horses grazed freely. That is, until they are less romantically -slaughtered to make [Bresaola](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bresaola). -But until then they can enjoy the green grass. - -At 15:00 we reach Fuciade (1982m), a location where many families with -kids were relaxing after a meal at [the hut](https://www.fuciade.it/en/). -If one wants a more quiet place, a short walk up the trail that we were -descending quickly leads away from the crowd. This place gave a sense -of tranquillity. - -![Me relaxing in Fuciade](../img/23-1512-fuciade.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{Me relaxing in Fuciade while I enjoy a glass of -radler -- don't be fooled by the Coca-Cola can.}}}}}) - -After a short short break, we move to -[Rifugio Flora Alpina](https://floralpina.it) (1800m), that we reach -shortly at around 16:00. The place is surrounded by the forest, -and the only peaks that are not hidden by trees are the -[Mulaz](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mulaz) and the -[Focobón group](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruppo_del_Focobon). - -![The Mulaz and the Focobon group](../img/23-1818-focobon.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -A spectacular view of the Mulaz and the Focobón group. As the light -changed and the clouds moved, the colors changed as well. I spent quite -some time just sitting outside the hut, admiring these peaks. -}}}}}) - -Now, for the first time since we started our journey, we some time -to relax before dinner. We enjoy a sauna and a hot tub. - -m4_navtable(← Day 3,../day3,Alta Via 2,../,Day 5 →,../day5) diff --git a/src/av2/day4/day4.m4 b/src/av2/day4/day4.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5d82a3e --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day4/day4.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,118 @@ +m4_navtable(← Day 3,../day3,Alta Via 2,../,Day 5 →,../day5) + +# Day 4 - The forest and the pastures + +m4_caption({{{{{August 23, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day4.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-4/325541990/?share=%7E3zdmunnm%244ossqbcs)* + +## To Malga Ciapèla and Forca Rossa + +Our fourth day starts at 8:20, with a steep descent on a ski path. +My knee stil hurts, and this points I am afraid I may have to +deal with it for the rest of trip. + +At 9:30 we pass Malga Ciapela (1450 meters on sea level) and we start +walking up again. Soon we find an enigmatic sign which is apparently +trying to communicate that going left or right leads to the same +places. We spend like 5 minutes figuring this out, and we choose to +go left. + +The path is not steep and walking in the forest is enojyable. Since we +are at a lower altitude than we have been for most of the other days, +it is also much warmer than, say, yesterday morning. + +![A view from the trail in the forest](../img/23-1115-view.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +A view from the forest, on the way up from Malga Ciapèla to Forca Rossa. +}}}}}) + +The forest soon leaves space to grassy slopes and naked rock. The way +up is still pleasant, and we have met almost no other hiker so far - +in stark contrast with the previous day. + +![Grassy slops up to Forca Rossa](../img/23-1220-forca-rossa.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The lower clay-red peak on the center-left of the picture is Forca Rossa, +where we are headed. "Rossa" in Italian means "red" - it's nice when things +are what their name says they are, isn't it? +}}}}}) + +We arrive at *Forca Rossa* (2500m) at 13:05. Only in the last few minutes +my knee gave me some problems, but it is not so bad that it makes me +want to stop. + +Here at the top of this trail there are all the hikers that we did not +meet on the way up; they probably came from the other side. There must +be some kind of force field blocking tourists from entering the province +of Belluno. + +![View from Forca Rossa to the Belluno side](../img/23-1325-forca-rossa-bl.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{View from Forca Rossa to the Belluno side.}}}}}) + +![My dad and I chilling](../img/23-1333-chilling.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{My dad and I chilling - quite literally, because of the wind.}}}}}) + +![View from Forca Rossa to the Trentino side](../img/23-1338-forca-rossa-tn.jpg) + +m4_caption(View from Forca Rossa to the Trentino side.) + +## Walking down green pastures + +There is a great view on both sides of this pass, but the wind is cold +and strong and we are not keen on staying long. After eating a couple +of protein bars and taking many pictures, we start walking down towards +Fuciade at 13:40. + +![The path to Fuciade](../img/23-1420-pastures.jpg) + +m4_caption(Walking down to Fuciade.) + +The way down is quite relaxing. We walk among green pastures, where +cows and horses grazed freely. That is, until they are less romantically +slaughtered to make [Bresaola](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bresaola). +But until then they can enjoy the green grass. + +At 15:00 we reach Fuciade (1982m), a location where many families with +kids were relaxing after a meal at [the hut](https://www.fuciade.it/en/). +If one wants a more quiet place, a short walk up the trail that we were +descending quickly leads away from the crowd. This place gave a sense +of tranquillity. + +![Me relaxing in Fuciade](../img/23-1512-fuciade.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{Me relaxing in Fuciade while I enjoy a glass of +radler +- don't be fooled by the Coca-Cola can.}}}}}) + +After a short short break, we move to +[Rifugio Flora Alpina](https://floralpina.it) (1800m), that we reach +shortly at around 16:00. The place is surrounded by the forest, +and the only peaks that are not hidden by trees are the +[Mulaz](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mulaz) and the +[Focobón group](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruppo_del_Focobon). + +![The Mulaz and the Focobon group](../img/23-1818-focobon.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +A spectacular view of the Mulaz and the Focobón group. As the light +changed and the clouds moved, the colors changed as well. I spent quite +some time just sitting outside the hut, admiring these peaks. +}}}}}) + +Now, for the first time since we started our journey, we some time +to relax before dinner. We enjoy a sauna and a hot tub. + +m4_navtable(← Day 3,../day3,Alta Via 2,../,Day 5 →,../day5) diff --git a/src/av2/day5/da5.m4 b/src/av2/day5/da5.m4 deleted file mode 100644 index 97484fb..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day5/da5.m4 +++ /dev/null @@ -1,141 +0,0 @@ -m4_navtable(← Day 4,../day4,Alta Via 2,../,Day 6 →,../day6) - -# Day 5 - Entering the Pala group - -m4_caption({{{{{August 24, 2025}}}}}) - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day5.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-5/325542248/?share=%7E3zdmwhgp%244ossqbdb)* - -## Back on track - -![The Focobon group at dawn](../img/24-0648-focobon.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -Forgive me if this photo is the same at the last one of the previous day, -but it is one of my favorite. It is also quite fascinating how the light -at dawn mixes up all the colors compared to previous day's picture. -}}}}}) - -After a long sleep, we are ready to leave Flora Alpina at 8:20. Our -first checkpoint is the -[San Pellegrino Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Pellegrino_Pass), -(1918 meters on sea level) which is unfortunately a bit farther away than -it would have been if we slept in Fuciade. - -It takes us about one hour to reach the Pass. On the way we saw a cow -breastfeeding her calf, which was cute. We cross the main road on the pass, -and from here we have to walk up on grassy slopes and ski paths. The -signs point to a path that is not the one we planned, but the two tracks -join shortly afterwards. The ski paths are extremely steep, but wide, -so we can easily zig-zag all the way up. - -At 10:30 we reach the *Pale di Gargol* (2218m), a plan that I am not sure -why deserves a name. Perhaps the name refers to the whole area which I -guess could be described as a rocky meadow. - -![The rocky meadow](../img/24-1027-pale-di-gargol.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -The Pale di Gargol. The term "pala" means "shovel" in Italian, -but according to the - -Italian Wikipedia page about the -Pale di San Martino -mountains, in the local language it once denoted a grassy slope at the -feet of a mountain range. -}}}}}) - -Once again, the landscape has changed to show us something completely -different from that we have seen in this trip so far. The continuous -shift from rocks, to forest, to grass, to yet other types of rock and -any combination of those features is in my opinion one of the most -fascinating aspects of Alta Via 2. - -![Walking down to Passo Valles](../img/24-1129-panorama.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{Walking down to Passo Valles. -In the background, the Pale di San Martino.