From 17c0f82f52b5de171108d64decb94afe2915fad8 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Sebastiano Tronto Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2026 18:30:15 +0200 Subject: Civetta tour pages --- src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/civetta-moiazza.md | 21 + src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/day1/day1.md | 136 + src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/day2/day2.md | 160 ++ src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/day3/day3.md | 159 + .../civetta-moiazza/gpx/civetta-moiazza-day1.gpx | 1641 +++++++++++ .../civetta-moiazza/gpx/civetta-moiazza-day2.gpx | 2575 +++++++++++++++++ .../civetta-moiazza/gpx/civetta-moiazza-day3.gpx | 3032 ++++++++++++++++++++ src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/img/7-0000-map.jpg | Bin 0 -> 867573 bytes src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/img/7-1030-pelmo.jpg | Bin 0 -> 734237 bytes src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/img/7-1052-south.jpg | Bin 0 -> 570479 bytes src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/img/7-1106-coldai.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1182026 bytes .../civetta-moiazza/img/7-1213-lake-coldai.jpg | Bin 0 -> 347913 bytes src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/img/7-1227-north.jpg | Bin 0 -> 2430034 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100644 src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/img/map.jpg create mode 100644 src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/planning/planning.md (limited to 'src/hikes/civetta-moiazza') diff --git a/src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/civetta-moiazza.md b/src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/civetta-moiazza.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b181d3e --- /dev/null +++ b/src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/civetta-moiazza.md @@ -0,0 +1,21 @@ +# The Civetta-Moiazza Ring + +![](img/cover.jpg) + +After hiking [Alta Via 2](../av2), I wanted to try another multi-day +hike the following year. This time I decided to come up with a route +by myself, and to make it more accessible so that I could invite +more friends. + +The result is a 3 day ring tour of the +[Civetta](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Civetta)-Moiazza +mountain group, in the heart of the Dolomites. + +This hike does not require advanced mountaineering skills, but +nonetheless it gives one access to some of the most beautiful landscapes +of the world. Check out these pages if you don't belive me! + +* [Planning](planning) +* [Day 1 - To the north-west wall](day1) +* [Day 2 - Dodging the storm](day2) +* [Day 3 - Wading through the woods](day3) diff --git a/src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/day1/day1.md b/src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/day1/day1.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..98191f1 --- /dev/null +++ b/src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/day1/day1.md @@ -0,0 +1,136 @@ + + + + +
← Planning Civetta-Moiazza Tour Day 2 →
+ +# Day 1 - To the north-west wall + +

August 7, 2026

+ +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/civetta-moiazza-day1.gpx) or see the +route on +[outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/belluno/tour-civetta-moiazza-day-1/332670819/?share=%7E33cisp7g%244ossme4d) +or on +[Garmin Connect](https://connect.garmin.com/app/activity/23886687005).* + +## An easy walk to Rifugio Coldai + +Our journey starts at around 9:00 fom Palafavèra (1514m on sea level). +We walk up an easy dirt road (trail 564), with a beautiful view on +[Monte Pelmo](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Pelmo) behind us. + +![Our view on Monte Pelmo](../img/7-1030-pelmo.jpg) + +

Monte Pelmo.

+ +We are worried about the weather, as strong thunderstorms are +possible in the afternoon. But are walking at a good pace, as we +reach Casera Pioda (1819m) after around one hour. +In the meantime, the view has opened up on the south, showing us +mountains that I couldn't name. + +![The view on the south](../img/7-1052-south.jpg) + +

+The view on the south, with the small village of Pécol in the foreground. +

+ +We continue on trail 564 and then take trail 556. +After another hour, at around 11:00 we reach Rifugio Coldai (2180m), +where we stop to eat our usual slice of +*[Apfelstrudel](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_strudel)* +- but some of us prefer +*[Sachertorte](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sachertorte).* + +![Rifugio Coldai](../img/7-1106-coldai.jpg) + +

Rifugio Coldai.