}}}}}) - -The trail continues almost flat in this unusual scenery until we -descend to [Passo Valles](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passo_Valles) (2032m) -at around 11:50. We are now entering the fascinating section of -the *Pale di San Martino*, also known in English as the -[Pala group](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pala_group), of.which -the Mulaz and the Focobon group are the northernmost peaks. - -But first we need a break. We stop at a bar on the pass for a coffee -and a slice of strüdel. - -## Veneggia, Venegiotta and Pass dei Fochet - -We leave the bar at 12:20, and in half an hour we reach Forcella -Veneggia (2217m). The view opens up to the wild valley in the south. - -![The view from Forcella Veneggia](../img/24-1252-forcella-veneggia.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{The view from Forcella Veneggia.}}}}}) - -So far, the day has not been particularly challenging. Later on -we'll have to pass some difficult sections, but for now we continue -on some easy, if tight, trails. - -Despite the beauty of the place, we don't meet many other hikers. -In fact, I think we saw more marmots than people in this part of -the route. - -![More mountains](../img/24-1400-venegiotta.jpg) - -At around 14:00 we reach *Passo Venegiotta* (2300m), and about 30 minutes -later *Passo dei Fochet* (2291m). The weather has been good today so far, -but here a strong cold wind starts blowing, and we can feel a few drops -of rain. - -## Through the rocks, to Rifugio Mulaz - -The landscape changes once again. We are now walking on rocks and gravel. - -![Another scree](../img/24-1447-rocks-to-mulaz.jpg) - -We walk down a scree to around 2175m, before starting to climb up again. -It's cold and cloudy, and this part of the trail is a fair bit more -difficult than the previous. Nothing particularly hard or dangerous, -but we have to pay a bit more attention where we put our feet. - -The trail abruptly becomes extremely steep, and very demanding on my -muscles, which so far had been enjoying a more relaxing day. - -![The climb to Rifugio Mulaz](../img/24-1552-climb-to-mulaz.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -Some steel ropes help make the climb to Rifugio Mulaz less dangerous. -}}}}}) - -We reach Rifugio Mulaz (2570m) at 16:40, after a little more than -8 hours from when we left Flora Alpina. Somehow, both these places -are in the territory of [Falcade](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falcade). - -![Reaching Rifugio Mulaz](../img/24-1638-mulaz.jpg) - -m4_caption(Reaching Rifugio Mulaz) - -From this hut, the only landscape you can see, in any direction, is -naked rock. There is a tiny window from where you can see a valley, -but the sight is cut out and the only visible thing is more rocks. -Definitely fascinating, although personally prefer more varied landscapes. - -I'll add a picture on the next day's page, the early morning light -was much better. - -Oh and by the way, up here every resource is very scarce. There is -no drinkable tap water, and showers cost 8€ for 5 minutes. But I -really need one today. - -m4_navtable(← Day 4,../day4,Alta Via 2,../,Day 6 →,../day6) diff --git a/src/av2/day5/day5.m4 b/src/av2/day5/day5.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..97484fb --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day5/day5.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,141 @@ +m4_navtable(← Day 4,../day4,Alta Via 2,../,Day 6 →,../day6) + +# Day 5 - Entering the Pala group + +m4_caption({{{{{August 24, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day5.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-5/325542248/?share=%7E3zdmwhgp%244ossqbdb)* + +## Back on track + +![The Focobon group at dawn](../img/24-0648-focobon.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +Forgive me if this photo is the same at the last one of the previous day, +but it is one of my favorite. It is also quite fascinating how the light +at dawn mixes up all the colors compared to previous day's picture. +}}}}}) + +After a long sleep, we are ready to leave Flora Alpina at 8:20. Our +first checkpoint is the +[San Pellegrino Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Pellegrino_Pass), +(1918 meters on sea level) which is unfortunately a bit farther away than +it would have been if we slept in Fuciade. + +It takes us about one hour to reach the Pass. On the way we saw a cow +breastfeeding her calf, which was cute. We cross the main road on the pass, +and from here we have to walk up on grassy slopes and ski paths. The +signs point to a path that is not the one we planned, but the two tracks +join shortly afterwards. The ski paths are extremely steep, but wide, +so we can easily zig-zag all the way up. + +At 10:30 we reach the *Pale di Gargol* (2218m), a plan that I am not sure +why deserves a name. Perhaps the name refers to the whole area which I +guess could be described as a rocky meadow. + +![The rocky meadow](../img/24-1027-pale-di-gargol.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The Pale di Gargol. The term "pala" means "shovel" in Italian, +but according to the + +Italian Wikipedia page about the +Pale di San Martino +mountains, in the local language it once denoted a grassy slope at the +feet of a mountain range. +}}}}}) + +Once again, the landscape has changed to show us something completely +different from that we have seen in this trip so far. The continuous +shift from rocks, to forest, to grass, to yet other types of rock and +any combination of those features is in my opinion one of the most +fascinating aspects of Alta Via 2. + +![Walking down to Passo Valles](../img/24-1129-panorama.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{Walking down to Passo Valles. +In the background, the Pale di San Martino.}}}}}) + +The trail continues almost flat in this unusual scenery until we +descend to [Passo Valles](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passo_Valles) (2032m) +at around 11:50. We are now entering the fascinating section of +the *Pale di San Martino*, also known in English as the +[Pala group](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pala_group), of.which +the Mulaz and the Focobon group are the northernmost peaks. + +But first we need a break. We stop at a bar on the pass for a coffee +and a slice of strüdel. + +## Veneggia, Venegiotta and Pass dei Fochet + +We leave the bar at 12:20, and in half an hour we reach Forcella +Veneggia (2217m). The view opens up to the wild valley in the south. + +![The view from Forcella Veneggia](../img/24-1252-forcella-veneggia.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{The view from Forcella Veneggia.}}}}}) + +So far, the day has not been particularly challenging. Later on +we'll have to pass some difficult sections, but for now we continue +on some easy, if tight, trails. + +Despite the beauty of the place, we don't meet many other hikers. +In fact, I think we saw more marmots than people in this part of +the route. + +![More mountains](../img/24-1400-venegiotta.jpg) + +At around 14:00 we reach *Passo Venegiotta* (2300m), and about 30 minutes +later *Passo dei Fochet* (2291m). The weather has been good today so far, +but here a strong cold wind starts blowing, and we can feel a few drops +of rain. + +## Through the rocks, to Rifugio Mulaz + +The landscape changes once again. We are now walking on rocks and gravel. + +![Another scree](../img/24-1447-rocks-to-mulaz.jpg) + +We walk down a scree to around 2175m, before starting to climb up again. +It's cold and cloudy, and this part of the trail is a fair bit more +difficult than the previous. Nothing particularly hard or dangerous, +but we have to pay a bit more attention where we put our feet. + +The trail abruptly becomes extremely steep, and very demanding on my +muscles, which so far had been enjoying a more relaxing day. + +![The climb to Rifugio Mulaz](../img/24-1552-climb-to-mulaz.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +Some steel ropes help make the climb to Rifugio Mulaz less dangerous. +}}}}}) + +We reach Rifugio Mulaz (2570m) at 16:40, after a little more than +8 hours from when we left Flora Alpina. Somehow, both these places +are in the territory of [Falcade](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falcade). + +![Reaching Rifugio Mulaz](../img/24-1638-mulaz.jpg) + +m4_caption(Reaching Rifugio Mulaz) + +From this hut, the only landscape you can see, in any direction, is +naked rock. There is a tiny window from where you can see a valley, +but the sight is cut out and the only visible thing is more rocks. +Definitely fascinating, although personally prefer more varied landscapes. + +I'll add a picture on the next day's page, the early morning light +was much better. + +Oh and by the way, up here every resource is very scarce. There is +no drinkable tap water, and showers cost 8€ for 5 minutes. But I +really need one today. + +m4_navtable(← Day 4,../day4,Alta Via 2,../,Day 6 →,../day6) diff --git a/src/av2/day6/da6.m4 b/src/av2/day6/da6.m4 deleted file mode 100644 index 9ec5bc2..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day6/da6.m4 +++ /dev/null @@ -1,208 +0,0 @@ -m4_navtable(← Day 5,../day5,Alta Via 2,../,Day 7 →,../day7) - -# Day 6 - The Farangole trail - -m4_caption({{{{{August 25, 2025}}}}}) - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day6.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-6/325542632/?share=%7E3zdmb4fp%244ossqbdc)* - -## The starry night - -During the night I woke up and managed to catch a glimpse of a wonderful -starry night, the likes of which I have never seen before. - -If you live in a place with a lot of light pollution, like every medium -to large city nowadays, seeing *a few* stars may already be an unusual -experience. At the moment I live in a fairly small city, and we literally -never see stars over here. We are lucky if we see Venus once in a while. - -But I grew up in a small village in a sparsely populated area, I *was* -used to seeing skies full of stars at night. But this time, at 2500 -metres above sea level, in the middle of literally nowhere, the sky was -soething else. - -I did not manage to take a good picture, sorry. I did not feel like going -out in the freezing cold. - -## The Farangole pass - -At Rifugio Mulaz, the sun rises at 6:40 and sets at around 7:05. -In the morning. Luckily for you, I got up early enough to catch -the sunset. - -![The morning sunset](../img/25-0707-sunset.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -Rifugio Mulaz is closely surrounded by high mountains. This is the only -spot where you could see something in the distance. The sun rises from -the peaks on the left of this picture, only to hide away behind those -on the right shortly afterwards. -}}}}}) - -It's a beautiful day, if only a bit cold. This time we get up earlier than -usual and we are ready to leave at 7:15. The main challenge of the day -is going to be the *passo delle Farangole* (2932 meters on sea level), -a high mountain pass not far from the hut. Our guide book even suggests -a possible alternative route for less confident hikers, but we believed -it to be within our capabilities. - -After steep, but short, climb to *Forcella Margherita* (2655m) we reach a -section of the trail that would not be particularly challenging, it was -not for the fact that the track is not well marked. - -![The trail after Forcella Margherita](../img/25-0740-after-forcella-margherita.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -The trail after Forcella Margherita, right before the Farangole pass. -}}}}}) - -In fact, the traces of the hikers who missed the path are *more* visible -than the actual trail, likely because said hikers made them more clear -by backtracking their steps when they realized they were out of the -trail. We do the same a couple of times. - -We soon reach the start of the equipped trail that leads to the pass, -but I am not convinced and I decide to try climbing up the scree next -it. This was probably a mistake, so we soon turn left and attach our -trusty ropes to the steel supports. - -![Me, climbing up to the Farangole pass](../img/25-0830-up-to-farangole-pass.jpg) - -m4_caption(Climbing up to the Farangole pass.) - -The track is very steep, and at times -[exposed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_%28heights%29), but the -steel ropes and the other supporting material is in a good state. -Overall, this famous Farangole pass is easier than we expected. - -![My dad climbing down from the Farangole pass](../img/25-0851-down-from-farangole.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -And down we go. The steel ladder looks like it ends in the void, -but actually there is an extra steel beam protruding from the -rock, and after that there only a 60cm drop. -}}}}}) - -After clearing the pass at around 9:00, we feel satisfied and proud of -ourselves. My knee does not even hurt anymore. - -Little did we now that the truly difficult part is the Farangole *trail*, -which we'll have to go through later this morning. But for now, in our -blisfful ignorance, we enjoy the beautiful weather and we take plenty -of pictures as we walk down from the pass. - -![North view, towards the pass](../img/25-0910-blue-sky.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -The view North, towards the mountains we have just passed. -}}}}}) - -![A rocky plateau](../img/25-1009-rocky-plateau.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{An imposing rocky plateau on the South.}}}}}) - -![The view to the North-East](../img/25-1019-north-east.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{The view to the North-East.}}}}}) - -## The Farangole trail - -As the trail gets tight and very exposed, we realize that maybe -*this* is the section the guide book was warning us about. We -proceed carefully, attaching our home-made harness when a steel rope -is available. Unfortunately, most of the trail is on a narrow ledge -surrounded by grass and soft soil, where no piece of supporting material -can be fixed. At least it is not wet. - -![My dad walking on the Farangole trail](../img/25-1109-dad-farangole.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -My dad walking on a narrow section of the Farangole trail. -}}}}}) - -![Anoher hiker](../img/25-1141-hiker.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{Another hiker following us on the same trail.}}}}}) - -Since this trail is challenging and dangerous, we have to keep -constant focus on our steps and the way ahead of us. We have little -time to relax and enjoy the beautiful view, and we take much fewer -pictures than we did earlier. - -![View from the Farangole trail](../img/25-1158-view.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -The view from the last part of the Farangole trail, towards -the East. Soon we'll have to walk down to the dry bed of the -river at the bottom center of this picture. On the left, you -can see the tiny line that is the Farangle trail. -}}}}}) - -At 12:30 we reach the bottom of *Valgrande* (*Pian dei Cantoni*, 2310m). - -## To Rifugio Rosetta and beyond - -The way up to Rifugio Rosetta is steep, but short. The previous -part was not phisically demanding, but it was dangerous and -technically fairly challenging. I am relieved that now I can just -let my leg bring me up, and I reach the hut at 13:05. - -![Rifugio Rosetta](../img/25-1321-rosetta.jpg) - -m4_caption(Rifugio Rosetta) - -[Rifugio Rosetta](https://www.rifugiorosetta.it) (2581m) is easily -reachable with a cable car, and because of this it is very crowded, -similarly to the area around Piz Boè that we passed through on -[day 3](../day3). - -This is a good time for a break, so we decide to sit down, drink -a glass of [skiwasser](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skiwasser), and -eat another slice of strüdel. Yes, we ate a lot of those. The one -they serve in this hut is particularly good, with plenty of fresh -fruit and pine nuts. - -We get up and leave the hut at 14:05. The weather gets cold and foggy, -but luckily for us it won't last long. Our plan is to walk down until -*Col de le Fede* (2200m) and then up again to *Pass dei Ball* (2433m). - -The way down is slow and tedious, and my knee starts hurting again. - -![Down from Rifugio Rosetta](../img/25-1519-down-from-rosetta.jpg) - -m4_caption(Walking down from Rifugio Rosetta.) - -The way up to the pass is steep, and there is a long section equipped -with a steel rope. But the equipped part is actually very easy compared -to other similar trails that we have walked this morning and in the -previous days. - -![My dad walking on the equipped trail](../img/25-1606-rope.jpg) - -m4_caption(My dad walking on this equipped section.) - -After reaching Pass dei Ball, we walk down slowly to -[Rifugio Pradidali](https://www.rifugiopradidali.com/eng/Home.html) -(2278m), which we reach at 17:05. - -Later we would discover that there is an alternative route to -go from Rosetta to Pradidali, which starts by walking up to the -East and skips both the slow and tedious descent and the -more steep section before Pass dei Ball. This alternative path was -probably slightly easier, but it would not have saved us that much -time and effort. - -The Pradidali is a nice hut, but there is no phone signal nor WiFi. -The showers are still expensive, and when it is my turn the water boiler -has run out of gas, and I can either wait for it to be replaced or do a -freezing cold shower. I don't want to wait, so arctic shower here I come! - -m4_navtable(← Day 5,../day5,Alta Via 2,../,Day 7 →,../day7) diff --git a/src/av2/day6/day6.m4 b/src/av2/day6/day6.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ec5bc2 --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day6/day6.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,208 @@ +m4_navtable(← Day 5,../day5,Alta Via 2,../,Day 7 →,../day7) + +# Day 6 - The Farangole trail + +m4_caption({{{{{August 25, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day6.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-6/325542632/?share=%7E3zdmb4fp%244ossqbdc)* + +## The starry night + +During the night I woke up and managed to catch a glimpse of a wonderful +starry night, the likes of which I have never seen before. + +If you live in a place with a lot of light pollution, like every medium +to large city nowadays, seeing *a few* stars may already be an unusual +experience. At the moment I live in a fairly small city, and we literally +never see stars over here. We are lucky if we see Venus once in a while. + +But I grew up in a small village in a sparsely populated area, I *was* +used to seeing skies full of stars at night. But this time, at 2500 +metres above sea level, in the middle of literally nowhere, the sky was +soething else. + +I did not manage to take a good picture, sorry. I did not feel like going +out in the freezing cold. + +## The Farangole pass + +At Rifugio Mulaz, the sun rises at 6:40 and sets at around 7:05. +In the morning. Luckily for you, I got up early enough to catch +the sunset. + +![The morning sunset](../img/25-0707-sunset.