+ +## On to Rifugio Tissi + +We leave the hut at 11:45, and soon we reach Lake Coldai (2140m). +We are now turning around the northern side of Monte Civetta. Pelmo, +on the north-east, hides behind the rocks we have just passed, while +new mountains become visible on the north. + +![Lake Coldai](../img/7-1213-lake-coldai.jpg) + +

+Lake Coldai, and Monte Pelmo peeking out from behing the rocks. +

+ +![Mountains on the north](../img/7-1227-north.jpg) + +

+The mountains visible on the north. Can you spot the + +Tre Cime di Lavaredo? +Try with the full-size picture! +

+ +Moving towards Rifugio Tissi, we walk down along trail 560 to +around 2000m of altitude, where the downward trail 565 starts. +Here, at 13:15, we take a small break with a beatiful view on the +peaks of northern [Agordino](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agordo). + +After a steep, but short, ascent along trail 563 we +reach rifugio Tissi (2250m) at 14:25. + +![Rifugio Tissi](../img/7-1423-tissi.jpg) + +

Rifugio Tissi.

+ +## A relaxing afternoon + +Arriving so early at our destination for the day means we have +a lot of time to relax, and to enjoy the beautiful scenery from +the summit of Col de Reàn (2281m), which is just behind the Rifugio. + +![View from Col de Reàn](../img/7-1549-view.jpg) + +These pictures do not show it well, but the northern side of Col +de Reàn drops vertically down to the Alleghe Lake (1000m). +The drop is almost 1300 meters! + +![The summit of Col de Reàn](../img/7-1550-summit.jpg) + +

+The summit of Col de Reàn. You can see the drop on the right +edge of the mountain. +

+ +Due to the ongoing drought, it is not possible to shower - and +in fact there is little water from the tap, so even washing +one's hands is quite challenging. + +More on the bright side, the expected thunderstorm does not +happen, so we can enjoy more time outside after dinner. + +![The north-west face of Civetta](../img/7-9999-civetta.jpg) + +

The north-west face of Civetta.

+ +Around sunset, we manage to catch a brief glimpse of an intense +*enrosadira* - or [alpenglow](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpenglow). + +![The north-west face of Civetta](../img/7-9999-enrosadira.jpg) + +

+The base of Monte Pelmo was briefly an intense pink hue, almost +purple. This is shot does not show the phenomenon at its peak, +but it is the best we have. +

+ + + + + +
← Planning Civetta-Moiazza Tour Day 2 →
diff --git a/src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/day2/day2.md b/src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/day2/day2.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..56f08f0 --- /dev/null +++ b/src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/day2/day2.md @@ -0,0 +1,160 @@ + + + + +
← Day 1 Civetta-Moiazza Tour Day 3 →
+ +# Day 2 - Dodging the storm + +

August 8, 2026

+ +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/civetta-moiazza-day2.gpx) or see the +route on [outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/belluno/tour-civetta-moiazza-day-2/332670918/?share=%7E33ci7ygn%244ossme4d) +or on +[Garmin Connect](https://connect.garmin.com/app/activity/23903150233).* + +## Down to Rifugio Vazzolèr + +![The dawn from Rifugio Tissi](../img/8-0626-dawn.jpg) + +

+The dawn from Rifugio Tissi, looking south-west towards Agordo. +

+ +We leave Rifugio Tissi at 7:45, headed to Rifugio Vazzolèr. There +are two trails to get there, we pick 560 over 563. The route is +clearly indicated by the Alta Via 1 marks. + +After about one hour we reach a nice green meadow at 1900 meters +on sea level. + +![The meadow and the Alta Via 1 mark](../img/8-0848-av1.jpg) + +

+The meadow, with the southern end of the Civetta on the +center-left. On a rock in the foreground you can see a blue +triangle with a "1" in it - a mark for Alta Via 1. +

+ +It looks like the ideal spot for camping, and indeed later in the +day we would meet a group of scouts who planned to pitch their +tents here. + +After a short break we start walking again, and at around 10:00 we reach +Rifugio Vazzolèr. This place is almost like a small village, with a few +separate buildings and even a small church and a little botanical garden. + +![The peaks east of Rifugio Vazzolèr](../img/8-0955-civetta-moiazza.jpg) + +

+Around the latitude of Rifugio Vazzolèr, we leave the Civetta group +to enter the Moiazza +group. I believe this picture shows the divide between the two, but +it is not very clear to me where one ends and the other begins. +Effectively, they form one mountain group. +