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +Rifugio Mulaz is closely surrounded by high mountains. This is the only +spot where you could see something in the distance. The sun rises from +the peaks on the left of this picture, only to hide away behind those +on the right shortly afterwards. +}}}}}) + +It's a beautiful day, if only a bit cold. This time we get up earlier than +usual and we are ready to leave at 7:15. The main challenge of the day +is going to be the *passo delle Farangole* (2932 meters on sea level), +a high mountain pass not far from the hut. Our guide book even suggests +a possible alternative route for less confident hikers, but we believed +it to be within our capabilities. + +After steep, but short, climb to *Forcella Margherita* (2655m) we reach a +section of the trail that would not be particularly challenging, it was +not for the fact that the track is not well marked. + +![The trail after Forcella Margherita](../img/25-0740-after-forcella-margherita.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The trail after Forcella Margherita, right before the Farangole pass. +}}}}}) + +In fact, the traces of the hikers who missed the path are *more* visible +than the actual trail, likely because said hikers made them more clear +by backtracking their steps when they realized they were out of the +trail. We do the same a couple of times. + +We soon reach the start of the equipped trail that leads to the pass, +but I am not convinced and I decide to try climbing up the scree next +it. This was probably a mistake, so we soon turn left and attach our +trusty ropes to the steel supports. + +![Me, climbing up to the Farangole pass](../img/25-0830-up-to-farangole-pass.jpg) + +m4_caption(Climbing up to the Farangole pass.) + +The track is very steep, and at times +[exposed](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_%28heights%29), but the +steel ropes and the other supporting material is in a good state. +Overall, this famous Farangole pass is easier than we expected. + +![My dad climbing down from the Farangole pass](../img/25-0851-down-from-farangole.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +And down we go. The steel ladder looks like it ends in the void, +but actually there is an extra steel beam protruding from the +rock, and after that there only a 60cm drop. +}}}}}) + +After clearing the pass at around 9:00, we feel satisfied and proud of +ourselves. My knee does not even hurt anymore. + +Little did we now that the truly difficult part is the Farangole *trail*, +which we'll have to go through later this morning. But for now, in our +blisfful ignorance, we enjoy the beautiful weather and we take plenty +of pictures as we walk down from the pass. + +![North view, towards the pass](../img/25-0910-blue-sky.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The view North, towards the mountains we have just passed. +}}}}}) + +![A rocky plateau](../img/25-1009-rocky-plateau.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{An imposing rocky plateau on the South.}}}}}) + +![The view to the North-East](../img/25-1019-north-east.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{The view to the North-East.}}}}}) + +## The Farangole trail + +As the trail gets tight and very exposed, we realize that maybe +*this* is the section the guide book was warning us about. We +proceed carefully, attaching our home-made harness when a steel rope +is available. Unfortunately, most of the trail is on a narrow ledge +surrounded by grass and soft soil, where no piece of supporting material +can be fixed. At least it is not wet. + +![My dad walking on the Farangole trail](../img/25-1109-dad-farangole.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +My dad walking on a narrow section of the Farangole trail. +}}}}}) + +![Anoher hiker](../img/25-1141-hiker.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{Another hiker following us on the same trail.}}}}}) + +Since this trail is challenging and dangerous, we have to keep +constant focus on our steps and the way ahead of us. We have little +time to relax and enjoy the beautiful view, and we take much fewer +pictures than we did earlier. + +![View from the Farangole trail](../img/25-1158-view.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The view from the last part of the Farangole trail, towards +the East. Soon we'll have to walk down to the dry bed of the +river at the bottom center of this picture. On the left, you +can see the tiny line that is the Farangle trail. +}}}}}) + +At 12:30 we reach the bottom of *Valgrande* (*Pian dei Cantoni*, 2310m). + +## To Rifugio Rosetta and beyond + +The way up to Rifugio Rosetta is steep, but short. The previous +part was not phisically demanding, but it was dangerous and +technically fairly challenging. I am relieved that now I can just +let my leg bring me up, and I reach the hut at 13:05. + +![Rifugio Rosetta](../img/25-1321-rosetta.jpg) + +m4_caption(Rifugio Rosetta) + +[Rifugio Rosetta](https://www.rifugiorosetta.it) (2581m) is easily +reachable with a cable car, and because of this it is very crowded, +similarly to the area around Piz Boè that we passed through on +[day 3](../day3). + +This is a good time for a break, so we decide to sit down, drink +a glass of [skiwasser](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skiwasser), and +eat another slice of strüdel. Yes, we ate a lot of those. The one +they serve in this hut is particularly good, with plenty of fresh +fruit and pine nuts. + +We get up and leave the hut at 14:05. The weather gets cold and foggy, +but luckily for us it won't last long. Our plan is to walk down until +*Col de le Fede* (2200m) and then up again to *Pass dei Ball* (2433m). + +The way down is slow and tedious, and my knee starts hurting again. + +![Down from Rifugio Rosetta](../img/25-1519-down-from-rosetta.jpg) + +m4_caption(Walking down from Rifugio Rosetta.) + +The way up to the pass is steep, and there is a long section equipped +with a steel rope. But the equipped part is actually very easy compared +to other similar trails that we have walked this morning and in the +previous days. + +![My dad walking on the equipped trail](../img/25-1606-rope.jpg) + +m4_caption(My dad walking on this equipped section.) + +After reaching Pass dei Ball, we walk down slowly to +[Rifugio Pradidali](https://www.rifugiopradidali.com/eng/Home.html) +(2278m), which we reach at 17:05. + +Later we would discover that there is an alternative route to +go from Rosetta to Pradidali, which starts by walking up to the +East and skips both the slow and tedious descent and the +more steep section before Pass dei Ball. This alternative path was +probably slightly easier, but it would not have saved us that much +time and effort. + +The Pradidali is a nice hut, but there is no phone signal nor WiFi. +The showers are still expensive, and when it is my turn the water boiler +has run out of gas, and I can either wait for it to be replaced or do a +freezing cold shower. I don't want to wait, so arctic shower here I come! + +m4_navtable(← Day 5,../day5,Alta Via 2,../,Day 7 →,../day7) diff --git a/src/av2/day7/da7.m4 b/src/av2/day7/da7.m4 deleted file mode 100644 index 3bc0251..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day7/da7.m4 +++ /dev/null @@ -1,173 +0,0 @@ -m4_navtable(← Day 6,../day6,Alta Via 2,../,Day 8 →,../day8) - -# Day 7 - The longest day - -m4_caption({{{{{August 26, 2025}}}}}) - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day7.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/san-martino-di-castrozza-primiero-vanoi/-2025-alta-via-2-day-7/325542923/?share=%7E3zdmdrba%244ossqbdf)* - -## A relaxing stroll in Val Canali - -Last night we had to check the maps, because we were not sure which route -we would be going, according to our plan. We did not remember that the -guide book suggested two possible alternatives to reach the next hut, -Rifugio Treviso: a higher mountain trail, with some challenging sections, -and an easier one that starts by walking down the *Val Canali*, a valley -that leads out of the Pala group and into the *Vette Feltrine* mountain -range. Our plan was to follow the easier route, and we stick to it. - -We leave the Pradidali at 7:30. - -![Rifugio Pradidali](../img/26-0735-pradidali.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -Rifugio Pradidali and a mountain behind it, in a beautiful sunny morning. -Maybe I should have taken notes of the names of the peaks I photographed. -Oh well, too late now. -}}}}}) - -![Val Canali](../img/26-0801-val-canali.jpg) - -m4_caption(Val Canali.) - -The descent is quite diverse, alternating between rocks, gravel, grass -and forest. There are some steel ropes that seem oddly placed in a very -simple section, but they would probably be useful in a rainy day. - -![Walking down](../img/26-0814-walking-down.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -Walking down an easy trail, in a typical Dolomite landscape. -}}}}}) - -At 9:50 we reach the ruins of *malga Pradidali* (1428 meters on sea level). -So far it has been a nice sunny day, and the walk has been easy. But the -end of the day will be very different. - -![The ruins of malga Pradidali](../img/26-0954-malga-pradidali.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -The ruins of malga Pradidali. A "malga" is a building where people -temporarily lived in the Summer while their cows grazed the high mountain -pastures that surround it. Malga Antersasc, that we passed by in -day one, is another example. Many malgas are -still in use nowadays, and they often sell locally-produced dairy products, -but unfortunately for us we only found ruins in this trip. -}}}}}) - -The trail continues in the forest, and at 10:35 we pass by *malga -Canali* (1307m). This one *was* in use, and we could have stopped to -eat something if we wanted, but we did not. - -![The pastures behind malga Canali](../img/26-1040-from-malga-canali.jpg) - -m4_caption(The pastures behind malga Canali.) - -We now have to walk up to reach Rifugio Treviso (1631m). The trail in -the forest becomes steep, but it does not last long. We reach the hut -at 11:40, and it is time for a break. - -![From Rifugio Treviso](../img/26-1206-treviso.jpg) - -## The return of the clouds - -After taking a few pictures and a slice of a typical alpine dessert (I'll -let you guess which one), we are ready to start walking again at 12:30. - -Our next checkpoint is *forcella d'Oltro* (2094m). My knee has been -good so far, but I still try not to put too much weight on it. The road -up to the forcella is steep, and we are tired. We have done nothing but -walking steep trails for more than a week at this point. We walk slowly, -but steadily. - -![Forested mountains to the North-West](../img/26-1354-forested-slopes.jpg) - -m4_caption(The forested slopes on the North-West.) - -On our way up, we meet a couple walking down from the forcella. They -tell us that they could see nothing at all on the other side, because -of the fog and the clouds. We are not sure if we should take them -literally, because it is such a sunny day on this side, but indeed -when we reach the tight pass at 14:30 we can see it with out own eyes. - -![The fog oon the other side](../img/26-1432-fog.jpg) - -m4_caption(The fog on the other side of forcella d'Oltro.) - -![The sunny side where we came from](../img/26-1439-not-fog.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -The side where we came from, in contrast, is perfectly sunny. -}}}}}) - -We need another short break, but we don't want to stay here for -too long, because, as often happens in these tight high passes, -the wind is strong and chilling. - -We thought this would be the last place above 2000 meters of the whole -trip. Or at the very least for the day, considering that all that was -left was walking down to the -[Cereda Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cereda_Pass). -But we were not exactly right. - -## Down? Not so fast, cowboy - -The descent to the Cereda Pass starts very steep, and quickly loose -about 200 meters of altitude. But then the trail starts going up again, -and slowly but surely we walk up, and up, and up. The road is not steep, -but we are walking on a tight ledge on a grassy slope that requires us -to focus. - -![Me on the tight ledge](../img/26-1603-tight-ledge.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -Me on this tight path that, for whatever reason, is leading back -up instead of down to Pass Cereda. As you can see, I am not amused. -}}}}}) - -Only after we reach the altitude of 2150m do we start going down, -but this time very slowly. We cannot see very far due to the fog, -and in any case we would still be hyper-focused on where we step. -But at least there are some interesting rock formations close to -us that are worth admiring. - -![Some curious rock formations](../img/26-1619-rocks.jpg) - -m4_caption(Some interesting rock formations close to the trail.) - -![A tree growing on a rock](../img/26-1644-tree.jpg) - -m4_caption(A tree growing on top of a naked rock.) - -The trail gradually becomes less exposed, but more steep. My knee starts -hurting once again, but I am not surprised, considering how long we have -been walking since this morning. - -After what feels like an eternity of wandering through the fog, -we reach the hotel at the Cereda Pass (1361m) at 18:15. After -almost 11 hours of walk, my feet and my knees are begging for mercy. - -![Pastures around the Cereda Pass](../img/26-1758-cereda.jpg) - -m4_caption(The pastures around the Cereda Pass.) - -We have a private room at [Rifugio Cereda](https://www.rifugiocereda.com/en/), -where we can have a shower rest well. The food is also amazing: I have -what is one of the best plates of -[*käsespätzle*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K%C3%A4sesp%C3%A4tzle) -of my life. By the way, over here the spätzle are prepared with spinach -and they green not white; I think they do the same in Tyrol, but definitely -not in Germany. - -Unfortunately, the weather forecast for the next day are not as good -as our dinner. - -m4_navtable(← Day 6,../day6,Alta Via 2,../,Day 8 →,../day8) diff --git a/src/av2/day7/day7.m4 b/src/av2/day7/day7.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3bc0251 --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day7/day7.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,173 @@ +m4_navtable(← Day 6,../day6,Alta Via 2,../,Day 8 →,../day8) + +# Day 7 - The longest day + +m4_caption({{{{{August 26, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day7.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/san-martino-di-castrozza-primiero-vanoi/-2025-alta-via-2-day-7/325542923/?share=%7E3zdmdrba%244ossqbdf)* + +## A relaxing stroll in Val Canali + +Last night we had to check the maps, because we were not sure which route +we would be going, according to our plan. We did not remember that the +guide book suggested two possible alternatives to reach the next hut, +Rifugio Treviso: a higher mountain trail, with some challenging sections, +and an easier one that starts by walking down the *Val Canali*, a valley +that leads out of the Pala group and into the *Vette Feltrine* mountain +range. Our plan was to follow the easier route, and we stick to it. + +We leave the Pradidali at 7:30. + +![Rifugio Pradidali](../img/26-0735-pradidali.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +Rifugio Pradidali and a mountain behind it, in a beautiful sunny morning. +Maybe I should have taken notes of the names of the peaks I photographed. +Oh well, too late now. +}}}}}) + +![Val Canali](../img/26-0801-val-canali.jpg) + +m4_caption(Val Canali.) + +The descent is quite diverse, alternating between rocks, gravel, grass +and forest. There are some steel ropes that seem oddly placed in a very +simple section, but they would probably be useful in a rainy day. + +![Walking down](../img/26-0814-walking-down.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +Walking down an easy trail, in a typical Dolomite landscape. +}}}}}) + +At 9:50 we reach the ruins of *malga Pradidali* (1428 meters on sea level). +So far it has been a nice sunny day, and the walk has been easy. But the +end of the day will be very different. + +![The ruins of malga Pradidali](../img/26-0954-malga-pradidali.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The ruins of malga Pradidali. A "malga" is a building where people +temporarily lived in the Summer while their cows grazed the high mountain +pastures that surround it. Malga Antersasc, that we passed by in +day one, is another example. Many malgas are +still in use nowadays, and they often sell locally-produced dairy products, +but unfortunately for us we only found ruins in this trip. +}}}}}) + +The trail continues in the forest, and at 10:35 we pass by *malga +Canali* (1307m). This one *was* in use, and we could have stopped to +eat something if we wanted, but we did not. + +![The pastures behind malga Canali](../img/26-1040-from-malga-canali.jpg) + +m4_caption(The pastures behind malga Canali.) + +We now have to walk up to reach Rifugio Treviso (1631m). The trail in +the forest becomes steep, but it does not last long. We reach the hut +at 11:40, and it is time for a break. + +![From Rifugio Treviso](../img/26-1206-treviso.jpg) + +## The return of the clouds + +After taking a few pictures and a slice of a typical alpine dessert (I'll +let you guess which one), we are ready to start walking again at 12:30. + +Our next checkpoint is *forcella d'Oltro* (2094m). My knee has been +good so far, but I still try not to put too much weight on it. The road +up to the forcella is steep, and we are tired. We have done nothing but +walking steep trails for more than a week at this point. We walk slowly, +but steadily. + +![Forested mountains to the North-West](../img/26-1354-forested-slopes.jpg) + +m4_caption(The forested slopes on the North-West.) + +On our way up, we meet a couple walking down from the forcella. They +tell us that they could see nothing at all on the other side, because +of the fog and the clouds. We are not sure if we should take them +literally, because it is such a sunny day on this side, but indeed +when we reach the tight pass at 14:30 we can see it with out own eyes. + +![The fog oon the other side](../img/26-1432-fog.jpg) + +m4_caption(The fog on the other side of forcella d'Oltro.) + +![The sunny side where we came from](../img/26-1439-not-fog.