+ +We sit down, drink some water with +[elderberry](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sambucus) syrup, +and we are ready to start walking again at 10:35. + +![Me taking notes at Rifugio Vazzolèr](../img/8-1026-notes.jpg) + +## Running from the storm + +From Rifugio Vazzolèr we walk down a dirt road (trail 555) until around +11:15, when we reach the junction with trail 554, at 1430m. After a short +break we take this other trail, which gradually becomes more technical, +but never hard or steep - in fact, we neither gain nor loose altitude. + +![Landscape](../img/8-1100-random-landscape.jpg) + +At 11:50 we stop for about 20 minutes to eat something. +Now the trail begins to go up, but it is still not too steep. + +After another short break next to *Col Palanzìn* (1700m), the trail +becomes more steep. We reach the pass of *Col de l'Ors* (1800m) at 13:25. +This is perhaps the most difficult section of the hike, and we +all make it through without issues. + +We now see another pass very far away, and we worry that it is +*Forcella del Camp*, the next pass we have to reach. + +![A far away pass](../img/8-1333-far-pass.jpg) + +

+In the center-left of this picture, a far away pass. +

+ +Luckily, that was instead *Forcella di Sejère*, but we only realize +this at 14:30, when we reach a crossroad (1880m) and we finally see +*Forcella del Camp* on our left. The last 50 meters to reach it are +quite steep, but we are relieved to see it much closer than we +previously thought. + +After a 15 minutes snack break, we walk up, we take some pictures, +and then we walk down towards Rifugio Carestiato. + +![The view for the Forcella](../img/8-1506-from-forcella.jpg) + +

+The view from Forcella del Camp towards +Zoldo, the +valley where we started our journey (and where we are going to end it). +

+ +![The clouds](../img/8-1510-clouds.jpg) + +

These clouds don't look promising...

+ +At this point we are facing some menacing clouds, and we can hear thunders. +We feel the first drops of rain, and we try to rush our way to the hut. +For this reason, we don't have many pictures of this section. + +Some of us are faster, some are slower. The fastest of our group manage to +reach Rifugio Carestiato (1850m) at around 16:00, just as the storm begins. +The rest of us get there soaked, some more than others. + +## Slippery when wet + +The storm is very strong, but also quick. We barely have time to order +a [radler](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shandy#Radler) and drink it. +We don't want to linger here for too long, as we still have about one +hour before we reach our final destination for the day. We leave +Rifugio Carestiato at 16:55. + +![The view after the storm](../img/8-1704-view.jpg) + +

+The view after leaving Rifugio Carestiato, just a few minutes +after the storm has ended. +

+ +As we are all a bit tired from the long day, we walk down slowly. +Some parts of the road had become rivers during the storm, and +are still draining. The steep last part before the Duràn pass +is also quite slippery, but we manage not to fall. + +We finally arrive at the pass at 17:50. The place is not as +beautiful as the location of Rifugio Tissi, but at least here we +can eat, have a shower, and sleep. + +![Cima di San Sebastiano](../img/8-1750-san-sebastiano.jpg) + +

+Cima di San Sebastiano, part of the Tamèr group, seen from +the Duràn pass. +

+ + + + + +
← Day 1 Civetta-Moiazza Tour Day 3 →
diff --git a/src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/day3/day3.md b/src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/day3/day3.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a6fde3f --- /dev/null +++ b/src/hikes/civetta-moiazza/day3/day3.md @@ -0,0 +1,159 @@ + + + + +
← Day 2 Civetta-Moiazza Tour
+ +# Day 3 - Wading through the woods + +

August 9, 2026

+ +## Route of the day + +
+Click to see map + +
+ +*Download the [gpx file](../gpx/civetta-moiazza-day3.gpx) or see the +route on [outdooractive.com](https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-trail/belluno/tour-civetta-moiazza-day-3/332670975/?share=%7E33ci9nwt%244ossme4e) +or on [Garmin Connect](https://connect.garmin.com/app/activity/23911892135).* + +## Planning the route + +Today is the final day of the tour, the day we close the loop by +walking up the Zoldo Valley, back to Palafavèra. This area is very +popular in winter, for skiing, but less popular among hikers, at +least compared to the trails we walked the previous two days. + +Unlike the first two days, when we simply followed the route for +Alta Via 1, this time we had to choose the path on our own. We did +this in advance, of course. But there were multiple ways to complete +our tour, and none stood out as the best one, so we changed our +plan multiple times before agreeing on a final one. + +In the end, we chose to avoid all difficult trails (marked +as EEA, which stands for *experienced hikers with equipment*) and +took a lower path, mostly in the forest. The more adventurous hiker +may want to try the higher *Sentiero Angelini*, but keep in mind +that considerable hiking experience may be required; you should +also avoid it if you are afraid of heights. + +The gpx file that you can download from the link above, as well +as the Garmin Connect link, report the route we took. The other +website shows an earlier version of the plan, which should have +a little difficult section somewhere - although these details are +clearly marked only on [Tabacco +maps](https://https://www.tabaccoeditrice.it), the gold standard +for hikers. + +With this preamble out of the way, we can get back to our journey! + +## The forest trail + +![The Moiazza at dawn, from Rifugio Passo Duràn](../img/9-0634-moiazza.jpg) + +