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The side where we came from, in contrast, is perfectly sunny. +}}}}}) + +We need another short break, but we don't want to stay here for +too long, because, as often happens in these tight high passes, +the wind is strong and chilling. + +We thought this would be the last place above 2000 meters of the whole +trip. Or at the very least for the day, considering that all that was +left was walking down to the +[Cereda Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cereda_Pass). +But we were not exactly right. + +## Down? Not so fast, cowboy + +The descent to the Cereda Pass starts very steep, and quickly loose +about 200 meters of altitude. But then the trail starts going up again, +and slowly but surely we walk up, and up, and up. The road is not steep, +but we are walking on a tight ledge on a grassy slope that requires us +to focus. + +![Me on the tight ledge](../img/26-1603-tight-ledge.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +Me on this tight path that, for whatever reason, is leading back +up instead of down to Pass Cereda. As you can see, I am not amused. +}}}}}) + +Only after we reach the altitude of 2150m do we start going down, +but this time very slowly. We cannot see very far due to the fog, +and in any case we would still be hyper-focused on where we step. +But at least there are some interesting rock formations close to +us that are worth admiring. + +![Some curious rock formations](../img/26-1619-rocks.jpg) + +m4_caption(Some interesting rock formations close to the trail.) + +![A tree growing on a rock](../img/26-1644-tree.jpg) + +m4_caption(A tree growing on top of a naked rock.) + +The trail gradually becomes less exposed, but more steep. My knee starts +hurting once again, but I am not surprised, considering how long we have +been walking since this morning. + +After what feels like an eternity of wandering through the fog, +we reach the hotel at the Cereda Pass (1361m) at 18:15. After +almost 11 hours of walk, my feet and my knees are begging for mercy. + +![Pastures around the Cereda Pass](../img/26-1758-cereda.jpg) + +m4_caption(The pastures around the Cereda Pass.) + +We have a private room at [Rifugio Cereda](https://www.rifugiocereda.com/en/), +where we can have a shower rest well. The food is also amazing: I have +what is one of the best plates of +[*käsespätzle*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K%C3%A4sesp%C3%A4tzle) +of my life. By the way, over here the spätzle are prepared with spinach +and they green not white; I think they do the same in Tyrol, but definitely +not in Germany. + +Unfortunately, the weather forecast for the next day are not as good +as our dinner. + +m4_navtable(← Day 6,../day6,Alta Via 2,../,Day 8 →,../day8) diff --git a/src/av2/day8/da8.m4 b/src/av2/day8/da8.m4 deleted file mode 100644 index 09b3036..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day8/da8.m4 +++ /dev/null @@ -1,196 +0,0 @@ -m4_navtable(← Day 7,../day7,Alta Via 2,../,Day 9 →,../day9) - -# Day 8 - The Troi dei Caserin - -m4_caption({{{{{August 27, 2025}}}}}) - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day8.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/san-martino-di-castrozza-primiero-vanoi/-2025-alta-via-2-day-8/325543034/?share=%7E3zdmeu44%244ossqbdb)* - -## A damp morning - -Today the final part of Alta Via 2 begins. We are entering the *Vette -Feltrine*, a part that is perhaps less well-known by tourists, but no -less beautiful. The trails we'll have to walk are going to be narrow, -often steep. The weather forecasts for the day are not great, but we -should reach our [Rifugio Boz](https://www.rifugioboz.it/) (1718 meters -on sea level) before it starts raining. For now there is just a thick fog, -and the weather is unpleasantly hot and humid. - -![Rifugio Cereda, with the Pala Group in the background](../img/27-0740-cereda.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{Our last view on Rifugio Cereda and the Pala Group.}}}}}) - -We leave at 7:45. At first we walk on a secondary road, then on a dirt -road. Both my guide booklet and the signs try to make us walk downhill -towards the nearby villages of Matiuz and Padreterno, but there is a -clearly faster road that stays in the forest until we reach the start -of the actual trail. - -![Some signs, none pointing to where we are going](../img/27-0833-sign.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -The top sign is marked as "AV2", for Alta Via 2. There is a gap that -was probably filled by a sign pointing left, which is the way we took. -I suspect someone - perhaps the local forest authorities - removed -the sign because they did not want people to go that way, but I -can't imagine way. Or perhaps the sign simply fell off. -}}}}}) - -After about one hour of walk in the forest, the actual trail begins. -The humidity is very high, still unpleasant. Unfortunately this also -means that the pictures of the day are very... foggy. - -![The valley in the fog](../img/27-0945-fog.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{The valley behind us, in the fog.}}}}}) - -## L'Intaiàda - -The trail becomes steep, and then extremely steep. We walk along -a vertical wall of granite, where a narrow passage is carved out. -Indeed, this part of the trail is called *L'Intaiàda*, which -can be roughly translated as *The Carved-Out*. - -![L'Intaiàda](../img/27-1022-intaiada.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{Admittedly not the best picture of L'Intaiàda.}}}}}) - -The trail continues, narrow and exposed, but well equipped with some -sturdy metal ropes where needed. It requires some attention, but I don't -find it scary or particularly difficult; there is always some rock or -support piece I can hang on to rest of think about the next step. - -![Another section of L'Intaiàda](../img/27-1107-intaiada-2.jpg) - -m4_caption(Another section of L'Intaiàda.) - -![The steep trail](../img/27-1145-comedon.jpg) - -The trail continues very steep, and at 12:05 we reach the *Pass del -Comedon* (2130m). - -![View from the pass](../img/27-1209-comedon-2.jpg) - -m4_caption(View from the pass.) - -## A quick break at Bivacco Feltre - -From the pass we walk down an extremely steep trail, initially very -exposed, then less scary. - -My left knee has been doing well so far, but suddently I feel an acute -sting of pain that almost makes loose my balance. This is not good. It -is also very different from the constant, mild to moderate pain that I -have felt when walking downhill in the past few days. But I push through, -slowly and steadily. - -The fog becomes even thicker, at times we can't see much farther than -20-30 meters. - -![We are close to Bivacco Feltre](../img/27-1254-fog.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{We are close to Bivacco Feltre, but we can't see it.}}}}}) - -For a brief moment I catch a glimpse of *Bivacco Feltre* (1930m), a -[sheet metal shelter](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bivouac_shelter) -where hikers can wait for the bad weather to subside, or spend the night -in case of need. - -![Bivacco Feltre](../img/27-1303-bivacco-feltre.jpg) - -m4_caption(Bivacco Feltre.) - -We reach the bivouac at 13:05, and we decide to take a break. We eat -a protein bar and refill our water bottles. Unfortunately we can see -literally nothing besides the meadow around us and the fog. - -![The view from Bivacco Feltre](../img/27-1319-fog-view.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -Our view from Bivacco Feltre. The guide book describes the place -as "pleasant and majestic". I guess I'll have to trust them on this one. -}}}}}) - -We need some rest, but we don't want to wait for too long. The journey -is still long, and if we don't reach our destination before 17:00 we -will probably be caught by the forecasted thunderstorm. We leave the -bivouac at 13:30. - -## The Troi dei Caserin - -From the shelter we walk down, loosing about 200 or 300 meters of -altitude, which we quickly gain back. The fog is still very thick, -we can't see further than 10m. - -The trail so far is not particuarly hard, but there are some interesting -passages where we have to cross some waterfalls or small water streams. -Or maybe I found them interesting only because my bad knee prevents me -from pushing with my left leg and I have to make some complex alternative -manouvers. - -![A waterfall with a small pond](../img/27-1350-waterfall.jpg) - -At 14:50 we reach *Col dei Bech* (1960m), which means *Ibex' hill*. -And in fact, just after Cold dei Bech, in one of the rare moments when -the fog let us see at more than 15 meters, we did see a small family -of chamois. Ok, not quite ibex, but close enough. Judging from the -quantity of warm shit that we saw on the trail, they had probably walked -right ahead of us for a while. - -We continue on this trail that becomes increasingly narrow and exposed, -difficult in some sections. We are on the *Troi dei Caserin* ("the -Caserins' trail"). - -![Troi dei Caserin](../img/27-1545-caserin.jpg) - -There are some steel ropes in the most dangerous parts, but not for -long: soon we reach a grassy section, and the trail keeps gets -ever more narrow. On our left, the emptiness of a hundred-meters -free fall is hidden by the fog. My aching knee makes everything even -more challenging. - -We did not take many pictures of this part of the journey, mainly -because we were focusing on keeping our feet on the ground. Apparently, -my dad and I walked this same trail some 15 years ago, when it was -covered in half a meter of snow. And I say apparently because, even -though we both remember that trip very well, we have no recollection -of taking such a dangerous path in those conditions. But there is no -alternative road, so we must have done it... somehow. - -At 16:45 we reach *Pass de Mura* (1867m). The view opens up, but we -can't quite see our destination yet. - -![Malga Neva (not where we are going)](../img/27-1644-pass-de-mura.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{ -You see the tiny building down there? Luckily for us, it is not Rifugio -Boz, but Malga Neva. The Rifugio is closer than that. -}}}}}) - -We walk down from the pass and we reach [Rifugio -Boz](https://www.rifugioboz.it/) (1718m) at 17:05. Just as we walk -through the door, a strong storm begins. - -## At Rifugio Boz - -We are tired, hungry and our muscles are sore. As we check in, the -hut manager asks us if we are walking the Alta Via. We respond -that yes, we are, and tomorrow we will be going all the way to -[Rifugio Dal Piaz](https://www.rifugiodalpiaz.com), and we'll -finally walk down victorious to Croce d'Aune in the evening. - -"Are you sure about that?" - she says. - -"Why?" - we ask, not sure if she was joking or not. - -"Have you seen the weather forecast?" - -m4_navtable(← Day 7,../day7,Alta Via 2,../,Day 9 →,../day9) diff --git a/src/av2/day8/day8.m4 b/src/av2/day8/day8.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..09b3036 --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day8/day8.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,196 @@ +m4_navtable(← Day 7,../day7,Alta Via 2,../,Day 9 →,../day9) + +# Day 8 - The Troi dei Caserin + +m4_caption({{{{{August 27, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day8.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/san-martino-di-castrozza-primiero-vanoi/-2025-alta-via-2-day-8/325543034/?share=%7E3zdmeu44%244ossqbdb)* + +## A damp morning + +Today the final part of Alta Via 2 begins. We are entering the *Vette +Feltrine*, a part that is perhaps less well-known by tourists, but no +less beautiful. The trails we'll have to walk are going to be narrow, +often steep. The weather forecasts for the day are not great, but we +should reach our [Rifugio Boz](https://www.rifugioboz.it/) (1718 meters +on sea level) before it starts raining. For now there is just a thick fog, +and the weather is unpleasantly hot and humid. + +![Rifugio Cereda, with the Pala Group in the background](../img/27-0740-cereda.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{Our last view on Rifugio Cereda and the Pala Group.}}}}}) + +We leave at 7:45. At first we walk on a secondary road, then on a dirt +road. Both my guide booklet and the signs try to make us walk downhill +towards the nearby villages of Matiuz and Padreterno, but there is a +clearly faster road that stays in the forest until we reach the start +of the actual trail. + +![Some signs, none pointing to where we are going](../img/27-0833-sign.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +The top sign is marked as "AV2", for Alta Via 2. There is a gap that +was probably filled by a sign pointing left, which is the way we took. +I suspect someone - perhaps the local forest authorities - removed +the sign because they did not want people to go that way, but I +can't imagine way. Or perhaps the sign simply fell off. +}}}}}) + +After about one hour of walk in the forest, the actual trail begins. +The humidity is very high, still unpleasant. Unfortunately this also +means that the pictures of the day are very... foggy. + +![The valley in the fog](../img/27-0945-fog.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{The valley behind us, in the fog.}}}}}) + +## L'Intaiàda + +The trail becomes steep, and then extremely steep. We walk along +a vertical wall of granite, where a narrow passage is carved out. +Indeed, this part of the trail is called *L'Intaiàda*, which +can be roughly translated as *The Carved-Out*. + +![L'Intaiàda](../img/27-1022-intaiada.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{Admittedly not the best picture of L'Intaiàda.}}}}}) + +The trail continues, narrow and exposed, but well equipped with some +sturdy metal ropes where needed. It requires some attention, but I don't +find it scary or particularly difficult; there is always some rock or +support piece I can hang on to rest of think about the next step. + +![Another section of L'Intaiàda](../img/27-1107-intaiada-2.jpg) + +m4_caption(Another section of L'Intaiàda.) + +![The steep trail](../img/27-1145-comedon.jpg) + +The trail continues very steep, and at 12:05 we reach the *Pass del +Comedon* (2130m). + +![View from the pass](../img/27-1209-comedon-2.jpg) + +m4_caption(View from the pass.) + +## A quick break at Bivacco Feltre + +From the pass we walk down an extremely steep trail, initially very +exposed, then less scary. + +My left knee has been doing well so far, but suddently I feel an acute +sting of pain that almost makes loose my balance. This is not good. It +is also very different from the constant, mild to moderate pain that I +have felt when walking downhill in the past few days. But I push through, +slowly and steadily. + +The fog becomes even thicker, at times we can't see much farther than +20-30 meters. + +![We are close to Bivacco Feltre](../img/27-1254-fog.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{We are close to Bivacco Feltre, but we can't see it.}}}}}) + +For a brief moment I catch a glimpse of *Bivacco Feltre* (1930m), a +[sheet metal shelter](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bivouac_shelter) +where hikers can wait for the bad weather to subside, or spend the night +in case of need. + +![Bivacco Feltre](../img/27-1303-bivacco-feltre.jpg) + +m4_caption(Bivacco Feltre.) + +We reach the bivouac at 13:05, and we decide to take a break. We eat +a protein bar and refill our water bottles. Unfortunately we can see +literally nothing besides the meadow around us and the fog. + +![The view from Bivacco Feltre](../img/27-1319-fog-view.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +Our view from Bivacco Feltre. The guide book describes the place +as "pleasant and majestic". I guess I'll have to trust them on this one. +}}}}}) + +We need some rest, but we don't want to wait for too long. The journey +is still long, and if we don't reach our destination before 17:00 we +will probably be caught by the forecasted thunderstorm. We leave the +bivouac at 13:30. + +## The Troi dei Caserin + +From the shelter we walk down, loosing about 200 or 300 meters of +altitude, which we quickly gain back. The fog is still very thick, +we can't see further than 10m. + +The trail so far is not particuarly hard, but there are some interesting +passages where we have to cross some waterfalls or small water streams. +Or maybe I found them interesting only because my bad knee prevents me +from pushing with my left leg and I have to make some complex alternative +manouvers. + +![A waterfall with a small pond](../img/27-1350-waterfall.jpg) + +At 14:50 we reach *Col dei Bech* (1960m), which means *Ibex' hill*. +And in fact, just after Cold dei Bech, in one of the rare moments when +the fog let us see at more than 15 meters, we did see a small family +of chamois. Ok, not quite ibex, but close enough. Judging from the +quantity of warm shit that we saw on the trail, they had probably walked +right ahead of us for a while. + +We continue on this trail that becomes increasingly narrow and exposed, +difficult in some sections. We are on the *Troi dei Caserin* ("the +Caserins' trail"). + +![Troi dei Caserin](../img/27-1545-caserin.jpg) + +There are some steel ropes in the most dangerous parts, but not for +long: soon we reach a grassy section, and the trail keeps gets +ever more narrow. On our left, the emptiness of a hundred-meters +free fall is hidden by the fog. My aching knee makes everything even +more challenging. + +We did not take many pictures of this part of the journey, mainly +because we were focusing on keeping our feet on the ground. Apparently, +my dad and I walked this same trail some 15 years ago, when it was +covered in half a meter of snow. And I say apparently because, even +though we both remember that trip very well, we have no recollection +of taking such a dangerous path in those conditions. But there is no +alternative road, so we must have done it... somehow. + +At 16:45 we reach *Pass de Mura* (1867m). The view opens up, but we +can't quite see our destination yet. + +![Malga Neva (not where we are going)](../img/27-1644-pass-de-mura.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{ +You see the tiny building down there? Luckily for us, it is not Rifugio +Boz, but Malga Neva. The Rifugio is closer than that. +}}}}}) + +We walk down from the pass and we reach [Rifugio +Boz](https://www.rifugioboz.it/) (1718m) at 17:05. Just as we walk +through the door, a strong storm begins. + +## At Rifugio Boz + +We are tired, hungry and our muscles are sore. As we check in, the +hut manager asks us if we are walking the Alta Via. We respond +that yes, we are, and tomorrow we will be going all the way to +[Rifugio Dal Piaz](https://www.rifugiodalpiaz.com), and we'll +finally walk down victorious to Croce d'Aune in the evening. + +"Are you sure about that?" - she says. + +"Why?" - we ask, not sure if she was joking or not. + +"Have you seen the weather forecast?" + +m4_navtable(← Day 7,../day7,Alta Via 2,../,Day 9 →,../day9) diff --git a/src/av2/day9/da9.m4 b/src/av2/day9/da9.m4 deleted file mode 100644 index 385101b..0000000 --- a/src/av2/day9/da9.m4 +++ /dev/null @@ -1,105 +0,0 @@ -m4_navtable(← Day 8,../day8,Alta Via 2,../,After the hike →,../after) - -# Day 9 - Cutting it short - -m4_caption({{{{{August 28, 2025}}}}}) - -## Route of the day - -