+The Moiazza at dawn, from Rifugio Passo Duràn. +

+ +We leave Rifugio Passo Duràn at 8:00, not before we pet the donkeys. + +![Donkeys](../img/9-0756-donkeys-2.jpg) + +We walk a hundred meters or so on the main road and then turn left +at Rifugio San Sebastiano, the other hut in the area. We take trail +578, going from meadow to forest. + +Here we have to focus to take the correct trail, as there are many +tracks that lead more or less in the same direction. At 8:45 we are +at a crossroads, and we take the right on what I believe is another +branch of trail 578 (not the one marked as *Sentiero Angelini*). +The trail goes down steeply. Shortly afterwards we turn left, on an +unnumbered trail, marked with a dashed black line on our map. + +![A couloir](../img/9-0912-couloir.jpg) + +

+Around 9:15 we are briefly out of the forest, and we walk +past this picturesque +couloir. +

+ +At 9:25 we reach an abandoned football field at 1290 meters on sea +level, which now is more likely used as an +[apiary](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apiary). This is the lowest +altitude we reach in the whole tour. + +We now take a narrow trail that goes up in the woods. Soon it becomes +extremely steep. + +This trail is called *Triol dei brusolai*, acoording to our maps, +which in the local dialect should mean something like "trail of +the roasted ones". No idea why. + +![Triol dei Brusolai](../img/9-0953-brusolai.jpg) + +

Triol dei Brusolai.

+ +At 10:15, after an exhausting uphill walk, we are back to trail 578, +which we follow again next. Along this path there are plenty of wild +strawberries and raspberries, and we eat a bunch of them. + +At 11:00 we reach *Casera de la Grava* (1627m). We were hoping we could +buy some food here, but the place is privately owned, they don't +sell anything. So we walk past it, looking for a spot where we can +sit down and eat our protein bars; we find it at 11:30. + +![Casera de la Grava, and some cows](../img/9-1059-casera.jpg) + +

+Casera de la Grava, and some cows in the foreground. +

+ +We get up and leave at 11:55, headed to *Forcella de la Grava* +(1784m), which we reach in about 20 minutes. From here we take +trail 557 and then trail 587, slowly going up to *Col de la +Grava* (1900m). This is the highest point we will reach today, +and there is a nice view on the Zoldo Dolomites. + +![View towards north-east](../img/9-1309-view.jpg) + +Soon afterwards the path start going downhill. We follow it until +it becomes a dirt road (marked as trail 586), and we reach Pécol +(1400m) at 14:25. + +## The last stretch + +The journey is almost over now. Before walking back up to our cars, +we decide to enjoy a longer break. We order a couple of radlers at +a local bar. + +![Pecol and Civetta](../img/9-1509-pecol.jpg) + +

+Pécol, with the Civetta in the background. +

+ +At 15:00 we leave Pécol. The trail to Palafavèra is right next +to the main road, not the most scenic of trails. But we need to +get back to our cars, and all alternatives are at least a couple +of hours longer. + +We arrive at Palafavèra, tired but satisfied, at 15:40. + +![Rifugio Palafavèra with the Civetta in the background](../img/9-1545-palafavera.jpg) + +