-Click to see map - -
- -*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day9.gpx) or see the route on -[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-9/325543151/?share=%7E3zdmfdkz%244ossqbdb)* - -## An inevitable decision - -The last leg of the Alta Via 2 is long, challenging and dangerous. -Most of the trail is on top of a ridge, exposed on both sides, and strong -winds are frequent. - -And in the afternoon of August 28, the last day of our Alta Via 2, there -are going to be strong thunderstorms. The manager at Rifugio Boz told -us "I have walked this trail many times, but with a weather like this, -I don't even think about it". - -We are prepared and experienced, but we are powerless against the forces -of nature. We give up. On August 28, the last day of our Alta Via 2, -we are not going to Rifugio Dal Piaz, or to Croce d'Aune. We are going -down a safer trail, in the forest of the -[*Val Canzoi*](https://www.dolomitipark.it/en/visiting-the-park/itineraries/on-foot/nature-trails/val-di-canzoi/), -and we are going to conclude our adventure half a day earlier. - -## From Rifugio Boz to Malga Alvis - -![Rifugio Boz with the Sass de Mura on the background](../img/28-0730-boz-sass-de-mura.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{Rifugio Boz with the -[Sass de Mura](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sass_de_Mura) -in the background.}}}}}) - -We leave the hut at 7:35. The are two ways to walk down to Val Canzoi: -either we climb up to *Passo Alvis*, or to *Passo Finestra*. We -choose the former, as the trail that comes down from Passo Alvis -ends close to a bar where we can wait for someone to pick us up. - -![Walking to Passo Alvis](../img/28-0740-walk.jpg) - -m4_caption({{{{{We walk together with other 3 hikers to Passo Alvis. -We are not the only ones who decided to cut the Alta Via short.}}}}}) - -The weather is not bad for now. There are clouds, but it is not raining. -But the afternoon storm is going to be massive. - -At 7:55 we are up to Passo Alvis (1880 meters on sea level). From there, -we only need to go down another 1000 meters. We can't quite see the -bottom of the valley, but we do see the back of the main mountains that -are also visible from our home. - -![The view from Passo Alvis](../img/28-0755-pizoc.jpg) - -m4_({{{{{The view from Passo Alvis. In the back, partly hidden by the -clouds, you can see the [Pizzocco](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pizzocco), -the main mountain that rises above our home town. We are coming home!}}}}}) - -We walk down from the pass. The descent starts steep, but the trail is -not difficult. We see for the last time a family of chamoix, running -away from us. - -At 8:40 we reach Malga Alvis (1573m). - -![Malga Alvis](../img/28-0850-malga-alvis.jpg) - -m4_caption(Malga Alvis.) - -It starts raining. We take shelter inside the malga. The building -is not used for its original purpose anymore, but it is maintained -by the local natural park administration as a bivouac for hikers. -Some 15 years ago, in a cold late April, my dad and I spent the night -here before continuing our hike the following day. - -## Down to the valley, one last time - -Luckily the rain stops soon, and the five of us can continue our march. -The *Lago della Stua* is now visible. - -![Lago della Stua](../img/28-0928-lago-della-stua.jpg) - -m4_(Lago della Stua in Val Canzoi.) - -We keep going down. My knee starts hurting again, but we are almost there. -Overall I enjoyed this last part of the journey. The trail in this -mid-mountain forest is exactly the kind of road that I used to walk a -lot years ago, when I frequently hiked around these mountains. - -Our adventure ends at 10:40, on the dam of the lake. - -![The end](../img/28-1040-end.jpg) - -We reach the nearby bar, we sit down, we drink a -[spritz](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spritz_(cocktail)). - - -m4_navtable(← Day 8,../day8,Alta Via 2,../,After the hike →,../after) diff --git a/src/av2/day9/day9.m4 b/src/av2/day9/day9.m4 new file mode 100644 index 0000000..385101b --- /dev/null +++ b/src/av2/day9/day9.m4 @@ -0,0 +1,105 @@ +m4_navtable(← Day 8,../day8,Alta Via 2,../,After the hike →,../after) + +# Day 9 - Cutting it short + +m4_caption({{{{{August 28, 2025}}}}}) + +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/av2-day9.gpx) or see the route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/province-of-belluno/-2025-alta-via-2-day-9/325543151/?share=%7E3zdmfdkz%244ossqbdb)* + +## An inevitable decision + +The last leg of the Alta Via 2 is long, challenging and dangerous. +Most of the trail is on top of a ridge, exposed on both sides, and strong +winds are frequent. + +And in the afternoon of August 28, the last day of our Alta Via 2, there +are going to be strong thunderstorms. The manager at Rifugio Boz told +us "I have walked this trail many times, but with a weather like this, +I don't even think about it". + +We are prepared and experienced, but we are powerless against the forces +of nature. We give up. On August 28, the last day of our Alta Via 2, +we are not going to Rifugio Dal Piaz, or to Croce d'Aune. We are going +down a safer trail, in the forest of the +[*Val Canzoi*](https://www.dolomitipark.it/en/visiting-the-park/itineraries/on-foot/nature-trails/val-di-canzoi/), +and we are going to conclude our adventure half a day earlier. + +## From Rifugio Boz to Malga Alvis + +![Rifugio Boz with the Sass de Mura on the background](../img/28-0730-boz-sass-de-mura.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{Rifugio Boz with the +[Sass de Mura](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sass_de_Mura) +in the background.}}}}}) + +We leave the hut at 7:35. The are two ways to walk down to Val Canzoi: +either we climb up to *Passo Alvis*, or to *Passo Finestra*. We +choose the former, as the trail that comes down from Passo Alvis +ends close to a bar where we can wait for someone to pick us up. + +![Walking to Passo Alvis](../img/28-0740-walk.jpg) + +m4_caption({{{{{We walk together with other 3 hikers to Passo Alvis. +We are not the only ones who decided to cut the Alta Via short.}}}}}) + +The weather is not bad for now. There are clouds, but it is not raining. +But the afternoon storm is going to be massive. + +At 7:55 we are up to Passo Alvis (1880 meters on sea level). From there, +we only need to go down another 1000 meters. We can't quite see the +bottom of the valley, but we do see the back of the main mountains that +are also visible from our home. + +![The view from Passo Alvis](../img/28-0755-pizoc.jpg) + +m4_({{{{{The view from Passo Alvis. In the back, partly hidden by the +clouds, you can see the [Pizzocco](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pizzocco), +the main mountain that rises above our home town. We are coming home!}}}}}) + +We walk down from the pass. The descent starts steep, but the trail is +not difficult. We see for the last time a family of chamoix, running +away from us. + +At 8:40 we reach Malga Alvis (1573m). + +![Malga Alvis](../img/28-0850-malga-alvis.jpg) + +m4_caption(Malga Alvis.) + +It starts raining. We take shelter inside the malga. The building +is not used for its original purpose anymore, but it is maintained +by the local natural park administration as a bivouac for hikers. +Some 15 years ago, in a cold late April, my dad and I spent the night +here before continuing our hike the following day. + +## Down to the valley, one last time + +Luckily the rain stops soon, and the five of us can continue our march. +The *Lago della Stua* is now visible. + +![Lago della Stua](../img/28-0928-lago-della-stua.jpg) + +m4_(Lago della Stua in Val Canzoi.) + +We keep going down. My knee starts hurting again, but we are almost there. +Overall I enjoyed this last part of the journey. The trail in this +mid-mountain forest is exactly the kind of road that I used to walk a +lot years ago, when I frequently hiked around these mountains. + +Our adventure ends at 10:40, on the dam of the lake. + +![The end](../img/28-1040-end.jpg) + +We reach the nearby bar, we sit down, we drink a +[spritz](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spritz_(cocktail)). + + +m4_navtable(← Day 8,../day8,Alta Via 2,../,After the hike →,../after) diff --git a/src/av2/img/20-1150-forest.jpg b/src/av2/img/20-1150-forest.jpg index a96e8e1..157843e 100644 Binary files a/src/av2/img/20-1150-forest.jpg and b/src/av2/img/20-1150-forest.jpg differ diff --git a/src/av2/img/20-1324-cows.jpg b/src/av2/img/20-1324-cows.jpg index 2f89291..07dec85 100644 Binary files a/src/av2/img/20-1324-cows.jpg and b/src/av2/img/20-1324-cows.jpg differ diff --git a/src/av2/img/20-1603-schluterhutte.jpg b/src/av2/img/20-1603-schluterhutte.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d40affc Binary files /dev/null and b/src/av2/img/20-1603-schluterhutte.jpg differ diff --git a/src/av2/img/20-1703-descent.jpg b/src/av2/img/20-1703-descent.jpg index 0f9c81e..9c6fd15 100644 Binary files a/src/av2/img/20-1703-descent.jpg and b/src/av2/img/20-1703-descent.jpg differ diff --git a/src/av2/img/20-1816-mill.jpg b/src/av2/img/20-1816-mill.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..84b39d3 Binary files /dev/null and b/src/av2/img/20-1816-mill.jpg differ -- cgit v1.3