+Rifugio Palafavèra with the Civetta in the background. +

+ +And this concludes our journey! Definitely more accessible and +less painful than [last year's 9-day adventure](../../av2), +but a beautiful trip nonetheless. + + + + + +
← Day 2 Civetta-Moiazza Tour
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Civetta-Moiazza Tour Day 1 →
+ +# The Civetta-Moiazza Ring + +## The route + +To get an experience similar to [Alta Via 2](../../av2), but with less +the pain, I thought of a 3-day course, avoiding hard and technical +trails so that I could invite less-trained friends. This is the result: + +||Start|Finish|Up|Down|Distance| +|:-|:-:|:-:|:-:|:-:|:-:|:-:| +|[Day 1](../day1)|[Palafavèra](https://www.palafavera.com)|Rifugio Tissi|1040 m|-300 m|10.7 km| +|[Day 2](../day2)|[Rifugio Tissi](http://www.rifugiotissi.com/)|Duràn Pass|840 m|-1500 m|20.8 km| +|[Day 3](../day3)|[Duràn Pass](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duran_Pass)|Palafavera|860 m|-940 m|16.0 km| + +This time for planning the route I used a +[website](https://www.outdooractive.com) that I discovered after +finishing Alta Via 2. It feels a bit +[enshittified](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enshittification), as it +constantly pushes you to use its "social" features and to buy the +premium subscription, but the basic functionality is free and it +works relatively well. +I have also tracked all three days using a GPS smartwatch, and the +distances and altitudes in the table above are the real ones measured +by my watch. The original plan I made turned out to be an underestimate, +especially for distance, by at least a couple of kilometers and a +hundred meters of elevation each day. I imagine this is because the +route planner sampled points on the +drawn route, thus skipping some bumps and turns. + +As you can see, Day 1 is quite short, while Day 2 is very long. This is +because we initially planned to spend the first night at [Rifugio +Vazzolèr](https://www.rifugiovazzoler.com), about two hours of walk +after Rifugio Tissi. But it was fully booked, so we had to go with a +backup plan. In the end we were lucky to do so, because Rifugio Tissi +is in a much nicer location! + +Note: the first two days of the hike are part of [Alta Via +1](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alta_Via_1), a popular route that I +would like to try in the future. The last day just closes the loop. + +![map](../img/map.jpg) + +## For beginners and experts + +This hike is suitable for occasional hikers, but not for +complete beginners. There is no technical trail and no special +equipment is required, but some stamina is needed. If you have +hiked in the mountains before and you are in a decent physical +shape, you can try this for sure! + +A well-trained hiker can try to complete this ring in two days. In this +case, I would suggest starting from Passo Duràn, hiking directly to +Rifugio Coldai and then Rifugio Tissi on the first day (skipping +Palafavèra), and hiking back following our day 2 route on the second day. + +## Weather forecast + +Since I planned this trip a few months in advance, it was impossible +to predict what the weather would be like during our hike. But in the +days immediately before it we had a decent idea of what we should expect. + +I spent the week before the hike at my parents' place, in +[Valbelluna](https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valbelluna), +about one hour drive away from our starting +point. I am not exaggerating when I say that it was by far the hottest +week I have ever seen in that place. We reached 37°C every day, and +at night the temperature never went below 20°C. For context, the +average daily high in August is around 28°C. It was so unusually +hot, even at high altitudes, that the +[permafrost](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Permafrost) inside +mountains started melting, causing [multiple +rockslides](https://www.the-ski-guru.com/2026/08/15/monte-pelmo-rockfalls-geologist-warning/) +in the week before our hike. + +Another thing to take into account when hiking in the Alps are the +thunderstorms, very common in the Summer afternoons. The forecasts +predicted a high risk of thunderstorms in the first two days, while +the third day should have been clean. This is not unusual, and +we were prepared. + +## Equipment + +One factor that makes the logistics of a 3-day hike much easier than +[9-day one](../../av2) is that you can bring enough clothes to wear +clean ones every day. Also, you don't need nearly as much food. + +Overall, the list of what we packed is quite similar to [the one of +last year's hike](../../av2/preparation/). You can use that as reference +if you are planning a similar hike. + +As for maps, I always like to bring some physical copies, because +they can't run out of battery, loose connectivity or get bricked +by a software update. So I bought a copy of [Tabacco map number +15](https://www.tabaccoeditrice.it/en/cartografie_en/125000-coast/015_en/), +which covers the whole route. + +![Contents of my backpack](../img/equipment.jpg) + +And with that, we are ready to go! + + + + + +
Civetta-Moiazza Tour Day 1 →
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